Looking for advice for a new (used) 22 frets guitar.

StSpider

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I already own a couple of PRS, a CE 24 from the early 90s and a recent Custom 24.

I'd like a 22 fretter tuned down half step for my side project and I'm torn between a Custom 22 stoptail and a Mccarty.

I like both Wide thin and Pattern/wide fat necks., I'd like the guitar to be light, I'd strongly prefer to have two side dots at the 12th fret and I would prefer dots on the fretboard in this case, but it's not a deal breaker.

Also highly prefered is the McCarty switching (three way, push pull for splits).

AFAIK I need to buy from 2006 onwards if I want two side dots. Is this true for both Customs and McCartys?

I'm also concerned about pickups. I love the 85/15 in my Custom and ideally I'd like a guitar with those in, but it's a recent thing.

Mccartys have their own pickup which I've never tried and most used Custom 22 come with Dragon 2s which I've heard mixed opinions about. I'd rather not buy to swap pickups unless it's a beater guitar that I can get for very little (I'd be ok with that but it doesn't happen often with PRS). I need something that handles 80s / 90s rock well, not necessarily metal, hopefully good splits.

What model and era should I look into?
 
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There is NO right answer here - it really does depend on what you can find and what you prefer.

A McCarty has always been the more 'classic' sounding, fixed bridge 22 fret model - with a thicker piece of Mahogany too. Its much more likely you'll find one of these you'll like from a specs perspective because the switching and fixed bridge has been 'standard' for years.

A Custom 22 'Hardtail' is often not that easy to find. Obviously if you go back before 2015, then you won't get 85/15's (stock) because they weren't around then - the '15' refers to the year they launched those Pups. At one point, the Cu22's had 85/15's as standard, but I am not sure if they made any with a Hardtail in this configuration.

I can't remember when the side dots changed myself, but as it seems that you are not considering buying 'new' - you can't buy a 'new' Cu22 anyway - you are 'left' with whatever people are willing to sell and you may struggle 'more' to find the 'perfect' Custom 22 Hardtail, especially as the McCarty has your 'prefered' switching and fixed bridge as Standard. You may even have more luck finding one with 'moons' in the exact colour you prefer because they are more 'common' than Cu22 Hardtails.

Buying used, you are at the 'mercy' of the market-place and you may find a fantastic deal on one that may not have two-dots at the 12th, but the price, colour and feature set is just too good a deal to worry about whether its a McCarty or Cu22 Hardtail. If you set your heart out on looking for a Cu22 Hardtail made after 2016 with 85/15's and similar switching to a McCarty, especially if you have a 'preference' on wood grain and/or colour, you could be looking for a LONG time, as well as miss out on Bargain McCarty guitars that could be perfect for you.

In my opinion, I think the McCarty is a great alternative to a LP type guitar and a Cu22 is more a 'modern' take on that. Both would handle 80/90's rock well enough, unless you want to do a lot of the 80's 'whammy' bar rock of course but then I think pretty much any guitar could do '80's/90's' rock because bands used whatever instruments they could get their hands on so you have a wide range of 'instruments' from classic/vintage Fender/Gibson models (Strats, teles, Les Pauls, SG's) etc) through to the latest 'floyd rose' loaded 24 fret Super-Strats from Ibanez, Charvel, Kramer etc. An Ibanez JEM or Jackson Soloist is as iconic to the 80's/90's Rock sound as was Slash playing a replica 59 burst, Angus rocking his SG's, SRV/Dave Murray rocking Strats, Kurt Cobain rocking Fender Jags - point is, you can probably use 'ANY' guitar to do most 80's/90's rock with maybe a Floyd to do the 80's 'rock' tricks if needed...

All I will say is enjoy the journey and good luck with the hunt. PRS has a lot more 22 fret models than 24fret and some have fixed bridges too that may also fit what you are looking for - Paul's guitar has superb Splits - and you can individually split with a mini-toggle - meaning you could keep the bridge in HB, neck in SC and just use the 3 way to go between quickly. I prefer 'mini-toggles' to push/pull as you have a quick 'visual' cue as to whether its split/full, easier to 'switch' than pull up with sweaty fingers, and no chance of 'messing' the tone setting up either. Obviously the 594 will give you a ToM style fixed bridge too and the 'same' individual coil-splitting options as well as individual tone/volume controls to 'blend' to taste. Maybe the Paul's would fit your needs 'better' but may cost more as its newer...
 
If you can live with putting a dot of nail polish on the neck at the 12th fret, that’ll open up many more years of guitars.

I’d consider a CE22, in addition to the others. Some were made with a toggle switch, like the McCarty model. Weights are all over, though. My CE22 is a hair over 9lbs.
 
I am looking for a way to make the 12th fret stand out without modding the guitar in a way that can't be reversed. It's a significant issue on my old CE as well,

Unfortunately there are gigs where I can't hear myself clearly 100% of the time and thus fret markers do end up being the difference maker between a nice solo and random noise.
 
Here's my 2 cents. I've owned a McCarty, and 2 Custom 22 stop tails, one with wide/thin and 1 with wide/fat. They're all very similar guitars, and the ones I have/had are all light (<8 lbs). The McCarty has a thicker body, which you'll noticed compared to your CE24 and CU24. McCartys usually don't have locking tuners, but you can replace the stock tuners with locking tuners. I don't know which years have 2 side dots, but I always use Wite-Out to add dots if I need them. You can remove the Wite-Out with a fingernail.

Otherwise, I think it really comes down to pickups and switching, both of which are easily customizable. But if you don't want to swap pickups, I'd look for an older CU22 with Dragon 1 pickups. They're great for rock and the split positions on the 5-way rotary are also excellent. Not sure how the splits sound with McCarty switching though. And because used Dragon 1's sell at a premium, worst case if you don't like the way they sound you can sell them for more than it would cost you to buy 85/15s or whatever other pickups you like. I don't know what year the Dragon 1's were replaced by Dragon 2's (which I haven't tried) but I'm sure others here can chime in.

FWIW, I ended up selling my McCarty because it wasn't as comfortable as the Custom 22s, and I end up playing the Custom 22 w/Dragon 1's pretty regularly. Great rock guitar for sure.
 
One other thing to add - looks like Dragon 1s were used until about 1998. So, any CU22 with Dragon 1s will likely have the old Phase I winged tuners. I'm not a fan of them, which seems to be the majority opinion. Again, they can be replaced, but it sounds like you want to avoid modifications if possible.
 
I have two Custom 22's and they're wonderful guitars but I did have to swap out the pickups to Duncans. The Dragons and Dragon II's just weren't right for me. I'm a blues player, not a heavy metal buzz saw.

Maybe look for an SE for around $500 or 600 and put the pickups you like best in it.

The SE Singlecuts are wonderful guitars and perfect for pickup swaps.
 
One other thing to add - looks like Dragon 1s were used until about 1998. So, any CU22 with Dragon 1s will likely have the old Phase I winged tuners. I'm not a fan of them, which seems to be the majority opinion. Again, they can be replaced, but it sounds like you want to avoid modifications if possible.

Yeah I can live with them but it's the one thing I would change about my 1991 CE (dots aside).

I'm not a huge fan of single cuts, I think double cuts look better and are more comfortable personally.

I'm also not adamantly against swapping pickups, since it's completely reversible.
 
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I'd like to stay clear of the 594, I don't like the Les Paul style control layout and I much prefer wraparound bridges in most cases.
 
I am looking for a way to make the 12th fret stand out without modding the guitar in a way that can't be reversed. It's a significant issue on my old CE as well,

Unfortunately there are gigs where I can't hear myself clearly 100% of the time and thus fret markers do end up being the difference maker between a nice solo and random noise.

If you are that concerned, you can get 'Glow in the dark' paint and put your own dots down the side to have 'glow in the dark' side dots for 'any' occasion - like a lot of guitars with luminlays. It can easily be reversed too and I doubt it would affect the 'value' of your guitar or screw it up to be 'unplayable' either....
 
I'd like to stay clear of the 594, I don't like the Les Paul style control layout and I much prefer wraparound bridges in most cases.
So why not consider Paul's Guitar - comes with a Wraparound bridge, Pattern Neck, 25" scale, double dots at the 12th (I believe) and is basically a Cu22-08 hardtail....
 
I am looking for a way to make the 12th fret stand out without modding the guitar in a way that can't be reversed. It's a significant issue on my old CE as well,

Unfortunately there are gigs where I can't hear myself clearly 100% of the time and thus fret markers do end up being the difference maker between a nice solo and random noise.
If your CE is a 24 fret guitar the neck pickup is moved towards the bridge to make room for the 23rd and 24th frets, and that changes the tone significantly.

It's impossible to get the tone of the neck pickup in a 22 fret guitar from a neck pickup in a 24 fret guitar.
 
So why not consider Paul's Guitar - comes with a Wraparound bridge, Pattern Neck, 25" scale, double dots at the 12th (I believe) and is basically a Cu22-08 hardtail....

I am very intrigued by these, but since I'd be buying this guitar more as a "live" instrument I'd rather go used and find a nice deal on an instrument with a few scars already than get a shiny new one that I might be afraid to gig.

There's tons of Mccartys and CU22 that have been extensively gigged already but the Paul's guitar is more of a "specialty" instrument that is appealing to PRS aficionados and those guitars, IMO, are generally very well cared for and kept in pristine condition.
 
If your CE is a 24 fret guitar the neck pickup is moved towards the bridge to make room for the 23rd and 24th frets, and that changes the tone significantly.

It's impossible to get the tone of the neck pickup in a 22 fret guitar from a neck pickup in a 24 fret guitar.

I'm well aware of that, I'm not talking about tone, I just need the proper visual clues when I'm playing live.
 
I am very intrigued by these, but since I'd be buying this guitar more as a "live" instrument I'd rather go used and find a nice deal on an instrument with a few scars already than get a shiny new one that I might be afraid to gig.

There's tons of Mccartys and CU22 that have been extensively gigged already but the Paul's guitar is more of a "specialty" instrument that is appealing to PRS aficionados and those guitars, IMO, are generally very well cared for and kept in pristine condition.
Get an SE version first...

At that price, you can beat the hell out of it and gig with it too...
 
Have you considered looking for a Standard 22 as well? Same guitar, but without the maple top. I saw this one on reverb and thought it checks a few of your boxes. Pickups are probably HFS/VB.
 
Hm not a bad idea. I forgot to mention I’m in Europe tho which limits the pool to pick from because I won’t buy outside of EU.
 
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Gotcha. Good luck! Definitely share your NGD if you find something you like. I was looking for something very similar recently, as I'm a fan of the stop tail too. I picked this up last month. Weighs 7.4 lbs. I am very happy with it.

 
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