Show your pedal boards here!

As a starving student, I had to go with Earl's instead of Aeroquip. But an overly clean engine like this was a sign of an unused engine. What a shame? Spending that much time to tune quad Webers and not burnish the chrome is just, well, a shame. Mine was orange, gloss black and a little chrome (one of the mechanics had a dip tank at home and would pull parts off my engine for 24 hours, only to return them beautifully chromed. He couldn't stand the lack of chrome.) My little 500+ HP small block wasn't all that pretty, but very functional. I appreciate this level of clean, but it's unrealistic for me...a heavy user.

That's just not true. You can have a very sanitary engine compartment and use the car. It just takes a little elbow grease!

I raced a BMW 633CSi I bought new in the 80s, but it was also "clean" enough that I "showed" it and won some trophies for it as a show car. Of course, I didn't win very many trophies for it racing; I got one second place, once. For me, it was sufficiently fun to get out there on the track, and have a go at it, and that was my purpose.

We used to rent race tracks like Mid-Ohio, Waterford, Grattan and others for timed events, two cars on the track at a time against the clock, with staggered starts.

It was modded with Hartge components from Germany, basically enough to make it go, but keep it street legal. For a heavy car like the 633 to keep up with the Porsches was a cool thing...

It wasn't wheel-to-wheel racing, which suited me fine. But I sure used that thing. AND kept it sanitary.
 
That's just not true. You can have a very sanitary engine compartment and use the car. It just takes a little elbow grease!

I raced a BMW 633CSi I bought new in the 80s, but it was also "clean" enough that I "showed" it and won some trophies for it as a show car. Of course, I didn't win very many trophies for it racing; I got one second place, once. For me, it was sufficiently fun to get out there on the track, and have a go at it, and that was my purpose.

We used to rent race tracks like Mid-Ohio, Waterford, Grattan and others for timed events, two cars on the track at a time against the clock, with staggered starts.

It was modded with Hartge components from Germany, basically enough to make it go, but keep it street legal. For a heavy car like the 633 to keep up with the Porsches was a cool thing...

It wasn't wheel-to-wheel racing, which suited me fine. But I sure used that thing. AND kept it sanitary.
Ok, let's qualify this a little. The picture of the non-functional "pretty-boy" billet aluminum filled engine is a show piece, not "drive" piece. Once you pierce a hose and the wrong stuff hits that pretty metal at temp, it will bake on and require complete disassembly to get it that flawless again. There's a big difference between a show car and a club racer. The hard core guys don't often mix the two.

I've raced my 911, wheel-to-wheel, as you say. It can easily clean up and be pretty darned clean, and it photographs well, but it's a Porsche and let's face it, they leak. I gave up on it being immaculate long ago. Much like my Custom 24 after the stage accident. (see, I tied it all back to guitars!)

Btw, I'm only mildly poking at you here. ;) Just trying to give you something different to think about and maybe minimize those "pre game jitters". :)
 
Ok, let's qualify this a little. The picture of the non-functional "pretty-boy" billet aluminum filled engine is a show piece, not "drive" piece. Once you pierce a hose and the wrong stuff hits that pretty metal at temp, it will bake on and require complete disassembly to get it that flawless again. There's a big difference between a show car and a club racer. The hard core guys don't often mix the two.

I've raced my 911, wheel-to-wheel, as you say. It can easily clean up and be pretty darned clean, and it photographs well, but it's a Porsche and let's face it, they leak. I gave up on it being immaculate long ago. Much like my Custom 24 after the stage accident. (see, I tied it all back to guitars!)

Btw, I'm only mildly poking at you here. ;) Just trying to give you something different to think about and maybe minimize those "pre game jitters". :)

Mmm...well...I posted my post merely to explain what I meant by sanitary.

I had pretty boy billet aluminum on the engine of the car I raced. Nothing bad happened to it. I liked it. My pedalboard's got billet aluminum on it, too, come to think of it. The Suhr pedals' enclosures are made of that stuff, and then anodized. It's actually a much more robust finish than paint.
 
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"BMW 633CSi .... in the 80s"

and now I'm tripping back to 'Moonlighting'
 
I don't think I've ever gotten around to posting my pedalboard on here:
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Hoping to trade the Nova Delay and the HOF mini in for a Timeline and a BigSky at some point
 
How difficult of a learning curve does the Mobius have? I'm used to neanderthal simple.
Well, it can get a little complex if you really dig into, but it has like 100 presets that are fairly usable even without modifying them. But it's definitely a tweaker's kind of pedal.
 
I recently pondered whether I wanted to expand my gigging board, upsizing a slight bit so I could add a Boss RT-20 for Leslie-ish sounds.

As I considered this, I realized I wanted to add more than just that, but a bigger board as my main board was not going to cut it in at least one of the places we regularly gig (there is barely room for my PT-mini there!)

So I thought, "Hey, how about an expansion board that I daisy-chain into the main board?" So I got a PT Classic Jr, which daisy-chains into the electric/dirty side of my main board (which also has an "acoustic" side).

Not gigged with it yet - just assembled the Classic Jr board in the last two nights - but I like the additional flavors I now have at my disposal.

The main board is the one on the left. The signal from the wireless receiver goes into the Hotone Harmony pedal, and then into the LS-2, which selects between two loops. The output of the LS-2 goes into a Keelay Mini-Katana boost and then the EHX 720 looper, and then out to an acoustic amp or PA. One loop of the LS-2 goes through the Fishman for acoustic tones (works best with piezo pickup), the other goes through all the other pedals visible - on the main board it goes to the Myomorpha RAT clone, RV-3, F-Pedal PhazeVibe, and then to Joyo Clean Glass (amp emulator).

The second board inserts between the RAT clone and the RV-3, and goes:

Joyo Vintage Overdrive -> Earthquaker Devices Dream Crusher -> Keeley Oxblood -> Keeley 30ms -> MXR Phase100 -> Neunaber (w/EXP) -> Catalinbread Echorec -> BF-2 -> RT-20 -> TR-2


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Super-nice, Shinksma!
Thanks! My pedal collection methodology is "eclectic", being almost 100% Boss for 30 years or so until I "discovered" TGP. Now I have a bunch of not-quite-boutique pedals that do some cool different stuff, but I still buy Boss - that TR-2 is fairly recent. Oh, and the BF-2 was all worn-out looking when I got it 20 years ago, I'm pretty gentle on my pedals. My oldest pedals from 1984-ish (HM-2, CE-3, CS-3, IIRC) still look pretty new.
 
Thanks! My pedal collection methodology is "eclectic", being almost 100% Boss for 30 years or so until I "discovered" TGP. Now I have a bunch of not-quite-boutique pedals that do some cool different stuff, but I still buy Boss - that TR-2 is fairly recent. Oh, and the BF-2 was all worn-out looking when I got it 20 years ago, I'm pretty gentle on my pedals. My oldest pedals from 1984-ish (HM-2, CE-3, CS-3, IIRC) still look pretty new.

Hey, Boss are good pedals, as we both know, lots of pros swear by them.

Yes, there are other cool pedals on the market, and eclectic is a good thing!
 
Mine is mono, but I'm pretty sure they make a stereo one.

For stereo, I'd get the Strymon Lux. You can feed the horn into one amp and the rotor into the other, and both ramp up and down at different rates. I liked it a lot, but found it less inspiring in mono and went back to a vibe.
 
I love what a Univibe does through a good guitar amp. It's a juicy thing that nothing else can do.

I always thought it was interesting that the original design was to emulate a Leslie speaker, which it didn't do well, but it became a great effect anyway, just by virtue of the fact that it does cool things.

The Eventide H9 I have does a great Leslie simulation, but doesn't really capture the essence of a great analog Vibe. Another thing I need to put back on my board! :eek:
 
So simple but strait up rock! I think I've said this before but I'll say it again, I love your Fulltone! I want one so bad! Does it do stereo by the way?
Mine is mono, but I'm pretty sure they make a stereo one.

For stereo, I'd get the Strymon Lux. You can feed the horn into one amp and the rotor into the other, and both ramp up and down at different rates. I liked it a lot, but found it less inspiring in mono and went back to a vibe.
I went looking at this, as I have recently been jonesing for a really great univibe solution (got a "good" micro-pedal for the gigging board). It appears to only have a mono version - I couldn't find any stereo version of it.

Screamingdaisy, how much do you use the pedal to adjust speed (I assume it affects only speed)? I would normally just look for a traditional stompbox pedal solution where you set-and-forget the rate, but if the treadle allows on-the-fly adjustments that could be uber cool.
 
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