New Pedalboard aka Nebulon B progress build

Thanks, guys, especially to you, Reub; very tempted with power tools right now.

I had a revelation just a moment ago. It's yet to be tested, but I may put both PSUs on the bottom deck and place the pedals on top. I want to keep both Cioks; it's enough to power the whole board and to have some AUX power outputs (like for external wah, i.e.).

I have two days off after tonight, and I will brainstorm some ideas
 
Last edited:
Time for a real update. I had two days off work when the first day was mostly dedicated to new layout planning. I wanted to keep both the Cioks DC7 and the 8 Expander. Unfortunately, no chance. No matter how much planning I was putting into it and how creative I was trying to be, there was no chance to keep both on a small board such as SA450. If only Schmidt had enough space between the bottom deck and the floor of the pedalboard, it would be such a great place to hide the power supply there.

The plan will be to cheat a bit with the power layout. I will use two isolated outs from the DC7 to run each to one of two Secret Preamps, and I will split the power from there to two GigRig isolators. One Isolator will be used to power 18VDC pedals by linking two Isolator outs, while the other Isolator will power all low-consumption pedals such as the Octaland, tuner, Q-zone, and an MXR buffer/splitter. I still may have a bit of a problem fitting the new X4LC series Isolators on, they are significantly larger than the old version I can't find anywhere, but this is the nearest to the perfect solution I was able to come up with. Same time I won't have enough isolated outs to do an AUX power for external WahWah, but I can leave with it. For now, that is.

My progress on day two was bigger than I thought it would be. I did half the audio for the QMX looper, the preamp output section wiring (except the output jack, I'm just waiting for the shielded heat shrink tubing), and a part of the input section from the splitter. Power has yet to be done, mostly due to issues with the power grid explained above. It's for another day.

So far, I'm happy with the cable run. Since the bottom deck lays so low above the floor, I had to double down on cable tie bases to keep the cable runs flat. I couldn't click the deck back in place otherwise. I like how it looks; it will be easier to troubleshoot, too. Once the power grid is laid, I will change the cable ties to red. I did that with some of my previous pedalboards, and for some reason, I like the black+red look of it—just my thing, that's all.

Another thing I did in the last two days was to modify the black Secret Preamp. It lives just below the Looper/Drum Machine, and I rest my heel on it when I loop over. Since it's always on, I removed the footswitch and changed the knob to make it fit the purpose. I used a silicon gasket under the knob to stop it from accidentally rotating. All came out clean.

So, the pictures, in no particular order:

















 
Last edited:
Time for a real update. I had two days off work when the first day was mostly dedicated to new layout planning. I wanted to keep both the Cioks DC7 and the 8 Expander. Infortunetally, no chance. No matter how much planning I was putting into it and how creative I was trying to be, there was no chance to keep both on a small board such as SA450. If only Shmidt had enough space between the bottom deck and the floor of the pedalboard, it would be such a great place to hide the power supply there.

The plan will be to cheat a bit with the power layout. I will use two isolated outs from the DC7 to run each to one of two Secret Preamps, and I will split the power from there to two GigRig isolators. One Isolator will be used to power 18VDC pedals by linking two Isolator outs, while the other Isolator will power all low-consumption pedals such as the Octaland, tuner, Q-zone, and an MXR buffer/splitter. I still may have a bit of a problem fitting the new X4LC series Isolators on, they are significantly larger than the old version I can't find anywhere, but this is the nearest to the perfect solution I was able to come up with. Same time I won't have enough isolated outs to do an AUX power for external WahWah, but I can leave with it. For now, that is.

My progress on day two was bigger than I thought it would be. I did half the audio for the QMX looper, the preamp output section wiring (except the output jack, I'm just waiting for the shielded heat shrink tubing), and a part of the input section from the splitter. Power has yet to be done, mostly due to issues with the power grid explained above. It's for another day.

So far, I'm happy with the cable run. Since the bottom deck lays so low above the floor, I had to double down on cable tie bases to keep the cable runs flat. I couldn't click the deck back in place otherwise. I like how it looks; it will be easier to troubleshoot, too. Once the power grid is laid, I will change the cable ties to red. I did that with some of my previous pedalboards, and for some reason, I like the black+red look of it—just my thing, that's all.

Another thing I did in the last two days was to modify the black Secret Preamp. It lives just below the Looper/Drum Machine, and I rest my heel on it when I loop over. Since it's always on, I removed the footswitch and changed the knob to make it fit the purpose. I used a silicon gasket under the knob to stop it from accidentally rotating. All came out clean.

So, the pictures, in no particular order:

















Looking good!
 
Hey Simon, quick question, and I probably reveal my ignorance here...

Why so many consecutive cable tie-downs in a row? Wouldn't fewer make servicing the board/changing pedals a simpler process, yet hold the cables in place as well? I've seen some of Dave Friedman's work for touring artists, and the cabling is very neat, but uses far fewer cable tie-downs.

Not that I don't appreciate how cool it looks, mind you. I'm just curious.
 
Last edited:
Hey Simon, quick question, and I probably reveal my ignorance here...

Why so many consecutive cable tie-downs in a row? Wouldn't fewer make servicing the board/changing pedals a simpler process, yet hold the cables in place as well? I've seen some of Dave Friedman's work for touring artists, and the cabling is very neat, but uses far fewer cable tie-downs.

Not that I don't appreciate how cool it looks, mind you. I'm just curious.

Just the looks, Les. This is how I roll; it just personally looks nicer to me. A quarter or less of the count will probably do the job just fine, but it makes me super satisfied seeing the cable bases laid so snugly. The same thing comes to the pedals I build. Maybe a form of OCD; I don't know. If it's worth doing in the first place, it's also worth doing to the best of my abilities.

I regularly get **** for it on a TGP ;)
 
Just the looks, Les. This is how I roll; it just personally looks nicer to me. A quarter or less of the count will probably do the job just fine, but it makes me super satisfied seeing the cable bases laid so snugly. The same thing comes to the pedals I build. Maybe a form of OCD; I don't know. If it's worth doing in the first place, it's also worth doing to the best of my abilities.

I regularly get **** for it on a TGP ;)
I agree, it looks killer, and I appreciate the info.

At some point in the not-too-distant future I'm going to redo the wiring on mine - not that I need to for audio reasons! But damn, it's gonna look very cool when you open up your board and it's wired like the Space Shuttle. ;)

I'll probably go with fewer tie-down bases. That way if I make a pedal change, it'll be a few % less headache.
 
I agree, it looks killer, and I appreciate the info.

At some point in the not-too-distant future I'm going to redo the wiring on mine - not that I need to for audio reasons! But damn, it's gonna look very cool when you open up your board and it's wired like the Space Shuttle. ;)

I'll probably go with fewer tie-down bases. That way if I make a pedal change, it'll be a few % less headache.

If I can offer you advice, plan ahead - I used graphic software to do my plan weeks before I started the build. Even then, take one day extra and move things around on your pedalboard to double-check your math. With all my planning, I still had to modify my layout. Another piece of advice; use a lot of cable ties. Tie the cable down gently even when you do a first run to hold it in place. I cut and replaced the cable ties several times during the build. I go through hundreds; for this pedalboard, I have stocked up 500 cable ties for my build. I won't use them all, but I will use many.

I said that before, but it's a shame we are so far away. I would love to wire your board.
 
If I can offer you advice, plan ahead - I used graphic software to do my plan weeks before I started the build. Even then, take one day extra and move things around on your pedalboard to double-check your math. With all my planning, I still had to modify my layout. Another piece of advice; use a lot of cable ties. Tie the cable down gently even when you do a first run to hold it in place. I cut and replaced the cable ties several times during the build. I go through hundreds; for this pedalboard, I have stocked up 500 cable ties for my build. I won't use them all, but I will use many.

I said that before, but it's a shame we are so far away. I would love to wire your board.
I don't plan on changing a thing with pedals or their location. The goal would be to make the wiring neater and more organized -- but that alone is gonna take some planning!

It really is a drag about the distance. The best part would be just to hang out!
 
It may not look like much progress since last time, but I can't do much more until next week when I get more parts and pedals.

I did part of the power grid, added a few more signal patch connections and corrected some lead dress. Next week I should have the Morningstar MC6 Pro MIDI controller, Dunlop Q-Zone and all the I/O hardware, so I will make the pedalboard operational, yet not finished. I still need to source the GigRig Isolators (I need two) and the last pedal, Strymon Cloudburst. But that may take me a while. The holiday season is approaching, so I must shift my financial focus. Gigrig and Strymon are £400 alone, and that's one hell of a camping trip, of which I plan many this coming summer.

Progress photos:


 
It may not look like much progress since last time, but I can't do much more until next week when I get more parts and pedals.

I did part of the power grid, added a few more signal patch connections and corrected some lead dress. Next week I should have the Morningstar MC6 Pro MIDI controller, Dunlop Q-Zone and all the I/O hardware, so I will make the pedalboard operational, yet not finished. I still need to source the GigRig Isolators (I need two) and the last pedal, Strymon Cloudburst. But that may take me a while. The holiday season is approaching, so I must shift my financial focus. Gigrig and Strymon are £400 alone, and that's one hell of a camping trip, of which I plan many this coming summer.

Progress photos:


I can see the progress!

What a great build so far. Terrific!
 
I can see the progress!

What a great build so far. Terrific!

Thanks, Brother!

I'm getting there slowly.

It's not the only thing I did today; I did a lot of testing too. I mentioned this earlier in the thread, but there will be a small external rack unit to manage switching between the Boogie and the Synergy preamp. I also had a few issues integrating Synergy into my setup because Boogie Master Volume is after the FX Loop, which was making the volume of the Synergy blasting unrestrained PA of my Boogie when switched over. I had to be creative; I used Synergy FX loop for Zuul gate (I didn't want Boogie to be gated) and a JHS Little Black Amp Box to level down the preamp's volume. Then, the Boogie and the Synergy preamp stages have been rerouted to the JHS Switchback A/B box. Switchback "Guitar" input became the new preamp Input point from the pedalboard, and the Switchback "Amp" output became the new FX Send point. The Morningstar MC6 Pro MIDI controller will remotely switch the switchback via the Morningstar MIDI box and the Relay Interface. The other two Relay Interfaces (three in total) will sort out the Boogie and Synergy channel switching. Lots of fucking around, but like I said before; If I want things my way, I will haemorrhage resources to make it my way. I was afraid of the new fake FX loop levels, but to be fair, all works just fine and sounds awesome.

Here's the graphic representation of what I just said. A full rig diagram:

 
Thanks, Brother!

I'm getting there slowly.

It's not the only thing I did today; I did a lot of testing too. I mentioned this earlier in the thread, but there will be a small external rack unit to manage switching between the Boogie and the Synergy preamp. I also had a few issues integrating Synergy into my setup because Boogie Master Volume is after the FX Loop, which was making the volume of the Synergy blasting unrestrained PA of my Boogie when switched over. I had to be creative; I used Synergy FX loop for Zuul gate (I didn't want Boogie to be gated) and a JHS Little Black Amp Box to level down the preamp's volume. Then, the Boogie and the Synergy preamp stages have been rerouted to the JHS Switchback A/B box. Switchback "Guitar" input became the new preamp Input point from the pedalboard, and the Switchback "Amp" output became the new FX Send point. The Morningstar MC6 Pro MIDI controller will remotely switch the switchback via the Morningstar MIDI box and the Relay Interface. The other two Relay Interfaces (three in total) will sort out the Boogie and Synergy channel switching. Lots of fucking around, but like I said before; If I want things my way, I will haemorrhage resources to make it my way. I was afraid of the new fake FX loop levels, but to be fair, all works just fine and sounds awesome.

Here's the graphic representation of what I just said. A full rig diagram:

It's a complex signal path! Sometimes that can be challenging, but I'm sure you've gotten things working up to snuff.

I'm like you: I want a rig the way I envision it, no compromises if at all possible.

You'd have loved my former studio patchbay; every output and input on every piece of equipment was wired into five 96 point TT bays and to a 64 input console with a 24 input sidecar. So that was 480 patch points, fully normalled, no noise (except low level thermal noise) visible on an oscilloscope.

Just getting the grounding set was a trip and a half all by itself; my tech and I had to create a star earth-grounding setup for each of five 20 space gear racks, plus tape machines, video machines, synths, etc. Took a couple of weeks to get that right, and every time I added a piece of gear or swapped one out, the grounding had to be modified in some way. PITA!! ;)

So I completely get what you're doing, and I say, 'Go brother'!
 
It's a complex signal path! Sometimes that can be challenging, but I'm sure you've gotten things working up to snuff.

I'm like you: I want a rig the way I envision it, no compromises if at all possible.

You'd have loved my former studio patchbay; every output and input on every piece of equipment was wired into five 96 point TT bays and to a 64 input console with a 24 input sidecar. So that was 480 patch points, fully normalled, no noise (except low level thermal noise) visible on an oscilloscope.

Just getting the grounding set was a trip and a half all by itself; my tech and I had to create a star earth-grounding setup for each of five 20 space gear racks, plus tape machines, video machines, synths, etc. Took a couple of weeks to get that right, and every time I added a piece of gear or swapped one out, the grounding had to be modified in some way. PITA!! ;)

So I completely get what you're doing, and I say, 'Go brother'!

Building a multi-rack recording studio would be nerve-wracking for me, Les. Just like building this pedalboard, only a thousand times worst. Lots of AC power in close relation to audio, so many points where the rig could pick up the noise, a mile of cable and tens of dozens of connectors where one goes down, nothing works.

My pedalboard is easy in comparison, but enough to drive me crazy. You are right; I had most of it tested except for the Q-zone and Cloudburst; both will be very new to me, and I already see the space they will occupy as the only non-solid element choices. I may try other things in the spots they are taking. The rest of the options are super solid. I'm very familiar with these pedals; they all have a reason to be on my pedalboard. Some of them have been returning to me like boomerangs; Nordland ODR, for example, it's my 4th one. When I sold one, I always ordered a new one from Kai. This is my second Volante, third Cali76 (although my first bass version), second RC10R looper, and second Octaland (I only sold my first one because I liked the blue-coloured V2 better). This selection is the top 10 pedals I was using in the past. I can't play my amp without Cali76 and at least one Secret Preamp anymore; they became an integral part of my tone, part of an extension of my amp. I don't think I ever heard Synergy without them on.

So this is what I know; pedal selection, the amp and the preamp; it all works great together. Now what I don't know and what is crucial to me. All this stuff outside the pedalboard is dead quiet. Knowing it may be noisy with connectors and close proximity PSU makes me anxious.

Still, a thousand times less anxious your studio rig would make me feel :)
 
Last edited:
Building a multi-rack recording studio would be nerve-wracking for me, Les. Just like building this pedalboard, only a thousand times worst. Lots of AC power in close relation to audio, so many points where the rig could pick up the noise, a mile of cable and tens of dozens of connectors where one goes down, nothing works.

My pedalboard is easy in comparison, but enough to drive me crazy. You are right; I had most of it tested except for the Q-zone and Cloudburst; both will be very new to me, and I already see the space they will occupy as the only non-solid element choices. I may try other things in the spots they are taking. The rest of the options are super solid. I'm very familiar with these pedals; they all have a reason to be on my pedalboard. Some of them have been returning to me like boomerangs; Nordland ODR, for example, it's my 4th one. When I sold one, I always ordered a new one from Kai. This is my second Volante, third Cali76 (although my first bass version), second RC10R looper, and second Octaland (I only sold my first one because I liked the blue-coloured V2 better). This selection is the top 10 pedals I was using in the past. I can't play my amp with Cali76 and at least one Secret Preamp anymore; they became an integral part of my tone, part of an extension of my amp. I don't think I ever heard Synergy without them on.

So this is what I know; pedal selection, the amp and the preamp; it all works great together. Now what I don't know and what is crucial to me. All this stuff outside the pedalboard is dead quiet. Knowing it may be noisy with connectors and close proximity PSU makes me anxious.

Still, a thousand times less anxious your studio rig would make me feel :)
You're right. The studio wiring was challenging; in fact, it was WAY more than I could possibly handle alone.

I hired a professional studio tech (who also held an electrical engineering degree) to help plan and install it. Cost a small fortune, but worth it!

In the '90s, you couldn't buy pre-wired patch bays. Now you can get them with D-Sub connectors.

All the patch points - 480 of 'em - had to be individually soldered to cabling. The tech did all that, and he had an assistant to help. One thing that made it easier was that I bought Mogami multi-pair cables. Each cable handled 16 or 8 connections, depending on the gear I was installing. But each sub-cable not only had to be wired to the patchbay, it had to be wired to plugs to go into and out of the hardware. I also bought hundreds of Mogami TT patch cables that 28 years later are still functional! I wound up giving the patch bays to friends when I went "in the box", but still have a steamer trunk full of cables that I kept for some reason I can't fathom! It takes two people to even lift it an inch off the ground from the weight of all the copper and rubber!

Most of the gear also had MIDI; I used Mogami MIDI cables as well.

It took at least a week just to lay the cables out and plug them in, testing each connection both with audio and an oscilloscope to check noise.

I didn't have a new floor put in with pro studio cable troughs; it would have been prohibitive in cost, and my ceiling heigh would have been compromised.

I ran all the cables on the floor behind the racks, and got long velcro cable ties to keep them all in place. All of the plugs were labeled and then wrapped with clear shrink-wrap. AC cables were all dressed to one side of the rack, and secured in the back of the rack. Each rack had a power block for AC power. The audio cables and MIDI cables were dressed to the other side.

All of the power blocks were connected to a 2 Kilovolt isolation transformer made by SOLA. I had it converted to balanced AC lines to reduce noise. However, the transformer was mechanically noisy as hell, so I had to have the HVAC room I kept it in soundproofed. That was a pain the rear of major proportions!

These days you can buy silent, balanced isolation transformers from companies like Furman and Equi=Tech, and I use one with the remaining hardware I have.

I don't want to say it was a nightmare; that's the way it had to be done back then. But I was physically wiped out after it was done!

So in a way, it was like building a gigantic pedalboard! Only worse! ;)
 
Last edited:
Back
Top