New Pedalboard aka Nebulon B progress build

[László]

It's not that difficult, although it may initially seem scary. The easiest way to explain essential MIDI operation is by seeing the midi controller as a talk group radio. You can select a dedicated group to talk to or a combination of groups to communicate with. These are your channels. Equally, the pedals accepting your MIDI communicates are these talk groups; they are assigned to a channel the MIDI controller recognises. In my case, the Volante is on talk group 1 (midi channel 1), the One Control is talk group 2 (channel 2), and so on; up to 16 channels MC6 can handle. So then, let's look at specific channels; they accept two types of "languages". PC (program change) and CC (control change). PC's are preset within the unit you are playing with. PC00 can be your bypass, PC01 can be preset 1, PC02 preset 2, etc. PC communicates can switch channels in your amp or switch the reverb on and off. To know which PC communicate is responsible for what, refer to the effect manual; the pedal manufacturer predefines them. Same story with CC, although CC targets effect parameters like tap tempo, mix, volume pedal position, and whatever parameter that can be adjusted in real-time. That's it! MIDI 101 for you

Sorry, I didn't make myself clear.

I'm pretty sophisticated regarding MIDI, having used it since it was invented, in connection with everything from programming patch and CC changes to probably 20 pieces of studio hardware at once so I could instantly recall sessions via both hardware MIDI controllers and software DAWs, to programming synths, to using MIDI time code to sync computers and digital recorders via SMPTE to video, etc.

I know all about channels, CC numbers, and how it operates. I use it daily in my work, still; I send CC information to gear and to my software orchestral libraries, and program a controller pretty much on the fly in order to do it.

I just didn't understand why you'd need something with MIDI in the context of a pedalboard loop switcher that lives on your pedalboard instead of being remotely located. I have loop switchers from Lehle (two different models that do stereo, and switch loops with a simple switch, though at this point they're in a drawer because I don't need them).

 

[Simon Says]

Sorry, I didn't make myself clear.

I'm pretty sophisticated regarding MIDI, having used it since it was invented, in connection with everything from programming patch and CC changes to probably 20 pieces of studio hardware at once so I could instantly recall sessions via both hardware MIDI controllers and software DAWs, to programming synths, to using MIDI time code to sync computers and digital recorders via SMPTE to video, etc.

I know all about channels, CC numbers, and how it operates. I use it daily in my work, still; I send CC information to gear and to my software orchestral libraries, and program a controller pretty much on the fly in order to do it.

I just didn't understand why you'd need something with MIDI in the context of a pedalboard loop switcher that lives on your pedalboard instead of being remotely located. I have loop switchers from Lehle (two different models that do stereo, and switch loops with a simple switch, though at this point they're in a drawer because I don't need them).

Aw, I'm sorry, buddy—busy and draining day.

Why do I need it? I probably don't Not to its full potential, that is. It's just a glorified channel/amp switcher. I have two channels in Fillmore and two more channels in Synergy Preamp to deal with. Other than that, I do use a lot of stuff from Volante. I have one present set for the rhythmic multi-head delay (kinda dotted 8th style but with a different head spacing) and two less complex presets (single head, one repeat with feedback, and a copy of that with no feedback, which I use for soloing). I use Volante onboard reverb, too, just by itself; that's already four presets I would like easy access to. Now I can assign them to specific banks and presets within them, and it takes less space than two amp switchers and Strymon multi switch +.

The first concept included two small 3-button Morningstars, one for amp switching and one for Volante for quick preset access, but they don't make them any more.

I am only scratching the surface of what the MC-6 can do; I don't even use it as a loop switcher. I don't think I will have more than one bank and two pages set up on MC-6. I have a manual GigRig loop switcher with four pedals I see more as a toy than an essential element of my tone. I can kick in ocatafuzz or booster to any main tone without jumping banks and pages. It makes more sense to me, but I have never seen another pedalboard setup quite like mine where the tone is selected with a MIDI switch and flavour added with the manual, series analogue looper.

 

[László]

Aw, I'm sorry, buddy—busy and draining day.

Why do I need it? I probably don't Not to its full potential, that is. It's just a glorified channel/amp switcher. I have two channels in Fillmore and two more channels in Synergy Preamp to deal with. Other than that, I do use a lot of stuff from Volante. I have one present set for the rhythmic multi-head delay (kinda dotted 8th style but with a different head spacing) and two less complex presets (single head, one repeat with feedback, and a copy of that with no feedback, which I use for soloing). I use Volante onboard reverb, too, just by itself; that's already four presets I would like easy access to. Now I can assign them to specific banks and presets within them, and it takes less space than two amp switchers and Strymon multi switch +.

The first concept included two small 3-button Morningstars, one for amp switching and one for Volante for quick preset access, but they don't make them any more.

I am only scratching the surface of what the MC-6 can do; I don't even use it as a loop switcher. I don't think I will have more than one bank and two pages set up on MC-6. I have a manual GigRig loop switcher with four pedals I see more as a toy than an essential element of my tone. I can kick in ocatafuzz or booster to any main tone without jumping banks and pages. It makes more sense to me, but I have never seen another pedalboard setup quite like mine where the tone is selected with a MIDI switch and flavour added with the manual, series analogue looper.

Got it!

It sounds like you'll get some enjoyable use out of it, and I get it now, especially with the Volante and Strymon stuff for calling up patches.

I hope I didn't come across as testy. Kind of a weird day here, too.

 

[Simon Says]

Got it!

It sounds like you'll get some enjoyable use out of it, and I get it now, especially with the Volante and Strymon stuff for calling up patches.

I hope I didn't come across as testy. Kind of a weird day here, too.

Nah, man. You are a peach

 

[Alnus Rubra]

Should I change the ziptie colour to a different one?

I won’t say purple ️ then

 

[Simon Says]

I won’t say purple ️ , then

I will keep some for you

It's 0240am, and I'm done for the day.

The board is partially alive, although I'm too knackered to go into detail about how much hell I went through with it today.

At least I'm halfway there



EDIT:

I'm on nights starting tomorrow, so I may as well stay up at night and describe in a bit more detail all the stuff I had issues with

The main issue was the power of my pedalboard.

So the power issue was identified relatively early in the build. I knew that I couldn't fit both the Cioks DC7 and the 8 Expander due to space restrictions. I purchased three GigRig Isolators to split the power for all isolated feeds to all pedals and pedalboard components.

I have used the Isolators before. Handy little widgets, easy to place whenever as they don't take much space. A month or two ago, they were upgraded by GigRig to version 2; slightly bigger, now made of brushed aluminium, but I thought of the same spec internally. They should be connected to a power source with at least 500mA, and they will give you four isolated 9v/100mA outs. The ones I have used before could be linked (rewired) to 18vdc operation with no mA loss.

And now, the problem.

I have two pedals on my board where I wanted the isolators to power them with 18v. The mA would be fine; the Nordland draws 14mA according to the manual, and the other one, Origin Cali76, draws 100mA on startup, then slightly less (measured). So I have started wiring the power, and the Nordland's LED barely dims, and the Cali76 not reacts, no startup, just dead. It still works with just the 9VDC.

I am trying to understand why the linking outs of the Isolator failed to supply sufficient power. It worked just fine with the previous version of the Isolator. At first, I thought it might be related to the current, but Nordland takes a tiny current, and the 18VDC wiring didn't work either. The Multimeter measures correct 18VDC, but it isn't working for some reason.

So I was staring at the pedalboard for a few hours yesterday, trying to figure out what to do. Two of the pedals on my board are not solid choices; most likely, I will be changing them for something else. One is the Magma57, which I already decided to ditch. I may use some power-hungry pedal in its place in future, and 9VDC/100mA power feed may not be future-proof. Therefore I have decided to run a DC7 660mA power out to this spot. I can select the voltage I want to power everything in this spot.

Solution:

So I needed to completely redesign the whole power grid and redo the power layout. I had to cut it all out and figure out how to "create" a couple of high-current PSU outs. Ultimately, I have decided to put the GigRig QMX4 and the Morningstar MC-6 on the same DC7 power line. Together they should draw 550mA max and operate on the same voltage. Sharing power is what I wanted to avoid, but they don't carry any audio and should give me no ground loop. It worked just fine, both starting up and operating with no issues. Two other outs have been dedicated to feeding two Isolators. These power all the low current pedals like Nordland (on 9VDC, not the 18VDC as I initially wanted), two Secret Preamps, Octaland, CAE splitter, Tuner and the Q-zone. Four other DC7 high current outs are dedicated to power all the upper deck pedals; Volante, Cali76 (on 18VDC), Boss RC-10R and the 4th pedal (I am still determining what it will be just yet). I was still deciding if this would work, as the manual for the Secret Preamps stated the current should be at least 150mA to power each of them. I chatted with a friend (shout out to Kevin at Aion Electronics), who said there is no way they draw that much current. Chase Tone probably took the number from the charge pump datasheet as the absolute max the charge pump can eat up, but not necessarily will, based on a single JFET-based buffer. It worked fine with a 100mA Isolator, with no added noise; the pedals sound familiar to me. Win!

So yeah, it was interesting to go back to square one with the power grid, but I'm optimistic I will be moving forward now.

 

[László]

Looks like you solved a serious conundrum. I wouldn't have had the patience.

You're a better man than I am, Gunga Din!

 

[BigChrisW]

I'm excited to hear how it all sounds... looks awesome

 

[Simon Says]

Looks like you solved a serious conundrum. I wouldn't have had the patience.

You're a better man than I am, Gunga Din!

I'm excited to hear how it all sounds... looks awesome

Thanks, lads!

Today I made a lot of progress, and I'm pleased to report that the board is more-less operational; other than I knocked out all my settings, and it sounds like ****. It's passing the signal, not adding noise other than with the Herbert preamp, which is small enough for Zuul to cancel at minimal settings (I had the gate only in the Synergy loop, Fillmore doesn't need it; it's dead silent).

So what I did today is the whole inside deck, all Quartermaster connections and literally everything other than the power for the upper deck (all FX loop pedals). I just ran out of time. The Morningstar is not yet hooked up, although the MIDI-out rail is laid. I need to wait with this as the 10k wah-style pot I ordered three weeks ago has yet to arrive (!!!), and I cannot modify the Xotic Volume Pedal to the EXP pedal spec without it. Sure, it may work with a stock 25k potentiometer, but there is a risk of glitching, and it's only 20 quid, yadda, yadda... I should be programming the MC-6 Pro and incorporating gear external to the pedalboard, i.e., the MIDI host, JHS A/B box for preamp switching, Morningstar Relay Interfaces and the gate. This will be built into a small rack and live alongside my Furman PSU. Yep, I'm not quite finished, not even close.

There is a spot for one more pedal on the upper deck, which I cannot buy now, it's expensive, and I blew all my savings on this summer holiday planning; I will most likely go with Strymon Cloudburst, not the Magma57 as planned initially. Magma needs the One Control MIDI looper to be switched in and out; whatever I do, I can't find the space for it. Besides, the board's goal was less space and fewer overdrive options. Yet another overdrive, no matter how cool, just doesn't fit the bill. The Q-zone in the inner deck may not be my thing too, and I may give it a shot with a polyphonic octave again. EHX is just about to release Pico POG... I will give it more time and see if I can find a creative use for cocked wah first.

Anyways, a few pics. Excuse the mess

 

[László]

Thanks, lads!

Today I made a lot of progress, and I'm pleased to report that the board is more-less operational; other than I knocked out all my settings, and it sounds like ****. It's passing the signal, not adding noise other than with the Herbert preamp, which is small enough for Zuul to cancel (I had the gate only in the Synergy loop, Fillmore doesn't need it; it's dead silent).

So what I did today is the whole inside deck, all Quartermaster connections and literally everything other than the power for the upper deck (all FX loop pedals). I just ran out of time. The Morningstar is not yet hooked up, although the MIDI-out rail is laid. I need to wait with this as the 10k wah-style pot I ordered three weeks ago has yet to arrive (!!!), and I cannot modify the Xotic Volume Pedal to the EXP pedal spec without it. Sure, it may work with a stock 25k potentiometer, but there is a risk of glitching, and it's only 20 quid, yadda, yadda... I should be programming the MC-6 Pro and incorporating gear external to the pedalboard, i.e., the MIDI host, JHS A/B box for preamp switching, Morningstar Relay Interfaces and the gate. This will be built into a small rack and live alongside my Furman PSU. Yep, I'm not quite finished, not even close.

There is a spot for one more pedal on the upper deck, which I cannot buy now, it's expensive, and I blew all my savings on this summer holiday planning; I will most likely go with Strymon Cloudburst, not the Magma57 as planned initially. Magma needs the One Control MIDI looper to be switched in and out; whatever I do, I can't find the space for it. Besides, the board's goal was less space and fewer overdrive options. Yet another overdrive, no matter how cool, just doesn't fit the bill. The Q-zone in the inner deck may not be my thing too, and I may give it a shot with a polyphonic octave again. EHX is just about to release Pico POG... I will give it more time and see if I can find a creative use for cocked wah first.

Anyways, a few pics. Excuse the mess

It's gonna be awesome. Seriously.

 

[Simon Says]

It's gonna be awesome. Seriously.

Yeah, very little to do, but may take long to finish. Just imagine this; there are no 100cm One Control MIDI cables in the whole of England.

At least I can finally plug abd play

 

[László]

Yeah, very little to do, but may take long to finish. Just imagine this; there are no 100cm One Control MIDI cables in the whole of England.

At least I can finally plug abd play

I have easily 50-75 Mogami MIDI cables from my old "everything hardware" studio ranging in length from 3 to 30 feet. Given the current needs of my studio, I'll never need most of them.

My current keyboards work via USB MIDI. Everything else I'd use MIDI for is "in the box" in my studio, except my amp switcher. So that's one 20 foot cable.

I control the H9s via Bluetooth.

The rest of these MIDI cables are sitting neatly coiled, labeled and color coded in a waterproof trunk. just in case I need them 100 years from now, if ever. If you need any cables until you can find the ones you want, you're welcome to whatever you need from my ridiculous stash.

 

[Simon Says]

I have easily 50-75 Mogami MIDI cables from my old "everything hardware" studio ranging in length from 3 to 30 feet. Given the current needs of my studio, I'll never need most of them.

My current keyboards work via USB MIDI. Everything else I'd use MIDI for is "in the box" in my studio, except my amp switcher. So that's one 20 foot cable.

I control the H9s via Bluetooth.

The rest of these MIDI cables are sitting neatly coiled, labeled and color coded in a waterproof trunk. just in case I need them 100 years from now, if ever. If you need any cables until you can find the ones you want, you're welcome to whatever you need from my ridiculous stash.

You are too kind, thank you. I have lots of MIDI cables; they are flat wire style, so not ideal to be cut in half and joined with TRS cable, which I need. One control cable comes rounded. I also need the connectors to be small. The OC cables can switch the cable side direction and need to be long enough. OC is checking all the boxes. I already have some on order

 

[László]

You are too kind, thank you. I have lots of MIDI cables; they are flat wire style, so not ideal to be cut in half and joined with TRS cable, which I need. One control cable comes rounded. I also need the connectors to be small. The OC cables can switch the cable side direction and need to be long enough. OC is checking all the boxes. I already have some on order

The OC cables look perfect for a pedalboard.

 

[László]

These are the new G&H plugs I'm having the pedalboard cables made with. They're small, comparable in profile to traditional pancake plugs. The barrel is also shorter, so they'll squeeze into tight spots better.

I've had great luck with G&H plugs, so these should work well. I'll gradually switch all of the cables to these plugs as time goes on and create a bit more space on the board.

G&H Plugs - VLP Cable

Defining High End Sound Since 1987.

www.ghplugs.com

 

[László]

How's the new pedalboard coming along, Simon? Still waiting for the MIDI cables and whatever else?

 

[Simon Says]

How's the new pedalboard coming along, Simon? Still waiting for the MIDI cables and whatever else?

Work in progress

I'm currently on a run of shifts with the Ambulances with a holiday away to follow. I spent much time programming the MC-6, getting used to its ecosystem, and laying down the plan for the banks/preset layout.

I have the board partially operational, which must do for now. At least until I get the time to finish it up.

 

[László]

Work in progress

I'm currently on a run of shifts with the Ambulances with a holiday away to follow. I spent much time programming the MC-6, getting used to its ecosystem, and laying down the plan for the banks/preset layout.

I have the board partially operational, which must do for now. At least until I get the time to finish it up.

That's a pretty cool switcher! Glad you can at least use the board to some degree, also.

I ordered two more of the Grimm cables with the small plugs; when the cables arrive I'm going to move the pedals on the top shelf closer together to create a bit more room, and organize the wiring underneath the top and bottom shelves to make the board easier to work with.

While I don't plan the kind of bulletproof installation you've managed - which I greatly admire - it'll be tidy, and much better organized.

 

[Simon Says]

That's a pretty cool switcher! Glad you can at least use the board to some degree, also.

I ordered two more of the Grimm cables with the small plugs; when the cables arrive I'm going to move the pedals on the top shelf closer together to create a bit more room, and organize the wiring underneath the top and bottom shelves to make the board easier to work with.

While I don't plan the kind of bulletproof installation you've managed - which I greatly admire - it'll be tidy, and much better organized.

Yeah, these G&H plugs are fire. If I knew they existed, I would save myself gutting a bunch of Boss patch cables. I still may go with a couple if they do stereo versions; I need them for MIDI cables, the EXP pedal and some other things outside the pedalboard, like the preamp F/S.

I have been brainstorming the MC-6 Pro layout for the past few days, and I think I know which way to go with it. I will only take a couple of banks, out of which Bank 1 is my Home page; it will contain the six most used presets, clean (green Fillmore channel with a notch of reverb), crunch (Red Fillmore channel, dry) and drive (Herbert Blue channel, dry) will take three bottom row switches. The following three switches above will be a wetter variation of these three, so Clean + multi-head delay, crunch with a single head, medium feedback delay, and drive + single head, no feedback delay. All six presets are the ones I use the most often.

The three bottom switches will have secondary functions; double-tap will send to another bank. For example, double-tap switch A will send me to bank 2, where I will have a collection of clean tones with different delays and reverbs, double-tap A back again will send me to a Home Bank. Double-tap switch B will send me to bank 3, where I can access the RC-10R looper and drum patterns (four pages of functions = 18 different fun functions). I may programme other banks too in the future, but this is the plan for now—the most intuitive and user (me) friendly.

EDIT: bank 4 will take Volante's Sound on Sound Looper. I forgot to mention

 

[vchizzle]

I admire your patience, courage and tech savvy skills.