Guitar Straps fitting on PRS

[Zafu]

So pardon my possible ignorance, but I've been having a difficult time fitting any of my straps on my new 30th Cust. 24. I've managed, but it's a horrible fit. I love the button knobs PRS uses, but they are huge compared to any on my other guitars and clearly, larger than what strap manufacturers prepare for.

What do you guys do? I mean, I know some of you swap them out for locking hardware, but I love the stock knobs PRS uses; just no clue how to make this work properly. Just bought a gorgeous new strap for my baby from Moodys; sweet 4" leather but it certainly doesn't feel secure on axe, or do any of my straps.

Also, I heard that leather is not good for the finish, but I assume that's for extended periods of time. Of course, removing the leather strap would not be a big deal at all if I could even get the strap on to begin with.

Can you guys please enlighten me?

Thank you.

Zafu

 

[László]

Zafu, I use the stock buttons with leather straps, and here's what I do:

PRS leather straps always went on easily because they were relatively thin and soft, and had a one inch buttonhole (measuring the length of the hole AND the slit). My last couple of PRS straps didn't have a one inch buttonhole, by the way, so I simply took an Xacto blade and made the buttonholes one inch long. You can do this with any strap.

The strap slips on easily if you do it the way you'd do a button on a shirt, one side at a time, instead of trying to get the whole thing on in one go as you might with a small strap button.

When thicker straps are new, of course, they can be stiff so you need to work them a little bit to soften them up.

When I ordered new straps from Richter in Germany recently, I asked them to make the buttonholes one inch long, which they did, and the straps fit perfectly. The Richter straps are pretty thick leather, so it's not like the leather has to be thin to work. The Richters are padded with memory foam, and the ones I have are Napa leather like this one, very comfortable and high quality:



I like the leather PRS bird straps a lot, too. Very soft and easy to get on.

Leather will interact with nitro finishes if you leave them on a long time, and all of my current PRSes are nitro finished. However, for a short time leather is fine.

Most PRSes have V12 or poly finishes, and the leather won't screw them up even for longer periods, but I'm a guy who takes the strap off the guitar after playing anyway.

 

[MikeD]

Just like Les said. I lengthen the slit with a razor blade just a bit. Doesn't take much. Cut a little and check if it fits, repeat.

 

[AP515]

I don't like to cut the leather. I just unscrew the button from the guitar, put the strap up to the guitar over the hole, and put the button back. Works great.

 

[László]

I don't like to cut the leather. I just unscrew the button from the guitar, put the strap up to the guitar over the hole, and put the button back. Works great.

Yup, that works too.

But it's a lot of work doing that every time you play, instead of just making an invisible extension in the buttonhole on the leather.

 

[AP515]

I have a strap for each guitar so when it's on it stays.

 

[markintime]

I have a strap for each guitar so when it's on it stays.

Thanks for the slit tip. Also working for this ^^^ as I await the new PRS strap that my wife just bought me for Father's Day. THAT one is going on my new 30th Anniversary, which is only fitting and proper.

 

[László]

I have a strap for each guitar so when it's on it stays.

I can't do that (keep them on permanently) as all of my guitars have a nitro finish, plus I keep them cased.

For some reason I have more straps than guitars, but that's pretty easy with only two electric guitars.

 

[AP515]

I can't do that (keep them on permanently) as all of my guitars have a nitro finish, plus I keep them cased.

For some reason I have more straps than guitars, but that's pretty easy with only two electric guitars.

I've never heard that you can't keep a strap on a Nitro guitar. Mine are mostly Poly, but a couple have nitro. I currently don't have straps on them anyway.

As for casing them. you can fold the strap along the top and it fits in the case just fine.

 

[László]

I've never heard that you can't keep a strap on a Nitro guitar. Mine are mostly Poly, but a couple have nitro. I currently don't have straps on them anyway.

As for casing them. you can fold the strap along the top and it fits in the case just fine.

From the PRS Support page:

"Do not store your nitro-finished guitar with your leather strap attached as this could cause the finish to dissolve. This damage will not be covered under the PRS Limited Lifetime Warranty." (emphasis added)

Martin Guitars, quoted from their owners' manual:

"Any type of solvent, especially those found in plastic, vinyl and leather straps, will mar the finish, as will alcohol, citric acid, aftershave lotion, insect repellent and a number of related substances." (emphasis added)

Fender says:

"Lacquer is a natural wood finish used for ages on fine furniture and musical instruments. If your guitar has a lacquer finish, do read the "Lacquer Finishes: Precautions and Care" card that came with it. Try not to expose lacquer finishes for very long to plastics, synthetics and surgical rubber tubing (stop snickering, it's used on some guitar stands and straps) all of which rect adversely with lacquer and can mar the finish."

Here's a quote from Gibson's website, similar warnings:

"Exposure to certain synthetic materials, leather straps, and cushions such as those found on some instrument stands could adversely effect the finish. To insure your finish maintains its beauty, please follow these steps:

• Never cover or wipe your instrument with synthetic materials.
• Always remove the strap from the instrument when not in use. (emphasis added).
• Cover or replace guitar stand cushions with cotton cloth."

In any case, if you're not convinced, I certainly am! And I've had finish damage on a lacquer finish from a strap in the past (my first D-18 had this, thankfully it was a very small mark). The reason for all this is that nitro lacquer is evaporative, that is, it never fully cures. This is why it can easily be dissolved by random solvents, like the ones used to treat leather, or the plasticizers in vinyl, polyethylene, etc. This is good for repairs to nitro, but bad when the finish comes into contact with solvent-laden materials; the plasticizers and solvents that remain in vinyls and leather will dissolve your nitro finish, and you will get "finish burns" where the solvent has melted or discolored the finish.

Fact is, even cloth guitar straps have leather or some kind of plastic ends where the strap meets the guitar. So if you have nitro finished guitars, you might want to avoid keeping a strap affixed to them.

 

[pattste]

When I bought my PRS, it took the salesman about ten minutes to find a strap that could fit over the PRS buttons. I use Schaller locks on all my electrics so I don't have to deal with that (among other benefits).

 

[AP515]

From the PRS Support page:

"Do not store your nitro-finished guitar with your leather strap attached as this could cause the finish to dissolve. This damage will not be covered under the PRS Limited Lifetime Warranty."

Here's a quote from Gibson's website, same warning:

"Exposure to certain synthetic materials, leather straps, and cushions such as those found on some instrument stands could adversely effect the finish. To insure your finish maintains its beauty, please follow these steps:

• Never cover or wipe your instrument with synthetic materials.
• Always remove the strap from the instrument when not in use.
• Cover or replace guitar stand cushions with cotton cloth. "

Thanks for the instruction. Guess I'll slit the leather.

 

[László]

Thanks for the instruction. Guess I'll slit the leather.

I added to my quotes, because I did some more research to be sure I was giving solid advice. As I said, I did have an issue a long time ago with a D-18 back when they were nitro finished.

I think you're probably safe on your non-nitro finished guitars. I am not sure whether V12 has some nitrocellulose in it or not, I'd check with PRS. I heard or read somewhere that it's nitro particles suspended in a poly binder, which probably makes it immune to solvents, but I'm not 100% sure.

Incidentally, on a strap that needs a slit, we are talking maybe a 3/8" extension in the slit at most, often less. Just the least amount that will let you open the buttonhole enough to fit over the strap button.

I use a straightedge to make sure the slit stays straight, just for cosmetic reasons. I've been doing this with straps ever since 1991, when I got my first PRS, and I've never had anything happen to the strap buttonhole by extending the slit. Of course, that doesn't mean something can't happen, so check your strap periodically for wear.

 

[AP515]

...I think you're probably safe on your non-nitro finished guitars. I am not sure whether V12 has some nitrocellulose in it or not, I'd check with PRS. I heard or read somewhere that it's nitro particles suspended in a poly binder, which probably makes it immune to solvents, but I'm not 100% sure.

I agree, just the nitro's... Two Heritages that I haven't put straps on yet. They are heavy enough that I don't think I'll gig with them (if I ever gig again) and maybe 1 PRS that may have nitro.

 

[László]

Some folks may be concerned about damaging a leather strap.

So, for comparison's sake, I took pics of some of my leather straps. The one on the left is one of the straps I ordered from Richter in Germany a few months ago. It was factory-made with a 1 inch buttonhole. The strap on the right is a PRS strap whose buttonhole I extended the slit on several years ago when I bought the strap. There is wear around where the strap wraps around the button, of course, but there is no tearing of either slit at the top, as you can see. My homemade buttonhole extension looks no worse than the factory job.



I bought this suede PRS strap at least 12-13 years ago, maybe more. Again I made a tiny extension of the buttonhole slit. This strap is so old that the embossed "Paul Reed Smith" logo is barely visible:



As the viewer can see, the straps seem to stay in good shape for years, despite my poor surgical skills.

Incidentally, there have been zero problems with a guitar falling off. The suede strap has seen plenty of stage action, and while it's supple, it does not easily come off the strap button. In fact, I used it with a Modulus Graphite bass with a standard type of strap button for a decade in addition to my PRS guitars, and never had an issue.

My son had the strap on his CU22 Soapbar for several years of gigging with no issues as well (he liked borrowing my stuff from time to time).

The two straps on top are thick enough that I have literally held a PRS by the strap alone and shaken it. They remain attached to the guitar just fine (however, I figured this might not be such a great idea, so to be on the safe side, I won't do it again!).

 

[LindseyP]

... . I love the button knobs PRS uses, but they are huge compared to any on my other guitars and clearly, larger than what strap manufacturers prepare for.

What do you guys do? ...
Thank you.
Zafu

I just take the strap pin off, stick it through the guitar strap and screw it back on. The strap stays on the guitar, even when placed back into the case.

 

[Zafu]

Thank you all. I'm thinking will probably get gold Schaller locks to replace stock. It's not what I want to do, but just don't see a better solution. The straps I have and love don't fit well enough. By using the locks it will also make it easy to snap off and on.

I don't know if it's been suggested, but PRS may want to consider changing its stock design to an improved and perhaps innovative locking strap lock. Perhaps they can design one that allows a strap to go over it as normally is supposed to now, and also provide the owner with the option to use the locking mechanism. Seems to me that idea is in-line with its attention to detail.

Appreciate all the thoughtful feedback. You folks rock.

Zafu

 

[CoreyT]

I use the Schaller Strap Locks on all of my guitars/straps.
Works for me.

 

[Bill SAS 513]

I am a fan of the softer wide leather PRS straps, and adding to the slit, making it a little bit longer...BUT, an acoustic company sells kinda narrow straps with larger holes for the strap end pins...the Company name rhymes with "Kahler" (sssshhhh)...These straps are cut to go over the bottom end pin, which also doubles as the 1/4" outlet for the cable to the amp. We've had a couple of them come through the store with used guitars and I've taken a couple home, as they slide on pretty easy to my PRSi...and since I'm not flinging my guitars over my shoulder, I have no fear of them slipping off.

 

[HANGAR18]

I can see right now that I'm going to have to make a youtube video demonstrating what I am about to describe. I like the over-sized PRS strap buttons and I have some really thick leather straps that I attach to them. What I like about them is that I don't have to buy strap locks (that counts as a modification to the guitar and tanks the resale value imho) when thestrap is attached. At first it was mission impossible with a lot of cussing but now I can attach my straps quickly. ( guess I have to take the straps off my six PRS guitars now after reading the previous.)

Step 1: Picture in your mind an imaginary line through the center of the hole in the strap running from North to South or Top to Bottom. That line separates each half into Left & Right or Front & Back . (The direction of the line is important for the next step so I want to make sure I communicate it correctly. If you stretched out flat the entire strap onto the floor, you could draw one centerline through the middle of each strap hole and the centerline of the whole strap. That is the direction I am talking about.)

Step 2: Fold the strap in half at the first strap hole in line with the direction I mentioned above.

Step 3: Pick whichever half of the strap hole you want to start with (front half or back half) and seat it firmly into position against the strap button post, under the wide flared top of the button.

Step 4: Keep the first half of the strap hole seated properly with the second half of the strap hole folded in half like a taco on top of it. THEN, reach in between both halfs, grabbing the second half firmly and sliding it (upside down) firmly toward the far edge of the strap button (This will take a little effort but it gets easier with practice.) until it reaches just beyond the far side edge of the strap button.

Step 5: Unfold the second half of the strap hole material and falls right into place.

I'm sure this will make a lot more sense if I did it on a video.