Zach Myers 2021 Coil Split

[Simon_Smith]

Has anyone done it yet?

I've ordered some bits and have laid out this diagram of stock and after coil split switching added (with trebble bleeds too).

https://photos.app.goo.gl/RBZREqZCpp83tBw67

Can anyone see anything wrong? There probably is, but hopefully not. I got the pup wire colours from the PRS website and the resistor values, but get that they might need some trial and error. I've also already installed the trebble bleeds and they work a treat.

Don't go and blindly copy my diagram either, it's the first time I've laid out guitar wiring. I do have some electrical skills, but it was a long time ago!

Would be good if someone could let me know if the link worked too?

 

[Broseph]

Link works. Sorry can’t tell you more otherwise. I paid a luthier to split mine when I did some modifications.

 

[Simon_Smith]

Link works. Sorry can’t tell you more otherwise. I paid a luthier to split mine when I did some modifications.

Thanks for confirming the link. Were you happy with the sound? I don't suppose you've got any photos of the inside have you? Would be great to see how someone else has done it first, before I go start messing with it!

 

[Broseph]

I was, but i also swapped the pickups at the time. Unfortunately I did not take photos.

 

[Simon_Smith]

I was, but i also swapped the pickups at the time. Unfortunately I did not take photos.

Ah never mind, thanks. What pickups for you switch to, out of interest? I'm quite happy with my stock ones, but I'm no tone guru.

 

[John Beef]

Hey Simon. Just curious why one coil split resistor goes to ground the other goes to hot? Maybe it has something to do with the wire colors or something. I'm not 100% up on SE 4 conductor pickups.

 

[Simon_Smith]

Hey Simon. Just curious why one coil split resistor goes to ground the other goes to hot? Maybe it has something to do with the wire colors or something. I'm not 100% up on SE 4 conductor pickups.

To be fair, I think that bit is just plain wrong. I was trying to make it so that when the bridge HB was split, then the coil closest to the bridge was active. You're right though the way I've done it just won't work. There may be a way of doing it, but I think I would be better off with the coil closest to the neck being active. Far simpler to wire up i.e. just like the neck HB. I'll update my diagram and repost in a bit.

It's weird that the pickups don't share the same wire colours though!

No pots have arrived yet, but when I do finally do the mod, I'll let you know if it works and how it sounds.

 

[Simon_Smith]

Revised drawing...

https://photos.app.goo.gl/57P36CHUXrb7UYYSA

 

[John Beef]

Cool, that looks right to me, as long as the wire colors all work out correctly. Yeah, so strange the pickups don't use the same colors.

 

[Simon_Smith]

The wire colours according to the PRS diagram...

http://www.prsguitars.com/documents/se_245_se_zach_myers__wiring_schematics.pdf

 

[Malloc]

I don’t see anything obviously functionally incorrect in the second diagram. One question: any particular reason you want the push/pull to be on the volume pots instead of the tone pots?

 

[Simon_Smith]

I don’t see anything obviously functionally incorrect in the second diagram. One question: any particular reason you want the push/pull to be on the volume pots instead of the tone pots?

Not really, I thought tone made more sense to start with, but I've seen guitars with it done either way. I think I settled on the volume pots as it's makes the wiring sightly easier (not having to stretch the pickup wires to both pots) and when playing I figured the vol pots are a touch closer to the hand if you ever wanted to switch mid song.

Are the tone pots considered the norm? I mean, it's obvious the split affects the tone, so I can see the logic there!

 

[Malloc]

They're considered the norm since you generally touch the tone less frequently while playing.

Personally I find the PRS push/pulls don't have a great feel when in push mode (slightly gritty and uneven) if you're used to riding the volume with a pinky finger.

 

[Max Dawkins]

How would you wire it if you were changing to push/pull *tone* pots? Thanks

 

[Simon_Smith]

How would you wire it if you were changing to push/pull *tone* pots? Thanks

Essentially just move the switch parts of the vol pots to the tone pots... I might draw it out at some point... But will wait until I have the switches.

 

[Max Dawkins]

Sounds good. I know this is a big ask, but when you eventually make the mod, is it ok if you perhaps do a video/walkthrough of it? I am hopefully getting the guitar on Monday and the closest I have come to tinkering with guitar electronics is re-soldering the connection of a cable using my school’s iron. I set this out as a challenge for myself but fear I may be out of my depth! Really big thanks

 

[Simon_Smith]

How would you wire it if you were changing to push/pull *tone* pots? Thanks

Like this!

https://photos.app.goo.gl/JWuzGJajuNRyEpzU9

 

[Max Dawkins]

Thanks so much!

 

[Simon_Smith]

Sounds good. I know this is a big ask, but when you eventually make the mod, is it ok if you perhaps do a video/walkthrough of it? I am hopefully getting the guitar on Monday and the closest I have come to tinkering with guitar electronics is re-soldering the connection of a cable using my school’s iron. I set this out as a challenge for myself but fear I may be out of my depth! Really big thanks

So, i've just finished rewiring my ZM as per the diagram. I was happy with the 2.2k partial split resistor for the bridge, but changed the 1.1k to a 1.5k for the neck.

More photos to follow, but this was the starting point...

https://photos.app.goo.gl/PjKHbX9wibcRQVhP7

 

[Simon_Smith]

I used some Alpha push pull pots (500k audio taper) which were a bit disappointing in that they turn very freely compared to the non push pull Alphas in there already. Advantage of these though is that there is no widening of holes and you can reuse the same knobs.

First job was to solder resistors and caps the pots and also get the treble bleeds ready. Soldering tip: use some fine sand paper to abraid the surface of the casing where your earth points will go, it really helps the solder stick. You don't need to do much, just a little bit. Also the case sucks heat away from the tip of the iron, so just be patient and wait for it to warm up.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/8B8U4yfpHjr9HJyU9

https://photos.app.goo.gl/S9YgWaA7cYvbHDxx8

https://photos.app.goo.gl/b1s18rhFiHrbURZY6