Tone & Budget

Well, the soundcheck of my Satin today proved that with fingers lifted from the strings, the guitar hums appreciably. Gotta be a wiring ground issue. With finger on the strings, little to no hum. Off to the new luthier next week to check for wiring and/or spray shielding.

I think the ground wire goes from the cavity to the bridge. Feed the wire in through the hole until it touches the bridge. (Buzz stops) then hold the wire in, finger tighten a screw into that hole, just a tiny screw, enough to hold on cavity cover - it should hold that there in place, save you money and a trip to a luthier.
 
Ditto! Nice job to GavQuinn!

Thank you, I was always interested in what we can improve to make some stuff as good as others. Some brands’ affordable ranges are better than others. I’m also competent in terms of electrical and construction engineering, so I feel ok to have a go and I ‘get’ things.

It took a long time of trial and error, but in the end, with pickups, dialling in, refretted, new nut, bridge remount, it’s all come together. Great guitar.
 
Hi, All,

From previous questions I've posted you may be wondering if a 594 Singlecut is in my future.

Well, to be brutally honest, I don't think my budget, no matter how much cash-savings could possibly occur on my part, would allow for a 594 purchase. A purchase is just out of reach, budget-wise.

Therefore, to be more realistic, I'm asking the following question:

What practical modifications have any of you made to a PRS VS2 Singlecut Standard that has improved the tone of the guitar?

For instance, what are your thoughts about replacing the S2 SC #7S pickups with 57/08s? Would any additional wiring mods be required? If so, what are they?

#7's are really great, they are from the Core line of a number of years ago and I've had some in a 2006 Singlecut. I also really like the 57/08's but I don't think there is enough of a difference between the two to justify the cost of replacing one with the other. I don't know what your budget is but if you can't afford a brand new McCarty 594, a used SC245 (Core line) made to the specs they were doing in 2013 is cheaper and REALLY CLOSE to a 594.

2013 SC245
PRS-2013_SC245RedBurst_2731.jpg
 
I think the ground wire goes from the cavity to the bridge. Feed the wire in through the hole until it touches the bridge. (Buzz stops) then hold the wire in, finger tighten a screw into that hole, just a tiny screw, enough to hold on cavity cover - it should hold that there in place, save you money and a trip to a luthier.

Thanks, the guitar was originally serviced by another tech who seemed to know what he was doing, though didn't do the job to my satisfaction. I think what you are saying is correct. The original tech had soldered a wire in place, perhaps that connection failed somewhere along the line.

My personal electronics skills are not up to snuff, otherwise I'd gladly try doing what you suggest. My thought is also considering spray shielding the pickup cavity interior, and that will require a luthier's steady hand, not mine. The luthier has over 40 years experience compared to my 8 months hobbyist experience.

I don't mind spending $30 or $40 to have the job done correctly. My only worry is that if I were to try to accomplish the job myself, I might mess up and would be worse off than before.

This is where you leave the fast-food morning McD's breakfast & coffee makers to do their job, and me, get back to business...otherwise the highlight of my day...
 
#7's are really great, they are from the Core line of a number of years ago and I've had some in a 2006 Singlecut. I also really like the 57/08's but I don't think there is enough of a difference between the two to justify the cost of replacing one with the other. I don't know what your budget is but if you can't afford a brand new McCarty 594, a used SC245 (Core line) made to the specs they were doing in 2013 is cheaper and REALLY CLOSE to a 594.

2013 SC245

Thanks, am not in need of another guitar, and would not try selling one to finance another.

Am currently looking towards replacing my computer for improved processor speed and ease of use. My late model 2015 is fast approaching the end of its AppleCare Protection Plan and although Apple now offers a month-to-month subscription for extended AppleCare, I think this may be cost-prohibitive because I don't like the idea of subscribing to too many recurring yearly paid apps.

Time will be the final deciding factor in all of this, and while the clock is ticking, my work load likely doesn't need to be "yoked" much further...
 
Well, got the guitar off to the retail store and repair tech...though when the store manager tested the guitar, it sounded relatively quiet even with loud volumes.

Not sure what to make of this. The coil-tapped modes had a high level of noise/hum, though my understanding is that even coil-tapped, the pickups are supposed to be comparatively quiet(?)

In humbucker mode (both pickups) the guitar (in the store) exhibited low noise/hum. Either coil-tap caused inordinate hum; both clip-tapped, loud hum.

In my house, with modest compressor volume, both humbuckers displayed significant hum. Coil-taps as well.

My amp is a very clean, low noise, amp. With my Antique White S2 SC, no hum/noise problems exist. Why?

Is it possible that the S2 Satin's wire ground connection is intermittent, and that might be the reason for the test results in the store, and that the coil-taps might need grounding?
 
I think the ground wire goes from the cavity to the bridge. Feed the wire in through the hole until it touches the bridge. (Buzz stops) then hold the wire in, finger tighten a screw into that hole, just a tiny screw, enough to hold on cavity cover - it should hold that there in place, save you money and a trip to a luthier.

Gav,

Just thought to tell you, my alternate repair tech checked out the S2 SC Satin and discovered a cold solder point where the ground wire contacted the bridge stud. (To the layman, a cold solder point is where the person performing the repair did not adequately heat up the surrounding metal where the solder contact was made, and when the solder was applied, a solder bead formed, rather than a more flat/smooth solder point)

This caused an improper electrical ground and the resultant hum/noise. What also occurred was that the grounding wire was previously laid vertical along the bridge stud. The new repair was this time wrapped horizontally around the bridge stud, and some of the anodized bridge stud metal was scratched so as to form a better electrical contact point.

The alternate tech charged only $30 for his work. The hum buckers don't hum, the coil-taps noticeably less so than before. Happier customer here.
 
Yes I’ve had ground wires come out of that hole that leads the wire from the control cavity to the bridge post.

€30 not too bad I guess, grounding noise is unbearable
 
Yes I’ve had ground wires come out of that hole that leads the wire from the control cavity to the bridge post.

€30 not too bad I guess, grounding noise is unbearable

$30 was a decent deal, compared to others' rates. The noise is much less noticeable, especially with the coil-taps. Before? Yikes. Now? Much milder. I don't mind that the technician collected $30, in fact, I'd steer business his way knowing that he did quality work, and also tell my previous tech what the more qualified tech did, so his work can improve as well...

Also that this tech knew why a cold solder point wasn't making electrical contact to the bridge stud, and knew how to correct it.
 
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