Advice needed. Cracks in fretboard

[stayfreejc]

Hi,

I have recently purchased a Custom 24 core model and it is a fantastic guitar. The one the thing I have noticed is that on the fretboard their are quite a few hairline cracks. They are extremely thin but some are up to 10-15mm long. It may just be a characteristic of the wood but I would not know. Most people probably would not notice them, but I notice any kind of imperfection. I own a Gibson SG and although the usual grain and imperfections are present their are no physical splits in the wood like on my PRS. I tried taking a photo, but I could not capture them on camera.

Any advice would be great as it is still under warranty so if it is a defect I can get it swapped.

Many thanks

 

[Faded]

Sounds like rosewood grain. Try to give it a good oiling and you may notice them closing back up. What you are describing is normal, but we can't be sure without pictures...and since it doesn't even show up in pictures I wouldn't worry about it.

 

[andy474x]

Sounds like rosewood grain. Try to give it a good oiling and you may notice them closing back up. What you are describing is normal, but we can't be sure without pictures...and since it doesn't even show up in pictures I wouldn't worry about it.

+1, happens to some of my guitars as well, a little lemon oil will set you straight.

 

[stayfreejc]

Thanks for the quick replies guys.

I managed to get a picture of the worst one. It's the one at the bottom on the edge of the fretboard. This is the only one that really concerned me. Do you think it looks ok?

 

[dogrocketp]

Looks like a crack in the wood to me.

 

[stayfreejc]

Looks like a crack in the wood to me.

It is definitely the same shape as the other grain but is deeper and more pronounced. I'm assuming it is just grain that has opened up. I do not no if it is normal or not though for rosewood fret boards to look like this.

 

[AP515]

Try a light rubbing with a soft cloth and lemon oil and let it set for a few minutes and then rub t off again. Then retake the photo.

Also, look at the modcat and see if it is Brazilian rosewood or Indian. the grain in some Brazilian is more coarse and will look like that.

 

[László]

Looks like grain to me, quite honestly, not a crack, but since it's under warranty, and since PRS is great about warranty stuff, why not have them take a look at it?

 

[Brad737]

Looks totally normal to me.

 

[Mikegarveyblues]

Normal.

Just deep grain that's highlighted by a close up photo and the fact the wood changes to a lighter colour near the edge.

Board looks a bit dry. Tiny amount of lemon oil / fretboard conditioner and then enjoy!

 

[stayfreejc]

Thanks guys. Seems the general consensus is that it is ok. I will get some oil on it when I next swap the strings.

 

[László]

Not even sure it really needs oil, since fretboard oil is just usually so-called "lemon oil" that is lemon scented naphtha, the same stuff your dry cleaner uses. It's just for cleaning, doesn't really do anything to change the natural grain of the wood, and shouldn't be left on for a long time.

It actually dries the wood as it evaporates. Just as your clothing doesn't stay oily when your dry cleaner uses it.

And most of the other junk people use just attracts dirt, lint, goop, and dead skin cells. Sure, it looks shiny. But a natural piece of rosewood shouldn't actually be...you know...shiny.

Rosewood is naturally oily. It will last for a thousand years and never need "oil." The whole fretboard conditioning industry is largely based on hokum and bunkum, and is a waste.

Whatever you do, don't use mineral oil, and similar stuff that actually softens the wood and makes it likely to be damaged by strings and fingernails.

The natural oils in your hands are the best fretboard conditioner money can buy. Play it and you're in business!

Here's a shot of my own 1965 SG Special, now at my brother's place (he was the owner when it was brand new). It's never been "oiled" and I'm pretty sure it's never even been so much as cleaned with lemon oil in at least 25 years. It has lived in the open most of its life (that, by the way is the original case), and for several years lived in the back of band vans in Michigan, where it spent all of its very dry winters and humid summers. So it hasn't had it easy.

Enlarge it and you'll see that its fretboard is still in great shape, and has no issues, or anything that isn't related to normal play wear.



What kept the fretboard in good shape was that it was played by my brother, myself, and much later, my kids -- 50 years of use. That fretboard will outlive all of us.

Then again, think about all the wooden stuff that lasted for about 3500 years in Tut's tomb, including wooden canes, that were never oiled... at least, not lately.

 

[AP515]

Not even sure it really needs oil, since fretboard oil is just usually so-called "lemon oil" that is lemon scented naphtha, the same stuff your dry cleaner uses. It's just for cleaning, doesn't really do anything to change the natural grain of the wood, and shouldn't be left on for a long time.

It actually dries the wood as it evaporates. Just as your clothing doesn't stay oily when your dry cleaner uses it.

And most of the other junk people use just attracts dirt, lint, goop, and dead skin cells. Sure, it looks shiny. But a natural piece of rosewood shouldn't actually be...you know...shiny.

Rosewood is naturally oily. It will last for a thousand years and never need "oil." The whole fretboard conditioning industry is largely based on hokum and bunkum, and is a waste.

Whatever you do, don't use mineral oil, and similar stuff that actually softens the wood and makes it likely to be damaged by strings and fingernails.

The natural oils in your hands are the best fretboard conditioner money can buy. Play it and you're in business!

...

I'm not sure all lemon oils are just Naphtha. I use naphtha for various things and the lemon oil I use doesn't dry like naphtha. I have a 95 CE22 that I found with a very dry board. So dry that the frets were sticking out of the edges. I took it home and oiled the board and let it set when I usually wipe it off. After a while I then polished it up and it was better. I did it a second time and the wood was just about back to normal. So, IMO, the wood does need oils to keep it from drying out. Lemon oil is a good oil to use even though the lemon scent is fake. Lastly, you should use it sparingly. A little goes a long way, and yes, your fingers provide all the oil a board needs in the places that you play a lot. The others need a little oil from time to time.

 

[László]

I'm not sure all lemon oils are just Naphtha. I use naphtha for various things and the lemon oil I use doesn't dry like naphtha. I have a 95 CE22 that I found with a very dry board. So dry that the frets were sticking out of the edges. I took it home and oiled the board and let it set when I usually wipe it off. After a while I then polished it up and it was better. I did it a second time and the wood was just about back to normal. So, IMO, the wood does need oils to keep it from drying out. Lemon oil is a good oil to use even though the lemon scent is fake. Lastly, you should use it sparingly. A little goes a long way, and yes, your fingers provide all the oil a board needs in the places that you play a lot. The others need a little oil from time to time.

Well, it's good that you found something to swell the wood to get the frets back in place.

I'm still skeptical about these conditioners. However, you and I share a taste in guitars and amps - PRS, Mesa, etc. So this is probably the only thing we will ever differ on. That's not a bad thing!

If it had been me, with sharp fret ends, I'd have sent it to the PTC to have a little work done (or to whoever my tech was), just a different kind of approach, I guess.

 

[Mikegarveyblues]

Problem with "Lemon Oil" is that it's one of those catch all phrases. Different ingredients in different ones. Stick with trustworthy brands such as PRS's cleaning kit and the Dunlop 65 Lemon Oil.

Les is right. If you play guitar regularly then the oils from your fingers and natural oils are likely enough, and certain products can damage your guitar.

I do believe there are times the wood needs some extra care though. I keep my guitars out and sometimes the environment can leave the fretboard surface looking dry, or I want to give it a good cleaned condition.

I use Dunlop 65 once a year only on my Marsden. This is more than enough. Indeed, Bob Taylor recommends using lemon oil but again, sparingly and only if needed.

 

[andy474x]

I've had a couple instances where the ebony board on my Akesson gets similar "cracks" to what the OP posted, and the lemon oil helps. I used to condition all my ebony and rosewood boards religiously, but I've cut back on that and only do it now when I feel the board is really dried out. I guess if PRS goes to such great lengths to get the wood dried just so, I probably shouldn't be pouring oil into it every few months!

 

[László]

The problem with a lot of the substances people use - and I don't claim encyclopedic knowledge on this by any means - is that many of them actually attack the integrity of the wood cells. I've played guitars where the fretboards's surfaces had been turned literally mushy by well-intentioned friends who thought they were somehow nurturing their instruments.

So I encourage a cleaning when a fretboard really needs it, and that's it.

But heck, it's just a recommendation. People have to take care of their own instruments in their own way.

 

[Ol'Lefty]

I take quite the opposite approach, especially with ebony. I fill cracks with waterthin CA glue until level. I then go a few more coats over the whole between frets space. I then use a Micro Mesh superfine pads and work more CA into all of the wood. The wood becomes infused to the point it resembles "pakka-wood" and other wood products that have been infused with a hardening preservative. The end result with the abrasive I use is a glowing and velvet appearing surface that enhances bends and accentuates hammers and vibrato. When done properly it does not flake or scar in use. It takes much longer for "divots" behind the frets to develop. Oddly enough, my FB's still accept a small ( I think appropriately so) infusion of "Bore Oil"-- I started using the specific product, "Bore-Oil" to treat my daughter's frighteningly expensive oboe- the cheap ones are PRS Private Stock- Wood Library expensive. ( really cheap ones are Bakelite and are still over $3K USD.

This is especially valuable with ebony because ebony seems to crack throughout its working life. In the 15-20 years I have done this, I have never had any kind of fretboard issue, and, in my opinion, it makes the FB a more responsive part of the whole tone production of the guitar.

Since I have no provenance here, you may want to try this on a less valuable guitar. I control where the CA (Super Glue) goes by using my bare finger to spread the drops that are applied to the top of the wood as opposed to cracks themselves. A droplet on the finger pad and spread started at center of fret space. I use a "whip-tip" for the cracks themselves. And, if you happen to have nice contrasting color in your FB, this procedure will not blur the attractive appearance.

 

[garrett]

Wouldn't hurt to send the pic to PRS or have a dealer look at it. The warranty will cover if it goes bad somewhere down the line, but if it turns out to be a defect, why wait.

I have a Madagascar rosewood board on a non PRS guitar and it is full of similar open grain, though not as long. It even has a knot with a little crack in it. I was concerned at first, but it's been fine for 12+ years now. You guys are reminding me it's way past due for a good cleaning!

 

[Rider1260]

I agree with Les for the most part depending on the storage area ( humidity ) many fret boards will need little or no oil over there lifetime.
I use ( gibson ) fretboard conditioner ( lightly ) once a year or longer as needed on my ebony and rosewood fretboards and necks.
I would send your picture to PTC to see what they think if you have any concern