Tonepros locking studs s2 mira

Bw316

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Sep 2, 2023
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I got the tonepros MSPRS model studs for my prs mira to correct some lean issues I was having with the bridge. The thing I cant understand is that the diameter of the posts is quite a bit smaller than the prs studs so there's a considerable gap when the bridge is mounted...these were the metric studs and I assumed they are the correct ones for the mira but wtf??
I'm having difficulty uploading images if anyone can help cheers
 
Metric vs Standard. S2’s use metric. Pull the stud inserts and use the metric ones.

You can put a small screw in the stud hole, then screw the stud into it. It will extract the bushing.
I have installed the metric ones that's what they are
 
you probably got the ones that are meant for Epiphones not prs. Gibson use smaller studs for their tailpiece. I made this mistake once for my singlecut soapbar. They still work fine you can just see the old markings on the bridge from the old studs.
 
And so you know the locking stud is two pieces. The top screws into the base to lock the bridge between the two pieces. You have to take the top part of the stud off, place the bridge on top of the bottom half and then thread the locking stud top on after the bridge is seated on the stud.
 
And so you know the locking stud is two pieces. The top screws into the base to lock the bridge between the two pieces. You have to take the top part of the stud off, place the bridge on top of the bottom half and then thread the locking stud top on after the bridge is seated on the stud.
I know that if you look at the pictures I've done that already I just find it odd that the studs are so much narrower so they don't fit snugly in the bridge. It's currently locked down now and tuned up but I just wondered why the tonepros studs aren't even made the same diameter as the prs ones they're designed to replace
 
And so you know the locking stud is two pieces. The top screws into the base to lock the bridge between the two pieces. You have to take the top part of the stud off, place the bridge on top of the bottom half and then thread the locking stud top on after the bridge is seated on the stud.
 
I bet the posts are the same ones that they use with the AVT2M bridge that Tonepros makes. I have an SE Akesson that uses the TP locking studs and bridge, if memory serves the posts are narrower and likewise the slots in the bridge are narrower. I’d have to check at home later to be sure.

The TP bridge is a good unit, although mildly tricky to restring, opinions vary but I’ve never thought it was unreasonably tough to deal with. I’ve always felt that the convenience is recovered by the bridge not moving during string changes, and the overall great tone.
 
I bet the posts are the same ones that they use with the AVT2M bridge that Tonepros makes. I have an SE Akesson that uses the TP locking studs and bridge, if memory serves the posts are narrower and likewise the slots in the bridge are narrower. I’d have to check at home later to be sure.

The TP bridge is a good unit, although mildly tricky to restring, opinions vary but I’ve never thought it was unreasonably tough to deal with. I’ve always felt that the convenience is recovered by the bridge not moving during string changes, and the overall great tone.

The odd thing is on the pictures it's shows the dimensions and even for their own bridge the posts aren't the same diameter as the bridge slots
 
I bet the posts are the same ones that they use with the AVT2M bridge that Tonepros makes. I have an SE Akesson that uses the TP locking studs and bridge, if memory serves the posts are narrower and likewise the slots in the bridge are narrower. I’d have to check at home later to be sure.

The TP bridge is a good unit, although mildly tricky to restring, opinions vary but I’ve never thought it was unreasonably tough to deal with. I’ve always felt that the convenience is recovered by the bridge not moving during string changes, and the overall great tone.
I might end up going for something else entirely as I think I need a whole new bridge anyway. I was thinking of the abm as I'm in the UK but I'm not sure the posts that come with that are lockable as standard. Alternatively I was looking at the schaller signum
 
Yes my apologies I don’t think I really understood what you meant but yes I can confirm this is how they are made and I’ve not noticed any tonal change at all just an added convenience when changing strings and it did correct a bit of a sitar sound that was happening on my high e string open because the tilt was corrected.
 
I had a set on an SE years ago. I don't remember the stud size, but it's a moot point isn't it? Considering the tops lock it all together.

If you want something else, my recommendation is John Mann metric studs. They are machined much more precisely and have a snug fit without extra tools.

On my One, I had the old SE one-piece bridge and now the PRS adjustable and they both made a solid connection with John's studs (i.e. the bridge doesn't fall off without strings on).
 
Do you have a way to measure the original posts and the new ones? You may be able to find the right ones using the post diameter of the stock studs. As mentioned in replies to some of your other posts. I have a set on my CU22 that I bought years ago and they are not smaller like the ones you have.
 
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