MT 15

Hey everyone! I just bought a new MT 15 on the cheap from Europe. I live in the US so now I gotta deal with the 230v / 50Hz power supply.

I already reached out to customer service to see if it’s the kind of transformer where you just move a couple wires and everything works, or if it would need to be replaced, or if I should just buy a step up voltage converter.

Has someone here already dealt with this issue?
 
It's not that it's really loud in full power, or half power, it's the taper on the volume knob. It goes from bedroom level to loud with a nudge of the knob. For some, it was too loud, or too touchy. I loved mine. However, I loved my Archon more. It is a great low volume amp, and has a better taper for more usable volume range. If price is a consideration, you really can not go wrong with the MT-15. Hands down the best bang for your buck at that price.
I tried in a store, I love the sound of the amp:rolleyes:! You are right, the lead channel has a "step" in the volume, also the minimum volume you can reach is loud (IMHO) for a pure bedroom usage... but I love it...

Being Class A would defeat the purpose of this amp. ;) (Besides, most people don't even really know what it means... and that includes apparently a lot of amp makers who say that their amps are Class A when they really aren't).
Why "Being Class A would defeat the purpose of this amp"?:)
 
Hi all. I just picked up an MT15 secondhand. The clean channel is as advertised. Pristine, loud and takes pedals well. I am however disappointed in the lead channel. I viewed numerous videos on YouTube and heard the amp in person with Tremonti himself playing through it at one of his guitar clinics. In all of those instances the gain was full, rich and punchy.

I'm playing mine through a PRS Deep 2x12 with V30s. With my Tremonti Core guitar the lead channel is very fizzy, the gain is undefined. For chords it is very muddy. With my Strat with a Suhr Thornbucker, it's slightly better, I assume due to the lower output. Could it be tubes? Cab?

For those that have replaced tubes, what did you switch to?
 
Hi all. I just picked up an MT15 secondhand. The clean channel is as advertised. Pristine, loud and takes pedals well. I am however disappointed in the lead channel. I viewed numerous videos on YouTube and heard the amp in person with Tremonti himself playing through it at one of his guitar clinics. In all of those instances the gain was full, rich and punchy.

I'm playing mine through a PRS Deep 2x12 with V30s. With my Tremonti Core guitar the lead channel is very fizzy, the gain is undefined. For chords it is very muddy. With my Strat with a Suhr Thornbucker, it's slightly better, I assume due to the lower output. Could it be tubes? Cab?

For those that have replaced tubes, what did you switch to?

I liked a new production Mullard 12ax7 in V1, and a 12at7 in the phase inverter, the Mullard was a little clearer in the top frequencies and the 12at7 instead of the stock 12ax7 tamed the gain and volume from coming on so quickly with the knob taper. That being said, I don’t know that tubes alone will get you what you’re looking for. I feel that the MT15 with ordinary V30’s can be tricky to dial in, and like you mentioned, muddy and undefined. Whereas when Mark plays it, sounds great, when I use the same settings, just doesn’t sound the same. The tricks for me have been, #1, learning to set the amp with my ears not eyes, the sweet spot on the treble control is around 2:00-3:00 where it has a very sharp onset, and keeping the bass lower, around 9:00-10:00, which is not at all where Mark sets his. #2 is cab and speakers, there are V30-ish variants that I find the amp works better with than the ordinary variety. I have a set of Eminence drivers in a PRS 2x12 that are similar to WGS Retro 30’s that I like a lot, more treble but not in a harsh way, and also I recently got Mesa 4x12 that really punches with the MT15, they use tweaked V30’s.
 
There are so many variances in electronics components it may as well be black magic. Heck, the values can drift over time. And an amp that could have been set up perfectly the day before can sound sub-optimal the next.

I'd start with mucking with the bias on the power tubes. Then swapping out the pre-amp tubes.

After that, it gets expensive unless you are handy with a multimeter and a soldering iron. Even then it's an arduous process of taking capacitors and resistors out of circuit to measure their values and compare with the spec.

What I am saying is, amps are just like guitars, they are going to sound different from one to the next. Unless Paul figures out how to do TCI treatment to them too. Now *that* would be a revolution.
 
Self-replying here:
You can indeed change the input voltage by swapping out the fuse, disconnecting one wire and connecting another. Mine is working now and I’m super happy with it

Hey everyone! I just bought a new MT 15 on the cheap from Europe. I live in the US so now I gotta deal with the 230v / 50Hz power supply.

I already reached out to customer service to see if it’s the kind of transformer where you just move a couple wires and everything works, or if it would need to be replaced, or if I should just buy a step up voltage converter.

Has someone here already dealt with this issue?
 
I realize this is a 2 year old thread but as of today Thomann (checked the website about 2 hours ago) USA sells the PRS MT15 for $505 new. They also sell their Harley Benton 1×12 Cabinet for $119 - 2×12 straight Cabinet for $205 angled $221 and 4×12 for $364. These Cabinets are 3/4" Poplar Cabinets loaded with Celestion Vintage 30's. I'm not affiliated in any way. I'm just a regular Guy who found a killer deal and I'm trying pass it on. Y'all can get the Amp an A closed back 2×12 Cabinet for $20 bucks less than the Amp by itself than anywhere over here. Hope this post helps everyone. God Bless Y'all....
 
Self-replying here:
You can indeed change the input voltage by swapping out the fuse, disconnecting one wire and connecting another. Mine is working now and I’m super happy with it

Hi Kevin. I have one of these and the label on the PT makes no sense. It currently is wired with Black (neutral) and Blue wire. What did you change to get the PT 120V? Thanks in advance, Frank
 
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