Astonishing Trem!

It;s a combo of both but the SE nut is the main offender.

Yup. The nut is hot garbage. I've replaced the nut on every SE I've had. Though, I'm really impressed by the trem on my 35th. Stays in tune perfectly, not as versatile as a Floyd though. I think of it more like an updated strat bridge.
 
Yup. The nut is hot garbage. I've replaced the nut on every SE I've had. Though, I'm really impressed by the trem on my 35th. Stays in tune perfectly, not as versatile as a Floyd though. I think of it more like an updated strat bridge.
What makes a ‘good’ nut? Is it the way it’s cut or the coefficient of friction of the material from which it’s made? The former will be down to economics and profit margins, the latter down to engineering science.
 
Great question! I think you hit all the major points. If the nut is cut properly, and the break angle is maximal, the string will lose the smallest amount of energy. That will translate to maximum sustain. Paul gave a Ted talk that is a must see in my opinion. It sums up everything necessary for the “best” transfer of energy. When manufacturing, everything has to be looked at in order to bring the product in at the best price level. Where and how can you afford to compromise cost without losing core quality values? Most of us see the SE nuts as being the weak point, but it’s an easy and cheap fix on a very high bang for the buck guitar. The fretwork on a couple of my SE’s is outstanding, and that’s where the money went. The fretwork(and nut) on every Maryland made guitar I’ve played has been outstanding. I think the S2’s are the best bang for the buck guitars available anywhere. They’re in playing rotation with my core because of their sound. Granted I haven’t played them all, but I very quietly flipped around 60 PRSi to make money and get my keepers.
 
What makes a ‘good’ nut? Is it the way it’s cut or the coefficient of friction of the material from which it’s made? The former will be down to economics and profit margins, the latter down to engineering science.

In my opinion, a good nut is mainly about material. The cut is something you can do either via machine or with a little bit of DIY knowhow. Basically, nuts made from soft, cheap material (plastic) will over time be gouged out by a string that's putting it under constant downwards pressure. Harder material (bone, tusq, even ebony) can resist it. There's also the realm of the self lubricating nut, which is basically a nut made with teflon (tusq XL). PRS SE axes dont use what I'd call a cheapo nut, but that synthetic bronze material just wont cut the mustard. Every time I switch to a Tusq or bone nut, all the little string problems go away, whether it be first fret buzz or binding pings on a trem guitar.

As dogrocket said, the fret work is where the value really is. A nut job is a simple task, and requires maybe 10 bucks and two hours of your time to replace. Fixing fretwork is a beeyotch. All my SE's generally have stellar fretwork, even the fourteen year old Singlecut is in great shape. Any fret problems I've dealt with are pretty much from climate acclimation, not because the fret installer had one too many vodka gimlets the night before. I can attest after playing and fixing so many guitars for other people, you can feel it when they just didn't give an ass rat's about the frets (I'm lookin at you Gibson).
 
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Actually, I use vaseline on my guitar nuts. It’s a trick I picked up from a graduate of the Roberto-Venn School of luthier. And I don’t think the SE nuts have brass powder in them. Shawn to the courtesy phone, please.
 
Actually, I use vaseline on my guitar nuts. It’s a trick I picked up from a graduate of the Roberto-Venn School of luthier. And I don’t think the SE nuts have brass powder in them. Shawn to the courtesy phone, please.

Might have to try that vaseline trick one of these days. As for the SE nuts, I don't think they do either. On the spec website PRS calls it synthetic bronze, but shoot...that could mean anything.
 
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