Abysmal customer service :(

[RC Mike]

If the measurements of @Simon Says are correct (and I have zero reason to doubt him), I would find a hole punch the size of that hole (well, slightly smaller actually) and pound it down further into the hole. You should be able to pound it down enough to have a new spring still sit properly in that hole. The only other thing I can think of is using the other spring hole (or were you running 5 springs?). If you were running 4 springs, you still have the center hold to use for that 4th spring. I have zero experience with setting those bad boys up, so I do not know if that is a no no with 3 springs being next to each other, but another thought! Best wishes on resolving this.

The hole punch, or whatever is used as a hole punch, size matters. (Yeah!) Like MW says, use something smaller. I’d also suggest something that’s not very hard. (Oh dear.) If it’s too stiff, it may break off in the hole. The angle at which you tap matters. (Really!?)

Using something smaller will let it fall right out of the hole when you finish. (Gulp!)

 

[tonac]

Lots of fairly straight-forward fixes have been suggested here. I'd probably go with the "buy a new brass block from John Mann" idea myself, if I could be bothered (honestly, I'd probably just move the spring as I only use three; then again I disconnect them at the claw when I want to remove tension for cleaning). But am I the only one who thinks accusing PRS of "abysmal customer service" because they aren't bending over backwards to fix an out-of-warranty trem block that has had a spring broken off in it by the owner is a little melodramatic? I'm in Canada, and when I mess up my guitars I don't call the instrument manufacturer to fix it for me; that's not the business they're in. I call my guitar tech if I have to, or I go to John Mann's Guitar Vault for things I can fix myself. If I gouge the top of my McCarty with a screwdriver, for example, I'm not going to accuse PRS Guitars of "abysmal customer service" if they say all they can do for me is a full refin in the PTC, and I'm on the hook for shipping both ways. My guitar tech can spot fix so it's hardly noticeable for a fraction of the price, but that's what he does; it's his business model. PRS is a guitar manufacturer; they are responsible to me for warranty service and parts (which is done locally through dealers as a rule). They're not responsible to fix my screw ups at a price I find acceptable.

Jimmy,
Only thing I wanted from them is advice on what I can try to fix it, since I believe that they are the experts, not come with iPhone type of fix and ask to replace everything. And what pains the most is that they are unwilling to sell the actual part that is needed to be replaced.
Cheers,

 

[Simon Says]

Jimmy,
Only thing I wanted from them is advice on what I can try to fix it, since I believe that they are the experts, not come with iPhone type of fix and ask to replace everything. And what pains the most is that they are unwilling to sell the actual part that is needed to be replaced.
Cheers,

Email @John Mann and ask him if he has actual Gen III blocks.

 

[dkilpatrick]

If it was my guitar, I would just move the spring to a different hole, replacement springs are easy to get and don’t cost a lot.
If that didn’t work out the way I wanted and the tension was off because of the different placement then I would order a replacement block and swap it. John Mann has been my go to for any parts needed that PRS doesn’t offer separately and he ships all over the world.

 

[bodia]

If it was my guitar, I would just move the spring to a different hole, replacement springs are easy to get and don’t cost a lot.
If that didn’t work out the way I wanted and the tension was off because of the different placement then I would order a replacement block and swap it. John Mann has been my go to for any parts needed that PRS doesn’t offer separately and he ships all over the world.

This

 

[Maertl513]

All the discussions about annoying experienced replies by the customer service and requesting further recommendations for alternatives lead to two things: Lost time and an unfixed problem.
More efficient and effective is: Dremel, micro metal driller with that particular diameter, and go. It's rather fun than rocket science.
Hands on!

 

[Simon Says]

All the discussions about annoying experienced replies by the customer service and requesting further recommendations for alternatives lead to two things: Lost time and an unfixed problem.
More efficient and effective is: Dremel, micro metal driller with that particular diameter, and go. It's rather fun than rocket science.
Hands on!

I'm so glad we have you

 

[tonac]

Thank you all for the recommendations. I have decided to try 3 things:
- Drill through the spring with .6mm drill bit
If it doesn't work then
- Use a 1.2mm diamond grinding bit to grind the spring
Or
- widen the hole by just a little bit so it falls out.

If all this fails, I'll call JMann and get one of his brass blocks.

I'll post the results when done...

 

[Maertl513]

I wish you a successful vibrato surgery.

 

[Moondog Wily]

Thank you all for the recommendations. I have decided to try 3 things:
- Drill through the spring with .6mm drill bit
If it doesn't work then
- Use a 1.2mm diamond grinding bit to grind the spring
Or
- widen the hole by just a little bit so it falls out.

If all this fails, I'll call JMann and get one of his brass blocks.

I'll post the results when done...

If you have a drill press, I would certainly use that as mentioned before by others. I would also use a "punch" or some other pointed object to set a depression in that spot to stop the bit from running before I start drilling! Best wishes on "The Reaming of the Vibrato" (sounds like an opera)!!!

 

[aamefford]

If you really want to save the block, after whatever removal method you attempt:
1) Braze the hole closed, grind, file, etc.
2) find brass rod from the usual suspects - MSC, McMaster Carr, Grainger. Drill out the spring hole maybe .001” under, heat the block, drop a pice of the rod in, grind, file smooth. Drill a new hole for the spring in the repaired area.
3) buy a new block from John Mann.

Regarding PTC service. They fix stuff in the way that prevents recurrence, and provides a profitable repair. It’s not always the way you want to do it. It’s not PTC’s fault, even if it is a pain that they are often not particularly helpful. They do what they do, and you can choose to accept it, or not. You have options.

 

[John F]

Take the block to a weld shop. They will place a weld rod in the welder lead and ground to the block. Next they will touch the weld rod to the tip of the spring, attaching it to the spring. Then they will put the block in a vice and pull the spring out.

 

[Steve Dombroski]

If I did this on a second hand guitar from PRS, I would take the work myself. PRS and their customer service team have ALWAYS gone above and beyond for me. I've had some serious work done on guitars...fretboards replaced, fretboard peeling taken care of, refins done, many electronics overhauls...I may be a Pulse Artist, but I do not get access to those things because of my status. Many of the major things were done BEFORE I became an artist.

 

[John F]

Cheapest easiest repair, drill a new hole next to the stuck spring hole and live with it.

 

[deathworlder]

How much grip do you reckon you'll need to pull it out?
JB Weld a sacrificial piece, and rotate/pull it out?

 

[John F]

I pulled all springs out of 2 guitars when blocking trems, the spring length entering the block has a kink in it to keep it from popping out. The springs are really tight in there. I unhooked the end from the claw, then carefully rotated the spring maybe 15 degrees in an arc back and forth around the hole above the block while forcefully pulling upward. This walked the spring out until the kink cleared, then the rest of the shank slid out easily. Putting the spring back required a lot of force which is risky and might damage the knife edges and v-notched screws.

Always remove the strings and unhook the springs from the claw and then disengage the knife edges allowing the block to rest on the screw heads before working the springs out of or into the block.

 

[deathworlder]

I pulled all springs out of 2 guitars when blocking trems, the spring length entering the block has a kink in it to keep it from popping out. The springs are really tight in there. I unhooked the end from the claw, then carefully rotated the spring maybe 15 degrees in an arc back and forth around the hole above the block while forcefully pulling upward. This walked the spring out until the kink cleared, then the rest of the shank slid out easily. Putting the spring back required a lot of force which is risky and might damage the knife edges and v-notched screws.

Always remove the strings and unhook the springs from the claw and then disengage the knife edges allowing the block to rest on the screw heads before working the springs out of or into the block.

Good advice here...
You can see how tight and bound up the spring is, by the marks left on the block from the spring.

 

[RickP]

Clamp it in a drill press and drill it out.

 

[Fro]

The best option by far is to just drive the spring all the way down into the hole. Any attempts at drilling will ruin that block. Brass is softer than spring steel. Your bit will just slide over and you’ll be drilling the block, enlarging the hole.
If I couldn’t drive it down far enough I’d buy the MannMade block replacement and swap it out myself.

 

[Alnus Rubra]

I wish you a successful vibrator surgery.

What is a thread without a TWSS.

Hope you find a satisfactory solution.