What did I do wrong (Mannmade bridge)?

[mrut]

I decided to upgrade the bridge on my PRS SE DGT and ordered one (all nickel) from John. I followed the instructions to a tee. Drilling out the holes as instructed for the new screws. Watched his video on how to install using the 2.5mm wrench to set the screw height. Problem is, using the new screws, the bridge was binding. It would not pivot properly. Also, the trem arm side of the brass block barley clears the body cavity. I didn't notice if the SE bridge does this before removing.

I decided to try putting the original SE screws in. They seemed to be a bit smaller maybe. The bridge behaved better, and I was able to keep the bridge flat against the body while adjusting the screw height. I strung it up and now the trem doesn't return to original position. It makes a small click sound when you try to use it. It feels like it might be binding just a hair. Not sure. Probably something I did incorrectly but I did read and reread the instructions and followed them faithfully. Maybe I got the one SE where the holes were now perfectly aligned and won't work with the aftermarket bridge.

 

[Bowtiefanatc]

Photos would help. Hope you can get it sorted out.

 

[John F]

I replaced my SE bridge with the Mann a few days ago. Did you lift up the bridge after strings and springs to put the bridge in the v-grove of the pivot screws?

 

[mrut]

Yes. They are in the screw slots.

 

[Tedder]

Do all of the screws look to be straight and 90 degrees compared to the surface of the guitar, or is one or more screws off? If they are not perfectly 90 degrees, that could cause some binding.

 

[John F]

My original SE SAS pivot screws had v-grooves that were poorly cut. They were not clean v or round grooves to pivot on as they had metal of irregular surface in the groove and below the round head of the screw. Plus they were not straight from screw tip to screw head. I noticed this when screwing them out as they wobbled when rotating. Several were bent and therefore did not share centers along the same plane from all 6 screws. That is why my trem would not return to pitch.

I replaced the whole bridge with a John Mann brass bridge kit. The new Mann pivot screws were turned from bar stock in a metal lathe. The v-grooves are beautiful, the shafts are perfectly straight, and the undersides of the round head screw are flat. The new bridge operates smooth and the tone greatly improved from the swap to brass.

John Mann’s Guitar Vault sells his set of machined SE pivot screws for $25 for a set of 6. I suggest every SE owner consider a pivot screw upgrade, it is definitely worth it.

MannMade USA SE Mounting Screw Set - Nickel

Sales and service of world class guitars, amps and parts. PRS Guitars Signature Dealer. MannMade USA parts

www.johnmannsguitarvault.com

To the OP: put the Mann screws back in without the block and check they are in-line straight with a straight edge. Then reinstall the block with only the 2 outside screws and put the block pivot into the v-groove and check for alignment. If it operates freely, install the remaining screws one at a time to recheck alignment. If the screw holes are out of line, the offending holes will have to be plugged and re-drilled.

The bridge kit came with a card referencing a Mann video showing installation. Watch that too. Good luck

 

[greyhatninja]

My original SE SAS pivot screws had v-grooves that were poorly cut. They were not clean v or round grooves to pivot on as they had metal of irregular surface in the groove and below the round head of the screw. Plus they were not straight from screw tip to screw head. I noticed this when screwing them out as they wobbled when rotating. Several were bent and therefore did not share centers along the same plane from all 6 screws. That is why my trem would not return to pitch.

I replaced the whole bridge with a John Mann brass bridge kit. The new Mann pivot screws were turned from bar stock in a metal lathe. The v-grooves are beautiful, the shafts are perfectly straight, and the undersides of the round head screw are flat. The new bridge operates smooth and the tone greatly improved from the swap to brass.

John Mann’s Guitar Vault sells his set of machined SE pivot screws for $25 for a set of 6. I suggest every SE owner consider a pivot screw upgrade, it is definitely worth it.

MannMade USA SE Mounting Screw Set - Nickel

Sales and service of world class guitars, amps and parts. PRS Guitars Signature Dealer. MannMade USA parts

www.johnmannsguitarvault.com

To the OP: put the Mann screws back in without the block and check they are in-line straight with a straight edge. Then reinstall the block with only the 2 outside screws and put the block pivot into the v-groove and check for alignment. If it operates freely, install the remaining screws one at a time to recheck alignment. If the screw holes are out of line, the offending holes will have to be plugged and re-drilled.

The bridge kit came with a card referencing a Mann video showing installation. Watch that too. Good luck

Which mann bridge did you order. Do you do any other upgrades on the SE SAS? Like pickup swap or locking tuners? I have one on order and would like to minimally do some more electronic switching options. Was thinking about the bridge replacement too. And eventually either the American 85/15 set or maybe a 58/15 or 57/08, but im not sure how each of those options might sound.

 

[mrut]

I put some prs locking tuners on it. They work fine. Replaced the pots with prs usa pots. Everything else is stock.

 

[John F]

Which mann bridge did you order. Do you do any other upgrades on the SE SAS? Like pickup swap or locking tuners? I have one on order and would like to minimally do some more electronic switching options. Was thinking about the bridge replacement too. And eventually either the American 85/15 set or maybe a 58/15 or 57/08, but im not sure how each of those options might sound.

I replaced the stock SE SAS bridge with:

PRS Guitars® Tremolo Bridge - Nickel - MannMade USA

Precision Machined, Six Hole Mount, 2 piece all brass Tremolo bridge, Direct retrofit for PRS Guitars®, 2 and 1/16" Spacing, Push-In Tremolo Arm - Nickel

www.johnmannsguitarvault.com

I replaced the stock SE SAS tuners with:

PRS SE Locking Tuners, Chrome

Upgrade your current stock SE tuning machines with these direct replacement locking tuners. Change them out in a snap! *Direct replacement for PRS-Designed SE Tuners. Vintage Style tuners have a different mounting screw footprint.

us.prsaccessories.com

Pickups are original. PRS doesn’t sell 85/15 pickups, you have to buy them used or buy a guitar with them to pull them out of.

I replaced the 3 position switch with a Freeway 6 position switch:

Free-Way Pickup Switch - StewMac

Guitar gearshift! Unique 6-position toggle switch broadens tonal options.

www.stewmac.com

I replaced both pots with Bourns, the tone pot has a push-push switch instead of push-pull:
Volume pot: PDB181-GTR01-504A2‎ https://www.bourns.com/docs/product-datasheets/PDB181-GTR.pdf

Tone pot: ‎PDB185-GTR01-504A2‎ https://www.bourns.com/docs/product-datasheets/PDB185-GTR.pdf

I replaced the stock knobs with PRS Lampshade:

Lampshade Knobs

PRS designed lampshade knobs. Set of two per package. Fits all US-made models. Available in Black and Amber.

us.prsaccessories.com

I added an additional 1.1k resistor to split the bridge coil.

 

[Bowtiefanatc]

85/15’s are MORE than plentiful on reverb.

Good call on the resistors for splits too.

It says it fits pre-2017 Cores, they did start doing SEs in Indonesia within the past few years vs South Korea so that could be a possible issue as well.

 

[greyhatninja]

I replaced the stock SE SAS bridge with:

PRS Guitars® Tremolo Bridge - Nickel - MannMade USA

Precision Machined, Six Hole Mount, 2 piece all brass Tremolo bridge, Direct retrofit for PRS Guitars®, 2 and 1/16" Spacing, Push-In Tremolo Arm - Nickel

www.johnmannsguitarvault.com

I replaced the stock SE SAS tuners with:

PRS SE Locking Tuners, Chrome

Upgrade your current stock SE tuning machines with these direct replacement locking tuners. Change them out in a snap! *Direct replacement for PRS-Designed SE Tuners. Vintage Style tuners have a different mounting screw footprint.

us.prsaccessories.com

Pickups are original. PRS doesn’t sell 85/15 pickups, you have to buy them used or buy a guitar with them to pull them out of.

I replaced the 3 position switch with a Freeway 6 position switch:

Free-Way Pickup Switch - StewMac

Guitar gearshift! Unique 6-position toggle switch broadens tonal options.

www.stewmac.com

I replaced both pots with Bourns, the tone pot has a push-push switch instead of push-pull:
Volume pot: PDB181-GTR01-504A2‎ https://www.bourns.com/docs/product-datasheets/PDB181-GTR.pdf

Tone pot: ‎PDB185-GTR01-504A2‎ https://www.bourns.com/docs/product-datasheets/PDB185-GTR.pdf

I replaced the stock knobs with PRS Lampshade:

Lampshade Knobs

PRS designed lampshade knobs. Set of two per package. Fits all US-made models. Available in Black and Amber.

us.prsaccessories.com

I added an additional 1.1k resistor to split the bridge coil.

I think this is pretty much what I’d like to do. How is it wired now as far as pickup combinations? Also, I don’t understand the purpose of that resistor, can the bridge not be split without that resistor?

 

[John F]

I think this is pretty much what I’d like to do. How is it wired now as far as pickup combinations? Also, I don’t understand the purpose of that resistor, can the bridge not be split without that resistor?

North and south pole of a humbucker are wired in series. One end tied to ground, the other tied to the output jack throuh the volume pot. The mid point of the north and south pole of a humbucker can be tied to ground with a switch to make a single coil out of the humbucker, but the volume would be low. Tying that mid point to a 1.1k resistor, with the other side of of the resistor tied to ground through a switch places the resistor in parallel with the coil you want to remove. That mostly removes the coil, but leaves some of it active to limit the volume loss of the coil you want to keep, and it gives you some noise cancellation too. That method is used by PRS to split the neck coil. I duplicated that method to split the bridge coil by adding another 1.1k to another switch contact tied to ground.

Each humbucker can be split, the middle pickup can be added to all pickup combinations.

 

[gush]

Don't use guitar till you get this figured out.

That clicking sound could be trem slipping in and out of groove on fulcrum screws.

If that's happening you could easily damage stuff.

 

[Birdsofprey]

Easy fix, cont John!