SE Paul's or SE Custom 24-08?

[kongk]

Hi there,

After learning how to play acoustic 35 years ago, and been noodling very occasionally on/off since, and COVID-19 came. So, I spent home time learning to play electrics. I went out and bought an SSH Squier Bullet. Soon, I bought a Gibson Les Paul Classic Custom Light. I know my skills really don't justify a $1900 guitar, but I indulged a bit. I just learned about PRS from my musician friend, and, as an engineer, I found myself intrigued by TCI pickups and PRS headstock design.

The models that interest me are SE Paul's or the new SE Custom 24-08. From the demos, I like the TCI switches. There are a couple of differences between SE Paul's and SE Custom 24-08 that makes choosing one a dilemma for me. I only have a budget for one. I'd like to ask for some opinion here, and would appreciate comments and feedbacks.

My electric skill level is still basic (comfortable with Fender Play Level 2, but haven't started level 3 yet). Here are the differences that I'd like to ask for comments on:

1. Fixed bridge on SE Paul's vs Tremolo bridge on SE24-08: I've never used a trem. I don't have a trem arm for my Squier. I know heavy use can detune the strings, and tuning stability is fairly important to me. So, is there a downside for having a trem and not using it? Having one gives me an option to use it later. Also, Paul's SE can be intonated by only 2 screws to laterally move the bridge on low E and high E, and strings can't be intonated individually. Is that a big deal? Would the floating trem bridge kill tuning stability?

2. Wide Thin neck on SE24-08 vs Wide Fat neck on Paul's SE: I've noodled on Paul's SE a little, and I think the neck is a little too chunky, but not that much so. I can play modern C neck on Squier and Gibson slim taper comfortably. Which neck would fit me better given my comfort level with the 2 necks on guitars that I have. I haven't had a chance to try out the PRS wide thin neck.

3. The colors: I think I'd go with vintage sunburst on SE24-08 (I really dislike the green) and either Aqua or Fire Red on Paul's SE.

4. Do I need to upgrade the tuners? I'm obsessed with locking tuners and how easy they are to string-up and tune. From youtube reviews, it seems like the major complaints for Paul's SE is the tuner quality. I'd assume SE24-08 would probably have similar quality tuners.

I'd love to hear your thoughts and experiences. Thanks!

 

[dogrocketp]

I’m very much a fan of 24 fret guitars, and the Se CU 24-08. I have a 2015 SE CU 24, which has survived a number of gigs. I also have locking tuners on all my guitars, except one 1930’s style archtop. Regardless of which guitar you get, I would recommend a new nut professionally installed by a real luthier, and locking tuners. The necks will actually feel different from what you currently have. The curve of the fingerboard will not be as curved as your Fender, or as flat as your Gibson. Either neck should be comfortable. The tremolo, when properly set up with a good nut and locking tuners, is a thing of beauty. I use mine and prefer my PRS that have it. One guitar isn’t necessarily better than the other. I say get the 24 first, it’s the gateway drug to PRS. Go back and get the Paul’s guitar later. One is not enough.

 

[kongk]

I’m very much a fan of 24 fret guitars, and the Se CU 24-08. I have a 2015 SE CU 24, which has survived a number of gigs. I also have locking tuners on all my guitars, except one 1930’s style archtop. Regardless of which guitar you get, I would recommend a new nut professionally installed by a real luthier, and locking tuners. The necks will actually feel different from what you currently have. The curve of the fingerboard will not be as curved as your Fender, or as flat as your Gibson. Either neck should be comfortable. The tremolo, when properly set up with a good nut and locking tuners, is a thing of beauty. I use mine and prefer my PRS that have it. One guitar isn’t necessarily better than the other. I say get the 24 first, it’s the gateway drug to PRS. Go back and get the Paul’s guitar later. One is not enough.

Hi dogrocketp,

Thanks for the recommendations. The nice thing is that the PRS dealer here already got SE 24-08 in stock. Quite an amazing feat by PRS. I have never played a 24-fret before, but for some solos I'm trying to learn, it's amazing that just one additional fret (22nd) gave a lot more "availability" on the high notes than 21 frets. I'd imagine 24 frets would give me even more room.

Unfortunately, I don't live in the US, so it seems like the one who'll be performing "a real luthier" job would be me. I've taken my Squier to a "top-10 in the country" luthier for setup, and the result came back disappointing. He leveled the frets, but didn't crown them. Some frets still buzz when played without an amp, and he argued they don't buzz because when plugged into an amp, you don't hear the buzz. He installed a new graphtech nut, but then filed the slots at angles so the string spacings were off, while he could've sanded the bottom to lower the string height instead. Since then, I've watched countless Youtube videos on how to do setup and got some guitar setup equipment. I have CNC'd a bone compensated nut myself, and just re-fretted my Squier using Fender's 6105 narrow-tall frets.

 

[dogrocketp]

Sorry to hear you’re somewhere without a qualified tech. I’d watch every video on installing a nut that is available. My luthier used to work at the factory, is a Roberto-Venn Luther I’ve school graduate and thinks the nut is the most important part. Out of curiosity, what country are you in?

 

[Draconomics]

Hi dogrocketp,

Thanks for the recommendations. The nice thing is that the PRS dealer here already got SE 24-08 in stock. Quite an amazing feat by PRS. I have never played a 24-fret before, but for some solos I'm trying to learn, it's amazing that just one additional fret (22nd) gave a lot more "availability" on the high notes than 21 frets. I'd imagine 24 frets would give me even more room.

Unfortunately, I don't live in the US, so it seems like the one who'll be performing "a real luthier" job would be me. I've taken my Squier to a "top-10 in the country" luthier for setup, and the result came back disappointing. He leveled the frets, but didn't crown them. Some frets still buzz when played without an amp, and he argued they don't buzz because when plugged into an amp, you don't hear the buzz. He installed a new graphtech nut, but then filed the slots at angles so the string spacings were off, while he could've sanded the bottom to lower the string height instead. Since then, I've watched countless Youtube videos on how to do setup and got some guitar setup equipment. I have CNC'd a bone compensated nut myself, and just re-fretted my Squier using Fender's 6105 narrow-tall frets.

Just wanted to chime in, I love the Pauls SE, its a majestic guitar. That said, The 24-08, which is kinda identical to the 35th Ani from last year and I love it, has more versatility and a thinner, faster feeling neck. Between the two, I'd vote 24-08.

BTW, that "luthier" you took your Squier too is a numpty. There will always be a tiny amount of buzz (its metal on metal, always going to happen) but if you can hear it acoustically, you will hear it in the amp and you'll feel in in your fingers. Nut slots filed at angles is inexcusable.

As to the nut, its not a crazy difficult job, maybe just a bit tedious. The keys are patience, give yourself ample time to work on the nut, have an idea what string gauge you want to play primarily, and use proper tools. You don't need Stew-Mac patented Wallet Drainer files, just some simple nut files is all so long as you plan on doing jobs like this once in a blue moon. If I can do it, and I'm some bumpkin from NoCal, anyone can file and install a nut. To me, the nut and the truss rod are the most important parts to a guitar. If those are in the toilet, the whole thing is in there too.

 

[kongk]

Sorry to hear you’re somewhere without a qualified tech. I’d watch every video on installing a nut that is available. My luthier used to work at the factory, is a Roberto-Venn Luther I’ve school graduate and thinks the nut is the most important part. Out of curiosity, what country are you in?

It's a general problem with poor countries. Some "non-glorious" luxury labor jobs are heavily underpaid compared to more "luxury" jobs.

A luthier set the guitar up for me for USD20. If he went out and gig for a night (pre-COVID-19, of course), he'd probably make > USD300 when tips are added. So, it's easy to guess how well a job he'd do.

There are some US-educated luthiers here as well, but since they're rare and rich people with guitars far outnumber good luthiers, the wait time is like 4+ months and I didn't want to wait that long.

I know of a European guy who'd be restoring a billionaire grandpa's violin. He went to visit the owner and outlined the plans and said the restoration would take 8 months. I dare not to guess how much he'd charge for that restoration job.

 

[kongk]

Just wanted to chime in, I love the Pauls SE, its a majestic guitar. That said, The 24-08, which is kinda identical to the 35th Ani from last year and I love it, has more versatility and a thinner, faster feeling neck. Between the two, I'd vote 24-08.

BTW, that "luthier" you took your Squier too is a numpty. There will always be a tiny amount of buzz (its metal on metal, always going to happen) but if you can hear it acoustically, you will hear it in the amp and you'll feel in in your fingers. Nut slots filed at angles is inexcusable.

As to the nut, its not a crazy difficult job, maybe just a bit tedious. The keys are patience, give yourself ample time to work on the nut, have an idea what string gauge you want to play primarily, and use proper tools. You don't need Stew-Mac patented Wallet Drainer files, just some simple nut files is all so long as you plan on doing jobs like this once in a blue moon. If I can do it, and I'm some bumpkin from NoCal, anyone can file and install a nut. To me, the nut and the truss rod are the most important parts to a guitar. If those are in the toilet, the whole thing is in there too.

Thanks for your suggestion on the PRS SE model. I'm leaning towards SE24-08 as well. I may sacrifice a bit of tuning stability (I don't think I'll use trem much), for thinner neck and lighter body. Both colors are now in stock. The import duties here are on the buyer's side. For Gibson, Fender, PRS, G&L, Ibanez, Taylor, Martin, and a few other brands I've found, the price here is essentially the same price you see at Sweetwater + my country's sales tax.

About the nut, I agree. It requires patience. I have done several myself already. The thing that sweat me the most is the old nut removal. I heat it up to decompose the CA glue and use fret nipper to grip and rock it slightly to begin. Once the nut came out clean, raw material CNC first pass + additional filing to fit is ok for me. I have a lot of blank bone (bleached and unbleached) and Corian. If I have to make a compensated nut (ala Music Man or earvana), I'd have to to use Corian as I couldn't get a bone piece thick enough to have the compensation shelf overhang.

As for diamond files, MusicNomad is going to have a set coming out next month ( https://www.sweetwater.com/store/search.php?s=musicnomad+nut+file ) for $15/piece.

 

[ericweasel]

Somehow, I've ended up with one of each...

 

[bodia]

Somehow, I've ended up with one of each...

Nice!

 

[Alan Jurgens]

I think you will be happy with either choice. I have a 24-08, Paul’s and 594. Which have three different necks. I have found that the tone is so different with them that I’m good with adjusting hand position and it’s not a big deal. The Paul’s guitar is the most unique in comparison to the other brand guitars that I have. 24-08 is closest to my standard 61 sg and 594 to my Les Paul. The PRSi sound better in both cases by a lot. More depth and texture. I still like the Gibsons but they don’t get played nearly as much.

 

[aphantomvaper]

Somehow, I've ended up with one of each...

The force is strong in this one...good deal! Same color?