SE Akesson vs Zack Myers hollow body?

[xjbebop]

I have an Akesson that I really like...but don't really love...
Very curious about the ZM model, but haven't seen one in person yet.
Anybody able to give a comparison?

 

[CantankerousCarl]

xkbebop - I have both, and there is definitely alot of overlap between them - so if you don't love your Akesson, the new ZM is not likely to blow you back like Marty McFly anytime soon.

The notes on the ZM bloom/swell more (I guess that the semi-hollowness) and you get some of that acoustic-ness to the initial attack of notes so at first it sounds a bit more defined. My ZM is also one of my most sustain-ey guitars, hands-down.

The Akesson has a more rounded sound, most noticeable on the neck pup, and sounds closer to what one could generalize as a traditional LP type of sound. I like the sound of my Akesson better than any solid LP type guitar I ever had, including some actual LPs in the past, as well as some newer SE 245s and Bernies.

I think the SE 245 pickups in general, while not super duper hot, do sound a bit compressed.

If I had to keep just one, it would be the ZM, as I think it shines brighter clean or with low to moderate dirt. Plus I dig the sort-of unfinished neck feel.

 

[xjbebop]

Thanks for the reply! There are a lot of things I really do like about the Akesson, but I think I might have just got a problem child...
Likes:
finish; feels very smooth/rounded all over; control layout; sound/tone is very clear; gets an awesome 'wah' sound w/ both pups on and the bridge tone rolled all the way off; the dark birds look great!
Dislikes:
stock knobs brittle...finally replaced them w different knobs; I thought the adjustable bridge would be great, but then I had to make a custom tool to adjust it, and it still doesn't want to intonate well; every time a take it out to play, something needs work- intonation, 3-way switch cutting out, etc...
I'm quite handy at set-ups and repairs, but this particular guitar just fights me every time. I'm afraid it's going to get traded in soon and I thought a ZM might be a good replacement.
So I was curious about similarities/differences between the two. It seems quite clear that the ZM is a smash hit!

 

[blaren]

Wow xjbebop...did you get the Akesson new? What year is it? It shouldn't be giving you all those problems. Or even a few of them.
You say the stock knobs were "brittle"? You mean they cracked or shattered or crumbled and fell apart?
I have never heard about the brittle PRS knobs before.
The switch on my Tremonti SE Custom has some issues but I sweat like a pig and when I'm done a set EVERYTHING is gross and soaked. When I pick up the Tremonti after it's been sitting unplayed for a day or two, switching to the neck pup is problematic. It'll usually be muted until I cycle back and forth a few times with the switch and then it comes back to life.
I don't know if thaqts because of me or just the switch. I think it's the switch cause fluids don't get IN there and I'm pretty sure it started happening even before I took it to any super hot and wet stages. The intonation issue youre having...that's odd.
Do you mean tuning or intonation? What gauge strings are you using?
I have no experience with that model but I'll assume that like the other SE models it came strung with .009"s? Did you put bigger strings on it? If so and if you're experiencing tuning issues and not intonation (oopsies...you said that youre quite handy at set-ups and repairs so you clearly know the difference between tuning and intonation..sorry), just take a nutfile, torch tip cleaners or folded emery cloth and widen those nutslots a bit. NO NEED to swap the nuts!!!!!!!!!!!!

If it's intonation that keeps going wonky...uhhh...so is the bridge/saddles moving? Are you setting the intonation with NEW strings of the same gauge youre playing? Don't forget, used/worn strings can/will often be hard or impossible to intonate. Well..to a degree anyway.

But ALL of the symptoms you're describing will be no different on the next SE whether it's a ZM or other model. They will have the same nut (if it's a tuning/binding issue and not intonation) and so the same potential problems. The switches will be exactly the same if it's the same year. And clearly the SE switches leave something to be desired. ...
My point is that going from one Se to another isn't gonna remedy ANY of the issues you're having.
The guitars (if we're talking about the ZM) will have different voices of course but everything else will be the same or similar. I haven't looked at both models' bridges...I assume they are different so MAYBE your intonation issues will be different but I doubt it.
I've never heard about the Akesson being any different ..better or worse... as far as intonation goes.
It sounds/seems like this Akesson is maybe a lemon. If not, I'd say that going to a different SE will NOT be any different.

How do you like the feel of the Akesson? How do you like the neck carve? If you decide to go with a different SC SE (that isn't a HB) with the same scale and carve...it's gonna be essentially the same guitar. I don't think you will see or feel or hear much difference.
Electronics (switch) will be the same. Bridge will be the same. Nut..SAME....tuners probably the same...pups probably SE245s....

Now that you've replaced the crumbling knobs, have made the custom intonation tool and assuming you have swapped the switch.... it must be fixed or a lot better now? If so...you're GOOD.
If not...I would guess that buying any other SE is going to have all the SAME issues because they all use the same parts...relatively speaking of course...a stop tailpiece SE isn't gonna have the same bridge as a trem model but... switches, nuts, knobs, pots, often pups....all the SAME. I don't think you are going to cure any of the problems you have (fixed) on the Akesson by going with a different SE.
Different tones, feels, colors, shapes yes but....

Good luck

 

[CantankerousCarl]

xkbebop - I was at war with the Akesson's stock TonePros AVT-II bridge for quite some time. I tried to find a flat 12mm wrench but could not locate anything flat enough. If you email [email protected] they will actually send you an adjustment tool and allen wrench free of charge. I had my kit within a week of my second email request (I think my first email disappeared into the nether). I also have the Grover 406C mini-rotomatic tuning machines installed on my Akesson. Overall she is pretty darn stable. But I still hate the bridge.

I have had a few SEs where the 3-way toggle went a bit wonky, that is an easy fix.

I'm not a huge fan of the tophats, and I think whoever had my Akesson before me replaced the knobs with Gibby tophats anyway, so I cannot speak to that, but I do know that they are indeed different than the other SE knobs. I asked Matt King & co @ the PTC about getting a new set and they do not stock those generally. Might look good with lampshades though...

With GC clearing out the Akessons, the used prices have taken a dive across the board (they are retailing for about $300 or less used - which is an amazing deal) so you won't get alot trade or private sale. I would say get the adjustment tool and see if you can get it set right, then check the nut and everything like blaren suggested. The other items are relatively simple and cheap fixes, so if you can get her stable, you will always have a solid backup guitar even if a ZM or other axe catches your fancy.

FWIW the PTC told me that the standard SE non-adjustable bridge and pins will fit into the existing holes.

Let us know how you make out!

 

[xjbebop]

wow...thanks for the lengthy replies...
fwiw...
This is my 7th (?) SE model, so I'm somewhat familiar with them. I looked at 3 different Akessons before I chose this one, and all 3 had the edges of the control knobs breaking off. Just a bad batch of knobs I presume.
I found some old amp knobs that look pretty cool on this guitar, so no big deal.
The nut on most of the SE's I've had was the 'weak' point. I don't run out and replace them, I just use a little lube and 20 seconds with a nail file to round off the sharp corners, and good to go.
The switch was cutting out a while back, so I pulled it out and cleaned it, now it's good... no big deal.
The bridge requires a special tool to adjust the height and 'clamp' screws on top (not the intonation), so I made one that works well... no big deal.
I've tried a few sets of different strings on it, adjusted pup height and so on... no big deal.
Mrs. Bebop loves to bring used guitars home, so I've had lot's of practice with basic repairs and set ups over the years...

IF this was my only guitar and/or my FAVORITE guitar, I would make it work. But it's neither... I have 3 USA PRS guitars now and plenty of other make/models to play with.
I bought this because I liked how it looked and sounded in the store, and I thought I wanted a LP/single cut style guitar at the time (even though we've got plenty of those...), but the truth is I prefer double cut guitars...
...except for my Tele's.... I -love- my teles....

So every time I break this one out to play, it gets fussy on me. And as much as I wanted to love this guitar, we just haven't bonded. I've already had an offer of $300 for it, which isn't much less than I paid for it new a year ago (we never pay full price...there are always deals to be had), so it will go to a new home and help pay for the 10 top DGT I just got, or the other 'core' model I might bring home this weekend... :biggrin:

Bottom line- I think the SE Akesson is a killer guitar, I'm just not bonding with the one I picked.

Please feel free to add to this thread, as it might help someone else out there