PRS Aluminum Stoptail VS. MannMade 2300

[nilsoac]

Ok. Just one bit of advice. Instead of drilling a guitar to (not sure if you did, may have been someone else) have the longer studs have ground down. We all can find someone to do that.

Ha why didn't I think of that

“I am a bit puzzled/disappointed by the weird brass saddle though. For that price, I would expect perfect saddles.” Do you mean the PRS one I show in the photo?

The one I show in my previous post (last two pics)

 

[Andrew Paul]

Yes. I see now! That’s strange

 

[Black Plaid]

If there were an option, I'd vote for the 1 piece with brass inserts, here's the reasons why:

1. Fewer pieces = less potential problems
2. Fewer pieces = less potential for interfaces between elements taking energy (and thus sustain) out of the system
3. Brass likely colors the frequency response to sound "nicer" in a musical context.

 

[nilsoac]

If there were an option, I'd vote for the 1 piece with brass inserts, here's the reasons why:

1. Fewer pieces = less potential problems
2. Fewer pieces = less potential for interfaces between elements taking energy (and thus sustain) out of the system
3. Brass likely colors the frequency response to sound "nicer" in a musical context.

I'm sure that can be a great option on USA models because they are made to perfection, but if I am to judge based on my experience with my SE, I'd take an intonatable bridge any day. In my case it was quite badly set up, and I needed all the travel space of the saddles to get the 12th fret harmonics in tune.

 

[Black Plaid]

I'm sure that can be a great option on USA models because they are made to perfection, but if I am to judge based on my experience with my SE, I'd take an intonatable bridge any day. In my case it was quite badly set up, and I needed all the travel space of the saddles to get the 12th fret harmonics in tune.

Ah, that makes sense, I didn't see that requirement in the poll. =)

Looking at some of the images you have shown, I am wary that there may be a problem with the set of strings used to intonate.

Next time you change strings, I would recommend double checking the intonation.

 

[nilsoac]

“I am a bit puzzled/disappointed by the weird brass saddle though. For that price, I would expect perfect saddles.” Do you mean the PRS one I show in the photo?

No, I meant the ones I from my MannMade 2300 bridge I posted above

I've emailed John Mann about this issue a few weeks ago, but he hasn't replied back so far.

Looking at some of the images you have shown, I am wary that there may be a problem with the set of strings used to intonate.

Next time you change strings, I would recommend double checking the intonation.

What seems to be the problem? I changed the strings to a brand new set of Ernie Ball just a few days before taking the picture.

 

[Ironwolf]

No, I meant the ones I from my MannMade 2300 bridge I posted above

I've emailed John Mann about this issue a few weeks ago, but he hasn't replied back so far.

I just now looked more closely at your photo, I agree with you that saddle does not belong, it is an oddball. It even looks like it's raising the action of that particular string not matching the fretboard radius.
I'm absolutely certain John will send you a new saddle for free.
He was going through a upgrade transition A few years ago, how old is that particular bridge, might've been one saddle left over from the older model.?

Another trick I learned for setting up new bridges is to set the saddles up in the pattern of the descending stair steps identical to the non-adjustable pattern. That is the theoretical starting point. Intonation comes very quickly when you use that pattern as the beginning point. Additionally I measure to get the high E the 25.5 inch mark the B and G are then longer ...... Your saddles seem somewhat random a good functioning guitar should have a very close to stair step pattern, but each guitar needs what it needs. Keep working you'll get it.
Cheers

 

[nilsoac]

I just now looked more closely at your photo, I agree with you that saddle does not belong, it is an oddball. It even looks like it's raising the action of that particular string not matching the fretboard radius.
I'm absolutely certain John will send you a new saddle for free.

Thanks. I've emailed John again, and he did offer to send replacement saddles indeed

Another trick I learned for setting up new bridges is to set the saddles up in the pattern of the descending stair steps identical to the non-adjustable pattern. That is the theoretical starting point. Intonation comes very quickly when you use that pattern as the beginning point. Additionally I measure to get the high E the 25.5 inch mark the B and G are then longer ...... Your saddles seem somewhat random a good functioning guitar should have a very close to stair step pattern, but each guitar needs what it needs. Keep working you'll get it.
Cheers

You're right that a "staircase pattern" would make the most sense, but the intonation has actually been done at my local guitar shop, not by me. And I've checked that the 12th fret harmonics are all within 1Hz of their target frequency.

On the other hand, I did struggle a lot with intonation on this guitar, which has brought me to upgrade both the nut and the bridge, so maybe there is something slightly wrong with it...

 

[tdarian]

I got a Mann 2300 and put it on my 2008 SC245. That guitar had the stock bridge with Schroeder locking studs, and it looks like these are the studs used by the OP on this thread.

For starters, the visual appearance was a night and day improvement. As far as tone (keeping in mind I went with a fresh set of strings) things were waaay brighter. Also way more note separation with chords.

The Schroeder bridge studs are noticeably longer than the Manns. Both are brass I believe. So I kept the Mann 2300 but substituted the Schroeder studs and things were right back in the tonal ballpark that I like. Sustain was also much better with the Schroeder studs...they’re not “pretty” like the Mann studs but my ears won out.

Being longer, I can’t screw the Schroeder studs down to my preferred action height, so I assume they’re bottoming out and I’ll need to deepen the cavity and maybe use the longer Schroeder bushings which I never installed. They’re brass, if the PRS bushings are not also brass then tone will certainly change. Does anyone know the material of the PRS bushings?

There’s also the issue of the ground wire, so I might get a local luthier to help with this minor surgery!

Bottom Line: I like the Mann bridge! Sounded better to me with the Schroeder studs but looked better with the Mann studs.

I found the 2300 to be perfectly intonated with no adjustments. When I can drop the string height just a half turn it should be perfect.

 

[bodia]

I love the Mann 2300