PRS Aluminum Stoptail VS. MannMade 2300

For Tonal properties do you prefer the PRS aluminum stoptail or do you prefer the MannMade 2300?


  • Total voters
    17

Ironwolf

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I'm forming the opinion that the MannMade 2300 is an amazing upgrade. perhaps we should just put it in the category of different tones available. because the standard bridge is also very nice.

however I just purchased 2018 Experience Paul's guitar, and it seemed like a really cool slurry tone, like smashing pumpkins tones, P90 tones, slightly different than I remembered my 2013 Paul's guitar. I started comparing it to my core Mira, which I had previously upgraded to the 2300 mannmade, and it really seemed to bring that guitar to life.
so I went ahead and put the MannMade 2300 on the brand-new $5000 Paul's guitar, fully prepared to immediately swap it back to the aluminum,in fear.
but holy crap what an amazing improvement.:)
I swapped it back, once to confirm what I was hearing. it appeared to me that the aluminum bridge allows all the strings to communicate with each other too much creating that slurry tone. the individual brass saddles have created fantastic high definition note clarity. it's such an amazing guitar now all the other guitars are in the closet.
the aluminum is just a different tone for me. is it a placebo effect?
VDgUbIp.jpg
 

pauloqs

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I wonder if you’d find a difference between the MannMade 2300 and the PRS adjustable one piece bridge. And if you did, which one would you prefer.
 

Bowtiefanatc

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I know that I hear a true difference on my SE One when I swapped to a Schroeder adjustable bridge. I also hear a small difference in the Schroeder adjustable vs the tonepros that was on my SC245.
 

dmatthews

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I'm forming the opinion that the MannMade 2300 is an amazing upgrade. perhaps we should just put it in the category of different tones available. because the standard bridge is also very nice.

however I just purchased 2018 Experience Paul's guitar, and it seemed like a really cool slurry tone, like smashing pumpkins tones, P90 tones, slightly different than I remembered my 2013 Paul's guitar. I started comparing it to my core Mira, which I had previously upgraded to the 2300 mannmade, and it really seemed to bring that guitar to life.
so I went ahead and put the MannMade 2300 on the brand-new $5000 Paul's guitar, fully prepared to immediately swap it back to the aluminum,in fear.
but holy crap what an amazing improvement.:)
I swapped it back, once to confirm what I was hearing. it appeared to me that the aluminum bridge allows all the strings to communicate with each other too much creating that slurry tone. the individual brass saddles have created fantastic high definition note clarity. it's such an amazing guitar now all the other guitars are in the closet.
the aluminum is just a different tone for me. is it a placebo effect?
VDgUbIp.jpg
Fantastically beautiful!
The bridge tops it off nicely
 

sergiodeblanc

Don’t you ever cry again for the rest of your life
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I’m gonna go with the one piece aluminium.

Bodia was rad enough to gift me a 2300 and it altered the string tension and ruined the “magic” of the particular guitar I put it on. I took it off and swapped the old one on and it immediately returned to being awesome again, plus I think I like the idea of less moving parts and the feel is sublime.

I live and die by John’s trems, think every other trem is a downgrade compared to his, and feel his artistry is unsurpassed... but the 2300 just isn’t for me.

I’d love to give one of those brass impregnated stoptails like you took off the Paul’s a spin though.
 

Ironwolf

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which bridge..?
Enjoy this great instrument with the original bridge or not :)
Great model, colour and top. Simply stunning!
VDgUbIp.jpg
[/QUOTE]
Paul outdid himself on this one, the TCI single coils are spectacular, both switches up in single coil position, middle position is hum canceling, such a fantastic telecaster sound,
the dynamics are so sensitive you can hear the wood, with every slight change of picking dynamics, and the MannMade bridge accentuates the dynamic wood tones.
the neck pick up is amazing and tight, but I'm in love with the bottom 3 positions. 1. bridge single coil vocal quality/pick attack, 2.hit the micro switch down to full humbucker completely different powerful voice, then 3. back to the middle position with both single coils. OMG. tone and volume knob interact extremely powerfully. roll the tone off about 30 to 40% instant violin.
 

LSchefman

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Paul outdid himself on this one, the TCI single coils are spectacular, both switches up in single coil position, middle position is hum canceling, such a fantastic telecaster sound,
the dynamics are so sensitive you can hear the wood, with every slight change of picking dynamics, and the MannMade bridge accentuates the dynamic wood tones.
the neck pick up is amazing and tight, but I'm in love with the bottom 3 positions. 1. bridge single coil vocal quality/pick attack, 2.hit the micro switch down to full humbucker completely different powerful voice, then 3. back to the middle position with both single coils. OMG. tone and volume knob interact extremely powerfully. roll the tone off about 30 to 40% instant violin.[/QUOTE]

I have the Paul’s pickups on my 20th PS Anni model, and I freaking LOVE the way they sound. My guitar has the PS locking trem, though, and I have no experience with John’s bridges. However, they’re fantastic pickups!
 

nilsoac

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Dec 11, 2019
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To all those who own a Mannmade 2300, could you comment whether all the brass saddles are exactly the same on all the 6 strings ? I recently bought one, and I noticed that the D string saddle is slightly higher/larger, and looks different in color as well (is slightly shinier).

I would post a picture but do not have enough posts on the forum to do so...

Also, even with the bridge screws set to the lowest possible position, the action is still really high on my Zach Myers (I get > 2.0 mm on the 6th string and > 1.5 mm on the 1st string), which is a bit annoying.

Tagging @John Mann in case he wants to chime in.
 

Ironwolf

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I believe John may have brass mounting screws (posts) with a thinner bottom washer, there is a difference between SE models and the core mounting posts.
Here are some pictures of my Ted. absolutely the best playing guitar I've ever owned.

I've set my low E string 0.072 " I believe that's about 1.8 mm my mounting post has about one more full turn before it's on the deck
I have my high E at string at 0.060"

I did have to take my nut files and lower the D and G brass saddle depth, I cut approximately 0.010" deeper into the brass saddle, I think you can actually see that in the picture.
So all my strings go from 0.072 E, the D and the G are perfect at 0.065" hi E 0.060"

Using the Stewart McDonald set up ruler, on the core model with a very thin bottom washer on the brass post my set up can be set up too low just barely I tried 0.068" and it was too low the strings were rattling.

I just recently shared the guitar with a few other players they'd never seen a guitar that sustained so long , action seemed very low perfect set up is there.
cDQ0rCQ.jpg



One turn above the deck notice the very thin washer at the bottom.
BNDlcQ0.jpg


D & G were cut slightly deeper 3 strokes with file
yQo9d4L.jpg


Cheers
 

Andrew Paul

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I’m loving my Paul’s with TCI and one piece aluminum with brass inserts for each string. My Pail’s guitar is magic, I will not change a thing. Make some recordings now with the Mann bridge and when you go back and try the Paul’s stoptail again.

Here’s my baby

qAp6Gk4.jpg
 

nilsoac

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I believe John may have brass mounting screws (posts) with a thinner bottom washer, there is a difference between SE models and the core mounting posts.
Here are some pictures of my Ted. absolutely the best playing guitar I've ever owned.

I've set my low E string 0.072 ". I believe that's about 1.8 mm my mounting post has about one more full turn before it's on the deck
I have my high E at string at 0.060"

[...]

Thank you for the detailed answer, and for taking the time to take pictures.

There is definitely a difference in base height between your guitar and mine. The absolute lowest I can go is just below 2 mm (0.079 "), which is too high for me.

I might have to file the saddles (do you use a specific file for that or can you use a nut file BTW?).

However, thanks to your pictures I notice that my bridge studs do not down fully, there is still a small gap. In the pictures below both studs are fully screwed down (click on the thumbnail to zoom) :





Is that expected at all ?

I've also taken some pics to illustrate the odd saddle at the D string. As you can see it's larger, brighter and almost seems to be made of a different material o_O






I hope I get this sorted because the new bridge did really make a positive difference on the sound :)
 

nilsoac

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Update : I've had some time to look into this further, and it seems like the MannMade studs are slightly longer than the factory ones. That causes the stud to hit the bottom of the wells before it's fully screwed down. Does that mean I'm good for a drilling session ? :/
 

grausch

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Update : I've had some time to look into this further, and it seems like the MannMade studs are slightly longer than the factory ones. That causes the stud to hit the bottom of the wells before it's fully screwed down. Does that mean I'm good for a drilling session ? :/

I have not used a Mannmade (opting for an ABM instead), but if I recall from the YouTube videos no drilling was required. Only reason to change the bushings was to match up the threads between the bolts and bushings. Careful with the drilling. It is not impossible, but certainly nerve-wracking...
 

Andrew Paul

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Just curious, is there anything different using the PRS bridge with adjustable brass inserts? Requires no drilling or special handling whatsoever?

I could be very wrong but it seems like it’s the exact same thing.

mI9DmoZ.jpg
 

nilsoac

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Just curious, is there anything different using the PRS bridge with adjustable brass inserts? Requires no drilling or special handling whatsoever?

I could be very wrong but it seems like it’s the exact same thing.

I want to stress that the MannMade 2300 should be a drop in replacement, both for imports and USA PRS. I did not even have to replace the stud wells. It's just the new studs that seem ~ 1 mm too long in my case. And AFAICT, I haven't seen any other SE owners complain about this specific aspect, so there must be something about my particular guitar...

The reason I bought the MannMade is that I had weird intonation issues, I replaced the nut and the bridge, which seemed to completely solve it.

I am a bit puzzled/dissapointed by the weird brass saddle though. For that price, I would expect perfect saddles.
 

Andrew Paul

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Ok. Just one bit of advice. Instead of drilling a guitar to (not sure if you did, may have been someone else) have the longer studs have ground down. We all can find someone to do that.

“I am a bit puzzled/disappointed by the weird brass saddle though. For that price, I would expect perfect saddles.” Do you mean the PRS one I show in the photo?
 
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