In Case Anyone Needs To See This...

One case exists where more wraps are better and that is 6-in line headstocks without a downward headstock angle. Looking at the strings from a side view between the nut and tuning peg you will see a steep angle on the short strings closest to the nut, and a shallow angle for the longest. That shallow string angle can exert minimal down-force on the nut which can be problematic. One problem is that excessive string vibration can sometimes pass over the nut and cause audible unwanted noise from above the nut. Another is that strings with not enough down-force over the nut will pop out of the nut slot during deep bends, especially close to the nut. A third issue is that minimal down-force will diminish tone. These reasons are why some manufacturers use string trees. It is also why Gibson purists want that steep headstock angle and suffer headstock break. The lesser angle affects the tone according to the purists.

Putting more wraps on a post increases the down-force across the nut when the wraps go down the post. This may be audible to some people, and I would suggest that adding wraps isn’t by definition wrong for whatever reason you choose.

One more thing I consider on my locking tuners:
I strive for at least 1/2 a wrap minimum. My logic is that the hole in the tuner makes the diameter from hole to hole narrower than the full diameter of the peg. Stretching the string tight and locking down makes the arc the string passes over to change as the tuner is rotated. Given a linear rotation of the tuner button will result in an inconsistent stretch of the string as it transitions from the hole in the peg to the larger diameter barrel. This can cause the tuning to jump higher unexpectedly. It also adds excessive force to the hole area of the peg which has minimal wall thickness right where the string exits the hole. My thought is that tuning across this area repeatedly can cause excessive wear at the peg hole. If a burr forms it can cause string cutting and breakage. More of a wrap increases the surface area of the string to the peg also.
 
With locking tuners I pull mine straight through, pull the string tight, lock the string hand tight, tune, stretch the string gently, and retune. The thicker strings usually don't fully wrap around the peg. Nonetheless, I don't have issues with strings staying in tune.

That's the way they come from the factory, and how Gretz does it. It's worked fine for me with Phase I-III tuners.

I can see how wrapping the wind all the way around the peg might make things more stable, but I haven't had a problem, so it ain't broke and I'm not fixin' it.

On non-locking tuners, I've done the locking thing and the standard way, and haven't noticed a difference in tuning stability, except the locking thing is faster because fewer winds are needed. I use the standard method simply to make taking the string off the peg when restringing less of a fight.
I do it the same way on lockers. On non-lockers, I change them to lockers because I am that lazy.
 
Earlier I posted that I've pulled 'em straight through tightly and locked 'em down, tuned, stretched and re-tuned.

But I just checked the new DGT that has the factory strings, and they do now wrap the string around the post once. I'm not sure they always did in the past. I guess that makes sense. I'll probably try it.
 
I remember years ago on the old PRS forum being told the opposite to one of Skitchy's methods with the Phase II's.

he says, "Bend the string backwards towards the outside of the headstock to help lock in place."
but I was taught to bend the strings towards the center of the headstock to lock them in .

Now I'm confused.. I've done it towards the center of the headstock for the last 20 years and it's been fine. Less than half a wind which matches up with the old winged Christmas Tree look.
 
I remember years ago on the old PRS forum being told the opposite to one of Skitchy's methods with the Phase II's.

he says, "Bend the string backwards towards the outside of the headstock to help lock in place."
but I was taught to bend the strings towards the center of the headstock to lock them in .

Now I'm confused.. I've done it towards the center of the headstock for the last 20 years and it's been fine. Less than half a wind which matches up with the old winged Christmas Tree look.

If it works for you don’t fix it.

I’m from the school of fewer wraps makes for better staying in tune. But reading here there is a different school of thought -



I know these are lockers, but there’s no slippage or tuning issues.

But hey, we all do things slightly differently and that’s cool.
 
If it works for you don’t fix it.

I’m from the school of fewer wraps makes for better staying in tune. But reading here there is a different school of thought -



I know these are lockers, but there’s no slippage or tuning issues.

But hey, we all do things slightly differently and that’s cool.
That’s how I do it with my locks! And for the hell of it, anyone who has ever had the older locking tuners, the coveted wings, knows you need to pull them tight to get the perfect “Christmas tree“ there’s no such thing as a wraparound. I don’t wraparound with locking tuners, yeah, I know somebody will say better sustain, etc. etc. etc. etc. I don’t find that. I change them right up when they come with a wraparound.

Anyway, I miss these tuners. And I have one guitar left that has them.

qXrJTsi.jpg
 
That’s how I do it with my locks! And for the hell of it, anyone who has ever had the older locking tuners, the coveted wings, knows you need to pull them tight to get the perfect “Christmas tree“ there’s no such thing as a wraparound. I don’t wraparound with locking tuners, yeah, I know somebody will say better sustain, etc. etc. etc. etc. I don’t find that. I change them right up when they come with a wraparound.

Anyway, I miss these tuners. And I have one guitar left that has them.

qXrJTsi.jpg

Yep, I line the locker holes up straight with the strings, pull tight, clamp down and tighten a little until tuned !

I love fewer wraps with locking tuners!

But to each his own.
 
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I Never Change Strings. I Just Switch Guitars. I Should Probably Learn How To Change Them But With These Various Tuner Types I Get Overwhelmed And Confused. When My Strings Begin Sounding Dull I Just Bump The Treble And Presence Up On My Amp And It Seems To Fix Everything.

Edited For Emphasis On This Cost Cutting And Time Saving Technique. :)
 
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This topic is like a virus.

I guarantee you your tech will like you better if you don’t tie the strings in a knot around the tuning peg. The only time this might be helpful is for nylon strings, otherwise, it is not necessary and is a literal pain for whoever has to unstring your knotted, rusty, gunked up strings. Of course if you do your own restrings and setups then do whatever you want to but, as a professional luthier who does this day in and day out, I ask you kindly, please do not tie steel strings in a knot. Thank you.
 
Just chiming in with a recent experience. The last time I restrung my Fiore (according to the Skitchy technique video). I kept having to retune after every other song (tune it or die). Last night, using the strings that were already on it, I detuned, unlocked, pulled through tight, locked down, and trimmed as needed.
I pulled it down this morning to get in a little practice before work and didn't have to tune from the night before, or after playing for 45 minutes. It makes sense that the less string you have around the post, the less movement possible for the string.
 
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