I'm having some issues installing parts on 2003 Private Stock Singlecut. Help!

Adam Hill

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Mar 9, 2020
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Hello everyone! I recently acquired a 2003 Private Stock Singlecut. It's a beautiful guitar. I wanted to install 2 things when I got it. First one being PRS Phase III locking tuners instead of the current PRS vintage non-locking. Second being a fully adjustable stoptail bridge instead of the non adjustable.

Unfortunately, I seem to be having problems with both.

The tuners..

Multiple people including PRS tech support have told me that the Phase III will be a direct fit for PRS vintage tuners. While the holes line up correctly, it's come to my attention that the shaft in the Phase III is longer than the shaft on the old tuners. Not only that, but the headstock on the old singlecut seems to be thinner than the current 594 headstocks as well. When installing them, the base on the phase III "bottomed out" against the old bushings. I installed Graphtech Invisiomatch plate to "shim" that space but also go cover the old imprints of the old Vintage Tuners. While they don't sit perfectly flush with the Graphtech plates, it would seem these are okay. (See photo attached)

The fully adjustable stoptail bridge..

Now that I have the tuners installed, I decided to put the new PRS adjustable bridge and stoptail studs in. Installation seemed problem free. I string up the guitar and attempt to set my action. The bass side seems fine at 2mm where I like it. However, on the treble side, I can't lower the action any lower than about .070 (1.77 mm). This seems very high for it being the lowest it can possibly go in it's current state.

I'm not sure why I can't bring the action down any lower than that. Is it a problem with the bridge? Maybe the tuners installation is effecting it?

I'm a bit at a loss. I would appreciate any helpful informed input.















 
I have an idea about the bridge.

The older bridges had a lot more play in them I think.

This means you can't have as steep an angle, so in order to lower the treble, you will have to lower the bass, or do something else more drastic.

It's also possible that the posts are also different between old and new, are you using old posts with the new bridge?
 
I have an idea about the bridge.

The older bridges had a lot more play in them I think.

This means you can't have as steep an angle, so in order to lower the treble, you will have to lower the bass, or do something else more drastic.

It's also possible that the posts are also different between old and new, are you using old posts with the new bridge?
I am using the new posts with the new bridge.


The old posts could be different. I wonder if they have changed them over the years? The guitar is 21 years old afterall.
 
I did the opposite with my S2 singlecut - went from the adjustable to a used core non-adjustable and IIRC, the posts are now extended a little further to get the same height/action, which tells me that the adjustable bridge is thicker. If I'm hearing you right, you're saying you've run out of height on one side and the action is still too high, right? Were you having issues with intonation using the original bridge?
 
Gorgeous guitar!

Question: why would you want to change the one piece bridge? Other than very thick strings (>012) or a wound 3rd string there is actually no reason to do so. They intonate perfectly (as good as any adjustable bridge), play very smooth and comfortable and sound awesome. Easily my favourite non-trem bridge.
 
Gorgeous guitar!

Question: why would you want to change the one piece bridge? Other than very thick strings (>012) or a wound 3rd string there is actually no reason to do so. They intonate perfectly (as good as any adjustable bridge), play very smooth and comfortable and sound awesome. Easily my favourite non-trem bridge.
…and I just love the way the single piece looks. As long as it intonates properly, I figure you can’t beat a single piece of milled aluminum for vibration transfer.
 
Bottom line is you're installing parts on a guitar they weren't designed for.

Things were different in 2002. As already established, the headstocks were thinner than on the newer guitars designed with Phase III tuners in mind.

PRS did have an adjustable stoptail available at the time, but it was a different design from the current one. It was taller than the 1-piece, but --pure conjecture here-- maybe the new adjustable is taller still. Newer guitars may have a steeper neck angle.

And then of course there's the possibility that when they made this particular PS guitar, they knew it would have the 1-piece bridge, so they set the neck angle with that in mind, not considering that a taller bridge may be desired someday.

Anyway, ideas:
1. You may have already addressed this, but make sure there isn't excessive relief in the neck.
2. Go back to the original 1-piece (although I do think the individual 6 brass saddles sound better).
3. There should be room to file down the saddles on the new bridge. That might get you low enough. Or possibly combined with...
4. Check the original studs vs. the new ones. Maybe the part that holds the bridge is a tiny bit thinner and therefore gives a wee bit more room to lower the overall bridge height?
5. Look for a "Paul's" 1-piece, which have brass inserts at the break points. Finding a gold one is probably a tall order, though.
 
Nice Guitar...Congrats!

I Have Nothing Else To Add That Hasn't Already Been Said. My Initial Thought Is Why Change Anything Unless You Are Having Problems (Which I Don't Know If You Are Or Are Not). No Matter The Tuners On Any Of My PRS Guitars I Have Never Had Tuning Issues And The Same For The Bridges And Intonation. I Have The Non Adjustable And Adjustable And Don't Really See A Benefit From The Adjustable. That Said, We All Are Different And Like What We Like And That is Ok. :)

Again, Congrats On That Beautiful Guitar! Enjoy The Heck Out Of It!! :)
 
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