Guitar of the Month

There is a 594 Guitar Of The Month for sale on a large forum that I would love to have. The guy isn't interested in any trades. That would be the way I would want to get into it. It is a lot of $$$ and trading multiple guitars towards it would put me in a place where I would be comfortable doing it. Even though he stated no trades I reached out to him anyway just to confirm and he definitely is not interested in trades. The guitar has been up for sale for a good while.
 
John F said:
The locking saddles on my June Paul’s guitar have to be tightened down very gently, with very little torque. The 1E string doesn’t like to sit in the center of the saddle, so I carefully align it. I broke the 1E string at the lock screw the first restring because I locked it too tight, but after that it is fine. Mine stays in tune while playing, and I find it in tune when I take it out of the case so the locking saddles are working for me. Also, I don’t tighten the saddle locking screws until the restring and setup is complete, tuned and intonated.

Forgive me for asking, but I’m curious how much string do you leave wrapped around the locking tuner? I leave about 1/4 of a rotation to be sure the string is flat on the barrel of the tuner shaft and not on the edge of the hole. Excess wraps can cause tuning issues, and having the string so tight that it leaves the tuner at the hole can cause breakage and tuning issues as the surface the string sits on isn’t smooth.

Where are the strings breaking, tuner, saddle or middle?

If it is the saddle, I noticed the saddle in mine pinches the 1E string against the block where the string rises out of the block because the saddle intonates too far towards the neck and the hole in the block is partially obstructed by the saddle. I noticed this on my 2015 Custom 24 saddle also. I have to slide that saddle back to open the blocked hole enough to get the string through. I’ve considered notching the block and bottom of the saddle so there is no pinch there. To test this theory, tighten the saddle screw until the hole opens up and try to break the string while playing. Yeah, you mess up the intonation, but that can be restored. Just count turns before tightening the screw and loosen it up the same number of turns.

With the strings and springs off, look at the bridge screws and bridge block knife edges to see if anything is deformed. Bad knife edge or screws will affect tuning stability.

If the string breaks at the tuner, look at the hole in the tuner with magnification to be sure a burr isn’t cutting the string. Look at a string you take off that didn’t break and see if the string has a cut at the tuner or saddle. It will eventually break at a cut if one exists. Finally, remove the locking screw and see if the tip is deformed. Maybe the locking screw is over tightened?

If strings break in the middle, look at the fret surface at the broken string, maybe it has a burr.

I bought the lighted magnifier from StewMac to see what I’m missing, it was an eye opener…

https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-too...for-maintenance/optivisor-headband-magnifier/

The last thing you might try is blocking the trem to ensure it stays in tune. You lose the trem, but get to play the guitar.
John
Click to expand...
Great response, I will do my best to answer each point you made. :)

I have the same problem with the string not wanting to sit in the center of the saddle. I don't lock anything tight. I am a big proponent of never over tightening anything. I even backed out the saddle screws that lock the string to varying degrees so as to remove them from the equation and I still broke strings quickly.

On the tuning pegs, imagine following the string up around the tuning peg barrel and seeing a candy cane. It curves around enough to crest over the top of the barrel of the tuning peg. I don't cut the string so short that it is locked in straight up and down or anything like that.

The strings are breaking both at the saddle and the nut area (not the same string of course). Most often the saddle area is the culprit yet the nut was cut poorly and was garbage as well.

Regarding the saddles, I do have to slide them back as well to open them up to string. Some more than others and I forget off the top of my head which ones need more movement and which ones don't. My G, B, E (unwound) strings break the most though I did break a D string once. I haven't broken a string on any other guitar in probably 20 years and out of the roughly 100 PRS guitars I have bought over the years I have never had these kinds of problems. To be accurate, I have more problems with this guitar alone than all other guitar problems added together.

I guess for me, the bottom line is these types of problems should not be happening. I shouldn't have to go through all of these hoops on any guitar, much less a guitar like this at this price point made by PRS which is always flying the flag of innovation, forward progression and customer service, etc. I could block the trem but even then the problems aren't solved and I have a guitar that doesn't function in accordance to why I bought it. At this point I might as well just get a fret dress, a proper nut made and replace the entire Tremolo/bridge system just to make sure I can play my PRS Private Stock Guitar of the Month. That tune doesn't have the ring to it that makes me have a smile on my face and a bounce in my step. :)
 
JasonE said:
There is a 594 Guitar Of The Month for sale on a large forum that I would love to have. The guy isn't interested in any trades. That would be the way I would want to get into it. It is a lot of $$$ and trading multiple guitars towards it would put me in a place where I would be comfortable doing it. Even though he stated no trades I reached out to him anyway just to confirm and he definitely is not interested in trades. The guitar has been up for sale for a good while.
Click to expand...
Oh? Single cut or Double cut? Details. :)
 
In consideration of tuning stability after tremolo use or bending, I’m wondering if the back of the nut slots towards the tuners is not tapered low enough towards the headstock which is the source of binding?

The front edge of the nut towards the strings is the high point and sets the string height above the first fret. The back edge is filed down towards the headstock which limits the surface area the string has to ride on when bending. Is it possible the nut was never tapered down?

StewMac sells abrasive string of fine grit made for polishing saddles and string trees. I would order some up and polish every saddle and the path of the string into the trem block. I see some of my strings rest against the edge of the trem block as they rise to the Gen III locking saddles, I would polish those edges too. Next I would remove every locking screw, polish the string holes in the tuners, and look at the magnified edges inside the tuners and the tips of the locking screws. I would polish the tip of each locking screw.

Lastly, I would change my brand of strings at least one time. I have read about counterfeit string packages which are crappy. Strings have a shelf life when they don’t come in hermetically sealed individual pockets. Old strings get corrosion spots (rust) that can be felt fresh out of the package. Possible cause for solid string break without reason which is worth checking out.

John
 
I've got one of the 2016 PS Anniversary Ltd. models with the locking saddles on the bridge, but I've had zero problems with string breakage, or tuning issues.

If it were my guitar, I'd get it fixed, simply because it makes more sense to have PRS make it right than to just sit there unused.

I'd probably just have my dealer handle it, instead of spinning my own wheels; Jack Gretz is great about getting things done for guitars that are sold through his shop, and goodness knows, he gets results.
 
John F said:
In consideration of tuning stability after tremolo use or bending, I’m wondering if the back of the nut slots towards the tuners is not tapered low enough towards the headstock which is the source of binding?

The front edge of the nut towards the strings is the high point and sets the string height above the first fret. The back edge is filed down towards the headstock which limits the surface area the string has to ride on when bending. Is it possible the nut was never tapered down?

StewMac sells abrasive string of fine grit made for polishing saddles and string trees. I would order some up and polish every saddle and the path of the string into the trem block. I see some of my strings rest against the edge of the trem block as they rise to the Gen III locking saddles, I would polish those edges too. Next I would remove every locking screw, polish the string holes in the tuners, and look at the magnified edges inside the tuners and the tips of the locking screws. I would polish the tip of each locking screw.

Lastly, I would change my brand of strings at least one time. I have read about counterfeit string packages which are crappy. Strings have a shelf life when they don’t come in hermetically sealed individual pockets. Old strings get corrosion spots (rust) that can be felt fresh out of the package. Possible cause for solid string break without reason which is worth checking out.

John
Click to expand...
I appreciate your responses. Very kind and thoughtful of you. :)

Regarding the nut, I agree with the back side not being tapered correctly nor was the nut cut right overall. It appears like it was started on Friday and Monday came around and they forgot they never finished it and it went from there. The nut height and groove depth was off. Same thing with the second nut they did but it wasn't even finished looking shape wise. It was a mess and looked like a child's first attempt. The neck curvature wasn't accounted for and the nut wasn't as wide as the nut slot it sits in so right to left it didn't fill the space and the bottom of the nut was noticeably narrower than the top of the nut.The top didn't look like it had even been touched or shaped in any way. Imagine a nut looking like this \_.__.__.__.__.__._/ with rolled edges on your fretboard looking like this (_.__.__.__.__.__._) I also think the bone nut isn't the best material for a trem guitar like this.

The action was way high and the nut didn't appear to be glued in. It just slid right out when the B string broke and I loosened tension on the others to replace the set. I tried various packs of strings I had. DR, Ernie Ball, D'Addario and I used both 10's and 9's until I ran out of packs. On some guitars I use 11's so my final attempt was to try a set of 11's (Which I have on other PRS guitars with trems and no issues) and no matter what I did I ran into the same problems. I don't think the issue is with the machine heads nor is it string relatedI have . I do believe all the issues are nut and trem related. This is the only guitar I have with the Gen III saddles/bridge. It is also the only PRS guitar I have ever had a problem with.

I have the Stew Mac Abrasive Cord in its various thicknesses. Great stuff and every guitar player should have some on hand. I also have all the tools to work on everything. Nut jigs, files, depth gauge, anything you can think of for guitar repair. My frustration, again, is why should I have to do anything to this guitar aside from basic preference things. I am just baffled at that and even more baffled at the attitude I got from Shawn and the way/condition it was sent back to me in. Just absolutely unacceptable and especially on this type of a guitar and at this price point. We are not talking a base model Malaysian Balsa Wood factory second here. :)

The pickups aren't my thing (most likely) so it appears that I will be swapping those out. I do however want to give them a fair chance as this guitar is very different spec wise from what I have so maybe having something totally different can work. I just haven't been able to play the thing in any way all this time. I hate electronics/wiring pickups, etc but am aware I may need to replace them so when I get in the mood to want to rewire and fix this guitar and all its problems I will have to be the one that does it...but I should never have to. It should have been aces from the factory. :)
 
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LSchefman said:
I've got one of the 2016 PS Anniversary Ltd. models with the locking saddles on the bridge, but I've had zero problems with string breakage, or tuning issues.

If it were my guitar, I'd get it fixed, simply because it makes more sense to have PRS make it right than to just sit there unused.

I'd probably just have my dealer handle it, instead of spinning my own wheels; Jack Gretz is great about getting things done for guitars that are sold through his shop, and goodness knows, he gets results.
Click to expand...
I agree! The only problem is PRS had the guitar back in the shop and didn't fix it. That is why I am where I am on this. I have so many guitars that it literally is out of sight and out of mine most of the time so it just sits. Whenever I think of rewiring pickups or doing anything major to any other guitar then it is at the forefront of my mind and still has me livid. Aside from that, the money was spent and it is what it is. What it is though is a crappy situation that should never have been and on top of that it was sent back to be fixed and again was a crappy situation that resolved absolutely nothing and in some aspects the work was worse. THAT is my frustration. Like I said, I have the tools and ability to fix it and I know enough people I can take it to and get it fixed BUT I SHOULDN"T HAVE TO DO IT THAT WAY. :)
 
Bogner said:
I agree! The only problem is PRS had the guitar back in the shop and didn't fix it. That is why I am where I am on this. I have so many guitars that it literally is out of sight and out of mine most of the time so it just sits. Whenever I think of rewiring pickups or doing anything major to any other guitar then it is at the forefront of my mind and still has me livid. Aside from that, the money was spent and it is what it is. What it is though is a crappy situation that should never have been and on top of that it was sent back to be fixed and again was a crappy situation that resolved absolutely nothing and in some aspects the work was worse. THAT is my frustration. Like I said, I have the tools and ability to fix it and I know enough people I can take it to and get it fixed BUT I SHOULDN"T HAVE TO DO IT THAT WAY. :)
Click to expand...
You are absolutely right that it shouldn't have been that way in the first place.

And it should have been made playable the first time you sent it in, regardless of the price involved! But it wasn't.

I'd insist on the factory making it 100% right. You have every right to insist.

I've had very good experiences with their warranty repairs (oddly enough I've had the Switchcraft toggle and a pot go bad on a PS, so not really PRS' fault, but they took care of it, no fuss.). However, if I had to send a PS back twice, I wouldn't be exactly thrilled, but WTF, it would go back twice, or thrice, or however many times it would take to be right.
 
LSchefman said:
You are absolutely right that it shouldn't have been that way in the first place.

And it should have been made playable the first time you sent it in, regardless of the price involved! But it wasn't.

I'd insist on the factory making it 100% right. You have every right to insist.

I've had very good experiences with their warranty repairs (oddly enough I've had the Switchcraft toggle and a pot go bad on a PS, so not really PRS' fault, but they took care of it, no fuss.). However, if I had to send a PS back twice, I wouldn't be exactly thrilled, but WTF, it would go back twice, or thrice, or however many times it would take to be right.
Click to expand...
Great point! There is a side to me that is wanting to strongly go that direction...again.

On the other hand, the way things were handled the first time was far less than satisfactory and the fact that John Mann did indeed have a conversation or possibly conversations with Paul about the situation and Paul chose not to reach out to me or do anything about it (even if he had to delegate it to somebody else) tells me an awful lot. This situation went to the top and nobody took ownership of it. I don't care how busy a person is, if you want to take care of something and or see it through you do so. It is only a decision away. There are no excuses. I have done this on far less heated, expensive, immediate things myself in business and I did so because I cared and I wasn't going to allow a situation to even have the potential to go south and sour. That wasn't an option. The way this situation was handled in addition to them NOT making a choice to follow through at all costs and make it right was indeed a decision on their behalf. Can that ship ever be course corrected? I am not sure. I could just as well fix it myself OR take it to a number of tech's I know that could handle the job as well. But again, I should never have to. :)

A new situation away from PRS almost makes the overall situation less salty.....almost. I am chewing on a direction to take but I am at the point where one needs to be taken....again. :) Otherwise I have a very expensive boat anchor, paper weight, firewood or something but it sure as heck isn't a playable guitar. :(
 
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