Les is correct, it is an art. There are several very good products in the marketplace. I am an owner of a group of several body shops. I use a blend of 3M and Wizard's polishing compounds. Start with the least abrasive polishing product available only after you have cleaned the areas all around where you will be working. If you are not careful, you can introduce minute containments into the mix which will make matters worse. To clean tbe area, use one of the spray products such as Mist & Shine or Final Inspection from Meguiar's. Begin with the least abrasive polishing compound product you have using the proper foam polishing pad. Take your time and don't be afraid to repeat the process several times until the scratch or swirl mark is less obvious. You can almost never fully remove the scratch - only make it less of a nuisance. Always have a supply of quality micro fiber towels. Don't use regular cotton towels since they will leave swirls. The more deliberate you are with this process, the better the result. If you shortcut the process, you will regret it. Nitro finishes are far more delicate than poly finishes, but both can be repaired with the right care. If you unsure about your skill here, don't experiment on your Private Stock guitar first.
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. Be sensible and try it out on a different (less valuable) surface first.
I would like to add to my prior comments since I was writing at the time on my cellphone, which is painfully slow and tedious.
You want to introduce the
least amount of abrasion as you absolutely need to in an effort to arrive at a beautiful shine. For the most part, the best your PRS is ever going to look is when it arrives brand new in the case. For most people, it's downhill from there. Unless you are like me and I start going after the most minute flaws in the finish to arrive at "perfect", which by the way is nearly impossible. As I stated before, I am an owner of a group of 24 body shops where we will have fixed approximately 26,000 cars this year by the time 2014 is over. We spend about $2,000,000 per year just in paint. We have tried lots of different products following lots of different SOPs in an effort to get it right. I don't mean to toot my own horn here, just to share my perspective.
I have found that some of the spray gloss enhancers are simply amazing for routine care. Products like Wizard's Mist & Shine; Meguiar's Final Inspection and C-Magic's Detail Wax (which I think is the best, but you can't find it on shelves) are necessary to do the job right. Use one of these products with a high quality micro fiber towel (you can almost never have too many good micro fiber towels in your inventory) and you will be very satisfied with the look of your finish for a long time. For the most part, that's all you will need for on-going maintenance of your finish unless you run into scratches you want to eliminate. Then, it gets tricky.
As I stated previously, a CLEAN surface is mandatory for introducing polish into the equation. That means, getting the dust and crud removed from the areas near the strings, pickups, knobs and switches. As you work the polish into the finish, if some of that crud makes it into the liquid polish, guess what you are now rubbing into the finish of your guitar? Ask me how I know...... The smallest contaminant can do an amazing amount of damage to your finish. And, then you are fixing your fix - not fun!
If you are working on the back of the guitar, consider the surface that the front of your guitar is resting upon. Another source of possible damage for sure.
Les mentioned the abrasive particles that are contained in polishes and how they break down into even smaller particles as you rub the polish into the surface. The most profound understanding of this is when you attempt to polish the back of an acoustic guitar. The first time I tried that was on my R. Taylor madagascar rosewood-backed acoustic guitar. Trying to buff out swirls on a $X,XXX.XX guitar can bring out a sweat in a hurry. With the enormous sound chamber (the body of the guitar), the grinding of the abrasive polish being rubbed into the surface of the guitar can sound alarms in your head like you wouldn't believe. You never hear that sound while working on a car because the buffer is too loud. You can't really hear it on a solid body guitar either. Not so on an acoustic. Not for the faint of heart for sure. Be careful and be prepared before you start any of these procedures. Again, ask me how I know.........
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