DG30 Amp Comparison?

CandidPicker

Tone Matters. Use It Well.
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Hi,

Was hoping to ask the collective mindset on this forum how they might compare a PRS DG30 amp head to any other amp (head or combo)? What make or model does the DG30 most closely imitate? If possible to answer, why do you select this model? What configs should one be aware of regards the DG30? Lastly, what type speakers are included in the accompanying PRS 2x12 cab?

As a reference, Dave in several YT videos states that he prefers tweed-style amps that reside in "the brown sound" region. If this is of any help, how might you describe tweed amps (either vintage or modern) that you've found are close to the DG30, in terms of tone and sound?

Thanks for your responses in advance.
 
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Hi,

Was hoping to ask the collective mindset on this forum how they might compare a PRS DG30 amp head to any other amp (head or combo)? What make or model does the DG30 most closely imitate? If possible to answer, why do you select this model? What configs should one be aware of regards the DG30? Lastly, what type speakers are included in the accompanying PRS 2x12 cab?

As a reference, Dave in several YT videos states that he prefers tweed-style amps that reside in "the brown sound" region. If this is of any help, how might you describe tweed amps (either vintage or modern) that you've found are close to the DG30, in terms of tone and sound?

Thanks for your responses in advance.
Good Question!

So here's the deal: Grissom liked some of the stuff his vintage Tweed Deluxe was doing, some of the stuff his vintage AC30 was doing, and how the tone controls altered the sound on his vintage Hiwatt.

He likes an amp that works without pedals, but he also likes an amp that works well with boosts and lower gain overdrives, and he runs all of his effects into the front of his amps, no effects loop.

Doug Sewell's goal was to satisfy all of those preferences with one amp, which became the DG30. More on that later.

The cab is made of pine, is ported in the rear with grille cloth covering the ports for a reason that's not cosmetic, and has V-30s. Grissom said the last speakers he was seriously considering were V-30s but he and Doug tested every speaker on the market at the time, and thought the V-30s actually sounded best, so that's what the cab comes with.

The warm character of the pine cab definitely tames the V-30s. Grissom stated in an interview that the grille cloth slightly softens the tone, both front and rear, the way an old Basketweave Marshall's grille cloth does.

I should mention that the pine cab with the ports is a great match for the V30s, though Doug Sewell told me a few years ago at a PRS event that he though the Celestion Alnico Cream 90s would be an interesting choice as well.

If you listen to Grissom's "Learning to Fly," it's all the DG30 and cab. That's exactly what the amp sounds like to me with the gain up at about 2:00.

The amp has a top cut knob like an old AC30. Combined with the treble and presence controls, you have a lot of control over your high frequencies to make them less pronounced. However, I run my cut control very low. I like treble.

There's a switch on the amp for Boost and Normal modes, and in Boost the amp is a beast. In normal mode, it's more of a recording amp, and that's how I run it in my studio - most of the time. However, the amp smokes in its Boost mode and there are plenty of times I record with it in that mode.

Grissom runs his Master Volume wide open. But it also sounds good with the Master at lower levels, and there's something to be aware of: It's a pre-phase inverter Master, and therefore the tone and gain controls have an effect on how the Master works. It's not like a post-phase inverter Master as you'd find on most amps. You have to turn the knobs a little bit when you use the Master.

If you lower the gain, it's got a very vintage, Tweed-like, clean tone. Raise the gain, and you're somewhere between Tweed and overdriven Brit amp territory. The amp is designed to respond very well to the guitar volume control, like a vintage amp.

I go with the DG30 for my Americana style tracks, or for bluesier styles. If you play mostly Metal, well...not the droid you're looking for.

The amp is "faster" in terms of responding to pick attack than a vintage Marshall, the HXDA or a Mesa. But it's got more bottom end than an AC30, and is easier to use in the studio than a Hiwatt.

The amp is 90% hand-wired on Military-Spec circuit boards. I believe there's a PCB for the power supply, but check with PRS. Doug Sewell told me that amp takes more time to build, and is more complex to make, than any of the old PRS CAD amps, or anything else they make.

The DG30 uses EL84 M tubes. These are not the same as EL84s, they're military tubes that can handle higher voltages, and last a lot longer than typical EL84s. Mine came with an NOS set of Russian military tubes that are still going strong after 9 years, and as you know, that's an incredibly long time for an EL84. I bought a spare NOS set when the amp was new, and so far haven't needed to install them. It's possible I'll be dead before I need to, but dammit, I'm ready!! ;)

However, if you use standard EL84s, they'll melt. The amp has two fans, and they're necessary. However, I find the fans quiet enough for recording. Also, in terms of noise, the amp has excellent ground planes, and any noise you hear won't be from the amp, it'll be from associated gear. It's a VERY well thought-out, beautiful sounding amp, right down to the prevention of noise.

Here's a track I did a few years ago that I've posted a billion times, done with my DG30. I start with a 594 Soapbar, and halfway through switch to a standard 594 humbucker model. I used a smidgen of boost pedal (just to color the tone a tiny bit, the pedal was at unity gain) with the amp about 2/3 open, gain at 1:00, in normal mode:


So, why'd I buy the amp?

I think it sounds good and works well for a lot of the things I play. On my ad projects it's paid for itself many times over. So, totally worth the dough.
 
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I've had mine for about a month ( thanks to Les' reviews) I'd agree with all he's said . What I've found is that if you keep the Master below noon, you can have a very rich clean tone , if you crank the master you need very little Volume to get a THICK sound . The cabinet is GREAT , fills the room as well as my 4x12 Marshall. Loves boost and drive pedals . By itself not a high gain monster, but vintage tone in buckets.

. I've played a Boogie for 30 years, as well as a Sovtek Mig 50 (original) and a pre-CBS Princeton . The DG 30 takes a bit more tweaking to get the tone , but once there .. the results are more rich than any other amp I've played through in the last 40 years. For me it was well worth it .
 
I kinda wish I had given the DG30 more time or had one now , I am slowly coming to terms with single channel amps, Don't get me wrong my MKV still rules the roost but I do spend more time with my HDRX and Vibrolux than I used to :)
 
I would have bought one already, but knowing the tones I love out of it (Grissom's live tone at the Saxon) requires the MV wide open, means for home use I'd have to get an attenuator, and it's not cheap if you want a good one- not all attenuators are created equal. It's just so expensive (new) that I'm gun shy. If one became available used, even just a head, at the right price, I'd probably pull the trigger and take the chance that an attenuator (I would buy the Fryette Power Station 2) would be able to get the volume down without killing the tone.
 
I just play in my parlor and have no issues with excessive volume, don't need an attenuator. If you aren't in boost mode its easy to tame.

Well, like I said- I'm going for those Grissom tones, and I know he keeps it in boost mode all the time, unless he's in the studio and needs a cleaner, more blackfacey sound.
 
I wanted to restate what I've said many times about my posts. I'm not in the business of selling amps. I like talking about them. I'm an enthusiast if it's a great amp.

But that doesn't mean I'm suggesting that someone else should feel the way I do, or buy one. Quite the opposite, really. I like having unusual stuff in my studio that works for me, and also delights other session players who come in. So it's kind of fun that I have something different from most other folks. I guess I should tell people NOT to buy what I have, it should be my secret alone! :)

Grissom says he records with his in normal mode, so clearly he has no trouble getting his preferred tone with it. I don't believe the amp has to be run wide open to get that tone. I can get it pretty darn close with the Master below noon, though I do love opening up the amp - because I can!

On the other hand, I don't try to cop anyone else's tone, for me that's counterproductive. I just like being me through a great amp. Heck, I don't think it's even possible for my playing to sound like Grissom's playing.

Most attenuators alter the tone in weird ways, but PRS demos their HDRX 100 with a modestly priced Koch attenuator that costs only $300, and it sounds very good in the videos.

Again, not telling anyone they should buy the amp. It's none of my business.

I've had mine for about a month ( thanks to Les' reviews) I'd agree with all he's said . What I've found is that if you keep the Master below noon, you can have a very rich clean tone , if you crank the master you need very little Volume to get a THICK sound . The cabinet is GREAT , fills the room as well as my 4x12 Marshall. Loves boost and drive pedals . By itself not a high gain monster, but vintage tone in buckets.

. I've played a Boogie for 30 years, as well as a Sovtek Mig 50 (original) and a pre-CBS Princeton . The DG 30 takes a bit more tweaking to get the tone , but once there .. the results are more rich than any other amp I've played through in the last 40 years. For me it was well worth it .
I completely agree - buckets of tone and color!

From time to time I wonder why I even own my Mesa amps. I have an emotional attachment to them, but I can do most of the things I do with them using the HXDA and DG30.

I was thinking about selling the Fillmore because the DG does what I do with the Fillmore, only in a more unique way. The main reason I haven't is that I had mine made with custom appointments, like a leather covering, and loaded it with NOS GE preamp tubes that made it sound really, really good. But that stuff was costly.

So I would never be able to get the extra value I put in, because used amp buyers aren't paying extra for decor and most don't even know about NOS glass. In any case, it's probably smart to hang onto it.

I just play in my parlor and have no issues with excessive volume, don't need an attenuator. If you aren't in boost mode its easy to tame.
My studio is in my condo. Yes, the amp is effective played loud, but the master volume works - I've had no complaints from neighbors since getting the amp in early 2014, yet I run my master at around 2:00 most of the time.

I'm guessing that it's either not all that loud, or my neighbors are deaf, or they don't care. Could be all three. ;)
 
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I wanted to restate what I've said many times about my posts. I'm not in the business of selling amps. I like talking about them. I'm an enthusiast if it's a great amp.

But that doesn't mean I'm suggesting that someone else should feel the way I do, or buy one. Quite the opposite, really. I like having unusual stuff in my studio that works for me, and also delights other session players who come in. So it's kind of fun that I have something different from most other folks. I guess I should tell people NOT to buy what I have, it should be my secret alone! :)

Grissom says he records with his in normal mode, so clearly he has no trouble getting his preferred tone with it. I don't believe the amp has to be run wide open to get that tone. I can get it pretty darn close with the Master below noon, though I do love opening up the amp - because I can!

On the other hand, I don't try to cop anyone else's tone, for me that's counterproductive. I just like being me through a great amp. Heck, I don't think it's even possible for my playing to sound like Grissom's playing.

Most attenuators alter the tone in weird ways, but PRS demos their HDRX 100 with a modestly priced Koch attenuator that costs only $300, and it sounds very good in the videos.

Again, not telling anyone they should buy the amp. It's none of my business.


I completely agree - buckets of tone and color!

From time to time I wonder why I even own my Mesa amps. I have an emotional attachment to them, but I can do most of the things I do with them using the HXDA and DG30.

I was thinking about selling the Fillmore because the DG does what I do with the Fillmore, only in a more unique way. The main reason I haven't is that I had mine made with custom appointments, like a leather covering, and loaded it with NOS GE preamp tubes that made it sound really, really good. But that stuff was costly.

So I would never be able to get the extra value I put in, because used amp buyers aren't paying extra for decor and most don't even know about NOS glass. In any case, it's probably smart to hang onto it.


My studio is in my condo. Yes, the amp is effective played loud, but the master volume works - I've had no complaints from neighbors since getting the amp in early 2014, yet I run my master at around 2:00 most of the time.

I'm guessing that it's either not all that loud, or my neighbors are deaf, or they don't care. Could be all three. ;)

What I saw Grissom say is when HE plays, it's always in boost mode. He only uses Normal mode if someone wants a more clean blackfacey sound, that Normal mode gets it sounding more like a Fender. But for his music and gigs at the Saxon, it's always in Boost mode.
 
What I saw Grissom say is when HE plays, it's always in boost mode. He only uses Normal mode if someone wants a more clean blackfacey sound, that Normal mode gets it sounding more like a Fender. But for his music and gigs at the Saxon, it's always in Boost mode.
Yes, he prefers boost mode live. I've talked with Doug Sewell about how Grissom runs the amp, and I've watched Grissom demo it.

On the other hand, the Master works pretty well in boost mode. Is it perfect? I dunno, I mean not only can you not drive the power tubes as hard with any MV, you're hot getting as much dirt from the speaker, and - we don't often think about this - you're not exciting the modes and reflections in the room as much. When you hear any amp live, you're hearing an awful lot of the room it's sitting in. Put any amp in an anechoic chamber and it's a different sounding amp! All that stuff counts and contributes to what you're hearing at the Saxon.

When you think about why you like certain venues you've played, or studios you've booked, some rooms just don't sound very good. Some are magic. We've all experienced this.

Also, Grissom uses feedback. When he solos, and even when he's chording, there's a lot of interaction between the guitar's pickups and the output of the amp, and you can definitely hear it if you're aware of what to listen for (you probably are). You're not getting that without considerable volume unless you're crazy close to the speakers.

So to think ANY amp will give you the Grissom tone without a bit of volume...for me, that's a non-starter. But YMMV.

I use the master volume when I'm in boost mode. Nonetheless, is it an amp made for the purpose of professional stage and studio use that sounds its ultimate, absolute best opened up?

Sure, but honestly, I think any amp sounds best with the master wide open, and the gain control used old-school, together with the guitar's volume and tone controls.

Perhaps this preference for big amps is an unfortunate, old-school thing I'm saddled with: I've always preferred a big-sounding amp opened up a little. I've tried to like the low power, home-use amps, and have had several, but was never able to hang onto an amp that didn't have the big-iron sonic weight, 'breathing ability' and headroom. Another thing is that I can't live with 1x12 cabs. I always need a 2x12 for the swirl.
 
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Well I can report the new (and by new I mean any model with the "K-Master" on it) models work GREAT. IDK how the MV works exactly, but I know it's a different design than pre-PI or post-PI MVs. It really works great for lower volumes/home use/smaller rooms. But you can also crank it... with the K-Master, the power tubes start getting involved when the K-Master is up about 12:00-1:00, and that's pretty loud.

For me, the Hot Cat Players Series (mine is from 2 years ago, not the brandy-new ones they just released) can work very well as both a gig AND a home amp.
 
For me, the Hot Cat Players Series (mine is from 2 years ago, not the brandy-new ones they just released) can work very well as both a gig AND a home amp.
I know nothing of K-Masters, but of course, there remains the room and the pickup/amp feedback interaction thing that's still missing.

I had one of the original Hot Cats. It's a fantastic sounding amp. Phenomenal.
 
Well I can report the new (and by new I mean any model with the "K-Master" on it) models work GREAT. IDK how the MV works exactly, but I know it's a different design than pre-PI or post-PI MVs.
It's actually something so cool that you wonder how it's possible that nobody came up with it before now!

When most people say they want power tube distortion, what they are really referring to is the PI tube overdriving. The power stage itself will normally stay clean until it hits the wall and compress after that, not distort and add OD. I'm assuming you know this... but it is said ALL the time so clearly many don't.

Only said that because of how the Kmaster works. What it does that is different, is reduce power to the PI stage as you turn it down. So as it's reducing volume, it's also reducing voltage to the PI tube. What this means, is that you can have your amp on 3, and still be overdriving that PI stage the same as when it was on 8. This allows you to reduce volume, without losing the OD that you were getting when pushing the back end of the amp really hard.

I have messed with power scaling some when I used to build and mod amps. Had an original Dana Hall power scaling circuit that he sent me. If you've ever tried amps that had some form of power scaling, there are several ways you can do it, with results that vary depending on the method. You can scale the whole amp, which is similar to just using a variac and reducing voltage. Or, you can scale just various stages, so you could leave the preamp exactly as it is and power scale only the power section. What he discovered, was that by scaling only the PI stage, he would retain the gain/drive/compression of a cranked amp at much lower volumes.

It is so brilliant that I'm surprised we haven't see more of it, but I think it might be patented.
 
It's actually something so cool that you wonder how it's possible that nobody came up with it before now!

When most people say they want power tube distortion, what they are really referring to is the PI tube overdriving. The power stage itself will normally stay clean until it hits the wall and compress after that, not distort and add OD. I'm assuming you know this... but it is said ALL the time so clearly many don't.

Only said that because of how the Kmaster works. What it does that is different, is reduce power to the PI stage as you turn it down. So as it's reducing volume, it's also reducing voltage to the PI tube. What this means, is that you can have your amp on 3, and still be overdriving that PI stage the same as when it was on 8. This allows you to reduce volume, without losing the OD that you were getting when pushing the back end of the amp really hard.

I have messed with power scaling some when I used to build and mod amps. Had an original Dana Hall power scaling circuit that he sent me. If you've ever tried amps that had some form of power scaling, there are several ways you can do it, with results that vary depending on the method. You can scale the whole amp, which is similar to just using a variac and reducing voltage. Or, you can scale just various stages, so you could leave the preamp exactly as it is and power scale only the power section. What he discovered, was that by scaling only the PI stage, he would retain the gain/drive/compression of a cranked amp at much lower volumes.

It is so brilliant that I'm surprised we haven't see more of it, but I think it might be patented.

I remember when Power Scaling came out, I first saw it on the Suhr Badger. It sounded too good to be true. I never played an amp with power scaling. And I don't see it on many (any?) other amps... did Suhr patent it? Yes the K-Master is awesome. It's not perfect, and a high-dollar attenuator (like the Fryette Power Station) might be better tonally?... the K-Master is really good at only 9:00, and only gets better as you turn up. It's the best MV circuit I've ever played, and that includes amps with built-in attenuators (I also have a Cornell Romany, and it's built-in attenuator really seems to work more like a headroom control than an attenuator.)
 
It's actually something so cool that you wonder how it's possible that nobody came up with it before now!

When most people say they want power tube distortion, what they are really referring to is the PI tube overdriving. The power stage itself will normally stay clean until it hits the wall and compress after that, not distort and add OD. I'm assuming you know this... but it is said ALL the time so clearly many don't.

Only said that because of how the Kmaster works. What it does that is different, is reduce power to the PI stage as you turn it down. So as it's reducing volume, it's also reducing voltage to the PI tube. What this means, is that you can have your amp on 3, and still be overdriving that PI stage the same as when it was on 8. This allows you to reduce volume, without losing the OD that you were getting when pushing the back end of the amp really hard.

I have messed with power scaling some when I used to build and mod amps. Had an original Dana Hall power scaling circuit that he sent me. If you've ever tried amps that had some form of power scaling, there are several ways you can do it, with results that vary depending on the method. You can scale the whole amp, which is similar to just using a variac and reducing voltage. Or, you can scale just various stages, so you could leave the preamp exactly as it is and power scale only the power section. What he discovered, was that by scaling only the PI stage, he would retain the gain/drive/compression of a cranked amp at much lower volumes.

It is so brilliant that I'm surprised we haven't see more of it, but I think it might be patented.
This is really interesting information! Thanks!
 
Thanks for all your responses. Only thing I can add at this point is to say that Dave & Doug spent over 2 years reviewing several of Dave's amps (his Tweed Deluxe, AC-30, modded 50W Plexi and HiWatt) and looked at various aspects of each...where compression and dynamics would balance, where clean and edge of breakup would occur and where distortion would sound best...

The reason for all my asking this is so I get to play "amp builder guy" for a few days with my Fractal FM9.

Based on your previous responses and viewing several DG YT interviews, I've selected a Tweed 5F1 EC and Tweed 5F8 Jumped on separate channels, and parallel to the Tweed amp(s), an AC-20 EF86 Bass amp model. (Will test drive the AC-20 Treble model later this week). Using Zilla 2x12 V30 57/121 stereo cabs.

With my DGT SE, the rig is very responsive to small volume knob tweaks and goes from clean at 6 to full on at 10. The boost/drive and lead (boost + drive) has some pretty gnarly distortion. It was necessary to turn my FRFR volume down, because the FRFRs were clipping. Yet, increasing your FM9 output doesn't cause the FRFRs to clip as much, so I went with that.

Dave also will use his coil-tap and turn down to 7 or so for cleaner picking, and will often use his neck pickup with this for a jazzier feel.

As part of this rig, I've added a "Trower Vibe", a Harmonic Tremolo (with envelope follower that decays as the note fades), a Rotary, a slap back delay and Music Hall reverb. Might add a chorus for use with cleans as well, but am watching my CPU usage limit just in case. Plenty of CPU usage remaining currently.

I think I might be able to delete several of my scenes so that the chorus can have its own scene. Will likely keep the Harmonic Trem and perhaps a Pan/Trem. The vibe and rotary do similar things to the trem blocks, so they may be extraneous...
 
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I remember when Power Scaling came out, I first saw it on the Suhr Badger. It sounded too good to be true. I never played an amp with power scaling. And I don't see it on many (any?) other amps... did Suhr patent it? Yes the K-Master is awesome. It's not perfect, and a high-dollar attenuator (like the Fryette Power Station) might be better tonally?... the K-Master is really good at only 9:00, and only gets better as you turn up. It's the best MV circuit I've ever played, and that includes amps with built-in attenuators (I also have a Cornell Romany, and it's built-in attenuator really seems to work more like a headroom control than an attenuator.)
There have been quite a few amps with power scaling, from several manufacturers. I think the original PRS 25th Anniversary amp (that the HXDA is based on) had it instead of a traditional master volume; here's a quote from the manual:

"This six position switch acts as a voltage divider in the phase inverter to incrementally reduce the drive signal going to the power tubes. The last position disconnects the switch from the circuitry, leaving the stock values unaltered. When running the amp wide-open, it is suggested to select the second position (one degree of attenuation) for extended tube life."

Since it's pre-power tube, I think it's more of a power scaler than an attenuator in the traditional sense.

There have also been amps with built-in attenuators; there was a single-ended amp that could take multiple power tubes that had it, I think maybe it was from VHT, which Steven Fryette used to work for or own. It was the first one I saw with what's now a typical "lunchbox" metal enclosure over the tubes. This was around 2000-2001-ish?

I remember going to look at it, but walking out the door with a Bogner Metropolis, another truly interesting amp that didn't get the props it should have.

I thought about buying the VHT, but I didn't like what the attenuator did. Un-attenuated that amp was pretty interesting, just not my thing.
 
Thanks for all your responses. Only thing I can add at this point is to say that Dave & Doug spent over 2 years reviewing several of Dave's amps (his Tweed Deluxe, AC-30, modded 50W Plexi and HiWatt) and looked at various aspects of each...where compression and dynamics would balance, where clean and edge of breakup would occur and where distortion would sound best...

The reason for all my asking this is so I get to play "amp builder guy" for a few days with my Fractal FM9.

Based on your previous responses and viewing several DG YT interviews, I've selected a Tweed 5F1 EC and Tweed 5F8 Jumped on separate channels, and parallel to the Tweed amp(s), an AC-20 EF86 Bass amp model. (Will test drive the AC-20 Treble model later this week). Using Zilla 2x12 V30 57/121 stereo cabs.

With my DGT SE, the rig is very responsive to small volume knob tweaks and goes from clean at 6 to full on at 10. The boost/drive and lead (boost + drive) has some pretty gnarly distortion. It was necessary to turn my FRFR volume down, because the FRFRs were clipping. Yet, increasing your FM9 output doesn't cause the FRFRs to clip as much, so I went with that.

Dave also will use his coil-tap and turn down to 7 or so for cleaner picking, and will often use his neck pickup with this for a jazzier feel.

As part of this rig, I've added a "Trower Vibe", a Harmonic Tremolo (with envelope follower that decays as the note fades), a Rotary, a slap back delay and Music Hall reverb. Might add a chorus for use with cleans as well, but am watching my CPU usage limit just in case. Plenty of CPU usage remaining currently.

I think I might be able to delete several of my scenes so that the chorus can have its own scene. Will likely keep the Harmonic Trem and perhaps a Pan/Trem. The vibe and rotary do similar things to the trem blocks, so they may be extraneous...
Well... lets hear it!
 
There have also been amps with built-in attenuators; there was a single-ended amp that could take multiple power tubes that had it, I think maybe it was from VHT, which Steven Fryette used to work for or own. It was the first one I saw with what's now a typical "lunchbox" metal enclosure over the tubes. This was around 2000-2001-ish?
Perhaps the THD Univalve? I've had several "form acquaintances" that owned those and really loved them.
 
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