String too thick for my trem bridge

[Mathias Eriksson]

Hi there,

So I recently had a guitar tech to re-string my guitar with some heavier gauge, from 0.9s to 0.11-0.59. He did all the main adjustments; nut, truss rod, intonation etc. But once I got home I noticed that the thick E string, (or the Drop C string in this case) doesn't really fit in the socket of the bridge correctly which is causing some very high action above the 12th freet. The neck in general was taking some beating after this recent changes and had been adjusted twice but still isn't in the best of places.

How can I fix this issue? I never thought that a 0.59, which is not even that thick in my opinion, should have this kind of problem.

 

[swede71]

Tja Matthias!Why dont you lower the saddle?

 

[Acnestes]

You need to widen the slot with either abrasive cord or a fine file, or have your luthier do it if you're not confident. It's a pretty simple job, though.

 

[AP515]

If you think you will ever go back to a 46 type gage then you may not want to widen the saddle. Just lower the height. If you know you are never going back, then carefully take a 59 gage round file to the saddle.

 

[Acnestes]

The thing with just lowering the saddle is that the string still isn't seated properly - it's "pinched" by the edges of the slot, so it's sitting on two points on either side of the center of the string instead of one on the bottom.
If it works out, then nice enough, but I think it might leave you prone to tuning/overtone/intonation problems.

 

[WEDGE]

Wonder if you can run a string through it to cut it into shape like a nut?

 

[Mathias Eriksson]

Tja Matthias!Why dont you lower the saddle?

Tjenare! I've actually tried that, but that resultated in less tension on the string, which was the main reason why I choose a 0.59 (they didn't have a 0.60 in stock) instead of the 0.54, because it lacked the right tension I wanted. So I don't know =/

You need to widen the slot with either abrasive cord or a fine file, or have your luthier do it if you're not confident. It's a pretty simple job, though.

What effect will that have if I ever decides to go back to a slender string? I probably wont go back to a 0.46 again, but at least get back to E standard someday.

If you think you will ever go back to a 46 type gage then you may not want to widen the saddle. Just lower the height. If you know you are never going back, then carefully take a 59 gage round file to the saddle.

I'm probably not going back to a 0.46, but at least something thinner someday, to get back to E standard but keeping the thickest strings possible since these are really growing on me. But thanks for the advice!

The thing with just lowering the saddle is that the string still isn't seated properly - it's "pinched" by the edges of the slot, so it's sitting on two points on either side of the center of the string instead of one on the bottom.
If it works out, then nice enough, but I think it might leave you prone to tuning/overtone/intonation problems.

That's what I was thinking, does this effect the tone? I think it sounds "fine" as it is, maybe a bit muddy, but that could still be the cause of the lack of tension still, which I don't think 0.59 is enough in drop c for my preference. And lowering the saddle will also cause even less tension. How are people usually dealing with these trem bridges in lower tunings? Just adjust the slot?

Wonder if you can run a string through it to cut it into shape like a nut?

Not without damaging I would think?

 

[Acnestes]

"What effect will that have if I ever decides to go back to a slender string? I probably wont go back to a 0.46 again, but at least get back to E standard someday."

It shouldn't have any more than switching from a .046 to a lighter string would have as long as you have a smooth curve at the bottom of the slot.

To do it right, you really need to widen the slot, As it is, it's making the string bend at a excessive angle and to one side because the string winding is a spiral. String height and string tension are a trade off, no way around it, so you're going to have to raise the saddle after widening the slot if you want it as it is, but the sting will be seated properly instead of hanging in the slot.

I've done it. Get some Mitchell's Abrasive Cord. Take the saddle out, clamp it in a padded vise. Thread the cord through just like a string and carefully floss away until you have the desired result. Only takes a few minutes. You can use a round file as well, but the cord will give a smoother surface and you should "finish" with it in any case.

 

[László]

I’d have the luthier widen the slot on the saddle, and I’d order spare saddles from PRS just in case you want to return the guitar to stock and they stop making that saddle down the road.

 

[gush]

I’d have the luthier widen the slot on the saddle, and I’d order spare saddles from PRS just in case you want to return the guitar to stock and they stop making that saddle down the road.

This