Loosening truss rod seemed twist the neck? PRS DGT content

[Dingola]

I think my PRS DGT truss rod might be messed up. I have adjusted its truss rod before without issue, but I usually tighten it to reduce relief. This time I was loosening it. (Btw I know which way to turn it and have done TR adjustments on my guitars several times. You add releif on a DGT by turning the truss rod toward the high E string side.)

Backing up a bit: The weather apparently caused all my guitars to need a little more relief. I loosened the truss rod on my Les Paul and 335 with no problem. Just a little bit worked. Turning their truss rods felt healthy - they didn't feel too tight to turn and or too loose, like it's not doing anything, as some guitars' truss rod seem to feel. It worked fine, giving it the relief they needed.

However, when I "loosened" my core model DGT's truss rod, it was tight to turn to turn for one thing. That's ok I guess, but as I attempted to loosen it (truning it towards the high E string) it's like I could feel the whole neck twist downward. When I say twisting, I swear I think I could even see the headstock twist downward and feel the whole neck kinda tense up. It didn't feel healthy, and it didn't seem to add relief. I didn't like how it made the neck feel, which seemed like it had more string tension and still no more releef.

Is this something you've off before? Is there a technique I need to do get it back to normal? Send back to PRS? I'm not the original owner.

 

[alantig]

I'd start with a local luthier just to confirm there's actually a problem. From there, you can determine if having the local guy fix it is in order, or if it needs to go back to PTC.

 

[JasonE]

PRS uses a dual action truss rod. It is possible that you have backed it off far enough that you are now in the section of the truss rod that is applying force in the other direction. It shouldn't cause any twisting of the neck. It should just apply pressure to it to create more of a bow in the neck, not twist.

 

[Dingola]

PRS uses a dual action truss rod. It is possible that you have backed it off far enough that you are now in the section of the truss rod that is applying force in the other direction. It shouldn't cause any twisting of the neck. It should just apply pressure to it to create more of a bow in the neck, not twist.

I wondered this too - whether I reached the max when loosening. So I tried to go the other way, tightening and then loosening again. I was conservative though. I will experiment more.

 

[JasonE]

I wondered this too - whether I reached the max when loosening. So I tried to go the other way, tightening and then loosening again. I was conservative though. I will experiment more.

There should be a spot where it turns easier in between the two directions it applies force to the neck. I don't know if your DGT is a core or SE model. The core guitars usually adjust pretty easy. The SE could take a little more effort to turn but I wouldn't expect it to be a large amount of effort. You can try loosening the strings then adjust it to see if that helps.

 

[Dingola]

There should be a spot where it turns easier in between the two directions it applies force to the neck. I don't know if your DGT is a core or SE model. The core guitars usually adjust pretty easy. The SE could take a little more effort to turn but I wouldn't expect it to be a large amount of effort. You can try loosening the strings then adjust it to see if that helps.

My DGT is a core model. I've never noticed it being tight before. Like I said, I've usually just tightened to get rid of relief. I will try what you suggested though.

 

[JasonE]

My DGT is a core model. I've never noticed it being tight before. Like I said, I've usually just tightened to get rid of relief. I will try what you suggested though.

It shouldn't take much of a turn to get it where you want it. When I lived up North I would have to tweak mine a couple of times a year and it was may up to 1/4 turn and that was it. I would think you should be able to dial it in with no more than a 1/2 turn.

 

[Dingola]

There should be a spot where it turns easier in between the two directions it applies force to the neck. I don't know if your DGT is a core or SE model. The core guitars usually adjust pretty easy. The SE could take a little more effort to turn but I wouldn't expect it to be a large amount of effort. You can try loosening the strings then adjust it to see if that helps.

It's a core DGT.

 

[Rider1260]

Capo at the first fret , hold the low e down at the last fret ( some like where the body meets the neck ) there should be just a small amount of daylight under the string at the 7th - 8th fret , I have felt some PRS where the truss rod was a bit tough to get started but they loosen up.
as you move it each direction there should be free spot where nothing seems to happen that's the slack spot.
Go slow likely fine.

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[deathworlder]

There should be a spot where it turns easier in between the two directions it applies force to the neck. I don't know if your DGT is a core or SE model. The core guitars usually adjust pretty easy. The SE could take a little more effort to turn but I wouldn't expect it to be a large amount of effort. You can try loosening the strings then adjust it to see if that helps.

I would suggest the opposite...tighten the strings.
If he's trying to add relief, that means the wood straightened moving the block and bound up the threads. By tightening the strings(inducing forward bow), you might relieve the pressure on the threads.

 

[JasonE]

I would suggest the opposite...tighten the strings.
If he's trying to add relief, that means the wood straightened moving the block and bound up the threads. By tightening the strings(inducing forward bow), you might relieve the pressure on the threads.

The reason I suggested loosening the strings is to be able to adjust the truss rod without the string tension on it because he said it was turning hard. It is a troubleshooting step to help diagnose why the truss rod is turning harder than it used to.

 

[deathworlder]

The reason I suggested loosening the strings is to be able to adjust the truss rod without the string tension on it because he said it was turning hard. It is a troubleshooting step to help diagnose why the truss rod is turning harder than it used to.

I made my suggestion for the same reason. Until now, OP has only had to tighten for adjustment; we can assume the wood between the blocks is highly compressed.

I'll explain my thought process...
Truss rods just don't up and go bad...what changed? The wood; It straightened. When it straightened, the blocks which stayed stationary along the rod(because no truss rod adjustment had been made) put enough force at the threads of the blocks to bind them up. Essentially, mother nature tightened the truss rod so much, the threads are now bound at the block(s). Let's get the wood back into a state where prior adjustment was possible.
Loosening the strings will straighten the neck wood further, further tweaking the threads at the blocks. By tightening strings, you relieve the pressure on the bound threads in the block of the truss rod.

 

[JasonE]

I made my suggestion for the same reason. Until now, OP has only had to tighten for adjustment; we can assume the wood between the blocks is highly compressed.

I'll explain my thought process...
Truss rods just don't up and go bad...what changed? The wood; It straightened. When it straightened, the blocks which stayed stationary along the rod(because no truss rod adjustment had been made) put enough force at the threads of the blocks to bind them up. Essentially, mother nature tightened the truss rod so much, the threads are now bound at the block(s). Let's get the wood back into a state where prior adjustment was possible.
Loosening the strings will straighten the neck wood further, further tweaking the threads at the blocks. By tightening strings, you relieve the pressure on the bound threads in the block of the truss rod.

Yep, I get that. The OP didn't really say if he was adjusting it with the strings under tension. I made the assumption, yes I know, that he was doing it with it tuned up. I was giving him an idea to change a variable to possibly learn more about why it is so much harder to turn. I have never had a PRS truss rod be difficult to turn. That includes core and SE models that I have worked on. I have only had issues with budget guitars when it comes to truss rods.

 

[Chef T]

Capo at the first fret , hold the low e down at the last fret ( some like where the body meets the neck ) there should be just a small amount of daylight under the string at the 7th - 8th fret , I have felt some PRS where the truss rod was a bit tough to get started but they loosen up.
as you move it each direction there should be free spot where nothing seems to happen that's the slack spot.
Go slow likely fine.

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I think this is the best course of action before making any more adjustments.

 

[Dingola]

OP here. Thanks to all for your suggestions. A few notes:

* I am/have been adjusting the truss rod while the strings are at standard tuning tension.

* I don't recall it being tight like this when I got the guitar. I would remember that due to the concern. I'm certain it was smooth adusting in the begginng. This is likely cause I usually just tighted to flatten the neck.

* Since I've posted, I've adjusted about every day. I've loosened and tighted a bit, being gentle, but it's still stiff and doesn't seem to be giving me relief. I think I will try to lossen the strings, as a couple have suggested, to remove tension completely and let the neck straighten to see if that unbinds the truss rod.

* My Firebird is acting the same way. I just adjusted it last night. It's very tight and it wasn't never like that before. To recap, i've adjusted a Les Paul and 335, as well. They were ok.

* Note also that I switch from 10 to 9 guage strings about four months ago. Not sure if this plays into it.

 

[JasonE]

OP here. Thanks to all for your suggestions. A few notes:

* I am/have been adjusting the truss rod while the strings are at standard tuning tension.

* I don't recall it being tight like this when I got the guitar. I would remember that due to the concern. I'm certain it was smooth adusting in the begginng. This is likely cause I usually just tighted to flatten the neck.

* Since I've posted, I've adjusted about every day. I've loosened and tighted a bit, being gentle, but it's still stiff and doesn't seem to be giving me relief. I think I will try to lossen the strings, as a couple have suggested, to remove tension completely and let the neck straighten to see if that unbinds the truss rod.

* My Firebird is acting the same way. I just adjusted it last night. It's very tight and it wasn't never like that before. To recap, i've adjusted a Les Paul and 335, as well. They were ok.

* Note also that I switch from 10 to 9 guage strings about four months ago. Not sure if this plays into it.

There is a little difference in tension between 9 and 10 gauge strings but it isn't huge. It typically only requires a slight tweak to the truss rod. I wouldn't expect that to be an issue.

I am wondering if you have had a really big humidity change that has affected the moisture in the wood. It is interesting that you have another guitar that is doing the same thing. That suggests something in the environment they are in is affecting them.