Why is my PRS SE Standard 24 not staying in tune after bending but returning to pitch after using the vibrato arm?

Lennon_Ashton

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Hello!

I have a PRS SE Standard 24 that I bought in 2020. It’s an awesome guitar, but there is a problem I’m having. When I do a bend (especially on the G string), the string goes flat. When I push down on the whammy bar and bring it back up, the pitch returns to where it was before the bend. I have had the nut filed and swapped the nut, and neither fixed this problem. Maybe there is a problem at the bridge. The original 4 springs are in the back, the bridge is 1/16” off of the body as expected (the factory specification), and the bridge is parallel to the strings. Has anyone else had this problem and found a solution? I’d appreciate any help or advice. Thanks in advance!
 
Have you ever changed the gauge?
Or changed the position of the claw by the screws? I guess there is a disbalance.
I think the original gauge from the factory was 9–42, and I use 10–46. However, the problem was there at the start too. And I've adjusted the claw in the back a few different ways to see if that would fix the problem, but whether the bridge is floating or decked, I have the same problem. That's why I'm wondering if the bridge height and the knife-edge screws are causing the problem.
 
Change the strings, go back to the factory setup. I have had 2 strings go flat on me suddenly lately, one a brand new set. I was in denial for awhile thinking it could not be the strings.
 
Hello!

I have a PRS SE Standard 24 that I bought in 2020. It’s an awesome guitar, but there is a problem I’m having. When I do a bend (especially on the G string), the string goes flat. When I push down on the whammy bar and bring it back up, the pitch returns to where it was before the bend. I have had the nut filed and swapped the nut, and neither fixed this problem. Maybe there is a problem at the bridge. The original 4 springs are in the back, the bridge is 1/16” off of the body as expected (the factory specification), and the bridge is parallel to the strings. Has anyone else had this problem and found a solution? I’d appreciate any help or advice. Thanks in advance!
I’d say that the string is hanging up on the G saddle. Either that, or the saddle is shifting.
 
Long shot, but a known issue with the se trem. Is the string ball seated all the way in the block? Check the G, maybe poke it from underneath or something. They get caught in the block.
 
Long shot, but a known issue with the se trem. Is the string ball seated all the way in the block? Check the G, maybe poke it from underneath or something. They get caught in the block.
This ^

I just replaced my SE trem with a complete John Mann brass trem system and all 6 string ball ends were stuck in the original trem block. I had a hard time poking them out with a screwdriver. Possibly the ball is not seated correct and is binding.
 
This ^

I just replaced my SE trem with a complete John Mann brass trem system and all 6 string ball ends were stuck in the original trem block. I had a hard time poking them out with a screwdriver. Possibly the ball is not seated correct and is binding.
I have the same problem with my SE Standard 24. Anyone know for sure why the ball ends get stuck in the trem? I also have a Strat and the ball ends have never gotten stuck in that trem.

I was also having tuning issues with mine even with the locking tuners I installed. Found a tech who knew what he was doing and he slightly widened the nut slots. I also blocked the trem off and now the guitar stays in tune very well.
 
I have a 2020 se std 24.

It was decent stock. That said..I immediately changed to the locking tuners (basically all I use) and for some, not having string wrap tighten and loosen up on the shafts may help. However at the same time on swapped out the white nut( I think the newer ones are the PRS ones) for a Tusq XL nut. At that point it was staying in tune very well.
About 2 weeks late I put the graphtec saddles on too. Some say that'll really kill the tone...and actually the saddles seem to move as one unit with the bridge. But I did it anyway and I can adjust to whatever sound my guitar gives.
I can go several hours and use the whammy as much as I want. Bar to the guitar top...total abuse. Maybe a tweak tune...but it's better than my Super Vee with locking nut and as good as any Floyd. I'm a whammy addict...and this little standard is my best setup....in my 60 years of playing. I really think it was the nut and no more than a half wrap on the tuners.
4 springs and I can pull up a semi tone. Drop down almost to slack.
Looking at the PRS trem design...I'm actually shocked it's so good.
I got the guitar a little while back at Dave's for $350 and it kills my Gibson and Fenders...all USA made. So with upgrades I'm into the guitar for $500 plus a decent lightweight Gator case instead of the gig bag stuff

It sounds like you've done the right stuff...so I'm probably not much help except a success story with the same guitar. ( the trans blue one)
 
When I replaced the trem on my SE SAS the 6 pivot screws from the factory were not all straight. Several were bowed meaning they rotated out of axis at the phillips head end. That means the knife edge of the bridge did not sit equally on each of the V-notches in the screws. This absolutely caused binding in my tremolo which kept the bridge from staying in tune.

The second thing I noticed is that the v-notch in some of the screws was incorrectly cut into the screw and did not provide the proper surface for the knife edge to pivot on. See the screw on the left. The new John Mann screws are lathe turned and perfect. See the screw on the right.
I suggest you invest in the Mann bridge.
 
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