SE Swamp Ash Special Nut Quality

John F

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Is the nut material on a 2023 SE SAS bronze impregnated same as the nut used on the core guitars? I’m not asking about size, just material. I looked at mine under magnification and it looks like plastic.

I researched the forum and people in the past had tuning stability and nut material issues so they replaced the SE nuts with core versions. I don’t want to replace the nut if the current one is the good one. I definitely want to replace the nut if it is made of the same material connected to my toilet to quote Paul.

I may order a pair of core nuts and replace it anyway as the high E string is cut very low when measured at the first fret.
 
I can see bronze flecks in the nut on my 2015 30th Anniversary Custom 24 core. No bronze flecks in the 2023 SE SAS nut.
 
At this point, it seems like PRS finally did the right thing and started using Core nuts on the SE guitars. Happened sometime after 2021, I think.
Not sure it's core nuts but for sure similar. It may be something like S pickups Vs Core pups. I read about someone doing a test and they were different in the drop test that Paul does too.
 
I can see bronze flecks in the nut on my 2015 30th Anniversary Custom 24 core. No bronze flecks in the 2023 SE SAS nut.
Well, maybe not, then. Not really sure. They definitely changed something about them. The product page just says, "Nut: PRS". That's for both SE, S2 and Core (unless it's a model that gets Bone).
 
Well, maybe not, then. Not really sure. They definitely changed something about them. The product page just says, "Nut: PRS". That's for both SE, S2 and Core (unless it's a model that gets Bone).
They definitely changed around early covid or maybe not too long before. I wanna say '21 is when we noticed.
 
Is this something that customer service would answer if asked? I actually sent an email off asking yesterday, no response yet.
 
Just got a reply:
"The SE string nuts are a proprietary blend of synthetic material; however, they are not bone."
 
I added more pencil graphite to the nut in my SE SAS last night because the tuning shifts during play. This is my only SE, none of my cores do this but they all have lockers too. I blocked the trem when I first got the guitar so it isn’t that. After Christmas this guitar is getting locking tuners, a complete Mann brass bridge and possibly a core nut if I can prove the core is different/better.
 
I added more pencil graphite to the nut in my SE SAS last night because the tuning shifts during play. This is my only SE, none of my cores do this but they all have lockers too. I blocked the trem when I first got the guitar so it isn’t that. After Christmas this guitar is getting locking tuners, a complete Mann brass bridge and possibly a core nut if I can prove the core is different/better.

Would you unblock the trem once you do the Mann bridge upgrade?

Report back if you change the nut! I haven't had any tuning issues so far with mine and I keep the bridge floating.
 
Would you unblock the trem once you do the Mann bridge upgrade?

Report back if you change the nut! I haven't had any tuning issues so far with mine and I keep the bridge floating.
I blocked the trem because of jumping in and out of drop D. Retuning takes too long and I’m too impatient. I would have purchased a hard tail if it was available.

I will remove the block when I install the new trem but probably reinstall it after a thorough test of it floating.

My SE SAS improved in sustain and became louder acoustically after the block was installed, I expect improvement with the brass trem installation.
 
I blocked the trem because of jumping in and out of drop D. Retuning takes too long and I’m too impatient. I would have purchased a hard tail if it was available.

I will remove the block when I install the new trem but probably reinstall it after a thorough test of it floating.

My SE SAS improved in sustain and became louder acoustically after the block was installed, I expect improvement with the brass trem installation.

Cool. Makes sense.

I just received the Musiclily brass block today. I know it's supposed to be an inferior product to the Mann, but it is a big mass of brass so hopefully it does the job. I can't imagine this guitar feeling more lively than it already does. I'm already so impressed by this thing stock.
 
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The brass block has got to help or they wouldn’t be so common in higher level guitars across lots of brands.
 
I looked with a magnifier at the nut in the SAS SE, a 2015 core Custom 24 and a 2016 PS Paul’s Guitar. All have the black PRS nut, but the core and PS have a different texture. They appear to have tiny flecks of brass or bronze whereas the SE looks like black plastic with tiny bumps.

I wish PRS would clarify on the parts page if the nut sold in the US is different material than the Indonesian part. Could help them to sell more of the US version as upgrade parts.
 
I wish PRS would clarify on the parts page if the nut sold in the US is different material than the Indonesian part.
Honestly I assume parts on a se are different. Everything typically is and considering the price difference, I'd hope that's the case. The only thing I can think if that's the same is the 594 bridge.
 
Given the answer I got from customer service regarding the SE nut material, I'm inclined to believe that some thought went into it and that it's not just any old plastic nut.

Also, if there's no tuning stability issue, it's probably fine to leave it, even though it's not that expensive to change out as @SinSir points out.
 
Well, I've been replacing the nuts on my SE's reflexively since I started playing the things maybe 15 years ago... Then I pulled the nut off my Egyptian Gold SE Santana Singlecut last year; it seemed different than what I'd seen on the older guitars and I drop tested it against the core nut I'd picked up from John Mann's Guitar Vault, and though they were different, the difference wasn't so pronounced that I felt the change had really been necessary... So when I picked up my SE SAS a few weeks back, I took one look at the nut and passed on an upgrade; I really don't think there's a need. And the trem on my SAS works so well out of the box that I haven't even bothered taking it for a setup; just tweaked it a bit myself during a restring and I'm good. It's a great guitar! My 2¢
 
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