Saddle screws

[gioforce76]

I few months ago I bought a Prs 513 and I never really set it up . It was missing and intonation screw so I bought those screws and the saddle screws . The only problem is , is that the screws in the saddles now will not move so I can’t set the guitar up properly. I think they are rusted in there and some of the screws my be stripped. Anyone ever have this happen , I really don’t want to have to buy a whole new set of saddles.

 

[jak3af3r]

I've had this happen on other guitars before. Every string change I pull all the saddles and soak them in lacquer thinner to loosen all the dirt and crud in the threads and slowly run the screws all the way in and out a few times.

I also don't adjust the intonation screws under full string tension to avoid possibly stripping heads.

 

[Alnus Rubra]

I've had this happen on other guitars before. Every string change I pull all the saddles and soak them in lacquer thinner to loosen all the dirt and crud in the threads and slowly run the screws all the way in and out a few times.

I also don't adjust the intonation screws under full string tension to avoid possibly stripping heads.

That’s a strict regime! Very impressed.

 

[Lacire]

I few months ago I bought a Prs 513 and I never really set it up . It was missing and intonation screw so I bought those screws and the saddle screws . The only problem is , is that the screws in the saddles now will not move so I can’t set the guitar up properly. I think they are rusted in there and some of the screws my be stripped. Anyone ever have this happen , I really don’t want to have to buy a whole new set of saddles.

If I understand you correctly it’s just the saddle height adjustment screws that are stuck and won’t move, so
This has worked for me in the past, thank Dan Erlewine.

1). Remove the saddles from the bridge
2). Put them in a jar and soak them in penetrating oil, just let them sit in it a few days.
3). Make sure the Allen wrench fits totally down inside each of the screws before trying to turn them, you may have to sand down the end of the Allen wrench to make sure that none of the flat sides are rounded off and then gently tap it into the screw. If it won’t bottom out you may have to clean out the rust and gunk out of the screw head with a small needle or a sharpened paper clip.
4). Don’t try to back the screw out through the dirty threads but run it forward and out through the bottom of the saddle.
5). Use more penetrating oil on the saddle threads and then turn the saddle over and run the Allen screws back through the saddle from the bottom of the saddle through the top to clean the treads out of each one.
6). Clean the penetrating oil off everything, screw the Allen screws back through the top of each saddle and reassemble the bridge.

 

[jak3af3r]

That’s a strict regime! Very impressed.

It's out of necessity. My frets usually turn green in between string changes too.

Lacrie's suggestion is the same method I use as per my dad's recommendation (he's a machinist).

 

[Alnus Rubra]

It's out of necessity. My frets usually turn green in between string changes too.

Lacrie's suggestion is the same method I use as per my dad's recommendation (he's a machinist).

How long do you have between string changes?

 

[jak3af3r]

It depends on the brand of strings. D'Addario regulars or the NYXL sets usually last about an hour before they're totally shot if I'm gigging. At home they might make it a week.

I end up using elixirs and those will eventually rust in the core and break. I might get a month out of those if it's a guitar I feel like playing a lot.

Edit:

Frets depend on material and polish level. If I polish with 0000 steel wool and then buff with buffing compound on a buffing wheel, the frets might start looking dull in a week or two. Just steel wool and the upper frets turn green in the same amount of time.

 

[Tucson Thump]

It depends on the brand of strings. D'Addario regulars or the NYXL sets usually last about an hour before they're totally shot if I'm gigging. At home they might make it a week.

I end up using elixirs and those will eventually rust in the core and break. I might get a month out of those if it's a guitar I feel like playing a lot.

Edit:

Frets depend on material and polish level. If I polish with 0000 steel wool and then buff with buffing compound on a buffing wheel, the frets might start looking dull in a week or two. Just steel wool and the upper frets turn green in the same amount of time.

Wow! That's a new definition of "working musician" that I hadn't considered. Good advice.

 

[Alnus Rubra]

It depends on the brand of strings. D'Addario regulars or the NYXL sets usually last about an hour before they're totally shot if I'm gigging. At home they might make it a week.

I end up using elixirs and those will eventually rust in the core and break. I might get a month out of those if it's a guitar I feel like playing a lot.

Edit:

Frets depend on material and polish level. If I polish with 0000 steel wool and then buff with buffing compound on a buffing wheel, the frets might start looking dull in a week or two. Just steel wool and the upper frets turn green in the same amount of time.

Jeezy peeps!

 

[jak3af3r]

Wow! That's a new definition of "working musician" that I hadn't considered. Good advice.

I do probably around 110 dates a year mostly 4 hour sets with breaks so approximately 330 hours give or take a few on stage performing. Plus practice time and time to test and tweak amps, pedals, etc. so I get a lot of time to run gear through paces but don't have any sponsorship because the work isn't "high visibility" or whatever social awareness level a company might warrant adequate for promoting their brand.

Jeezy peeps!

I've been like that since the day I started playing. Fortunately I never have to pay extra for aged hardware.

 

[Alnus Rubra]

Yeah, I’m like that too, I’ve noticed that a trem bridge I have, has taken on a vintage patina already!

I rotted the bridge pieces of a gigging guitar I used for several years!