NOS2000 Bridge - If I block the trem, should I leave the bridge mounting screws as is?

Crazybayman

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Given the required height that the NOS2000 bridge mounting screws are at (using the 2.5mm hexwrench as a gauge), should I leave that as is when block the trem? Or should I lower the screws until flush with the top of the bridge saddle surface?
 
Given the required height that the NOS2000 bridge mounting screws are at (using the 2.5mm hexwrench as a gauge), should I leave that as is when block the trem? Or should I lower the screws until flush with the top of the bridge saddle surface?

You can do it either way. I just put a MannMade trem on a Clapton Strat. The front edge of the trem is angled on the bottom. Clapton's have blocked trems as it is, so I didn't use the 2.5mm rule since that is really about getting it to float. I went as low as I could with the trem screws until the rear of the trem started to lift off the body because of the angled edge on the front. I'm not sure if I typed this very clearly, but if you look at the trem, I think you'll get it.

Bottom line, if you go too far with the trem screws, the back edge of the trem will lift, just like if you were depressing the whammy bar. Go to that point, and back off.
 
You can do it either way. I just put a MannMade trem on a Clapton Strat. The front edge of the trem is angled on the bottom. Clapton's have blocked tr9ems as it is, so I didn't use the 2.5mm rule since that is really about getting it to float. I went as low as I could with the trem screws until the rear of the trem started to lift off the body because of the angled edge on the front. I'm not sure if I typed this very clearly, but if you look at the trem, I think you'll get it.

Bottom line, if you go too far with the trem screws, the back edge of the trem will lift, just like if you were depressing the whammy bar. Go to that point, and back off.
Ok, great. That's kind of what I was thinking. Thanks!
Did it make much difference to the Strat?
 
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