Need to file my nut? And how?

An even more annoying problem with larger string gauges is when you start breaking strings at the tuning post. That's most often due to binding at the nut slot, holding the string in place. When you tune the string, all the tension builds up between the post and the nut rather than transferring through the nut to the bridge. Over tune that section and the string breaks at the post. The important part is making a proper adjustment to the slot. Too wide, or even worse too deep and you introduce additional issues such as string buzz.
 
Sorry to all for my "POS" remark. Shawn, the brass seems to be in the individual bridge string saddles. I filed down the front corner of the low "E" string saddle so it would be more confortable for my palm muting. What I found underneath sure looked like brass.

I am not a PRS hater! I'm a HUGE fan! I just have what seems to be a common complaint (see MoBirds post above). Never changed the string gauge, trem would detune guitar with just a whole step bend - right out of the box. That's not "dive bombing". Excuse me. Perhaps I'll take the guitar back to Kent Island and see if the SE setup team and correct things. I'll go away now...

-dh
 
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Sorry to all for my "POS" remark. Shawn, the brass seems to be in the individual bridge string saddles. I filed down the front corner of the low "E" string saddle so it would be more confortable for my palm muting. What I found underneath sure looked like brass.

I am not a PRS hater! I'm a HUGE fan! I just have what seems to be a common complaint (see MoBirds post above). Never changed the string gauge, trem would detune guitar with just a whole step bend - right out of the box. That's not "dive bombing". Excuse me. Perhaps I'll take the guitar back to Kent Island and see if the SE setup team and correct things. I'll go away now...

-dh

It's all good man. If you're having trouble with your guitar return it to your dealer. They may be able to assist you at the store, or they can send it back to the factory and we'll take a look at it.
 
Sorry if my original query caused a bit of a debate. That was not my intention.
Anyway, I slightly widened the slots of the nut with 1/1000 mm sandpaper (I think that's 1 micron, right?). I then added some Big Bends Nut Sauce borrowed from a friend. The tuning stability is slightly better now when using the tremolo but still not perfect. However, the strings are 2 weeks old by now and have been loosened twice during the filing process. So I'll restring the guitar this weekend and see if that makes a difference.
 
Sorry if my original query caused a bit of a debate. That was not my intention.
Anyway, I slightly widened the slots of the nut with 1/1000 mm sandpaper (I think that's 1 micron, right?). I then added some Big Bends Nut Sauce borrowed from a friend. The tuning stability is slightly better now when using the tremolo but still not perfect. However, the strings are 2 weeks old by now and have been loosened twice during the filing process. So I'll restring the guitar this weekend and see if that makes a difference.

You're getting close, BlueSky. To quote: "One micron is a millionth of a meter, so 535-micron sandpaper corresponds to the coarse 36-grit CAMI sandpaper, and 116-micron sandpaper is similar to 120-grit CAMI sandpaper. The 3-micron sandpaper is equivalent to 1,500-grit CAMI sandpaper, and 1-micron sandpaper is like 2,000-grit CAMI sandpaper." CAMI is Coated Abrasives Manufacturers' Institute. To polish the slots I used my .3 micron (after using 5 micron), so that would be close to 5000 grit equivalent. I didn't use anything like Nut Sauce. Working fine so far. :)
 
The USA nut is a drop in replacement and quite cheap. It sound daunting to replace, but there are great guides here and on the other PRS forum.

The original SE nuts are hollow plastic and are frequently tight in the higher string(s). If you don't wanna replace, you can also 'ream' the offending binding original slot with a guitar string, no worries.
 
This is just as much for any other casual reader of this thread as it may be for Dave H:

Hello? Like, everyone. The SE Custom 24 trems are the worst! Play a crappy Squire strat and the trem is useable. SE 24? POS. Useless. Worse than useless because it de-tunes the whole guitar. So, um, Mintzer, do own or have every played the guitar in question?
Like what others have said about their SE trems, I don't have any issues with the trem on my SE Akerfeldt, which should be otherwise identical to any other SE trem. It behaves the same as the trem on my (core) CU24 - stays in tune after bends and dive bombs and wiggles, etc.

It is possible something else other than the trem itself is wonky or needs adjusting (like widening the nut slots for bigger strings - yes, I read below, not your case) - or perhaps it is something with the trem set-up, like the knife-edge screws, that someone might have adjusted prior to you obtaining your guitar (there is a slim possibility I suppose that they may need adjustment from the factory, and didn't get adjusted/setup properly).

Sorry to all for my "POS" remark. Shawn, the brass seems to be in the individual bridge string saddles. I filed down the front corner of the low "E" string saddle so it would be more confortable for my palm muting. What I found underneath sure looked like brass.
I think as Shawn/others pointed out, the saddles might be brass, but the block is not, on SE trems.

Never changed the string gauge, trem would detune guitar with just a whole step bend - right out of the box. That's not "dive bombing".
Although unlikely, I will mention: You never changed the strings, but it is possible that whatever dealer you dealt with could have done something, including change the strings. Do you have a caliper to measure the string gauge?

I think if you take it back to the store you bought it at (if you bought locally) or just take it into a good local guitar shop, you might find there is something that can be done to correct your issue. Yeah, maybe it's a bad nut from the factory, or maybe the trem set-up got out of adjustment somehow from the factory setup.

Did you try something like Nut Sauce? I've never used it, but I've seen it suggested in many places...

Just a few suggestions. It must be frustrating, but I don't think the issues with bad nuts, etc, are as widespread as they may seem. The people with the problem will say something, those not having a problem will not have anything to say until a thread like this pops up and we're all like "huh? What nut problem?" Yeah, the SE nut could be better, but I understand why PRS chose to configure it the way they did - every tiny bit helps in getting to an affordable cost, and if they saved 50 cents doing that, and 50 cents in thirty nine other places, that's $20 material cost reduction - and that probably turns into $50 or more of the price. Maybe PRS should consider swapping over to the same nut as the US models, and if their cost delta is truly only 50 cents, they could charge $1 more and maybe the complaints would go away...or maybe they wouldn't...
 
I'm a bit late to the party, and am feeling a bit lazy right now not wanting to read all of the responses.

What I first did was try a nail file, which obviously didn't fit, so I grabbed a piece of sandpaper I had laying around, thinking perfect, but it was still too thick to get in to the B and e slots. So I went out and bought a $8 pack of "finishing" sandpaper (the thin stuff that clamps in to those blocks), and it fit. I sanded out a little bit and got the slots wide enough to slide strings in and out with ease. Unfortunately AGAIN, the strings were still getting pinched. I called around to a few local places, and they were all between $40-80 to modify or replace the nut.

In the end I bought a $6 tusq nut (on eBay - BLACK TUSQ XL NUT 43X6 ( 1 11/16" / 1/4") Product #: PT-6643-00), installed it myself after watching several youtube videos to try and minimize screwing anything up and have been absolutely happy since.

I know others have recommended the US nut, I personally only have only 1 guitar, and my impatience got the best of me (I literally only had $10 to my name, and I didn't want to wait another week or so for pay day before ordering it), so I have no experience with it. Had i had the $20 for it, I probably would have gone the US nut route, but I've been more than happy the last few months with the tusq :)

I would think the overall consensus is to just replace the nut though, it would be less of a headache and probably cheaper to replace the thing. Although, you might be able to find a place that'll replace it and give you a good professional setup for a decent price if its something you need.
 
Sometimes all they need is a little polishing. I took some fine fret polishing paper and wrapped it a round a thin feeler gauge. A few runs through the nut slot and some Nut Sauce and the grabbing was gone, with minimum material removed.

FWIW I had the identical problem with my Dlx Strat.
 
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