Intermittent 3-Way Toggle

CandidPicker

Tone Matters. Use It Well.
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Hi,

Was jamming with my PRS DGT SE today and noticed that the 3-way toggle switch is intermittent on the bridge pickup. Some De-Oxit contact cleaner should solve the problem, yes? Otherwise, do you recommend swapping out the SE switch for a Switchcraft metric 3-way short barrel? Am hoping the least invasive way works best, so will try the De-Oxit for the time being...
 
Yes, try De-Oxit.
No bueno? Replace.
After De-Oxit flick the switch numerous times rapidly.
Thanks. I asked my guitar tech buddy to put it up own his bench and take a look under the hood...seems to be OK now, but I've not spent time with the guitar since earlier this afternoon. Will need to check early next week. (Also ordered a Switchcraft 3-way toggle replacement from amazon just in case.) The wise course seems to be the least invasive one for now. If the problem persists, we'll swap out the SE toggle for the Switchcraft...
Maybe the tabs need to be retentioned if contact cleaner doesn't fix it.

Good luck.
I'm not sure I understand what you're saying...the De-Oxit seems to have solved the problem for the time...
 
Thanks. I asked my guitar tech buddy to put it up own his bench and take a look under the hood...seems to be OK now, but I've not spent time with the guitar since earlier this afternoon. Will need to check early next week. (Also ordered a Switchcraft 3-way toggle replacement from amazon just in case.) The wise course seems to be the least invasive one for now. If the problem persists, we'll swap out the SE toggle for the Switchcraft...

I'm not sure I understand what you're saying...the De-Oxit seems to have solved the problem for the time...
Sometimes you can just bend the tabs so they're tighter to the other contacts. Not sure what type of switch is in the SE though. Some switches are sealed and can't be retentioned.

Glad you got it working again.
 
If you brought it to the tech that was the perfect opportunity to replace a bad switch. It’s already on the bench and it will fail again. When I hear the detox solution to faulty pots/switches I alway imagine a can of De-Oxit duck taped to a guitar strap with a long hose going into the control cavity to “cure” those pesky pots/switches. We pay alot for these guitars throw those junky pots/switches away and put quality back in its relatively inexpensive to do and there‘s never that “gee I wonder when it’s going to fail again”. At the gig would be the answer. I know and get it these guitars are new so they’re supposed to work right out of the box. Not always the case with the import lines PRS and others. My 02 cents.
 
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If you brought it to the tech that was the perfect opportunity to replace a bad switch. It’s already on the bench and it will fail again. When I hear the detox solution to faulty pots/switches I alway imagine a can of De-Oxit duck taped to a guitar strap with a long hose going into the control cavity to “cure” those pesky pots/switches. We pay alot for these guitars throw those junky pots/switches away and put quality back in its relatively inexpensive to do and there‘s never that “gee I wonder when it’s going to fail again”. At the gig would be the answer. I know and get it theses guitars are new so they’re supposed to work right out of the box. Not always the case with the import lines PRS and others. My 02 cents.
Thanks for your reply. Currently, my preference is to take the least invasive approach and work with the De-Oxit for the time. I do not know if the switch was faulty in itself, but it may have merely been the contact, which the De-Oxit is designed to clean. If in fact the switch may in the future prove faulty, then certainly, a replacement will be made. A Switchcraft 3-way toggle was ordered from amazon in case the existing switch might fail. If it does, I'll be able to fix the problem with my tech friend's help. (This might cost me another bottle of cabernet and a meatloaf...time to plan ahead...)
 
Sometimes the 3 way on my SE Bernie Marsdens shorts itself out against the black conductive paint that is used inside the round toggle switch cavity. It's a real PITA. There's nothing wrong with the switch but it'll rotate a little...just enough for one of the terminals to short out against the paint.
 
Sometimes the 3 way on my SE Bernie Marsdens shorts itself out against the black conductive paint that is used inside the round toggle switch cavity. It's a real PITA. There's nothing wrong with the switch but it'll rotate a little...just enough for one of the terminals to short out against the paint.
That may have been the problem originally...the switch was situated at an unusual angle that was more horizontal than angled or vertical...and the nut was loosened and the switch rotated slightly to allow for a better angled orientation of the switch...maybe re-orienting/tightening the switch back towards what it was will solve part of the problem...?
 
That may have been the problem originally...the switch was situated at an unusual angle that was more horizontal than angled or vertical...and the nut was loosened and the switch rotated slightly to allow for a better angled orientation of the switch...maybe re-orienting/tightening the switch back towards what it was will solve part of the problem...?
Well if that is the problem you can always wrap some electrical tape around the circumference of the switch so the terminals and/or wires can't short against the paint.
 
Well if that is the problem you can always wrap some electrical tape around the circumference of the switch so the terminals and/or wires can't short against the paint.
IF the tape can be applied without breaking solder contact! I may try to slide in some tape between the switch and the conductive paint later tonight. Will let you know how things work out Monday early afternoon...

EDIT: 3-way toggle was loosened, removed from access hole. Fabric electrical tape applied on the inside conductive paint cavity where toggle was making contact. (Tape does not stick well...may need to consider alternative tape solutions; possibly the glossy electrical kind...). 3-way toggle replaced; tightened. Will test Monday and recheck the tape for adhering quality...

EDIT 2: Noted that @Lewguitar did say wrap around the switch, not tape to paint...will check later tonight...
 
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It’s pretty simple to replace it. I usually do switchcraft Usa. Never had the intermittent issue once soldered correctly. Cheap parts are bound to have compromises …
 
It’s pretty simple to replace it. I usually do switchcraft Usa. Never had the intermittent issue once soldered correctly. Cheap parts are bound to have compromises …
Thanks, have got a USA Switchcraft part on order, and may swap it out if the previous suggestions fail to solve the problem.

Was able to remove the switch from its access hole again this evening, clean out the fabric electrical tape, and wrap the SE switch with 3M Scotch Electrical Tape so at to prevent contact with the conductive paint. Also re-adjusted the switch's orientation to decrease the possibility of conductive paint contact with the switch's moving parts.

Will test the DGT SE Monday early afternoon. Tomorrow is looking to be a fully booked schedule, so I'll need to make the best use of my time. It may be late Monday evening before a report can be made.
 
Just thought to ask while this is still a question of mine...

How difficult is it to remove the old 3-way toggle, de-solder the contacts, and install a new toggle? My guitar tech buddy is away on holiday, and the only time I've ever tried soldering was once, with some DPDT switches.

One wise thing to do might be use my iPad and capture a photo of the old 3-way's wiring, just so re-wiring won't be guesswork.

According to Switchcraft, the new toggle comes pre-tinned for easier soldering. Not having much experience with soldering myself, on a scale of 1 to 5, 1 being easy, how might you rate the difficulty level of this project, if it were up to me to do the work?
 
Just thought to ask while this is still a question of mine...

How difficult is it to remove the old 3-way toggle, de-solder the contacts, and install a new toggle? My guitar tech buddy is away on holiday, and the only time I've ever tried soldering was once, with some DPDT switches.

One wise thing to do might be use my iPad and capture a photo of the old 3-way's wiring, just so re-wiring won't be guesswork.

According to Switchcraft, the new toggle comes pre-tinned for easier soldering. Not having much experience with soldering myself, on a scale of 1 to 5, 1 being easy, how might you rate the difficulty level of this project, if it were up to me to do the work?
Ime not very hard but it could be somewhat difficult I suppose if your experience is limited. As you mentioned, take a pic before disassembly.

I'd leave the old switch in the guitar with some slightly moistened rags/paper towels around the cavity to protect the finish. Then I'd de-solder the wires and finally remove the old switch.

Then I'd install the new switch into the guitar and fasten in place. After that I'd attach the wires without solder and plug into an amp to make sure the switch operates how it should. If it does, then I'd solder the wires in place, double check functionality, and close it all up.

That's just me though so let's see what others recommend.

Either way, good luck.
 
I figured it out as a novice. But it is hard to solder the ground if you’re not experienced. If you are hesitant than I would suggest waiting. Typically the PRS SE switch is not wired like typical switchcraft. You will have to increase the lead wires length to make proper contact.
 
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