I'm ready to try the "partial split mod" with my CE22

Lewguitar

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I just ordered two PRS push/pull 500K pots.

One to mess up and one to keep nice.

I did a search on the forum and found this diagram. It calls for a 1.1K resistor to ground on the neck pickup and a 2.2K resistor to ground on the bridge pickup.

The idea is that the slug coil of each pickup humbucker remains fully on, while the screw coil is turned partially off but not completely off.

How much of the screw coil remains "on" is determined by the value of the resistor.

 
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The PRS one works great. But you have to install your own resistors. Kind of wish they came pre-installed but I believe that is only available in the drop in kits
 
I’ve used bourns and CTS. No issues with either. You could also change it up and go for push/push. Loved it in on my strat.
I had that on a Strat too. But the switch seemed to go bad sooner than it should have. It was a long time ago. Maybe I was rough with it.

In any case, I ordered PRS pots and they'll be here Monday.

Been planning this a long time!
 
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I am pretty sure this is how the PTC wired my CU22. I know my DGT has resistors in it and I think my 594 has them as well. It has been a while since I was in the cavity of the 594. I just looked in the DGT about a week or so ago so I know it has them. I am also sure that my CU22 has them. They did that work in 2009.
 
Just realized when looking at your wiring diagram that my recently acquired McCarty with the HBSP90's doesn't have the 180 pf cap on the volume pot. They're Fralin pickups, but I should probably put one in there. That or a Kinman style treble bleed. What do you think?
 
Just realized when looking at your wiring diagram that my recently acquired McCarty with the HBSP90's doesn't have the 180 pf cap on the volume pot. They're Fralin pickups, but I should probably put one in there. That or a Kinman style treble bleed. What do you think?
Either. I don't really understood the purpose of adding a reisistor to the bright cap. I guess it helps with the "taper" of the pot so it doesn't turn down the volume abrubtly or all in one place or something.

I'm a hobbiest not an electrical engineer.

Paul seems to think a single 180 pf cap across the volume pot sounds good. He doesn't use the resistor there, right? Does he use it on any guitars as part of the "treble bleed" to retain highs when volume is turned down?

The way Paul does it works well and sounds fine.

Just a cap.

But if you feel like tinkering...

 
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Either. I don't really understood the purpose of adding a reisistor to the bright cap. I guess it helps with the "taper" of the pot so it doesn't turn down the volume abrubtly or all in one place or something.

I'm a hobbiest not an electrical engineer.

Paul seems to think a single 180 pf cap across the volume pot sounds good. He doesn't use the resistor there, right? Does he use it on any guitars as part of the "treble bleed" to retain highs when volume is turned down?

The way Paul does it works well and sounds fine.

Just a cap.

But if you feel like tinkering...

Thanks Lew,
I did a little experiment with the Kinman type cap and resistor and a pair of alligator clips. Might be a bit too bright, so I've ordered some 180 pf resistors. I'll probably try all three combinations before committing. I'm thinking that Paul probably knows best, though. Not sure why someone removed the original cap. My SE's all have them and sound good.
 
Thanks Lew,
I did a little experiment with the Kinman type cap and resistor and a pair of alligator clips. Might be a bit too bright, so I've ordered some 180 pf resistors. I'll probably try all three combinations before committing. I'm thinking that Paul probably knows best, though. Not sure why someone removed the original cap. My SE's all have them and sound good.
That's me too. You need 180 pf capacitors though - not resistors.

Silver Mica preferred. That's what I use although it probably doesn't make a difference.
 
You're right. I misspoke. I did order capacitors.
I used Lindy Fralin's "volume kit" on the volume pot of my Strat. It's a 0.002µF Capacitor and a .200 Resistor in parallel.

I can only say that it works well and does not sound sizzley.

I like what it does on a Strat.
 
I used Lindy Fralin's "volume kit" on the volume pot of my Strat. It's a 0.002µF Capacitor and a .200 Resistor in parallel.

I can only say that it works well and does not sound sizzley.

I like what it does on a Strat.
Might be a good one to try, since I have single coils.
 
The single treble bleed capacitor across the input and output of the volume pot bleeds highs to the output as the pot is turned down. When placing a parallel resistor across the same treble bleed cap, that creates an amount of full signal bleed across the pot based on the value of the resistor. It’s a way of smoothing out the treble bleed effect by adding in a bit of the rest of the signal. Choose the resistor value to taste. A nice way to test this is to solder a variable resistor across the treble bleed to turn it until you hear what you like, then unsolder one side of the varistor and test the set resistance value with a multimeter. Then replace with a fixed resistor of your desired value and it’ll be bulletproof.
 
Just realized when looking at your wiring diagram that my recently acquired McCarty with the HBSP90's doesn't have the 180 pf cap on the volume pot. They're Fralin pickups, but I should probably put one in there. That or a Kinman style treble bleed. What do you think?
I used the Kinman bleed.
I tried out all three types of bleed and preferred Kinman because it allowed a smoother taper on the volume pot, and I thought it sounded better.
 
I used the Kinman bleed.
I tried out all three types of bleed and preferred Kinman because it allowed a smoother taper on the volume pot, and I thought it sounded better.
I've never tried the Kinman method. Think I will this time.

The parts are supposed to get here Monday so next week I'll rewire this ax one last time.

I hope!
 
I've done the Kinman type several times now and liked it on my strats and also with my Seth Lovers in a couple different guitars. I used a 1000pf cap and a 125k resistor. Right now my Seth's are in a SE singlecut and sound good with the standard cap only, so since that's the standard PRS way I plan to do the same on my McCarty when the caps get here.
 
I used the Kinman bleed.
I tried out all three types of bleed and preferred Kinman because it allowed a smoother taper on the volume pot, and I thought it sounded better.
Yes. The Kinman (series resistor) method won’t alter your pot sweep, very good point. It’s a partial treble bleed. Very cool!
 
Since I had a Kinman type already made up I just put it in my McCarty with the HSP90's. Wow, you'd be forgiven for mistaking it for a strat as far as clean tones. I did a little A/B back and forth with my strat doing my best imitation of "Little Wing" and "Lenny ". I have the same Kinman type bleed in the strat and they sound very similar. On just the neck pickup the P90's are just a bit fatter sounding. Of course they are single coils. The taper on the volume pot is about perfect. The P90's are much louder, though! I think I'll still try the single 180pf cap when it comes, just because. I'm virtually always playing with the volume rolled back a bit here at home.
 
I've never tried the Kinman method. Think I will this time.

The parts are supposed to get here Monday so next week I'll rewire this ax one last time.

I hope!
Just wondered if you'd rewired it yet and how it worked out. I'll be rewiring My McCarty here eventually and will definitely do the partial split with the resistors. One thing I've noticed about PRS, though, is it's as if they try to make it confusing by changing their color codes around. My 57/08's have a red wire for splitting the coils, but the McCarty diagram shows a white wire. As if that wasn't enough the neck pickup hot wire is white and the bridge hot is black. Not sure why they do that, rather than having the same color hot and ground like most pickup companies.
 
Just wondered if you'd rewired it yet and how it worked out. I'll be rewiring My McCarty here eventually and will definitely do the partial split with the resistors. One thing I've noticed about PRS, though, is it's as if they try to make it confusing by changing their color codes around. My 57/08's have a red wire for splitting the coils, but the McCarty diagram shows a white wire. As if that wasn't enough the neck pickup hot wire is white and the bridge hot is black. Not sure why they do that, rather than having the same color hot and ground like most pickup companies.
There was a delay shipping the pots and resistors and they won't be here until next week. I had to buy 200 resistors! 100 1.1K and 100 2.2K for the partial split. Anybody need a resistor or two?
 
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