FX / Amp Diagnosis?

[CandidPicker]

Hi,

This is my recently re-worked FX board, and amp. Just a few minutes ago, I checked out the FX board against the amp. All worked well, except for about 20 minutes into practice, the amp began cutting out (volume drop, thin tone, then varied volume again).

Not sure what to make of it, I put the amp in standby, and plugged directly into it, to be sure it wasn't a tube problem. Nope, the amp played correctly plugged directly in.

Another thought might have been a bad wiring connection at the FX level. Didn't recheck my connections, but also thought it might have been due to my stepping on the instrument cable that was plugged into the FX board. Cleared my instrument cable away from underfoot. Ah, signal again.

Am concerned that the problem may be more than the instrument cable. What is the correct procedure for diagnosing cable and FX continuity if perhaps there might be a short in my cable/FX signal path?

(Currently own a Behringer cable tester that can check ¼" cable.) Begin with the instrument cable here?

EDIT: Just spoke with my amp tech. He suggested checking each effect when the signal drops, wiggling cable and power connections. Also suggested spraying some De-Oxit into the cable and power connections (wait to dry before powering up, obviously). Said it might be one of the effects itself, rather than the cable or power connections. (Hope not, my effects are relatively recent and shouldn't be that questionable). Also, the instrument cable checked out OK.

EDIT: Am letting the FX board and amp idle on standby for 45 minutes to determine if the volume / signal drop can be reproduced in testing. Will report findings once idle test has completed in 25 minutes time.

 

[bodia]

You're on the right track, and your tech gave you solid advice. Tricking since it is an intermittent problem. Going one at a time until you have the issue could take a lot of time. Good news though; I had your exact same issue and it was a patch cable.

 

[CandidPicker]

Not sure what to tell you folks...

My amp tech suggested performing an idle/standby test with my FX and amp, then if the volume drop and tone loss could be reproduced in a test scenario, then check each effect for connection continuity.

I asked him if corrosion might be a concern regards the effects' connection and power jacks, suggesting spraying some De-Oxit might serve as preventive maintenance. The tech said it wouldn't hurt and might solve the problem than comparably trying to diagnose each connection individually.

De-Oxit in, wiped excess away, allowed to dry briefly. Connections tightened, all plugged in. Power on, allowed to idle for 50 minutes on standby.

Results? Tested with my S2 SC Standard. All is well. Unknown volume drop/tone loss reason still a mystery, but problem solved.

That was weird. Couldn't explain the sudden volume drop and tone loss, but problem solved.

 

[CandidPicker]

You're on the right track, and your tech gave you solid advice. Tricky since it is an intermittent problem. Going one at a time until you have the issue could take a lot of time. Good news though; I had your exact same issue and it was a patch cable.

Could have been. Also checked my Immerse Reverb and made sure the Kill/Dry switch was set for common 'series' instead of 'parallel' for FX loops.

The De-Oxit apparently was enough preventive maintenance along with connection tightening. Seems that when the FX board is moved around from place to place the solder-less patch connections often loosen up.

Note to self: Always remember to tighten solder-less patch connections whenever relocating FX Board.

 

[Tremontinator]

Hi,

This is my recently re-worked FX board, and amp. Just a few minutes ago, I checked out the FX board against the amp. All worked well, except for about 20 minutes into practice, the amp began cutting out (volume drop, thin tone, then varied volume again).

Not sure what to make of it, I put the amp in standby, and plugged directly into it, to be sure it wasn't a tube problem. Nope, the amp played correctly plugged directly in.

Another thought might have been a bad wiring connection at the FX level. Didn't recheck my connections, but also thought it might have been due to my stepping on the instrument cable that was plugged into the FX board. Cleared my instrument cable away from underfoot. Ah, signal again.

Am concerned that the problem may be more than the instrument cable. What is the correct procedure for diagnosing cable and FX continuity if perhaps there might be a short in my cable/FX signal path?

(Currently own a Behringer cable tester that can check ¼" cable.) Begin with the instrument cable here?

EDIT: Just spoke with my amp tech. He suggested checking each effect when the signal drops, wiggling cable and power connections. Also suggested spraying some De-Oxit into the cable and power connections (wait to dry before powering up, obviously). Said it might be one of the effects itself, rather than the cable or power connections. (Hope not, my effects are relatively recent and shouldn't be that questionable). Also, the instrument cable checked out OK.

EDIT: Am letting the FX board and amp idle on standby for 45 minutes to determine if the volume / signal drop can be reproduced in testing. Will report findings once idle test has completed in 25 minutes time.

Tech support line be like: Did you try turning it off and back on again?

 

[László]

I had some weird intermittent signal issues when I still used George Ls. I loved the ability to have exactly the lengths I needed, but wasn’t crazy about the problems. I switched to soldered cables, and used the very fine PRS interconnect cables - they have an extremely low capacitance of under 25 of per foot, and they work and sound great. Unfortunately, the way my boards have been set up, the lengths weren’t working (Many of my cable routings require 2-3 feet of length, and some need straight plugs on one end and right-angle plugs on the other).

So for a couple of years I had Lava make up Van den Hul stuff custom, but Lava went through a thing and weren’t responding, so I switched to having my board cables made by Sinasoid, and have had them use the Evidence Audio cable. Both the Van den Hul and Evidence have very low capacitance, too. Sinasoid’s doing a great job, the cables all have strain relief reinforcement under the barrel, and they’re very well assembled and soldered.

I also had Sinasoid make extra-long, heavy guage power and power extension cables sheathed in nylon braid called flex-tech, and they use Hubbell hospital grade plugs with them. These plugs are very strong, and are field-serviceable. They put another layer of strain relief over the flex-tech. I think these cables could survive a direct nuclear blast (well, ok, not really, but they’re very strong ).

This makes the cable runs very tough, and they use heavier-gauge wire to make them. While it’s probably intended for stage use, it sure works well in the studio, where I often set my pedalboard up 15 feet from the power supply, and need the cable to lay flat and not be damaged if I step on it. There have been zero problems with these.

They also will sheath signal cables in this stuff, making them less susceptible to damage by being stepped on. These are great for runs from pedalboard to amp, but for me the flex-tech is a little too stiff for the connection to the guitar. So I’ve had them simply make me custom lengths of the Van Damme cable that PRS uses to make theirs.

I know, this way is more expensive, and so on, but I get custom lengths and plug orientation, exactly the cables I need for the job, and tremendous signal integrity - not one has gone bad in the years I’ve gone back to soldered cables, and in my studio they see plenty of use. I never have to worry about a cable shorting out during a session, something that’s especially important in view of the deadlines I work under, sometimes with clients in the room.

If, however, I wanted the do-it-yourself cables, the ones that seem to have the most solid connections are the Evidence Audio brand. The plugs literally screw onto the solid wire in the cable, and lots of folks swear by them, including professional board builders.

Nonetheless, give me soldered cables with adequate strain relief wrapping any day. Problems are avoided. That’s why so many touring pros insist on soldered cables. Here’s my obsessively-wired pedalboard showing a few of the soldered cables I had made up; the connections to the pedals on the bottom row are all straight connectors, but they’re hidden by the top tier of the pedalboard. You can see the black strain relief heat-shrink peeking out from the metal barrels; the strain relief goes all the way down to the exposed ends that get soldered.

On the right side of the board there’s a patchbay that several of the pedals are connected to with cable runs of 2-3 feet; the patchbay allows me to interrupt the pedal chain and insert external devices, which is one reason I need to have custom cables made up. If you’re handy with a soldering iron, you could do it yourself much less expensively, but I’d rather pay someone else to do the work, as it’s been quite a few years since I’ve been busy with a soldering iron.

“So Les, by ‘quite a few years’ you mean you haven’t soldered any cables in this century?”

“Erm...uh...well, actually, I haven’t soldered a cable since I hired a studio tech back in...uh...”

“The 1980s?”

“Sounds about right.”

 

[CandidPicker]

...If, however, I wanted the do-it-yourself cables, the ones that seem to have the most solid connections are the Evidence Audio brand. The plugs literally screw onto the solid wire in the cable, and lots of folks swear by them, including professional board builders.

I'd not mind checking these out...though it might be a while before considering any purchase...EDIT: These look very similar to LavaCable Tightrope my board has...would be interested to know if they are more reliable than the Tightrope solder-less variety...

...Here’s my obsessively-wired pedalboard showing a few of the soldered cables I had made up; the connections to the pedals on the bottom row are all straight connectors, but they’re hidden by the top tier of the pedalboard. You can see the black strain relief heat-shrink peeking out from the metal barrels; the strain relief goes all the way down to the exposed ends that get soldered.

On the right side of the board there’s a patchbay that several of the pedals are connected to with cable runs of 2-3 feet; the patchbay allows me to interrupt the pedal chain and insert external devices, which is one reason I need to have custom cables made up. If you’re handy with a soldering iron, you could do it yourself much less expensively, but I’d rather pay someone else to do the work, as it’s been quite a few years since I’ve been busy with a soldering iron.

“So Les, by ‘quite a few years’ you mean you haven’t soldered any cables in this century?”

“Erm...uh...well, actually, I haven’t soldered a cable since I hired a studio tech back in...uh...”

“The 1980s?”

“Sounds about right.”

Time for me to re-read all that, though I like how well the board looks clean and tidy...if not slightly large to my tastes...just curious, what does the little "thought cloud" switch do?

(FTR: the problem with my FX was likely a shorted connection, but Les heard something else and wrote a book. Note to self: "Don't mention electrical shorts in a post unless expecting a very lengthy detailed response.")

 

[CandidPicker]

Tech support line be like: Did you try turning it off and back on again?

Erm, that's usually standard procedure for a device that's a little wonky...not sure FX board shorted connections qualify as standard procedure.... They do elicit some interesting responses, though...

 

[László]

...just curious, what does the little "thought cloud" switch do?

It’s a standard latching switch.

I got it to switch channels on my Lone Star and save space on my old pedalboard, but I rarely need to do that, because I almost never switch channels on that amp; I just switch to a different amp.

So I’ve mostly used it to activate the echo bypass in my tape echo; it’s an Echoplex clone that Fulltone makes, and the way my room is set up, it sits pretty far away from the pedalboard.

Apologies for my wordy post. I tend to overdo posts.

The Lava and Evidence are similar but different in the way the plug attaches to the cable. In the Lava it pops in and is tightened with a very short twist. The Evidence plug screws onto the solid copper wire, creating a threaded connection, like a screw. Both are good, the Evidence has more threaded turns onto the wire.

Both need the braided outer wire to be completely separated from the center wire to work, and that’s possibly the weak link. That outer braided piece simply is held in place mechanically by the sleeve. Under strain, I think a little bit of braid can break off and work its way into the hollow plug connection, causing a short.

A soldered connection with strain relief seems to have more reliability, because the outer wire can be tinned to prevent pieces coming loose, and of course, both wires are soldered in place to prevent movement and disconnection when the wire gets moved or twisted.

But even soldered connections aren’t foolproof. Strain relief jackets help.

Too much information again, right?

 

[CandidPicker]

...The Lava and Evidence are similar but different in the way the plug attaches to the cable. In the Lava it pops in and is tightened with a very short twist. The Evidence plug screws onto the solid copper wire, creating a threaded connection, like a screw. Both are good, the Evidence has more threaded turns onto the wire.

Both need the braided outer wire to be completely separated from the center wire to work, and that’s possibly the weak link. That outer braided piece simply is held in place mechanically by the sleeve. Under strain, I think a little bit of braid can break off and work its way into the hollow plug connection, causing a short.

A soldered connection with strain relief seems to have more reliability, because the outer wire can be tinned to prevent pieces coming loose, and of course, both wires are soldered in place to prevent movement and disconnection when the wire gets moved or twisted.

But even soldered connections aren’t foolproof. Strain relief jackets help.

Too much information again, right?

No, you're good. Since LavaCable has had its production/communication issues these past few years, my question would be, does the Evidence cables use the same small plastic wire cutter technology that LavaCable used? (Pretty nifty tech, and does well if one knows how to work with it).

If it's that easy, and the Evidence plug threads onto the copper wire, that seems like it would at least be a stronger connection than a simple push-attachment. (It's small device design tech that fascinates me, elegant designs that work well and last longer than similar designs. Apparently, Evidence used LavaCable's design and improved upon it, much to the chagrin of LavaCable)

Would it makes sense to place a heat-shrink plastic jacket around the solder-less connections? I think Evidence's solder-less design might be improved upon if one could slide a piece of hollow heat-shrink tube on the wire before putting the plug together, then slide the plastic tube over the potion where the wire/plug meet, and use a hair dryer or similar device to heat-shrink the tube into place. Obviously, check your continuity before doing this with a cable tester. One could build much more reliable connector cables this way, perhaps?

This evening I thought to give a shout-out to amazon.com's customer service department. Had purchased a small musical gear item that wouldn't do what it was supposed to (a release mechanism failed to function correctly). Amazon stepped up to the plate and said they'd replace the item free charge, without the need for returning the item. (Currently own a piece of non-functioning metal tubing that will be put in the recycle bin once the replacement item arrives.)

 

[László]

No, you're good. Since LavaCable has had its production/communication issues these past few years, my question would be, does the Evidence cables use the same small plastic wire cutter technology that LavaCable used? (Pretty nifty tech, and does well if one knows how to work with it).

If it's that easy, and the Evidence plug threads onto the copper wire, that seems like it would at least be a stronger connection than a simple push-attachment. (It's small device design tech that fascinates me, elegant designs that work well and last longer than similar designs. Apparently, Evidence used LavaCable's design and improved upon it, much to the chagrin of LavaCable)

Would it makes sense to place a heat-shrink plastic jacket around the solder-less connections? I think Evidence's solder-less design might be improved upon if one could slide a piece of hollow heat-shrink tube on the wire before putting the plug together, then slide the plastic tube over the potion where the wire/plug meet, and use a hair dryer or similar device to heat-shrink the tube into place. Obviously, check your continuity before doing this with a cable tester. One could build much more reliable connector cables this way, perhaps?

This evening I thought to give a shout-out to amazon.com's customer service department. Had purchased a small musical gear item that wouldn't do what it was supposed to (a release mechanism failed to function correctly). Amazon stepped up to the plate and said they'd replace the item free charge, without the need for returning the item. (Currently own a piece of non-functioning metal tubing that will be put in the recycle bin once the replacement item arrives.)

I don’t know what the Evidence kits come with. I’ve seen the Lava kits, and demos of both, but went back to soldered cables several years ago, so my knowledge is limited.

The Lava tool is a 99 cent, readily available, standard cable stripper, it isn’t proprietary to Lava.

I have a larger electrician’s tool that does the same thing with more gauge options, that also automatically scrapes off the sheathing, and it cost maybe 12 bucks. So, cheap thrills, right?

I don’t know if the Evidence stuff came out before or after Lava’s design. Both seem to have improved on GeorgeL’s - I think they were the first?

I doubt heat shrink would fit into these no-solder plugs. In fact, to my disappointment, Lava once sent me soldered cables using their little plugs, instead of the G&H plugs I ordered, and couldn’t even fit the rubber sheath into the plugs, leaving bare wire exposed when the cable flexed.

No idea what they were thinking, but I’d ordered the cables right when communication with them became a problem, so I gave up. I realized I needed to move to another supplier. Sinasoid has been great. I think the finished goods are an upgrade from Lava for the same or less dough.

 

[CandidPicker]

I don’t know what the Evidence kits come with. I’ve seen the Lava kits, and demos of both, but went back to soldered cables several years ago, so my knowledge is limited.

The Lava tool is a 99 cent, readily available, standard cable stripper, it isn’t proprietary to Lava.

I have a larger electrician’s tool that does the same thing with more gauge options, that also automatically scrapes off the sheathing, and it cost maybe 12 bucks. So, cheap thrills, right?

I don’t know if the Evidence stuff came out before or after Lava’s design. Both seem to have improved on GeorgeL’s - I think they were the first?

I doubt heat shrink would fit into these no-solder plugs. In fact, to my disappointment, Lava once sent me soldered cables using their little plugs, instead of the G&H plugs I ordered, and couldn’t even fit the rubber sheath into the plugs, leaving bare wire exposed when the cable flexed.

No idea what they were thinking, but I’d ordered the cables right when communication with them became a problem, so I gave up. I realized I needed to move to another supplier. Sinasoid has been great. I think the finished goods are an upgrade from Lava for the same or less dough.

I think I've got a cable stripper device (along with some distillate lacquer remover known as Homer Formby's furniture stripper ) that would do the job for the Evidence cable, though the LavaCable cable stripper is just easier to use: small cut sheathing, plastic surrounds. Only thing it won't do is cut copper wire. Enter regular wire stripper.

Regards the progress my FX board has made over the years; was once a fan of George L's, then discovered LavaCable. I'd stick with LavaCable if it weren't for their spotty customer service record. Have bookmarked the Evidence Audio page on my computer, and will likely look after Sinasoid if they provide a solder-less design with a better track record than LavaCable.

Just got back from my amp tech who swapped out my V30 for a Neo Creamback. We called it an even swap for labor considering I had no use for the old speaker and his labor charge was priced cheap.

The tech experienced a slight problem trying to get the amp chassis back in when he pushed past the the flap of tolex inside the combo amp. We needed to glue the tolex edge back down before we could slide the chassis back up where it could be put back in place and secured. Other than that the speaker and chassis went back together and now sits in my living room.

Was hoping to try to put a 30Hz signal thru my amp via Audacity for the next 25-30 hours to break the speaker in, also courtesy my audio interface, but I've no instrument outs from my audio interface and the alternative would be using a reamping device.

(The wise man sayeth, "Just play thru the dang amp for a while to break in the speaker...") (Or ask around locally for a couple friends who might loan me use of their reamping device for about a week in exchange for a cheeseburger dinner plate)

Anyway, have put out feelers for a reamping device to borrow for about 10 days. Am not inclined towards handing over my dinero for a device I'd only ever use once for 10 days then need resell. And, no, I'm not the type who'd buy then return an item for a project with a 30-day return window.

 

[CandidPicker]

...Was hoping to try to put a 30Hz signal thru my amp via Audacity for the next 25-30 hours to break the speaker in, also courtesy my audio interface, but I've no instrument outs from my audio interface and the alternative would be using a reamping device.

...Anyway, have put out feelers for a reamping device to borrow for about 10 days. Am not inclined towards handing over my dinero for a device I'd only ever use once for 10 days then need resell. And, no, I'm not the type who'd buy then return an item for a project with a 30-day return window.

Good news regards my replacement amp speaker...

Most all gear sales reps said that a reamping device was necessary for utilizing my audio interface with my guitar amp. Most all performing/recording guitarists said to just use Audacity to create a 30Hz tone for several hours and record that as an mp3 which could be stored in iTunes, and use the headphones out of the audio interface and keep the level low during several sessions until 20 to 25 hours time is completed.

Gotta love using the correct tools in the correct hands.

 

[CandidPicker]

...The Lava tool is a 99 cent, readily available, standard cable stripper, it isn’t proprietary to Lava...

Just a thought, Les,

Are the LavaCable small yellow wire strippers found at places like Home Depot or Lowes? Wouldn't mind locating a couple of these to put into my equipment bag just in case of open-mic quick repairs...

 

[László]

Just a thought, Les,

Are the LavaCable small yellow wire strippers found at places like Home Depot or Lowes? Wouldn't mind locating a couple of these to put into my equipment bag just in case of open-mic quick repairs...

https://www.toolusa.com/products/te-00021?utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Google Shopping&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIu-eXos-w4QIVgZJbCh3_0A1fEAkYCCABEgJsMPD_BwE

I found several places on the web, they’re not hard to find. I saw one wholesaler offered a bag of 20 of the yellow ones for $36, but they’re generally available in lots of colors because they’re cheap plastic gadgets.

Here’s a little nicer one from Walmart.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Monopric...MIsv_NvNGw4QIVWv7jBx1ZsAMpEAkYBiABEgLbmvD_BwE

 

[CandidPicker]

https://www.toolusa.com/products/te-00021?utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Google Shopping&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIu-eXos-w4QIVgZJbCh3_0A1fEAkYCCABEgJsMPD_BwE

I found several places on the web, they’re not hard to find. I saw one wholesaler offered a bag of 20 of the yellow ones for $36, but they’re generally available in lots of colors because they’re cheap plastic gadgets.

Here’s a little nicer one from Walmart.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Monopric...MIsv_NvNGw4QIVWv7jBx1ZsAMpEAkYBiABEgLbmvD_BwE

Thanks, Les,

Amazon has a 6-pack of these multi-colored little guys for about $8. I think amazon also offered individual ones for $1.50, thereabouts. Not in need of these just now, but will put these in my wishlist for future reference.

 

[László]

Thanks, Les,

Amazon has a 6-pack of these multi-colored little guys for about $8. I think amazon also offered individual ones for $1.50, thereabouts. Not in need of these just now, but will put these in my wishlist for future reference.

If it’s me (and what I do), I spend 12 bucks and get a nice, dependable tool. The little plastic ones are truly junk, which is why they cost so little.

I’ve had my cable stripper for about 25 years. It’s still operating like new. I actually do use it for repairs not only for the guitar and studio stuff, but general work around the house.

What most players do is take a couple of spare cables to a gig to use if a cable goes bad, and do their cable building and repair work at home. Sure takes a lot less time while an audience is waiting. I guess I don’t see much need for a cable stripper for a gig bag, unless you’re touring. Just my two cents.

 

[CandidPicker]

If it’s me (and what I do), I spend 12 bucks and get a nice, dependable tool. The little plastic ones are truly junk, which is why they cost so little.

I’ve had my cable stripper for about 25 years. It’s still operating like new. I actually do use it for repairs not only for the guitar and studio stuff, but general work around the house.

What most players do is take a couple of spare cables to a gig to use if a cable goes bad, and do their cable building and repair work at home. Sure takes a lot less time while an audience is waiting. I guess I don’t see much need for a cable stripper for a gig bag, unless you’re touring. Just my two cents.

Ah.

I use my old PRS canvas gig bag for holding stuff like strings, surge protectors strips, instrument cables, zip ties, wire wrap, adhesive tabs, spare amp tubes, fuses, string winders, picks, small wire clippers and needle nose pliers, etc...also some spare Tightrope cable and pre-built LavaCables, as well as a my Behringer cable tester, gaffer's tape, electrician's tape, spare Boss 9VDC adapter...

I personally own a decent wire stripper, but find it difficult to keep in my gear equipment bag regards urgent repairs for open-mic gigs. (Size-wise, other stuff could use removal from equipment bag to free up space).

I usually have several spare cables already built that I just check for continuity and plug in if ever an existing cable shorts out or goes bad. Downside is, I've only one or 2 long cables, but plenty of short ones. The more distant FX on the board are the ones I'd be concerned about; they're the ones that the cables would likely go bad, not the closer proximity cables...Perhaps it might behoove me to build some longer cables just for this reason...

 

[László]

Ah.

I use my old PRS canvas gig bag for holding stuff like strings, surge protectors strips, instrument cables, zip ties, wire wrap, adhesive tabs, spare amp tubes, fuses, string winders, picks, small wire clippers and needle nose pliers, etc...also some spare Tightrope cable and pre-built LavaCables, as well as a my Behringer cable tester, gaffer's tape, electrician's tape, spare Boss 9VDC adapter...

I personally own a decent wire stripper, but find it difficult to keep in my gear equipment bag regards urgent repairs for open-mic gigs. (Size-wise, other stuff could use removal from equipment bag to free up space).

I usually have several spare cables already built that I just check for continuity and plug in if ever an existing cable shorts out or goes bad. Downside is, I've only one or 2 long cables, but plenty of short ones. The more distant FX on the board are the ones I'd be concerned about; they're the ones that the cables would likely go bad, not the closer proximity cables...Perhaps it might behoove me to build some longer cables just for this reason...

Yeah, it’s good to have a couple of longer spare cables. I have the PRS black nylon gig bag with the blue lining - is that the one you have? It’s a great one!

I keep a couple of 25 foot cables, a couple of 20 footers, and 5-6 short interconnects in the bag, plus a wire cutter (for strings), spare tubes, spare fuses, strings, a screwdriver with a reversible shaft that can be either Phillips head or slot head, an extra expression pedal for my Suhr chorus, a spare tuner, an isolation box in case of strange hum, a spare power cord, a microfiber cloth in case of spills, a spare speaker cable, picks, and a couple of the little guitar tools that come in the case of a PRS. Oh, and a nickel, in case one of the tuner thumbscrews is too tight if I need to change a string.

“Seriously, Les, in the past 50 years, have you needed to change a tube, change a string, or even use the damn tools during a session or performance?”

“No. I once had a cable go bad when a guy accidentally yanked it. But you know, Semper Paratus!”

 

[CandidPicker]

Yeah, it’s good to have a couple of longer spare cables. I have the PRS black nylon gig bag with the blue lining - is that the one you have? It’s a great one!

Yeah, that's the one, though I've removed the interior lower section (not sure where the heck it is now) and most all of my immediate gig needs in there.

I keep a couple of 25 foot cables, a couple of 20 footers, and 5-6 short interconnects in the bag, plus a wire cutter (for strings), spare tubes, spare fuses, strings, a screwdriver with a reversible shaft that can be either Phillips head or slot head, an extra expression pedal for my Suhr chorus, a spare tuner, an isolation box in case of strange hum, a spare power cord, a microfiber cloth in case of spills, a spare speaker cable, picks, and a couple of the little guitar tools that come in the case of a PRS. Oh, and a nickel, in case one of the tuner thumbscrews is too tight if I need to change a string.

“Seriously, Les, in the past 50 years, have you needed to change a tube, change a string, or even use the damn tools during a session or performance?”

“No. I once had a cable go bad when a guy accidentally yanked it. But you know, Semper Paratus!”

I think most of that stuff sits in my PRS bag for quick access. Ditto on having cables go bad. That seems to be my prevalent issue regards attending open-mics. Everything else is just younger-day Boy Scout training: "Be Prepared!"

Remind me to keep some spare mic cables in there in case the jam host could use an extra he might not have on hand...