Fractal FM3 / FC12 / EV-1s / Temple Audio Duo 17 & 34

If I win the lotto, I’m buying you an Axe Fx, Mr S.

I've had experienced session players use them on my tracks, because there are times someone I want to work with is in another state or far enough that it just wouldn't work to have them come here. Since some don't have a good place to record, I don't mind if they have to use an Axe FX, despite my preference.

I might love the playing, and I can mess with the tone with reverbs, delays, EQ and compression to more or less get the tone I want. But it ain't the same as a real amp.

So if you win the lottery, just invite me to your gigantic new mansion in Texas with the million dollar studio attached, and let me work there on a project!! Seriously, if I wanted an Axe FX (or Helix or Kemper), I'd have one in my studio rack already.

The time will come soon enough that I won't be physically able to move my gear around. This worries me for any number of reasons, not least of which is that being old already sucks, and being very old sucks even more, but maybe then I'll need a modeler. Though I have several software modelers I use as scratch pads.
 
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Fixed it for ya. :)

Tube amp, possibly awesome.

Modeler, possibly almost awesome. There's still a difference. And there are levels of good to bad in both, depending on the product!

There are too many variables.

However, I'm under the impression that for the most part, the original intention was that this should be a PRS amp forum. It says on the site, "Discuss PRS Amplifiers, CAD Amplifiers and PRS SE Amplifiers." It doesn't say to talk about amps you use with your PRS.

I've violated that spirit myself, so I can't cast aspersions on others.

But I wouldn't blame PRS if they were to express a preference for discussion of their own products.

"You'd go ballistic if you were PRS, wouldn't you Les?"

"I go ballistic if I drop a sock on the floor when I'm getting dressed. What else is new? People around me should wear ballistic nylon armor just to be on the safe side."

"What happens when you go ballistic?"

"My wife tells me to calm down."

"Do you?"

"I say yes. She says no."

Les, I'd give you a clue as to how this will all play out, but it seems that's what most people are doing these days (looking for a clue). The clue involves modifying the board with a step-down drill bit and a rubber grommet.

Yes, it’s all in the ear… what you want, or expect to, hear. You know, we grew up with it. Tube amps are how guitar is supposed to sound. But it’s really interesting to talk with younger players now (which might mean full grown adults) who have never used a tube amp, or an amp at all. They are looking for other sounds, other “realities” you could say. Reality leaves a lot to the imagination, as Lennon once said. So, if there’s a difference at all, it may not be one that matters. Unless it does. :confused:

I love having both. Really love it. It’s expanded the options dramatically for me. If I win the lotto, I’m buying you an Axe Fx, Mr S.

Thanx, guys. That's why I've stepped away from this forum in order to discuss Fractal products. Once my rig is complete, I'll post things for you to see. It'll be neat and clean-looking. The build work will be a couple weeks away once financing is secured, but I assure you, the wheels are currently in motion regards this project.
 
Glad you’re getting it where you need it to be!

The CPU percentage display is the primary CPU, the one handling blocks and such. Most times, keeping that below 80% is safe. Above that, it may work but can introduce some instability. There is a second CPU that isn’t shown that handles things like the USB bus, controllers, and other utility stuff. Some really heavy users like Fremen on the FAS Forum have managed to trip up the system on CPU 2, but us regular mortals rarely know it’s there!

The Axe Fx III has 4 times the CPU, so my meager demands have never stressed it at all. I used to have an AX8 that had similar CPU with the FM3 and I never ran that one over either, except when testing with a lot of massive reverbs in an already loaded setup. For normal things I actually used, I was never in any danger there. But it is a good thing to keep an eye on while building presets.

Appreciated, Rick,

I've consolidated most of my presets' reverbs and delays by employing a Plex Reverb/Delay block in parallel to the signal path. Although I don't recall the Fractal forum member's name, he walked us through his choice of reverb/delays that save about 25% CPU usage with the Plex block.

Regards my pedalboard build, I've adopted a "wait and see" attitude until I hear back from Temple boards regards their IEC Power Module connection design flaw. Currently installing a power module requires modifying either the board surface with drill-outs, or cable cutting and re-soldering.

I'd prefer to simply assemble the board with no modifications required, but I did a good deed by suggesting to customer service that they could take credit for the design flaw correction. One only need widen one or more of the upper access holes where the power module cable inserts, and no mods would be necessary. The result would be a neater, cleaner board.

As was said previously, my mechanical abilities needed for modifying this project aren't up to snuff. I think metal shop in junior high was where I learn to assemble small engines, but as memory serves their liquid degreaser tank caused a massive skin reaction. The teachers allowed me to join the mechanical drawing class rather than continue with metal shop.
 
Seriously, if I wanted an Axe FX (or Helix or Kemper), I'd have one in my studio rack already.

Ok Les, but I'm just sayin', given his chances of winning the lottery, your chances of getting one for free were looking pretty good. Before. :D

What is that saying about a gift horse? "It's just a hand, in the bush. In the bush. In the bush..."
 
For any of you folks who know about car mechanics, it was suggested that before you take any vacation or road trips, to write up a maintenance checklist.

1- Start engine, listen while idling for any unusual sound.
2- Brakes. Be sure these are in good working order. If you need to stop and find a new route you can do so quickly with good brakes.
3- Check the horn. You don't need a foghorn or bicycle squeaky horn. Just be sure that when you need it, it can warn the kid who had darted on into the roadway while playing ball.
4- Battery. Be sure your battery is charged, and holds a charge.
5- Spare tire. We all have one, or something of this type, in case you might need to change a flat.

This is what I meant about not being mechanical. Although this is something anyone can do, I let my regular mechanic do my car work. I'm not good with small engines at all. I even cried when my toy rubber-band wind-up balsa airplane crashed into splinters.

I'm currently working on finding some amp preset's "sweet spots," where the clean amp is just on the verge of break-up. There are several videos that teach how to do this that suggest to use a recorded track and use your ears while dialing in a tone. This technique is useful for tweaking on the fly. Be sure you don't have a steering wheel protruding from your fly. ;)

I usually give things a chance to work correctly. I don't get frustrated when things don't. If that is ever the case, I usually reach for a cuppa warm milk and a cookie and call it a day.
 
For any of you folks who know about car mechanics, it was suggested that before you take any vacation or road trips, to write up a maintenance checklist.

I've never done this. However, I do have a mental checklist for before I go play softball.

-uniform. Check
-Glove. Check
-Spikes, Check
-Bat bag with bats, balls batting gloves, and all accessories, Check
-Chewing tobacco, Check
- 12 pack of Coors light for after game celebration, Check!
-Jockstrap. NFW!

Not sure how this relates to the thread, but sometimes I post random things...
 
I've never done this. However, I do have a mental checklist for before I go play softball.

-uniform. Check
-Glove. Check
-Spikes, Check
-Bat bag with bats, balls batting gloves, and all accessories, Check
-Chewing tobacco, Check
- 12 pack of Coors light for after game celebration, Check!
-Jockstrap. NFW!

Not sure how this relates to the thread, but sometimes I post random things...

For you, it's fun and games. Me, it's all in how we say it. Will have a little wine for my stomach later on today, life has been stressful.
 
For you, it's fun and games. Me, it's all in how we say it. Will have a little wine for my stomach later on today, life has been stressful.

Fun, yes, but I've always taken my sports pretty seriously. The list above was "embellished" to add the beer and tobacco. :)
 
Fun, yes, but I've always taken my sports pretty seriously. The list above was "embellished" to add the beer and tobacco. :)

Concur.

In other news, with some inspiration from some brothers on the Fractal Forum, I've removed the rubber feet from my Fractal units. My gut tells me that this might introduce some electrical grounding issues since the feet originally provided insulation before. ( A keeper, not a flipper...) ;)

To counteract that, some 2" x ⅛" foam rubber adhesive tape was ordered that will line either side of the larger Fractal units, and the top/bottom of my expression pedals. This will restore any insulation properties to the units' chassis that removing the rubber feet will not provide.
 
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Curious. What was the purpose of this change???

To provide a level bottom surface to which adhesive attachment plates can be secured without compromising stability. Removing the rubber feet (which were originally a raised surface) will allow for a level surface when the attachment plates will be installed. Some 2" x ⅛" neoprene foam weatherstripping will be added to provide a cushioned insulated surface that will supplement the attachment plates that secure the units to the board.

My boards will include the XLRMOD MM and FM modules. I've selected to avoid using the IEC Power Module because it will compromise the board's integrity and might introduce hum > cable cutting/re-soldering.

Temple Audio has a design flaw which I've suggested a solution to their R&D team for future designs. The IEC Power module plug won't fit thru the upper access holes.

The IEC Power module is intended to connect to a dedicated power supply (Voodoo Lab, CIOKS, etc) which connects to the FM3 via IEC cable that requires access hole widening, and/or shaving down some of the rubber plug.

https://www.templeaudio.com
 
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The IEC Power module is intended to connect to a dedicated power supply (Voodoo Lab, CIOKS, etc) which connects to the FM3 via IEC cable that requires access hole widening, and/or shaving down some of the rubber plug.

https://www.templeaudio.com

It looks to me like their end panels have the option of adding an accessory IEC receptacle with an extender to plug into a power supply, so I'm not sure I get what you're saying.

However...if not...

I have an alternative idea to modding the board or shaving the plug, and thereby compromising its function. Cut the plug off the IEC cable, thread it through the hole, and then attach one of these field-serviceable, hospital grade plugs. Hospital grade plugs have greater ability to resist weather, chemicals, and the prongs provide a very solid connection to the outlet. These are only 10-11 bucks. Hubbell are the best known brand for this type of plug.

https://www.amazon.com/Hubbell-5266...bf448&pd_rd_wg=P0K6W&pd_rd_i=B009EC6XF6&psc=1

You might want to use some shrink wrap for additional strain relief. I like to have any cables that are going to lay on the floor wrapped in TechFlex braided nylon for additional strength, plus the techflex helps the cables lay flat on the floor.

For convenience, but also to get custom lengths and gauges (I like 14 ga) to suit a variety of needs, I have Sinasoid make them up that way. Admittedly I spend a lot for them, but a good DIY person can just as easily do it very inexpensively.

This is a link to what my finished cables look like, though I use the Techflex in different shades to color-code what they're plugged into.

https://www.sinasoid.com/Sinasoid-Premium-Power-Cables-p/rt-sin-pwr-edi-iec.htm
 
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It looks to me like their end panels have the option of adding an accessory IEC receptacle with an extender to plug into a power supply, so I'm not sure I get what you're saying.

This is correct. The smaller Duo 17 has 2 small ports, one either side, and 2 larger ports, one either side. The IEC Power Module is designed (something I wasn't aware of) to power a power supply with a female IEC Plug. Various power supplies are built with a male IEC jack that accept female IEC plugs. The other end of the IEC Module is a larger IEC male jack that fits into one of the 2 smaller ports described earlier. It is not possible (without modifying the board and/or female IEC plug) to fit the female IEC. plug through the access holes on the surface of the board.

I have an alternative idea to modding the board or shaving the plug, and thereby compromising its function. Cut the plug off the IEC cable, thread it through the hole, and then attach one of these field-serviceable, hospital grade plugs. Hospital grade plugs have greater ability to resist weather, chemicals, and the prongs provide a very solid connection to the outlet. These are only 10-11 bucks. Hubbell are the best known brand for this type of plug.

https://www.amazon.com/Hubbell-5266...bf448&pd_rd_wg=P0K6W&pd_rd_i=B009EC6XF6&psc=1

You might want to use some shrink wrap for additional strain relief. I like to have any cables that are going to lay on the floor wrapped in TechFlex braided nylon for additional strength, plus the techflex helps the cables lay flat on the floor.

For convenience, but also to get custom lengths and gauges (I like 14 ga) to suit a variety of needs, I have Sinasoid make them up that way. Admittedly I spend a lot for them, but a good DIY person can just as easily do it very inexpensively.

This is a link to what my finished cables look like, though I use the Techflex in different shades to color-code what they're plugged into.

https://www.sinasoid.com/Sinasoid-Premium-Power-Cables-p/rt-sin-pwr-edi-iec.htm

The sentiments are appreciated, but my electrical and soldering technique is woefully inadequate. It was decided to simply allow the board to rest as it exists with the IEC power cable plugged directly into the power jack on the FM3.

The good news I can share is that both boards are all but complete. My schedule Monday will take me north some miles to visit a hardware store that has an extensive selection of machine screw hardware parts, several display walls and aisles of them, to be exact.

Instead of using adhesive plates for the FC12 foot controller, 6/40 gun screws replaced the existing machine screws. My hope is to do the same with the FM3, and remove the adhesive plates off the reverse of the FM3, clean it up, and attach the FM3 with either the gun screws and washers, or wait until Wednesday when nylon M3.5 - .60 8mm Philips screws will arrive. (It seems a bit overkill here...a bag of 100 amazon screws for $7.99 when I'll need only 8 or more....will likely donate the rest to our local hardware whose supply of unusual size parts is lacking...)

The EV-1 Expression pedals will likely receive the same treatment...will match the existing screws with replacement ones and will ask my woodworker brother to assist flexing the pedal so the perforated surface holes line up with the screw wells. (We were successful with this for the FC12's one misaligned hole, using a 6mm allen wrench through the perforated surface hole while flex-forcing the FC12's screw well into position. He held his flashlight phone and flexed the board against the FC12 while I installed the screw. The screw well lined up and it was possible to install the gun screw and washer.).

Woodworker brother will arrive again midweek. Nylon screws will have arrived by then, so the only thing the hardware store trip will be for is more washers and EV-1 replacement screws. Last point of order is the TRS>TRS ¼" right angled EV-1 cables. Images likely by Thursday evening or Friday.
 
This is correct. The smaller Duo 17 has 2 small ports, one either side, and 2 larger ports, one either side. The IEC Power Module is designed (something I wasn't aware of) to power a power supply with a female IEC Plug. Various power supplies are built with a male IEC jack that accept female IEC plugs. The other end of the IEC Module is a larger IEC male jack that fits into one of the 2 smaller ports described earlier. It is not possible (without modifying the board and/or female IEC plug) to fit the female IEC. plug through the access holes on the surface of the board.



The sentiments are appreciated, but my electrical and soldering technique is woefully inadequate. It was decided to simply allow the board to rest as it exists with the IEC power cable plugged directly into the power jack on the FM3.

The good news I can share is that both boards are all but complete. My schedule Monday will take me north some miles to visit a hardware store that has an extensive selection of machine screw hardware parts, several display walls and aisles of them, to be exact.

Instead of using adhesive plates for the FC12 foot controller, 6/40 gun screws replaced the existing machine screws. My hope is to do the same with the FM3, and remove the adhesive plates off the reverse of the FM3, clean it up, and attach the FM3 with either the gun screws and washers, or wait until Wednesday when nylon M3.5 - .60 8mm Philips screws will arrive. (It seems a bit overkill here...a bag of 100 amazon screws for $7.99 when I'll need only 8 or more....will likely donate the rest to our local hardware whose supply of unusual size parts is lacking...)

The EV-1 Expression pedals will likely receive the same treatment...will match the existing screws with replacement ones and will ask my woodworker brother to assist flexing the pedal so the perforated surface holes line up with the screw wells. (We were successful with this for the FC12's one misaligned hole, using a 6mm allen wrench through the perforated surface hole while flex-forcing the FC12's screw well into position. He held his flashlight phone and flexed the board against the FC12 while I installed the screw. The screw well lined up and it was possible to install the gun screw and washer.).

Woodworker brother will arrive again midweek. Nylon screws will have arrived by then, so the only thing the hardware store trip will be for is more washers and EV-1 replacement screws. Last point of order is the TRS>TRS ¼" right angled EV-1 cables. Images likely by Thursday evening or Friday.


it'll be a lot of fun to check out the result once you're all set!
 
Am almost set to provide images. My right-angled TRS cables are supposed to arrive today, and the nylon screws, Wednesday. Thursday, my brother will arrive after dinner to help with the assembly, and images either that evening or Friday.
 
Images promised. Dilemma solved.

Fractal FM3 & Duo 17 Temple Audio Board
JenGYUX.jpg


FM3 / Duo 17 (Left Side View of FASlink XLRMOD Jack)
39wAonE.jpg


FM3 / Duo 17 (Right Side View of XLRMOD Speaker Outs)
v6uuDLF.jpg


Fractal FC12 Foot Controller & 2x EV-1 Expression Pedals; Temple Audio Duo 34 Board
o2hvNah.jpg


FC12 / Duo34 Right Side View of FASlink XLRMOD Jacks). (Will likely remove XLRMOD and invert to bring upright)
5XMwvPH.jpg


FC12 / Duo 34 (Reverse View of TRS ¼" & FASlink XLR Connectors)
8zjrU6l.jpg
 
:eek: What are you going to do with all of that on open mic night? Looks like it's growing quite large.
 
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