Custom 24 (2012) Nut Problems

[Nick Kustreba]

Hi everyone; hoping I can get some advice here in this wonderful forum.
I bought a brand new Custom 24 from Sweetwater back in 2012.
It has been a great sounding and playing guitar for quite awhile -- it only has some minor flaws with it, mainly with the neck finish, it's not entirely even where the paint meets the fingerboard, but that is just a minor quibble -- still, for a guitar that cost me almost 3 grand, it's kind of surprising this kind of QC would make it out of the factory.
Anyway -- forgive me for my rants...I will try to make the rest of this post productive, I promise
This is the guitar I have (this isn't mine, just found a really good pic via google of the exact same model / finish): https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/93/54/d8/9354d88d37e9125e0c47d665a4b4ec48.jpg
The main major problem I am having with this guitar is the nut.
It seems that the slot for the "D" string has been cut so deep from me using the tremolo all the time that it buzzes on the first fret, and there is nothing I can really do to fix this, aside from getting a new nut; however, I have talked to several pro players, and they tell me this is very common with PRS nuts, and other "graphite type self lubricating nuts" as well -- as in, if you use the trem a lot, it will hack the nut slots to death from the strings going back and forth, and make the strings sit so low that they buzz on the very first fret. The "D" string seems to be the one that goes first, and that is exactly what has happened to my guitar, in less than 3 years time...
If you do not believe me or you think this is hogwash, then listen to what Guthrie Govan has to say about it, and why he went with a bone / tusk nut on his new custom:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xoSutd34xPk
I use Ernie Ball Cobalt strings, which are harder than nickel/steels, maybe that has some factor in accelerating this wear process.
Also, the "G" string gets caught in the nut as well -- when I do not play the guitar for awhile, and I gently press the trem bar down, I can hear it ping -- this pinging sound is the "G" string slipping and getting caught on the nut, and the force from the trem setting it free. I would use nut sauce (I do on my fenders), but this nut is supposed to be self-lubricating already, so I'm not exactly sure why the "G" string is getting caught at the nut...
So, as of right now, I can't really play my PRS at all because of the buzzing -- what should I do?
I don't want this problem to happen again a few years down the line, so I am very hesitant to get the nut replaced with the exact same one that it came with, as it would seem the problem would have a very high likelihood of occurring again, due to the way I use the trem and the amount of time I spend playing it (minimum 4 hours a day, trem use every single day).
Any suggestions would be helpful!
Also, another question, however stupid this might sound, I'll ask it anyway -- is this kind of problem covered under the PRS warranty?
The only reason I ask is because I've never had this issue before on any of my other guitars, and it seems to have happened in a very short time period, and considering how much it cost me to begin with...you get the idea.
Also, who exactly should I get to put the new nut in, and how much would it cost?
I am very hesitant to do it myself, and I am very VERY hesitant to take it to guitar center and have one of those "techs" there charge me an arm and a leg and let me walk out the door with it not even installed properly. I live in a relatively small town with not a lot of music stores here, let alone luthiers.
Small rant: I have tried to take some of my other guitars to GC before for setups, and I have literally had to argue with them for 20 minutes sometimes after they give you the guitar back and let you play it and see if it's "up to snuff" -- in the past I did this with floyd based guitars as I just didn't have the time to sit there for 2 hours and set them up exactly right...anyway, they would always argue with me and say "it's normal to have it not return to exact pitch and be a little sharp or flat after you use the floyd trem" -- sorry Mr. Guitar Center man; this is not normal and it's not acceptable to pay someone to set up your guitar and have them tell you this after it's done. Needless to say I eventually learned how to set up a floyd properly and have it return to pitch 100% of the time, although it is such a pain and does take me a long time to do this, it's better than paying them to do a poor job on it AND losing access to my guitar for 4-5 days while I wait for one of their incompetent employees to "set it up" for me.
Thanks for your help / time -- I hope I can get some suggestions on how to fix this issue and make sure it does not happen again.
One more thought: I've always been intrigued by Earvana nuts -- they are supposed to improve intonation and all, although I have read on multiple places that PRS nuts are compensated as well, but not as much..that is another thing I am worried about when getting someone else to put the new nut on -- if they are not familiar with PRS specs, it might turn out to be a disaster.

 

[sergiodeblanc]

Hey buddy.

Sorry to hear you're having problems with your nut, but it sounds like you know what needs to be done. I generally prefer the self-lubricating nut for trem equipped guitars but have heard other players get along well with bone ones, so if you're feeling adventurous give one a shot.

I wouldn't be too bummed about your expensive guitar needing a tuneup after all that play-time you're putting in. You're up to 4000+ hours on it, If it were a car, you'd have to change the oil and filter by now, if you know what I'm sayin... Guitars need periodic checkups too!

You could send the guitar to the PTC, but since you don't want to live without it you're best bet is to find somebody local or DIY. I don't think you mention where you live, so can't really help with a recommendation there.

Good luck!

 

[justmund]

Sorry to hear about your woes. What gauge strings are you using? Nothing wrong with using nut sauce as long as there's no detriment to anything else (e.g. tone).

If I lived in the US, there's only one place I would send my PRS, and that's the PTC. Sure it will cost a fair bit more to get the work done but it's like getting your local mechanic to service your Ferrari...

 

[Rider1260]

As far as the nut goes they are cheap and come in pairs it is one of the easiest repairs to make ( did one on an SE Tremonti I had )
BUT since you said you had a finish issue I would drop PTC a nice email they are GREAT to work with ( I had a finish repair on a CU22 GREAT JOB , LIKE NEW )
and under warranty

 

[Nick Kustreba]

As far as the nut goes they are cheap and come in pairs it is one of the easiest repairs to make ( did one on an SE Tremonti I had )
BUT since you said you had a finish issue I would drop PTC a nice email they are GREAT to work with ( I had a finish repair on a CU22 GREAT JOB , LIKE NEW )
and under warranty

After reading this and watching some YouTube videos of DIYers, I think I feel a little bit more confident, to the point where I could do this myself. Thank you all for the confidence boost!
I think I may have overreacted a bit at the difficulty of doing this on my own.
Funny story -- when I was 12 I bought a cheap bass at a music exchange show, and when I brought it home and changed the strings after about a month, the nut fell off.
I actually ended up glueing it back on myself back then But...
What I am worried about is cutting the slots too low. I guess the worst thing that could happen is, I slot it too low, and I get another one and do it again...not a big deal I guess...practice makes perfect

Still trying to decide if I should get another PRS nut or if I should go with an Earvana or maybe a GraphTech.
I've always thought the PRS nut on the 513 looked pretty cool...would it fit on a CU 24?
Any advantages to using one of those vs. the CU 24 nut?
Thanks again all.

Oh, btw, for string gauges I go 48-36-26-17-13-10 -- I use Elixirs for the top three unwound; they have that anti-rust plating on them that makes them last forever that I love; the bottom three are EB Cobalts, and I go with a 48 on the lowest pitched string because it goes down to D very easily when I need it to.

 

[justmund]

PRS nuts are pre-cut, assuming you don't use anything heavier than 10s?

 

[swede71]

I think you should replace it with a PRS nut.Its all true what you say about self lubricant nuts like graphite wear quicker just as Guthrie say in that video.I Have to say though that The PRS nut is a very hard material and last for a long time.Do a quick test and press down third fret and check if there is a small gap between first fret and the string.Check relief and action.Low action and no relief can be a problem for many players.If nut needs to be replaced you take it to a known luthier or guitar repairman in your area.One last thing I would like to say is this,even if a guitar cost 3 grand doesn't mean it's a magic thing.Its still just a guitar.A very well constructed guitar I would like to add.Parts wear and needs to be changed even on a PRS.

 

[Nick Kustreba]

I think you should replace it with a PRS nut.Its all true what you say about self lubricant nuts like graphite wear quicker just as Guthrie say in that video.I Have to say though that The PRS nut is a very hard material and last for a long time.Do a quick test and press down third fret and check if there is a small gap between first fret and the string.Check relief and action.Low action and no relief can be a problem for many players.If nut needs to be replaced you take it to a known luthier or guitar repairman in your area.One last thing I would like to say is this,even if a guitar cost 3 grand doesn't mean it's a magic thing.Its still just a guitar.A very well constructed guitar I would like to add.Parts wear and needs to be changed even on a PRS.

Yeah, I came to that conclusion after reading a lot of the replies It's hard for me though, this is my one "really" expensive axe -- I have a few Ibanez Prestiges and ESPs, but nothing over 1500 USD. I know PRS nuts are pre-slotted, but does that mean you do not have to modify them at all once you get them?

I also have a Fender tele that's made by Cort interestingly, that also came with a graphite nut -- I've had this guitar for over 10 years, and the nut is perfectly fine -- and I use 12's on that guitar -- The lowest pitched string is a 52 on my tele. But it does not have a trem -- the bridge is hard tail'd; so that probably explains it.
I would imagine anyone who has a PRS with a hard tail, or with a trem but never uses the trem, will not have any problems.
The frets on that tele are another story though :O But yeah, it's just kind of shocking as I've never had a nut worn out before. Yes, I've measured relief and action at the bridge saddles -- it's the nut for sure. It's only the D string that's buzzing, and if I put a capo on the first fret, it's perfectly fine...even without a capo it only buzzes when the string is open; and *just* the D string. It even buzzes when I put the bridge saddle at an insanely high height that's not even playable.

How about the 513 nut vs. the Custom 24 nut? Any opinions on that? I've read a few posts and opinions elsewhere and people seem to really like the 513 nut.

 

[Jazzedout]

Regarding the 513 nut: I think it depends on what type of neck you have on the Cu24. IIRC the 513 nut fits the "regular" neck shape and not the wide thin / wide fat variety...

Regarding the finish issue at the edge of the fretboard: I think you should ask PRS if this qualifies for warranty repair.

 

[justmund]

The 513 nut used to be scalloped, I think they phased it out around the same time they went to (pattern) regular neck carve, normal (not 513) birds etc.

I don't think they're any different any more, you can buy NOS 513 nuts to fit the "old" 513s but they wouldn't fit your guitar.

and yes, if you got a PRS nut (better yet, a pack of 2), then you'd just have to install it, do a regular setup (relief, action, intonation) and you're good to go!

 

[Nick Kustreba]

Regarding the 513 nut: I think it depends on what type of neck you have on the Cu24. IIRC the 513 nut fits the "regular" neck shape and not the wide thin / wide fat variety...

Regarding the finish issue at the edge of the fretboard: I think you should ask PRS if this qualifies for warranty repair.

Thanks for the good info! My PRS has a pattern thin neck. I ordered the regular Cu24 nut. I did not realize they got rid of the scalloped nut on the 513 -- I'm not exactly sure what purpose the scalloping served, but it looked pretty damned cool. Some people say it is just for looks, others say it is supposed to improve sustain by altering the string paths -- not sure I buy that, but damn does it look sweet regardless.

Thanks for everyone's help; hopefully I will be able to get this done in about a week or so...will post pics after I get it installed...although it won't look any different than it does now heh, but at least the buzzing will be gone Also, sorry, I didn't see this earlier -- the finish issue is very very minor -- it's just the paint on the neck is uneven where the neck meets the fingerboard on the sides -- it just makes it look like someone rushed the job or screwed up when doing it...it's not a big deal, I was just surprised by it.

 

[Nick Kustreba]

Hi All...got the replacement nuts today -- just wanted to ask one more question if you don't mind...The replacement nuts I ordered from PRS Accessories (Part# ACC-4204 for Pattern Thin neck) look a little bit different than the nut that came on my Cu24. The one that came stock is a lot darker, and is like...brush finished or something; compared to the replacement ones which are smooth. Is it "brushed" only because it was sanded down a bit? Thanks!

Also...weird...I found another site that claims there is a "stop tail" nut and a "tremolo nut"

http://www.nemusiccenter.com/prs-paul-reed-smith-tremolo-nut/
http://www.nemusiccenter.com/prs-paul-reed-smith-stop-tail-nut/

According to PRS's accessories page, the nut from them is compatible with both stop tail and trems...and the part number is based on the neck that you have -- on the other site, the part numbers are the same, but one is the "tremolo nut" (4026) and the other is the stop tail nut (4024)...what the heck O_O -- maybe these are old stock, or they have the description wrong? They claim the tremolo nut is made out of "more slippery material"

 

[DHW]

The slots on the nut are good. If you need to lower it you should sand the back of it in slow increments until it is perfect before gluing it in place. The new nuts sold have brass embedded in them making them even harder. Last one I did ruined a diamond plate when I was sanding it... 4204 is the pattern width and 4206 is the pattern regular width. They are exactly the same otherwise. I still use a dab of nut sauce in each slot on my cu24. It works great.