Anybody else have problems with an SE 3-way switch?

[Paul G.]

Mine works 90% of the time, but every once in a while, the back pickup won't engage. I can wiggle it into working, but rather than a warranty replacement with another OKish switch, I'm thinking it might be worth it to just bite the bullet and install a Switchcraft SG style.

 

[andy474x]

The switches seem to be a common problem on SE's and even some S2's, I'd just get a quality one and be done with it, I've done the same on mine that have gone bad.

 

[Paul G.]

Thanks, that's what I figured. I'll order a new, quality switch.

 

[KThaxton]

In my own inconclusive research, it looks to me like the flexible metal pieces that the inner plastic piece (opposite side of the switch handle) scrub on, actually scrapes a small amount of plastic off that inner piece and I think that plastic "dust" falls into the contacts.....hence the intermittence of it. If that makes any sense.

 

[Uncle Bob]

Squirt a little contact cleaner in there first. The number of times I’ve almost ripped out ‘dodgy’ electrics (not in a PRS, yet) only for contact cleaner to fix it.

 

[letterk]

Contact cleaner and a sheet of paper rubbed in between fixes it.

 

[Paul G.]

Contact cleaner did not work, nor did cleaning the contacts mechanically. This ain't my first rodeo and I know a bad switch from a dirty one.

I put in a genuine Switchcraft short toggle, not only does everything work reliably now, the feel of the switch is silky and luxurious compared to the clunky original, and it is utterly silent.

I have to say, I was pretty disappointed in the factory installation as well -- the wires were not inserted into the terminal's holes, they were simply laid against the terminals and stuck on with big globs of sloppy solder. The insulation on one lead was overheated and melty. I didn't bother desoldering, I cut the leads, cleaned them all up, trimmed, stripped, and tinned the leads properly, and got a mechanical connection before soldering. As it should have been done at the factory.

 

[Draconomics]

I have issues with the switches too. For me, its an issue with the little metal flaps not returning back to make contact with the middle pole, so that position of the switch is dead. Just need to bend the flaps in a bit more and that takes care of it. I might try a better quality switch next time im messing about the cavities.

 

[Paul G.]

I love both of my SEs, and the toggle on my other one is working fine. The other electronics, especially the pots are quite nice. Looking at the switch closely, I'm not crazy about its design -- the blades are very short and I can see why they could fail. Not taking a chance of it failing on a gig.

 

[Draconomics]

I love both of my SEs, and the toggle on my other one is working fine. The other electronics, especially the pots are quite nice. Looking at the switch closely, I'm not crazy about its design -- the blades are very short and I can see why they could fail. Not taking a chance of it failing on a gig.

Yeah, I wouldnt feel the most comfortable at a gig with the switches being so touchy.

SE pots I generally never touch so long as they arent fried. I did end up replacing them in my SEs, only because I was in there rewiring the jack and putting in better wire, so figured Id go all the way.

 

[Black-Viper75]

just get a quality one and be done with it, I've done the same on mine that have gone bad.

I believe this is the way. Mine is does it rarely but it's enough to start thinking of a replacement switch.