Will the SE Custom 24 add anything to my collection ?

[markintime]

From what I've seen, people seem to think there's a slight difference with the neck carve. I can't say for sure though. Never played a 30th SE. Good luck!

According to another discussion in this forum, one of our members called the factory and was told that, yes, the 30th SE necks are a bit different, even though the Neck Profiles on their Support page does not show that update. I will try to find that post.

 

[Jakash]

According to another discussion in this forum, one of our members called the factory and was told that, yes, the 30th SE necks are a bit different, even though the Neck Profiles on their Support page does not show that update. I will try to find that post.

Thanks I went looking and found it. They are indeed different. A bit thicker closer to a Pattern Regular. That makes me want it more, but I love the spalted maple tops. It's so hard to choose.

 

[markintime]

Thanks I went looking and found it. They are indeed different. A bit thicker closer to a Pattern Regular. That makes me want it more, but I love the spalted maple tops. It's so hard to choose.

It is indeed hard to choose. How well I know. Can't really say I am fond of the spalted look, but that prejudice in me comes from my training and work as a forester for 20+ years. Shouldn't be anything wrong with the wood or they wouldn't use it for instrument making or other woodworking, obviously. There is a pretty good source of information in this Wikipedia article: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spalting. I just can't cotton to the idea of a "fungus among us".

But, hey, I just know I really love the feel of my 30th. Given that the hardware is equal, go for the one you feel you can love. You will not regret it.

 

[dogrocketp]

Here`s a question for you, Markintime. The article says that spalting compromises the structural integrity of the wood. Would this mean a less defined high treble response.? I`m thinking a slightly darker sound with less mid-range. Most of my guitars are mahogany, so there`s less high treble bite. They still have the PRS clarity, especially my old core Mira. This might be a reason to buy/not buy the spalted maple which I think is gorgeous.

 

[stratcpo]

I own the spalted maple SE CU 24 and it is the brightest sounding guitar I have(not a bad thing). A few adjustments to the amp and there you go. I love this guitar. ENJOY!!!

 

[markintime]

Here`s a question for you, Markintime. The article says that spalting compromises the structural integrity of the wood. Would this mean a less defined high treble response.? I`m thinking a slightly darker sound with less mid-range. Most of my guitars are mahogany, so there`s less high treble bite. They still have the PRS clarity, especially my old core Mira. This might be a reason to buy/not buy the spalted maple which I think is gorgeous.

Well, it would depend on the type of spalting. According to the article: "Spalting in hardwoods is divided into three main types: pigmentation, white rot and zone lines.". The pigmentation, basically is just that. "These pigmentation fungi often colonize wood via the rays, but are not considered decay fungi due to their non-destructive use of easily available wood carbohydrates". So that's more of a colorization thing. The white rot is responsible for the "punky" pockets of spongy wood. I've run into a lot of that splitting firewood and that's what turns me off. It doesn't even burn worth a hoot. No heat value. Then, the zone lines "themselves do not damage the wood. However, the fungi responsible for creating them often do.". I copied/pasted the most relevant and clearest parts as reading through lengthy scientific descriptions usually leave me dizzy-eyed, . So I am pretty sure the wood is very carefully chosen especially for its structural integrity which is of paramount importance to PRS. For me, however, just the very appearance of it brings back not the best impressions, so I stick with the "purty" stuff. :dontknow: <shrugs>

And I would totally agree with stratcpo. Gotta remember that maple is noted for the brightness it adds. Can't fault that.

But I am with you dogrocketp, I do love me some mahogany. I have half and half right now, and am happiest with my 'hogs.

 

[shinksma]

Here`s a question for you, Markintime. The article says that spalting compromises the structural integrity of the wood. Would this mean a less defined high treble response.? I`m thinking a slightly darker sound with less mid-range. Most of my guitars are mahogany, so there`s less high treble bite. They still have the PRS clarity, especially my old core Mira. This might be a reason to buy/not buy the spalted maple which I think is gorgeous.

If the guitar had any solid/thick bits made of the spalted wood, this may be relevant. But the spalted look is just a veneer over a solid maple cap. It is less than 1/16" thick - I believe about 1/32" or less? Think of it as a slightly thick paint.

EDIT: I don't consider my spalted maple Zach Myers to sound any darker than expected. But since it is a semi-hollow, it is a slightly different beast anyway.

 

[markintime]

^^^ There you go - maple over maple. Gotta be bright! Go for it

 

[Kazz]

If you're not set on new, you may find some great deals on some Core models like Starlas and Miras from a few years ago. I've seen several on Craigslist and eBay right around the top end of your budget.

Edit: Just to be clear, I think the SE Custom 24 is a good option too *if* you're okay with the neck being "wide thin" whereas at least my Core Starla is "wide fat".

 

[CVS]

Do the SE Acoustics play as easy as an electric. I have a Taylor GS mini and was considering a getting an Angelus. I just never have found an acoustic that played as good (read easy) as an electric.

I was mostly concerned about the neck I see it's wide/thin not wide/fat like the rest. I actually don't like the Strat because of the thin (front to back) neck.

Thanks for the response by the way.

I had a Taylor GS mini that I just sold - great tone - but I could only play it for very short periods of time before my fingers would start to revolt.

Neck preference is your call. The guitar has to feel good in your hands (IMHO)

 

[0defects13]

I was not fond of the PRS SE acoustics. I wanted to love that guitar. I ended up with a Martin (and spent more than I intended since I had to have a PA made Martin (I live in PA).

I think based upon your collection that a Custom 24 would definitely add to it. The Custom 24, to me, represents the best features you can put on a guitar. Yes, definitely things I'd change, but I can say that about all of my instruments. The PRS guitars always just feel "right" in my hands, regardless of minor things like a toggle instead of a blade switch. I own strats, I own soloists (super strats), LP, blah blah blah. What do I reach for 95% of the time? A PRS.

I'm not sure how you have your strat set up, maybe you want a dedicated single coil sound from your strat, maybe you want one of your other pieces in an alternate tuning. I just don't think you can go wrong with a custom 24. SE, S2, or Core, doesn't matter. As long as you're not going to go without food or miss a bill payment, I'd say get one!