Tuning

[Steve Morton]

Have a difficult time keeping my new PRS SE24 in tune...she goes out after a little tremlo and string bending. Ang suggestions on fixing this?

 

[garrett]

Flat or sharp?

 

[Steve Morton]

flat primarily

 

[Ovibos]

First thing, stretch the strings.

Other things to look at - is the string binding in the nut? Did you change string gauges? Is the bridge returning to horizontal?

 

[garrett]

If it's going flat, either the strings need some more stretching, or if it's strung sloppily at the tuners, the strings could be slipping.

This is my favorite stringing method for non-locking tuners. Very effective and pretty easy, too: https://www.prsguitars.com/index.php/support/article/prs_non_locking_tuners

 

[Eddie kim]

Might be the nut.

 

[Dirty_Boogie]

Might be the nut.

It's the nut.

Lots and lots of the same question posted here over the years. Search the threads and you'll get several suggestions. You can try slightly widening (and lubing) the nut slots, but the simplest solution is to just replace the nut with a Tusq nut or PRS Core nut.

BTW, are you using 10's (or bigger) strings? If yes, then you're pretty much guaranteed to have tuning stability issues with an SE, as their nuts are cut for 9's.

 

[Rusty Chops]

Have a difficult time keeping my new PRS SE24 in tune...she goes out after a little tremlo and string bending. Ang suggestions on fixing this?

Always tune UP to pitch, to set the slack in the gear set against the pull.

 

[Steve Morton]

Thank you all for the info. I think the nut is just garbage. The guitar is new and the strings have been stretched. I always tune up! Im going to try a new set of strings just to see if there is any difference. Then ill look at the nut if i still have the same issue.

It's the nut.

Lots and lots of the same question posted here over the years. Search the threads and you'll get several suggestions. You can try slightly widening (and lubing) the nut slots, but the simplest solution is to just replace the nut with a Tusq nut or PRS Core nut.

BTW, are you using 10's (or bigger) strings? If yes, then you're pretty much guaranteed to have tuning stability issues with an SE, as their nuts are cut for 9's.

9-42s

 

[Eddie kim]

Thank you all for the info. I think the nut is just garbage. The guitar is new and the strings have been stretched. I always tune up! Im going to try a new set of strings just to see if there is any difference. Then ill look at the nut if i still have the same issue.

9-42s

Don’t waste your money on new strings. Just get a new nut.

 

[flimbo]

Why can't PRS just put decent nuts on the SE's to start with??

 

[Eddie kim]

Why can't PRS just put decent nuts on the SE's to start with??

They do make one. It’s called S2..,, haha. J/K

 

[Dirty_Boogie]

Thank you all for the info. I think the nut is just garbage.
9-42s

You said it - not me! (but you won't get an argument from me on that topic.)

 

[László]

Why can't PRS just put decent nuts on the SE's to start with??

Perhaps you get what you pay for?

 

[Dirty_Boogie]

Perhaps you get what you pay for?

Perhaps. But why let such a small ticket item ruin an otherwise wonderful experience with the instrument. Les, not everyone can afford a core model, but I'm sure no one would complain if the cost of an SE went up by $10 if it meant much better tuning stability.

 

[László]

Perhaps. But why let such a small ticket item ruin an otherwise wonderful experience with the instrument. Les, not everyone can afford a core model, but I'm sure no one would complain if the cost of an SE went up by $10 if it meant much better tuning stability.

This is just a wild guess, so take it for what it’s worth...

The way to get the price of an instrument within reach, and to compete in a crowded market place where a few bucks here and there matter, is to scrimp wherever the manufacturer can. It’s why the guitars are made where they’re made, and why the parts on them are lower-cost.

As I said, I’m guessing. I have always owned a service business, not a manufacturing business. Shrug! I’ll bet that others here have far more expertise in mass-manufacturing and will share their experiences, and I’ll learn something!

 

[shimmilou]

That makes a lot of sense Les, just about each part/piece on the SE is a little different/cheaper than the American made versions. I have no real complaints about the SE, love mine, they are a great bang for the buck.

 

[Alnus Rubra]

I’m glad there’s no complaint about the wood!

 

[Dirty_Boogie]

This is just a wild guess, so take it for what it’s worth...

The way to get the price of an instrument within reach, and to compete in a crowded market place where a few bucks here and there matter, is to scrimp wherever the manufacturer can. It’s why the guitars are made where they’re made, and why the parts on them are lower-cost.

As I said, I’m guessing. I have always owned a service business, not a manufacturing business. Shrug! I’ll bet that others here have far more expertise in mass-manufacturing and will share their experiences, and I’ll learn something!

All valid points. But my point is that since such a low cost component on the instrument can have such a disproportionately high affect on the overall performance of the guitar, why not address it? We're not talking the cost of upgrading tuners or the trem, we're talking pennies here. When you're in the $800 price range (especially for an Indonesian-made guitar) SE's are anything but student/budget/beginner instruments - they're the real deal.

I just wish it would get addressed - I'd give my left nut for the right nut!

 

[Boogie]

The exception, IMO, is the SE trem models. The nut composition does not wear in a way that doesn’t grab the string, especially small strings. They seem to cut like a hot knife thru butter. This isn’t so much of an issue with the stop tail models. I still have the stock nut in my SE245 and it keeps tune pretty darned well...at least better than my Les Paul. Even the US nut in my DGT just had to be replaced after wearing the D slot down to the point of causing sitar buzz. It happens.

Use Big Bends Nut Sauce...both @ nut and saddles/trem pivot screws. It goes with the territory, so you might as well get good at debug and correction. Blaming the SE nut for the whole problem is probably shortsighted.