Shutterbug Central

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by ]-[@n$0Ma☩!©, Oct 22, 2016.

  1. Kazz

    Kazz Kaptain Kazz of the Triple Sickle Alliance

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    What you're looking at should be good; if I was looking for a camera primarily for stills in the sub-$5k range there's a good chance I'd get a 5D Mk III or IV, although there are some other very good options out or coming soon from Sony, Fuji, Nikon, etc.

    I'm not thrilled with how Canon is treating the video side of those cameras if that matters to you, but for most people it should still be pretty good on that front too.

    As for lenses, primes are great and a 50 and 85 or 100 are very good options, but if you get high quality zoom lenses like the Canon L Series I don't think most people could tell the difference in the shots.

    Personally I'd probably get a 24-70 and a 70-200 along with a good 50 or 85 to go with the 100mm Macro I have (my only good Canon lens, but I know people with others).

    Before committing that much money though, I would definitely take a look at the stuff announced at Photokina and other fairly new gear to make sure you want to make such a big commitment to Canon. It's not a bad choice, but right now I'm not sure it's definitively the best choice either.
     
  2. ]-[@n$0Ma☩!©

    ]-[@n$0Ma☩!© Der Hans der kann's

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    Thank you, Kass. Your feedback is right in line with my thinking.

    Right now the only decision I'm working through is the Mk3 or Mk4 Canon 5D. The 24-70mm L-series is a done deal. The 85mm prime is probable.
     
    Kazz likes this.
  3. Kazz

    Kazz Kaptain Kazz of the Triple Sickle Alliance

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    If money is not an issue then the Mark IV does have a better focus system and some other real improvements, but if you're not shooting fast moving subjects and you're not doing this as a pro who sees and notices every tiny difference then now may be a good time to pick up a used or discounted Mark III.

    They're still nice cameras and as long as you're getting great lenses you'll be able to upgrade just the body later for a lot less than this initial investment.

    I doubt you'll be disappointed with either. :)

    One more thing to consider though; if weight and portability are concerns then a mirrorless camera may be a better option overall for you.

    What you're looking at isn't particularly heavy for a DSLR, but especially with a large lens it's not super light either. The camera/lenses/etc. would need a backpack or something fairly large to carry them around safely. Some other cameras can fit into a pretty small bag.

    So if you want to shoot all day without wearing your arms out, or you want to go out in the wilderness with a light camera, etc. then it's worth considering your other options. :)
     
  4. Mike Duncan

    Mike Duncan DGT Player

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    [​IMG]


    Look at it! Nothing but prime lenses.
     
  5. Boogie

    Boogie SuperD

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    I'm still recovering from the boys' house fire that claimed my Nikon FM2 and D40, along with a few of my lenses that were on loan to my youngest. But I personally dug through the charred and drowned remains to grab the lot and restore what was possible. The Nikkor 1.8 50mm survived perfectly but the 50-135mm needs some help. The rest were safely in my closet. I still have some old glass from my Pentax days in the '70s (fixed 135mm, 1.8 50mm and 1.4 50mm Asahi Pentax) that I plan on adapting to one of the modular Sony bodies, someday soon.

    Hans, that 1.2 85mm is insanely cool! My personal fav is the Nikkor 1.8 105mm for portraiture but haven't owned one for about 20 years.
     
  6. ]-[@n$0Ma☩!©

    ]-[@n$0Ma☩!© Der Hans der kann's

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    House fire?!?!?! Everyone okay, Kerry?
     
  7. charliefrench

    charliefrench New Member

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    Sorry to learn about the fire. I too am a fan of the old Asahi Pentax 50mm 1.4. I use it mostly for close up stuff. Gives a real nice dreamy effect when shot wide open. A good walkabout lens too, and lightweight. Nice glass.
     
    #27 charliefrench, Oct 25, 2016
    Last edited: Oct 25, 2016
  8. veinbuster

    veinbuster Freeze zone

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    It was quite a while ago. Everyone was ok. Just stuff was hurt.
     
  9. ]-[@n$0Ma☩!©

    ]-[@n$0Ma☩!© Der Hans der kann's

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    Whoa... hang on a sec... I was talking to Kerry. But you had a fire too, Pete? Did I miss that earlier in this thread??
     
  10. Boogie

    Boogie SuperD

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    No, he was talking about our fire. it was a few years ago when both boys were in college. They escaped with a couple guitars and a computer.
     
  11. veinbuster

    veinbuster Freeze zone

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    I was referring to Boogie's lads.

    But years ago we lost everything in a fire. The thing I really missed was years of photos. Now I have copies of everything, including high res scans of everything I ever shot on 35mm.
     
  12. ]-[@n$0Ma☩!©

    ]-[@n$0Ma☩!© Der Hans der kann's

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    Wow, I had no idea. Between you guys and many of my co-workers who lost homes in the recent Colorado fires, this is not such an uncommon thing as one might hope.

    Without exception, people tell me they miss the photos the most. But there is one friend who also his classic 911. He left town on a last minute work trip and lost everything that wasn't in his suitcase.
     
  13. aristotle

    aristotle New Member

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    Like with music, I like old-school with photography. Black and white film, developed at home. I'm too lazy to enlarge in a dark room any more... I scan the negatives and process with photoshop.

    The most fun for me is a rangefinder rather than an SLR. My manual focus Leica M6 loaded with the uber Leica 50mm f1.0 (yes...f1.0) lens is like nothing else for street photography at dusk. Speaking of which, somebody mentioned not needing "fast" lenses because wide apertures were ok. Wide apertures mean "fast" as it turns out. Very few lenses on the planet are faster than f1.0 for the 50mm format at least. I do agree though that with a longer focal length like 100mm, it doesn't typically require more than f2 or so to put the background pleasingly out of focus.

    I do go practical for color photography. I used to upgrade continuously, but the high-iso performance of these bodies nowadays is so good, I don't need any more than my current Nikon D800.

    As far as Nikon vs. Canon. Makes no difference. I've stuck with Nikon because it's too much hassle to switch lenses, but although they leapfrog each other on a regular basis, they are so good that unless you're a pro with a defined workflow that needs to fit you and your work in order for you to make a living, it just doesn't matter. Both make lenses and bodies that are fantastic. Personally, I'd go for the full-frame format. Pixels are bigger and have (at least as of a couple of years ago) better low-light performance.

    Were it me, looking to get into this now, pick Nikon or Canon..whichever strikes your fancy. Here are the lenses that I'd get...

    50mm f1.4. They are cheap, fast, and light. Teaches you to move your feet to compose, which is great.

    Wide angle zoom. Something in the 12 to 24 range. There are typically two versions of these that are offered by the big two. I'd go for the cheaper, slower one. Yeah, there will be more pin-cushioning and barrel distortion with the cheaper one, and the low light performance isn't as good. But you use these thing for interior shots. Nobody that isn't pixel peeping will ever know or see the difference. This is the one area where a DX format is better though. Wide angle lenses are cheaper, faster and better (because of the smaller sensor, it's easier to design the lens, and because of the geometry, they get a natural field of view boost for the same focal length.) Still and all, I'd prefer the advantages of full frame and live with a stinkier or more costly wide angle lens. These wide zooms are required, in my opinion if you want to take interiors. Panoramics have their place, but most of what you'll want for print or display won't be panoramic.

    A compact, lightweight (and cheap) zoom. Say 70 to 300mm. You use these things outdoors, or on vacation, and they don't need to be fast. The subject matter for most of these applications make any lens distortions meaningless.

    If you really feel like it, a fast-ish long prime like 85 or 100. I do have an 85 1.2, but it doesn't get used all that much.

    A couple of other observations.... First, DSLRs are fantastic tools to control exposure in creative ways. I think that many people would benefit from taking the camera off of "auto" or "program" mode. I leave my cameras in manual mode. I find it more ergonomic to first adjust aperture for the composition (meaning how much of the subject I want in focus) and use shutter speed for exposure because I don't tend to do lots of subjects where I want to induce motion blur, but you get very quick at judging a scene, knowing immediately what you want the aperture to be for it, and dialing up a speed that gets the exposure exactly where you want it. Why bother with exposure compensation when your exposure meter, along with knowledge of the scene tells you all you need to know. Bright scenery, dial down the exposure a notch and see what happens. I trust my brain more than any AI algorithm built into the camera. I'm not as much of a stickler on autofocus. Unless it's low-light with a slow lens, they tend to work fine for me.

    Second, cameras and lenses are all fine and dandy, but Photoshop is where the magic happens. Develop a good workflow, and most iPhone shots can look pro (from an image quality perspective at least). For me, for the generic shot, it's start off with a medium setting unsharp mask. Then crop and down-res for the desired framing. Then a lighter unsharp mask (unless I totally screwed focus, in which case you have no choice but to fake the focus with over-sharpening...which never works super, but what are you going to do...). Then a levels adjust. The photoshop auto exposure correction is never optimal in my opinion. Adjusting the levels gives you complete control. Then finally any color correction or creative saturation enhancements. Black and white flow for me is very different though, and requires a full curves manipulation to be at its best...but that's partially because I'm more serious about black and white.

    I've blathered off enough. Can anybody tell I'm trying to avoid a work task that I just don't want to do?
     
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  14. Boogie

    Boogie SuperD

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    I used to run a pro color lab and this guy knows what he's talking about. Every syllable is spot on...everyone should know how to run a manual camera. And I've never even held a Leica 1.0 50mm. I'm not worthy.

    And Hans, losing a classic 911 to fire??!! I've watched a $200k 997's brake lines melt and burst into flames, so I know what that looks like before the fire extinguisher hit it. I can't imagine anything worse.
     
    #34 Boogie, Oct 26, 2016
    Last edited: Oct 26, 2016
  15. jfb

    jfb Plank Owner

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    I use my cell phone camera primarily, but I do have a Sony RX100 IV that I keep in my backpack. I bought the Sony because I wanted the smallest/nicest thing I could find at the time.
     
  16. rugerpc

    rugerpc A♥ hoards guitars ♥A
    Moderator

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    Or a Speed Graphic...
     
  17. ]-[@n$0Ma☩!©

    ]-[@n$0Ma☩!© Der Hans der kann's

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    Ok, I've settled on an upgrade to my current travel camera (a Canon G12) and will defer my DSLR purchase (probably a 5D mk4) for spring 2017.

    I'll be ordering a Canon G3X today or tomorrow.

    [​IMG]
     
  18. Shawn@PRS

    Staff Member Moderator

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    I like that. My wife has a Canon EOS something or other and while it's a nice camera, it's huge and it isn't great for travel or activity photography because of it's size. I like the compact design of this one
     
    ]-[@n$0Ma☩!© likes this.
  19. n24re

    n24re Enjoying the ride...

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    So throwing my 2 cents in...what I learned through the last few years of being into cameras. Spend the money on the lens and the more specific the lens the better. I have seen a trend with me in that the camera body is the throw away part and the lens is the real investment. I have several Canon L series primes and zooms and I back them up with everything from a Rebel to a 1DX.

    As an example a 24-70 on a Canon SL1 is a super handy easy to use general shooter. Put it on a 5D and it becomes a purpose driven portrait lens. Stick it on a 1DX and it is perfect for up close fast action...think stage front at Alice Cooper's last tour.
    [​IMG]
     
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  20. ]-[@n$0Ma☩!©

    ]-[@n$0Ma☩!© Der Hans der kann's

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    That's a great shot.
     

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