PRS original locking tuners & parts

[John Mann]

I have a limited supply of original PRS Locking Tuners and parts (1985-1996)

Stock includes:
complete tuners - singles and sets
locking collars - singles and sets
thumb screws - sets (metric and US versions)

Fore more information please visit my website - [URL="http://www.guitarvaultusa.com"]John Mann's Guitar Vault[/URL]

 

[Boogie]

Winged tuner fanatics, unite!! Knock on wood, none of my tuners have ever failed or broken, but knowing spares are available is a great thing.

Thanks John!

 

[sergiodeblanc]

I approve of this message.

 

[WildWestGuitars]

Winged tuner fanatics, unite!!
I absolutely agree with Boogie! - DFD

 

[henryr]

I have several acoustics with Waverlys on a 2004 Santa Cruz, 1968 Grovers on a Gibson, no names on a 1975 Guild and two PRS SEs with non-locking tuners. They all seem to stay in the position I left them in, when I tuned the guitars, after repeated playing. How do locking tuners improve intonation and/or staying in tune?

 

[sergiodeblanc]

.... How do locking tuners improve intonation and/or staying in tune?

They won't improve intonation, but since they're designed to not need any string wraps/windings around the shafts of the tuner, they aid in tuning stability for trem equipped guitars. I haven't noticed any significant benefits for stop/hard tail guitars besides easy string changes(depending of course on what kind of locking mechanism the tuners employ. Some can actually make it more difficult).

 

[henryr]

I secure strings using what I think is a pretty standard method which most of you are probably familiar with. I think it is shown on the Martin site and on youtube.

One starts by running a string through the post hole leaving about 11/2” slack behind the post. Next the string is run half way around the post and tucked under then over the section of string first going into the post hole. It is pulled tightly against the post and down against the top of the string, going into the post, such that it is parallel to the face of the head stock. The tuner is wound such that the string gets locked/trapped under the portion of string going into the post. It is then wound several times around the post.

I do it a little differently. I only leave enough slack to wind a little more than one full revolution past the post hole such that the string pushes up against wrapped portion of string. I've never had a string work loose but I don't dive bomb the trem.

 

[Dusty Chalk]

I think the point in having it go down again is so that the sharp end when you cut it is not sticking up and out.

 

[henryr]

I think you are right. The string is only secured at one point when the post is first tuned and the string first winds over itself. However, I think that by pulling the string over and down against the string going into the post hole and also against post helps ensure a good entrapment.