Kluson style Locking tuners from John Mann

That's news to me. To the best. of my knowledge, PRS does not offer a locking Kluson style tuner.

Others on here have posted about ordering vintage style locking tuners from PRS from dealers. Over $200 for the set. It may be only for the core models. That I cannot verify. Guess enough people grumbled about lack of locking tuners on the newer McCarty's.
 
There’s also vintage locking tuners from PRS that only dealers can get for some odd reason. Not sold online or direct from PRS

That's news to me. To the best. of my knowledge, PRS does not offer a locking Kluson style tuner.

Others on here have posted about ordering vintage style locking tuners from PRS from dealers. Over $200 for the set. It may be only for the core models. That I cannot verify. Guess enough people grumbled about lack of locking tuners on the newer McCarty's.

This might've been me. I got a set this past winter--I simply ordered online from the Accessory Store what I thought were just going to be "vintage-style" (non-locking) Kluson-style tuners. But I opened up the box and there they were--vintage on the back, and locking on the front. They're like the mullet of tuners.

I don't know if it was a mix-up with some sort of PS parts or an accident that I got them but I just went ahead and installed them anyway. I actually kind of like the way the black locking screw looks overall, because it ties into the black knobs & nut materials, etc. on the rest of the guitar.

1V3RV2N.jpg
 
Last edited:
Any clue where to get vintage style pegheads that will fit phase III tuners?
 
Any clue where to get vintage style pegheads that will fit phase III tuners?
Dunno... good question. This guitar actually had the mid-2000's PRS vintage/Kluson style non-locking tuners in an obnoxious gold, but I wanted nickel/chrome (hence, my swap). But for these newer locking replacements, I had to ream the holes bigger. I kinda chipped-up the finish and cracked it when squeezing the new grommets in there (even with a StewMac bushing tool) but nothing a little of my wife's nail-polish doesn't cover up from ~3 feet away.

So, if it helps at all: the older Kluson non-locking = smaller holes with smaller bushings; the ones I pictured above = bigger holes with wider bushings
 
Dunno... good question. This guitar actually had the mid-2000's PRS vintage/Kluson style non-locking tuners in an obnoxious gold, but I wanted nickel/chrome (hence, my swap). But for these newer locking replacements, I had to ream the holes bigger. I kinda chipped-up the finish and cracked it when squeezing the new grommets in there (even with a StewMac bushing tool) but nothing a little of my wife's nail-polish doesn't cover up from ~3 feet away.

So, if it helps at all: the older Kluson non-locking = smaller holes with smaller bushings; the ones I pictured above = bigger holes with wider bushings


I may order the "tulips" from Hipshots and test it. The ones that came with my Custom 24 are lovely. Really good tuning machines and the locking mechanism grabs like a motherfucker just the pegs are to large and I knocking them out of tune every time I put the guitar down of flat surface such as sofa. I saw the pictures of Retro CU24 fatback that emotionally demolished my brain how sweet it looked like with tulips
 
Hey guys,
Aredv there locking kluson tuners these days?
Will they fit an early 2000s singlecut?
I am buying a 2001 SC that someone retrofitted Schaller chrome locking tuners to replace the original kluson. So of course there are extra holes in the headstock from thr original klusons.
If like to install locking kluson, maybe from PRS and hide the holes. If rather the guitar look stock.
 
I believe early 2000's guitars used Gotoh tuners which had 1/4" shafts.
Newer models use Korean tuners which have 6mm (.236") shafts.

The grommets are different, so that means the headstock holes are different sizes as well !

If you want to remove grommets, I suggest you heat them up with a soldering iron before trying to push them out... otherwise you will chip the finish around the grommet !!!

Both PRS and John Mann's Guitar Vault / MannMade USA offer direct fit tuners that will work for all PRS guitars.
 
Brilliant advice John! Wish somebody had told me that before! I used the old screwdriver rocking on the inside of the grommet to loosen it and then gently push.
 
I believe early 2000's guitars used Gotoh tuners which had 1/4" shafts.
Newer models use Korean tuners which have 6mm (.236") shafts.

The grommets are different, so that means the headstock holes are different sizes as well !

If you want to remove grommets, I suggest you heat them up with a soldering iron before trying to push them out... otherwise you will chip the finish around the grommet !!!

Both PRS and John Mann's Guitar Vault / MannMade USA offer direct fit tuners that will work for all PRS guitars.
Perfect!!


This SC has aftermarket Schallers.
I'd prefer locking kluson without extra holes in the head.
 
John is essentially saying it’s no guarantee of a simple swap. Will need to change grommets as well as the tuners. Call his shop if you want the answer direct from the man. He will set you on the right path
 
Brilliant advice John! Wish somebody had told me that before! I used the old screwdriver rocking on the inside of the grommet to loosen it and then gently push.
Use a small socket wrench socket and a c clamp with some wood shims on top and bottom it'll press right out! Heat and that finish may be bad.

Use the c clamp to press the new one in.

I just realized I'm trying to counter John Mann's advice...apologies! I just don't like heat next to the finish. Did ding my S2 594 with a stray solder drop once :(
 
Last edited:
Any clue where to get vintage style pegheads that will fit phase III tuners?
The PRS Accessories shop has PRS Vintage-Style Locking (and Non-Locking) Tuners that will work for Zach Myers, older and recent model McCarty's, Bernie Marsden's and now, Silver Sky Core & SE. You may also be able to locate these on eBay and Reverb, as well as John Mann's.

According to PRS Customer Service (with whom I spoke directly recently regards my Silver Sky [the customer service gal spoke directly with PTC]), the PRS Vintage-Style Tuners are direct replacements in all of the above models with no modification nor bushing replacement required. Direct drop-in replacements.

The current model Phase III tuners have a different footprint than the Vintage-Style. If you decide to replace your Vintage tuners with Phase IIIs, the Phase IIIs will not cover the previous Vintage tuner footprint. (Please note that Phase IIIs are not direct replacements for all of the above models. They will work for the Silver Sky Core/SE, but I do not know regards the remaining guitar models.)

I also do not know whether you can replace Phase III tuners with Vintage-Style. Best to contact PRS Customer Service to determine that.

Regards 3rd party tuners, the Silver Sky peg hole size is 9.5mm. Gotoh produces PRS tuners, though you may not be able to find the correct model on the Gotoh website that matches the PRS tuners. They seem to be the SD90 model, but I'd not chance that and make the mistake of ordering the wrong tuner. The reason for that is because the shaft size is 8.8mm and it isn't clear what size the bushing OD is. Again, these would be questions to ask PRS Customer Service via phone. Email contact was somewhat of a runaround until I decided to contact PRS directly via phone. The phone call provided the answers I was looking for.
 
Last edited:
Use a small socket wrench socket and a c clamp with some wood shims on top and bottom it'll press right out! Heat and that finish may be bad.

Use the c clamp to press the new one in.

I just realized I'm trying to counter John Mann's advice...apologies! I just don't like heat next to the finish. Did ding my S2 594 with a stray solder drop once :(
If you just press the bushing out, I can promise you sooner or later you chip the finish. I know from experience... been there, done that!

The real key here is to make certain that bushing is free from the lacquer (which it is not in many cases).

Obviously, one needs to proceed with caution and care when working on an instrument. One should also realize when the job should be let to a professional
 
Back
Top