SE Paul’s Guitar Issues

Jaw3000

New Member
Joined
Oct 28, 2023
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I’ve been looking at two brand new (factory sealed) SE Paul’s Guitars to purchase at a local store, and unfortunately both seem to have issues and of course, different tonal qualities. As I’m a hobbyist that doesn’t have prior experience with PRS, I thought I’d ask here for opinions.

One guitar is noticeably heavier than the other. I’ve been doing some reading, and most people seem to think heavier/denser guitars have a brighter sound, while the lighter ones are darker and more muddled. I’m hearing the opposite with these two. The lighter one sounding brighter and louder, but with less soundstage and some tone dampening on the notes – perhaps a bit harsher. The heavier one is quieter, but has a nicer soundstage and the notes tend to sound clearer with more resonance. I’m not sure if its too much resonance, because the chorus when plugged in is slightly annoying at times. The bass notes sound much better on the heavier, while the treble sounds better on the lighter. Sustain seems better on the lighter. On the heavier, the high B and E strings are very quiet, especially on higher frets, which is limiting. I’m not able to hear hammer-ons, for example. Not sure if this is setup, dead frets, or the tonal qualities of the guitar. Yet the lighter one can sound somewhat harsh here. I’m also hearing the same things I’ve mentioned acoustically as well as plugged in, so it’s the guitar and not the pickups. Of course, much of this could be the setup, although its been checked and otherwise seems fine according to my store. I’ve also noticed some balance issues. The heavier guitar seems to be balanced without tilting, while the lighter one is very neck-heavy and unbalanced.

There are other issues between the guitars. The lighter one has quite a leaning bridge – which I’ve contradictory read is bad and also that it doesn’t matter. Not sure of the effect this has on tone or if it would prove to be a problem down the road? Does anyone have thoughts on leaning bridges? The brass thread the bridge screws into is also raised up out of the surface of the guitar too on the side that’s leaning more. Also, as I’ve only owned Strats, is the stoptail bridge without a tune-o-matic a potential problem for correcting setup or intonation issues now or down the road? Obviously, less can be done to correct each string, but I’m not sure how much this could actually be an issue.

The heavier one has a very loose neck pickup, which can rattle and is pushed down on one side against the “bottom” – can hear and feel it “hit” if I rattle it. This can probably be tightened or a spring fixed, but for a new guitar, I have to say I’m concerned about the quality control here and whether it will just loosen again. I’ve also noticed many of these SE models having what looks like stripped screws around the humbuckers, which make you wonder what’s going on, and if the factory actually shipped guitars with visibly stripped screws. The photos on Sweetwater’s site of different SE guitars often show this too – are they trying to fix issues with the pickups, and doing this or are they shipping these like this? Makes you wonder, because there are a lot of them. There are other fit and finish issues too, like misaligned volume and tone knobs, but these don’t affect tone or playability so I’m not as concerned about them.

The lighter one has a lot of fret buzz, especially on the low strings – which my store checked out and they think it’s a high fret or the nut and not the string height – which again, is QC on a brand-new guitar. Strings on both guitars have been replaced with new PRS strings, so bad strings are not an issue.

Both of these guitars seem to have their issues, and I’m not sure a paid setup beyond what the store has already done would do that much to correct them, at least not without spending much more on labor to correct a factory QC issue (like high frets or replacing the nut). I’m a bit disappointed there seem to be such quality control issues on them, and not sure whether to go with one of these, look for another one, or go with a different guitar altogether.

Yes, this is my first post. I’ve wanted a PRS to go along with my Strat for a long time, and have been reading these forums for a while, but never had anything to say until now. I’m not a complete guitar newbie, but I’m also not an expert. I just wanted to ask the questions. Thanks for any thoughts.
 
It should be end of story if any have too of high frets unless the shop is willing to fix it. Setup will not be to your liking if buzzing occurs. The bridge lean does not matter. It’s expected, even on higher end PRS. The key is to relax the strings when making bridge adjustments. The tuning stability should be much better than a tremolo equipped guitar.

I don’t buy into weight of the guitar causing bright/darker tones. To me it’s all about the woods coming together and making something magical. That’s why strat guys will always say sit down and play them out first to figure which is more to your liking, even if it’s the same model.

I’d say find a different Paul SE. I’ve played some that are superb. With the SEs you have to test them out. They are not like cores where all are incredible.
 
I don’t buy into weight of the guitar causing bright/darker tones. To me it’s all about the woods coming together and making something magical. That’s why strat guys will always say sit down and play them out first to figure which is more to your liking, even if it’s the same model.
I agree it's all about the woods. I used to believe in the weight thing in the beginning during my Les Paul days. Truth is many Les Paul's were already meaty sounding and m on the heavier side. Fast forward to being able to play some 50s Les Paul's and custom shops, not all that heavy, but sounded magical. Fast forward some more to becoming a PRS guy, Paul blew that myth out of the water. Some of my lighter guitars are the best! It's all about the wood.

Heck, I thought all players, not just strat guys, played them all first to figure out which one is more to their liking.. I know I do, then decide which guitar to plug in. It doesn't need to have be acoustically bright or anytjing, but I do prefer a certain ring, feel, playability, and liveliness. When it has all those unplugged I typically have a winner.

Woods and craftsmanship far outweigh weight. Hello PRS!
 
I agree. The guitar needs to impress me acoustically before I even care to plug in. Electronics can always be changed. It’s much harder to correct sustain/ringing/etc
 
My core SAS didn’t sustain very well. My luthier suggested plastic or wood buttons on the tuners. That sure as hell did it!
 
Thanks for your comments. I agree the guitar needs to sound good acoustically before plugging it in. The comment about bridge leaning being normal is helpful, because I’ve read contradictory comments on this.

On the heavier guitar with the better tonal quality and sound stage, I can feel a greater amount of vibration in the guitar body ringing out. Probably the wood is more absorptive. Is this good or bad, or just personal preference? I assume this is why it has a lower acoustic volume (plugged in too), and I’m hearing the increased resonance/vibrations as the increased (and slightly annoying) chorus when plugged in?

It seems to struggle some with higher notes, which are not as loud and don’t sustain as well as the lighter guitar. Hammer-ons and bends are much lower in volume, to the point where they are sometimes difficult to hear or perform. I’m not sure if this is due to the tonal qualities of the guitar, or more to do with the lower action of this guitar? The sustain is not bad, but everything is at a lower volume, so it’s sometimes not as apparent as the other guitar (although that choral resonance is definitely there plugged in). Not sure if there is anything to help this?

The lighter guitar seems to have better sustain on high notes, along with greater overall volume (both acoustically and plugged on) - but with a harsher and slightly muddied tone, and less soundstage. Being that this guitar also had bad fret buzzing that’s likely due to a bad fret or nut, I can probably rule it out.
 
The SE models come with plastic tuners. It doesn't sustain specifically on the high E and G strings on the higher frets. There is also some symphonic resonance between the open B string and the low E string that is quite annoying. Not sure why an open B would resonate the low E, when it does not resonate the adjacent high E. Otherwise, the tone sounds very good, especially on the lower bass notes. Not as good and rather muted on high treble notes.
 
My core SAS didn’t sustain very well. My luthier suggested plastic or wood buttons on the tuners. That sure as hell did it!
Wait!?!?! I already swapped to ebony buttons on the SAS! Lol it's the KL33 I was thinking of going to ebony on as well. Man I got a problem!
 
Sounds to me like the guitars being tested out both need good setups on them. That can make a huge difference in them.
 
Sounds to me like the guitars being tested out both need good setups on them. That can make a huge difference in them.
EVERY NEW GUITAR needs a complete set up by either the shop, the shop's "tech", or by the buyer if he or she knows how to do it.

I've never been satisfied with a guitar right off the wall or right out of the box. I've always had to spend a few hours making it right for me.

Because they haven't owned many guitars, beginners, students and some intermediate players just don't don't get that.

They think a guitar can leave a factory in Indonesia, travel across the ocean from Indonesia to the USA and arrive with the perfect set up.

Nine times out of ten that ain't gonna happen.

Professionals know that, but most professionals can do the set up themselves...whether they play sax, violin...or guitar.

IMO, it's part of the skill set of being an advanced player or professional.
 
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EVERY NEW GUITAR needs a complete set up by either the shop, the shop's "tech", or by the buyer if he or she knows how to do it.

I've never been satisfied with a guitar right off the wall or right out of the box. I've always had to spend a few hours making it right for me.

Because they haven't owned many guitars, beginners, students and some intermediate players just don't don't get that.

They think a guitar can leave a factory in Indonesia, travel across the ocean from Indonesia to the USA and arrive with the perfect set up.

Nine times out of ten that ain't gonna happen.

Professionals know that, but most professionals can do the set up themselves...whether they play sax, violin...or guitar.

IMO, it's part of the skill set of being an advanced player or professional.
Agreed. The first thing I do with every guitar I have purchased is to go my own setup on it. I have done this so many times that I can do it in about 15 to 30 minutes depending on how far away from my typical setup it is. Once I decide that I like the guitar I will play it with the stock strings on it until they need changed. When I change the strings, I will focus a bit more on getting the pickups set where I like them best.
 
Agreed. The first thing I do with every guitar I have purchased is to go my own setup on it. I have done this so many times that I can do it in about 15 to 30 minutes depending on how far away from my typical setup it is. Once I decide that I like the guitar I will play it with the stock strings on it until they need changed. When I change the strings, I will focus a bit more on getting the pickups set where I like them best.
Yep. Just takes time and knowledge.

I guess I'm just getting tired of reading all the critical reports about SE's when I know I could fix 95% of the issues they're complaining about in half an hour!

Including rounding some fret ends if needed.
 
Yep. takes time and knowledge.

I guess I'm just getting tired of reading all the critical reports about SE's when I know I could fix 95% of the issues they're complaining about in half an hour!

Including rounding some fret ends if needed.
Agreed. The SE line costs a lot less than the core line. You can't compare the two. Compare the SE line to other imports on the rack and they are typically miles ahead of other brands in the same price range.
 
Agreed. The SE line costs a lot less than the core line. You can't compare the two. Compare the SE line to other imports on the rack and they are typically miles ahead of other brands in the same price range.
Couldn't agree more since most of my PRS guitars are SE's.

Only have three Core models and they're all 25 - 30 years old!
 
Agreed. The SE line costs a lot less than the core line. You can't compare the two. Compare the SE line to other imports on the rack and they are typically miles ahead of other brands in the same price range.
I think the se are great guitars, and can be phenomenal, but no longer think they are miles ahead of guitars in their price bracket and less. There are so many quality guitars out there for the $1k and under price bracket these days. Guitars manufacturer ingredients has come so far even the most budget guitars are miles ahead of what they use to be. I don't test them out often being mainly a PRS guy, but when I do I'm consistently impressed.
 
I think the se are great guitars, and can be phenomenal, but no longer think they are miles ahead of guitars in their price bracket and less. There are so many quality guitars out there for the $1k and under price bracket these days. Guitars manufacturer ingredients has come so far even the most budget guitars are miles ahead of what they use to be. I don't test them out often being mainly a PRS guy, but when I do I'm consistently impressed.
It's true. I'd choose to play a SE Paul over a 50 year old Gibson Melody Maker any day of the week.

The MelodyMaker might be worth more because it's an old Gibson. But it's a piece of crap.


 
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Really? That’s a new one on me. What kind (material) were your stock tuner buttons made of? ….. Now you’ve got me thinking..
It came with heavy metal buttons. My luthier is well trained, talented, and very observant. He told me to try that as a first step. He felt the guitar was out of balance sonically. He’s also a guitar player and former factory employee.
 
It came with heavy metal buttons.
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