Phase 3 Tuner disassemble

[Moondog Wily]

Does anyone know how I disassemble a PRS Phase 3 Tuner without complete removal? I want to take the brass cog out (see #1 in image below). I have tried removing the black screw on the back (see #2 in image below) and the locking bolts from the front and strings were removed. I did not want to try and pry that cog up without knowing if that was the proper way to disassemble or if disassembly is even possible without completely removing tuners (which I do NOT want to do). Thanks for any insights you can provide to me on this topic.

Also, does anyone know what the white stuff is in the spindles that turn the cog? Does that stuff ever need to be refreshed or replaced?

 

[Erick_S]

The white stuff is lithium grease. I always refresh it when rebuilding the tuners. The is no way to remove the brass worm gear with the tuner still installed. You need to remove the tuner. The wormgear has a friction fit with the brass post and is mechanically secured with the black screw. There is a thicker brass washer behind the wormgear wheel and a thin brass and thin cupped steel washer under the post. All of these receive grease when reassembling. To remove the wormgear from the post, first remove the black screw, then take a adequately-long spacer (looks like a short tube), then screw a 3.5mm screw into the end of the post. Make sure to use washers between the screw and the spacer tube...as you tighten the screw, it will provide traction and remove the post from the wormgear wheel.

I would advise against it, as there are lots of small parts, easy to lose, and there are two cupped washers (one behind the post, one behind the pock collar) that must be installed in the correct orientation. I have done it many time, but that was necessary to re-plate and/or re-build the tuners. It is a LOT of work...not something to be taken lightly as you can damage the tuners. If you do it, take picture as you disassemble and lay out the parts to make an exploded parts "diagram".

You haven't explained why exactly you want to remove the wormgear wheel?

 

[Moondog Wily]

The white stuff is lithium grease. I always refresh it when rebuilding the tuners. The is no way to remove the brass worm gear with the tuner still installed. You need to remove the tuner. The wormgear has a friction fit with the brass post and is mechanically secured with the black screw. There is a thicker brass washer behind the wormgear wheel and a thin brass and thin cupped steel washer under the post. All of these receive grease when reassembling. To remove the wormgear from the post, first remove the black screw, then take a adequately-long spacer (looks like a short tube), then screw a 3.5mm screw into the end of the post. Make sure to use washers between the screw and the spacer tube...as you tighten the screw, it will provide traction and remove the post from the wormgear wheel.

I would advise against it, as there are lots of small parts, easy to lose, and there are two cupped washers (one behind the post, one behind the pock collar) that must be installed in the correct orientation. I have done it many time, but that was necessary to re-plate and/or re-build the tuners. It is a LOT of work...not something to be taken lightly as you can damage the tuners. If you do it, take picture as you disassemble and lay out the parts to make an exploded parts "diagram".

You haven't explained why exactly you want to remove the wormgear wheel?

Wow, thanks for that perfect explanation! Exactly the kind of detail I was looking for!!

As for why I want to remove the wormgear wheel, well, it is kind of embarrassing, but I opened this can of worms, so I guess I should come clean. I want to set the tuners so that when all strings are at proper tension and intonation, the tuner buttons are in a uniform position. This logic has two supporting drivers. One is the look of having all the tuner buttons lined up (a little silly), but more important is, when i reach for them to make adjustments, I would like them to all be in the positon that is the most comfortable for me to grab and turn them (or very near that position). As a result of this second item, they would not be uniformly aligned on both sides (both reach and direction of turn would change between left and right sides), nor would the uniform alignment be parallel with nor 90deg to headstock. My back of the envelope math says about 45deg between those two positons but I would play with it (one on left side and one on right side) before I set them.

All that said, sounds a bit too complicated for what it is I am trying to accomplish. If I ever do have to remove the tuners for any reason though, I will reference this explanation and do it, but will not remove the tuners to do just this. It is simply not important enough nor worth the time.

Thanks again for your response @Erick_S , much appreciated!!!

 

[show_a_little_faith]

Wow, thanks for that perfect explanation! Exactly the kind of detail I was looking for!!

As for why I want to remove the wormgear wheel, well, it is kind of embarrassing, but I opened this can of worms, so I guess I should come clean. I want to set the tuners so that when all strings are at proper tension and intonation, the tuner buttons are in a uniform position. This logic has two supporting drivers. One is the look of having all the tuner buttons lined up (a little silly), but more important is, when i reach for them to make adjustments, I would like them to all be in the positon that is the most comfortable for me to grab and turn them (or very near that position). As a result of this second item, they would not be uniformly aligned on both sides (both reach and direction of turn would change between left and right sides), nor would the uniform alignment be parallel with nor 90deg to headstock. My back of the envelope math says about 45deg between those two positons but I would play with it (one on left side and one on right side) before I set them.

All that said, sounds a bit too complicated for what it is I am trying to accomplish. If I ever do have to remove the tuners for any reason though, I will reference this explanation and do it, but will not remove the tuners to do just this. It is simply not important enough nor worth the time.

Thanks again for your response @Erick_S , much appreciated!!!

I'd also mention that even if you achieved what you're trying for, it's not likely to last. Strings stretch/contract at different rates with humidity, temp, and just playing. In other words, the slight adjustments for keeping it in tune over time would almost certainly not be consistent across all 6 strings, and your uniformity would be gone. My OCD salutes your intent, but I agree it doesn't seem worth it

 

[DISTORT6]

I'd also mention that even if you achieved what you're trying for, it's not likely to last. Strings stretch/contract at different rates with humidity, temp, and just playing. In other words, the slight adjustments for keeping it in tune over time would almost certainly not be consistent across all 6 strings, and your uniformity would be gone. My OCD salutes your intent, but I agree it doesn't seem worth it

Shhhh! You’re crushing his dream!