Got GROVER 406C

[sadmoodyfrazier]

Finally I have my Grover locking tuners on my SE but I'm a little disappointed. Tuning is not so stable and snapped a couple of HIGH E. Hole in the tuning machine is off side so it's clear there are 2 way to string these pegs but there is no clue anywhere about which one is the correct one. Also these tuning machines are strange. There is a click when the string becomes locked from the side and not a screw which comes from underside like every other locking tuning machine. Hope these things won't snap other .10 high es.

 

[Boogie]

Those are nice tuners, though a string cut can happen occasionally. If you string the high E loosely and allow 2-3 winds on the post, you have enough to reconnect without scrapping it. Btw, you can use either hole.

Big Bend’s Nut Sauce on the nut will also help cut down on the resistance and further prevent breaks.

 

[sadmoodyfrazier]

Those are nice tuners, though a string cut can happen occasionally. If you string the high E loosely and allow 2-3 winds on the post, you have enough to reconnect without scrapping it. Btw, you can use either hole.

Big Bend’s Nut Sauce on the nut will also help cut down on the resistance and further prevent breaks.

2 or 3 winds on the post will make the locking tuner a normal one. The nut is ok. I've touched it. Seems that yesterday I strung the hi-e in the opposite locking direction (the wrong one) cause now the string is not breaking anymore and the tuning is almost frozen. Acceptably, at least.

 

[andy474x]

You may have found this info already, but the correct way to string those tuners is this: If you notice, the holes for the string are offset, not centered, in the tuner. Turn the outer sleeve and align it with the holes on the inner part. Then, turn the tuner key to get the string path to run parallel to the long axis of the neck, and with the enter/exit holes on the side nearest the center of the headstock. Run your string through, hold the free end tight, and turn the key to bring the string up to tension, and automatically lock the string. With the small plain strings (b and especially e), I’ve found that it’s important to keep tension on that free end of the string to get it to lock quickly, otherwise it slips a lot.

That being said, IMO the PRS locking tuners have a superior mechanism for better lock grip, less breaks, and overall user-friendly experience. But if you’re not in the states, they may be hard to get (especially right now).

 

[sadmoodyfrazier]

You may have found this info already, but the correct way to string those tuners is this: If you notice, the holes for the string are offset, not centered, in the tuner. Turn the outer sleeve and align it with the holes on the inner part. Then, turn the tuner key to get the string path to run parallel to the long axis of the neck, and with the enter/exit holes on the side nearest the center of the headstock. Run your string through, hold the free end tight, and turn the key to bring the string up to tension, and automatically lock the string. With the small plain strings (b and especially e), I’ve found that it’s important to keep tension on that free end of the string to get it to lock quickly, otherwise it slips a lot.

That being said, IMO the PRS locking tuners have a superior mechanism for better lock grip, less breaks, and overall user-friendly experience. But if you’re not in the states, they may be hard to get (especially right now).

Thank you for your explanation. I was not able to afford PRS ones, unfortunately.

 

[sergiodeblanc]

Yeah... I feel your pain, I have a set of Gotoh locking tuners that double as string cutters.

 

[sadmoodyfrazier]

Yeah... I feel your pain, I have a set of Gotoh locking tuners that double as string cutters.

Yesterday I've stringed an high E and it still resist. Maybe it's just a matter of the way you turn the tuning machine. Next time I will change strings I will pay attention at the instruction given by our friend andy474x and I'll pray. If thing doesn't go as they should I'll send an email directly to Grover to listen to what they have to say.

You may have found this info already, but the correct way to string those tuners is this: If you notice, the holes for the string are offset, not centered, in the tuner. Turn the outer sleeve and align it with the holes on the inner part. Then, turn the tuner key to get the string path to run parallel to the long axis of the neck, and with the enter/exit holes on the side nearest the center of the headstock. Run your string through, hold the free end tight, and turn the key to bring the string up to tension, and automatically lock the string. With the small plain strings (b and especially e), I’ve found that it’s important to keep tension on that free end of the string to get it to lock quickly, otherwise it slips a lot.

That being said, IMO the PRS locking tuners have a superior mechanism for better lock grip, less breaks, and overall user-friendly experience. But if you’re not in the states, they may be hard to get (especially right now).

 

[Ovibos]

Weird, I've never had them break strings on the 2 SEs I had them on.

As @andy474x says the holes need to be aligned and clicked before you thread the string in, and the offset of them is definitely a bit mind-melty late at night.

 

[sadmoodyfrazier]

Weird, I've never had them break strings on the 2 SEs I had them on.

As @andy474x says the holes need to be aligned and clicked before you thread the string in, and the offset of them is definitely a bit mind-melty late at night.

Yes... he says that the hole should be closer to the center of the headstock before inserting the string.

 

[Ovibos]

Yes... he says that the hole should be closer to the center of the headstock before inserting the string.

I don't worry about that, I just spin the post around so that it clicks with the holes aligned and then thread the string.

 

[sadmoodyfrazier]

I don't worry about that, I just spin the post around so that it clicks with the holes aligned and then thread the string.

I did it like that but I've had a sharp edge that cut my HI E string. Now I didn't pay attention how I did it the second time but I've got no problems and a less sharper edge and I see that there is a difference between some of the string I strung and others... so it's clear that there are two ways to string these tuning machines. One better than the other.

 

[garrett]

I've had a few sets of these, beginning around 2007 or so. I loved them and recommended them often because they were inexpensive and they all worked reliably (same functionality as the old Phase I tuners, really) until the most recent set I got in 2018.

Didn't take long to snap two high E strings. I lost all confidence in them and took them off. Never again.

I've read elsewhere that the post hole can develop burrs due to the small string cutting into it. Then the string rubs across it and breaks. The solution is to take the tuner apart and file the post hole smooth. I disassembled it, but then I didn't bother to follow through with fixing it. I should just toss the whole set in the bin.

 

[sadmoodyfrazier]

I've had a few sets of these, beginning around 2007 or so. I loved them and recommended them often because they were inexpensive and they all worked reliably (same functionality as the old Phase I tuners, really) until the most recent set I got in 2018.

Didn't take long to snap two high E strings. I lost all confidence in them and took them off. Never again.

I've read elsewhere that the post hole can develop burrs due to the small string cutting into it. Then the string rubs across it and breaks. The solution is to take the tuner apart and file the post hole smooth. I disassembled it, but then I didn't bother to follow through with fixing it. I should just toss the whole set in the bin.

I can't say right now... I have to experiment more. Since I've mounted the new HI E seems holding tune and not snapping... We'll see.

 

[swstandring]

I swear by these although they are definitely less user friendly at first and take some getting used to. I broke some E strings at first and almost swore them off too.

andy474x's explanation above is absolutely dead on, follow it to the letter and you’ll be fine. I found that using a short piece of the old low E string is useful as a guide when first lining up the holes. Take the time up front to get the holes lined up correctly and you’ll be fine. The hole is offset and the offset has to be towards the center.

 

[sadmoodyfrazier]

Ok... today I've changed strings and everything gone OK with @andy474x instruction. Just follow that steps and everything is gonna be all right. Also I tried to cover pickups but the lady squeals like hell so I took off the covers.