Why the nitro switch?

Each Guitar Is Unique In Its Sound And There Is No Honest And Legitimate Way Of Knowing Which Sounds Better Unless You Finish The Same Guitar In The Various Finishes. It Is Speculation At Best And That Can Be Fun But Not Definitive. If the Guitar Feels Good, Plays Good And Sounds Good To Me Then I Am Ok With Whatever Finish It Has. Finding That Lighting In A Bottle In Any Guitar Is No Easy Task So When I Find One I Fall In Love With I Am Thrilled And If I Can Buy It I Do So. YMMV
 
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Just out of curiosity, has anyone ever stripped and refinished a Korean made SE?

I have a Korean made SE Soapbar and the glossy finish is thick. It must affect the sound and I wish it sounded more like an old Les Paul Jr.

I don't see myself stripping and refinishing it. It's too nice as it is.

Just wondering if anyone HAS, and how they removed the finish and if it was a chore.

I've read that you can use a heat gun and peel off some of those poly finishes!
 
I'm not a fan. Give me poly all day. Virtually indestructible (which is nice on a $5000 guitar), and I can use Pledge or anything for polish- no need for "special formulations that won't hurt poly"). I have a slight, small dent on the back of my DGTs neck from, I guess, leaning it up against and amp... that would not have happened with poly.

Plus this new nitro BS formula they are using isn't perfected- I had to send my DGT back within 3 weeks for a finish fix, and to be honest, it needs another one. Free or not, it's a PITA to deal with and shouldn't be an issue with a $5000 guitar.
 
Plus this new nitro BS formula they are using isn't perfected- I had to send my DGT back within 3 weeks for a finish fix, and to be honest, it needs another one. Free or not, it's a PITA to deal with and shouldn't be an issue with a $5000 guitar.
I've had to send a couple of poly PRS' in for a finish problem over the years - the finish peeling away or flaking next to the fretboard. Others have experienced the poly finishes separating from the wood and causing white clouding. This isn't news, it's been a long time complaint about the poly finishes.

But it didn't always happen; I had nearly 30 with the poly and only had two that needed repair, which was done perfectly and never had a problem with the guitars afterward.

I've now had 7 or 8 with the nitro finish, including the 5 I currently have, and have not had a single problem. The nitro isn't BS. The PRS nitro is very similar to the nitro Collings uses.

I am sure no finish is perfect; it's all a matter of preference. Sure, you have to be a bit more careful with it, but it seems to me that a $5000+ guitar should not have the same finish as the ubiquitous, inexpensive imports.
 
Just out of curiosity, has anyone ever stripped and refinished a Korean made SE?

I have a Korean made SE Soapbar and the glossy finish is thick. It must affect the sound and I wish it sounded more like an old Les Paul Jr.

I don't see myself stripping and refinishing it. It's too nice as it is.

Just wondering if anyone HAS, and how they removed the finish and if it was a chore.

I've read that you can use a heat gun and peel off some of those poly finishes!
Sergio did with a Bernie. Turned it into a relic’d gold top.

 
I've had to send a couple of poly PRS' in for a finish problem over the years - the finish peeling away or flaking next to the fretboard. Others have experienced the poly finishes separating from the wood and causing white clouding. This isn't news, it's been a long time complaint about the poly finishes.

But it didn't always happen; I had nearly 30 with the poly and only had two that needed repair, which was done perfectly and never had a problem with the guitars afterward.

I've now had 7 or 8 with the nitro finish, including the 5 I currently have, and have not had a single problem. The nitro isn't BS. The PRS nitro is very similar to the nitro Collings uses.

I am sure no finish is perfect; it's all a matter of preference. Sure, you have to be a bit more careful with it, but it seems to me that a $5000+ guitar should not have the same finish as the ubiquitous, inexpensive imports.
I noticed two small spots next to the fretboard on my 2007 McCarty where the finish cracked. It isn’t detectable physically, only visually.
 
I'm not a fan. Give me poly all day. Virtually indestructible (which is nice on a $5000 guitar), and I can use Pledge or anything for polish- no need for "special formulations that won't hurt poly"). I have a slight, small dent on the back of my DGTs neck from, I guess, leaning it up against and amp... that would not have happened with poly.

Plus this new nitro BS formula they are using isn't perfected- I had to send my DGT back within 3 weeks for a finish fix, and to be honest, it needs another one. Free or not, it's a PITA to deal with and shouldn't be an issue with a $5000 guitar.
Just goes to show - different strokes and all that......

The handmade guitars I play are all nitro, and I expect them to get wings and dings, and to lose finish in areas where they're getting a lot of skin contact over the years. I like checking too, as it adds character.

The one thing I never do, however, is put the back of a guitar neck up against anything.

All my guitars, if I'm resting them against an amp, go fingerboard side down (and are placed that way reasonably carefully). Doing anything else is a passport to indentations in the back of the neck, which I dislike intensely. So I never do it.
 
Just goes to show - different strokes and all that......

The handmade guitars I play are all nitro, and I expect them to get wings and dings, and to lose finish in areas where they're getting a lot of skin contact over the years. I like checking too, as it adds character.

The one thing I never do, however, is put the back of a guitar neck up against anything.

All my guitars, if I'm resting them against an amp, go fingerboard side down (and are placed that way reasonably carefully). Doing anything else is a passport to indentations in the back of the neck, which I dislike intensely. So I never do it.

I do that too- fingerboard side down, until I noticed my tele was leaving string indents in my knotty pine cabinet PRRI. No worries on that with tweed or tolex, of course.
 
All my guitars, if I'm resting them against an amp, go fingerboard side down (and are placed that way reasonably carefully). Doing anything else is a passport to indentations in the back of the neck, which I dislike intensely. So I never do it.

I thought that was the 'proper' way to put a guitar down if 'leaning' against an Amp (or similar). For a start, the neck is rounded and polished so only has a small contact point and smooth too which has a lot less friction and therefore a higher probability of sliding/moving versus a flatter, wider surface with strings adding to the friction too.

Of all things, the neck itself is the most important area to 'protect' from dings/dents as that is the area you have the most contact with, so I make sure not to lean the neck against something 'hard' that 'could' affect the neck - and that includes using cushioned stands not designed for 'Nitro' finishes that will affect that too. I see some guitars that have been 'wall hung' too that have the tell-tale signs of not using Nitro-safe hangers.

I tend to use a Hercules Stand - the Shocksafe one so its almost impossible to knock over or put it back in its case - depending on whether I'm pausing for a minute or two or not likely to be back to play for 30mins or longer. I also have Cats so I don't want to leave ANY guitar out and certainly not just leaning against something. If I have to lean it up for a second, I always lean it up face down on the strings/fretboard.

Paul himself does this too - watch the Rick Beato video - although you'll need to wait until the end when he finishes the interview and has 'no' stand for the 'Paul's' guitar so rests it against the amp - face down...

 
I've had to send a couple of poly PRS' in for a finish problem over the years - the finish peeling away or flaking next to the fretboard. Others have experienced the poly finishes separating from the wood and causing white clouding. This isn't news, it's been a long time complaint about the poly finishes.

But it didn't always happen; I had nearly 30 with the poly and only had two that needed repair, which was done perfectly and never had a problem with the guitars afterward.

I've now had 7 or 8 with the nitro finish, including the 5 I currently have, and have not had a single problem. The nitro isn't BS. The PRS nitro is very similar to the nitro Collings uses.

I am sure no finish is perfect; it's all a matter of preference. Sure, you have to be a bit more careful with it, but it seems to me that a $5000+ guitar should not have the same finish as the ubiquitous, inexpensive imports.
The one I had to send back for a cloudy finish was the V12 finish.
 
Not an expert, but I don't think that it makes much difference other than the thinness of the paint.... even then, it probably matters less on an electric guitar, it probably doesn't matter much poly or nitro. Fender has been using poly since 68.... Gilmore's black strat is a 69 and most likely poly. He has amazing tone.

All that being said, nitro looks way cooler when worn and cracked. Poly will never really look that cool worn.
 
Oh, there might be some micro tone change that people hear better than me. I think PRS did it for as much as a marketing move as anything. People paying big dollars for guitars tend to want nitro because it's what the old guitars had.
 
Not an expert, but I don't think that it makes much difference other than the thinness of the paint.... even then, it probably matters less on an electric guitar, it probably doesn't matter much poly or nitro. Fender has been using poly since 68.... Gilmore's black strat is a 69 and most likely poly. He has amazing tone.

All that being said, nitro looks way cooler when worn and cracked. Poly will never really look that cool worn.
The poly Fender uses is pretty thick too. I didn't realize how thick it was until a friend of mine bought an American Standard Tele exactly like one I had the he really liked. He was carrying it through his kitchen one day and lost his grip on it somehow and it hit the tile floor. It chipped the finish off of the bottom of the guitar by where the input jack is. He showed it to me. That finish is about 10x thicker than I thought they were. They actually form the corners on the body with the poly. The wood under it has much more of a radius on it. The real interesting thing with this is that it was a three color sunburst finish. You can see the wood grain except for the black edge.

Paul has been very vocal about how the finish on a guitar needs to be as this as possible no matter what it is.
 
Poly finishes don't have to be thick. Taylor uses a system to spray very thin poly finishes on their high end instruments and nobody is accusing them of being cheap or lower perceived value. If anything, the impact on tone and resonance would be much more important on an acoustic.

I appreciate all the responses but most feedback seems to be personal preference. I'd be interested to see some objective data about the specific properties of each.
 
Poly finishes don't have to be thick. Taylor uses a system to spray very thin poly finishes on their high end instruments and nobody is accusing them of being cheap or lower perceived value. If anything, the impact on tone and resonance would be much more important on an acoustic.

I appreciate all the responses but most feedback seems to be personal preference. I'd be interested to see some objective data about the specific properties of each.
At the end of the day, it always comes down to 'preference' and/or perceived 'qualities/values'. There are some who may prefer Nitro purely for it's historic aging qualities and way it wears, maybe even just it's smell over any tonal/playable/etc reasons and some will use internet information (not all of it 'accurate based on scientific study) to 'justify' why one is superior...

However, nowadays, you don't have a choice of 'nitro' in the low/budget end of the Electric Guitar market and 'nitro' is only on high end instruments - all cheap guitars use 'poly' 'despite' the fact that the application and formula may well be a long way from 'high end' poly finishes so ergo 'nitro must be an 'expensive' finish and poly 'cheap', or maybe their only 'experience' with 'poly' is thick horrible cheap poly finishes on budget guitars so think 'poly' is all like that...

If the 'market' thinks all high end 'electric' guitars should be Nitro because 'reasons' and its impacting Sales decisions, then it makes a difference in that way too. You'll always have 'someone' that 'prefers' whatever came before some Change or can't see the point in the 'change' but how much is preference, how much is backed by scientific objective research or circumstantial evidence?

The one thing PRS himself believes it that the finish should be thin. Something Taylor Acoustic poly finishes are too but also 'hard' so they wear very well to protect the instrument, not just the 'finish' but the guitar so it lasts lifetimes of play.

Its not just the 'connoisseurs' of the guitar buying market they are 'selling' too, but those who will modify and expect certain things, never play Acoustics and never played a guitar over a price point - hard cases for example, Stainless Steel Frets, Nitro finishes - because these are seen as 'Premium' upgrades over 'budget' guitars - that's what the market shows them - Gibson/Fender 'exempt' on Historic grounds - but PRS a 'modern forward thinking' Company should....

And yes, I prefer PRS previous Poly Finish because I would prefer a Finish that I know isn't going to age, wear, crack or be affected by what stand I use, what may come into contact with etc the finish as Nitro takes 'more care' to keep it looking like 'new' as Poly can for years with care and still play - yes some minor 'dents' in the back from buckles but not as messed up as 'some' Nitro guitars are. But I still have a PRS with the Nitro finish because I couldn't care less how it was finished when 'playing' it. I am much more careful with how I care for it, but it still is in my collection and gets played!

The Connoisseurs will buy it because its a great PRS guitar and it 'works' for them regardless - but maybe its 'Market' demand/expectation or maybe the Company and artists as a whole 'prefer' their new 'Nitro' finish, who really knows here and does it really matter? If the Instrument is telling me to 'buy', I'm not considering how it was finished. Only time it matters is when it makes me consider how its finished rather than not caring after playing it...
 
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So, I have an s2 594, a ce24, s2 vela satin and a core cu22 (2000 so it’s poly)

The finish on the 594 is ridiculously thin and sensitive. I’ve only had it it for a couple weeks and I’ve seemed to put several dings in it. I’m not mad but damn lol.
 
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