What makes PRS a 5000$ guitar?

I don't own a 10-top personally and I love the tops on my guitars - all 'unique'

From the 1-piece top/back on my HBii....
hH2MVYV.jpg


and my Chevron style Custom 24...
90ar3Kw.jpg


to my Special with its mix of Flame and Grain
c28uC1I.jpg


I really don't feel like I am missing out by not having a little 10 on the back of the headstock. I much prefer these to 10-tops that look like someone used a ruler to draw on very even straight 'flame' across the top - although I do tend to prefer Quilt which you don't often see on regular Core.

From my perspective, that is what I consider more of a 'Cosmetic' upgrade - like paying more to have Metallic paint on your car but doesn't make it drive, perform, or feel any different. I don't begrudge anyone paying more to have a Top that they really love the look of above others but I also think that is a personal choice. Someone 'decided' that piece of Maple looked better in their opinion so graded it higher, but you may 'prefer' the look of a non 10-top once its finished in a colour you love...
Hmmm, something in the forum update made the pictures not show for me. However, when I quoted your post, they show in the quote for me. Very strange. Add that when I clicked to post my reply, the pictures disappeared again.
 
Hmmm, something in the forum update made the pictures not show for me. However, when I quoted your post, they show in the quote for me. Very strange. Add that when I clicked to post my reply, the pictures disappeared again.
Yeah - they showed for me when writing it, but as soon as I posted, they seem 'broken' so I have made a post to ask if something has changed, broken etc as I cannot get them to 'show' when posted...

EDIT: And they also show up in the email I got of your reply too but not on the site
 
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I don't own a 10-top personally and I love the tops on my guitars - all 'unique'

From the 1-piece top/back on my HBii....
hH2MVYV.jpg


and my Chevron style Custom 24...
90ar3Kw.jpg


to my Special with its mix of Flame and Grain
c28uC1I.jpg


I really don't feel like I am missing out by not having a little 10 on the back of the headstock. I much prefer these to 10-tops that look like someone used a ruler to draw on very even straight 'flame' across the top - although I do tend to prefer Quilt which you don't often see on regular Core.

From my perspective, that is what I consider more of a 'Cosmetic' upgrade - like paying more to have Metallic paint on your car but doesn't make it drive, perform, or feel any different. I don't begrudge anyone paying more to have a Top that they really love the look of above others but I also think that is a personal choice. Someone 'decided' that piece of Maple looked better in their opinion so graded it higher, but you may 'prefer' the look of a non 10-top once its finished in a colour you love...

My DGT is a 10-top, but that had zero influence on my buying it. It was simply the finish I wanted when I was looking for a DGT. Frankly, I would have appreciated a non-10 top just as much, maybe even moreso with the savings LOL.
 
I'd say the Fender and Gibsons are overpriced, when compared to the PRS 5grand core models. And yes, even Custom Shops. I do think 5K is too much for pretty much any solid body guitar (especially one made by CNC machines), but at least they are pretty much perfect out of the box. Fender CS can be hit-or-miss, and Gibson is all over the place. I couldn't imagine paying 5K for a Fender or Gibson CS, but did pay 5K for a PRS core (DGT. Not even custom shop).
I agree that Fender and Gibson CS guitars are overpriced as well. PRS really delivers a no holds back guitar at these price points. Even some older core models will be competitive to the CS from Gibson and Fender. I haven't put my hands on the slightly new formula of core PRS guitars yet, I'm sure they are awesome though.

I have had several Gibby CS guitars and still own one. My Fender CS guitars I sold all of them and just built what I wanted from Warmoth...I was pleasantly satisfied with that. That all said my Gibson CS green sparkle is my beater guitar lol...I gig it in when the gigs are terrible. So far so good.
 
I agree that Fender and Gibson CS guitars are overpriced as well. PRS really delivers a no holds back guitar at these price points. Even some older core models will be competitive to the CS from Gibson and Fender. I haven't put my hands on the slightly new formula of core PRS guitars yet, I'm sure they are awesome though.

I have had several Gibby CS guitars and still own one. My Fender CS guitars I sold all of them and just built what I wanted from Warmoth...I was pleasantly satisfied with that. That all said my Gibson CS green sparkle is my beater guitar lol...I gig it in when the gigs are terrible. So far so good.
I bought a new PRS Studio in the fall of last year. It is every bit as good as all of my other PRS core guitars. It just feels like home when I play it. I have been very happy with the sound and feel of it. The guy at the shop told me it was a good one and he was right. He said it took them 2 years to get it.
 
I would add to this to not compromise in your purchase when you make it. I have found for me that spending the extra money for the 10 top is worth it. I have one PRS that is a non 10 top. I really like the guitar for how it plays and sounds. However, when I look at it I really wish I had just spent a little more and got the full package of looks with it too.

My wife even knows this about me. When I bought my P22 Trem, I had it narrowed down to 2 guitars. This seems to be a pattern with me. When I am trying to decide I show my wife the pictures and ask her which one she likes better. When I did that with the P22 Trem she told me to buy the more expensive one because it is a 10 top. I have had no regrets with that guitar and am happy she told me to do that. I did the same with the PRS Stuido I bought last fall. That one was really the difference between two colors. They were both 10 tops. I am very happy with the one my wife liked. I was leaning in that direction anyway and her thought was just a confirmation for me. I would gladly pay a few hundred now to make the one non 10 top I have into a 10 top if it were possible.
Whenever I purchased a less expensive guitar when what I really wanted was more money, I would typically resolve the situation years later at a higher price!
 
I first got into PRS without playing one. I just liked them. I don’t have a local store to try them out. I found a good deal on a used one. Saved so much money and I love it. I have bought two McCarty 594s and a Santana Retro all used and at very good prices. I love them all.
 
I bought my first PRS (the green one to the left) when I was really looking for a Les Paul. It was WAY too much money, but it just felt right to buy it. I like to say it wouldn't let me leave the store without it. Now 18 years later, I'm still happy I paid WAY too much. What I didn't know then was the money isn't very much of a factor when, what you really want is a guitar you can bond with. That is what, in my mind, sets PRS apart. I bond with these guitars like no other.


And what used to be WAY too much money 18 years ago, is now a $2000 discount. Funny how time changes perspective.
 
I bought my first PRS (the green one to the left) when I was really looking for a Les Paul. It was WAY too much money, but it just felt right to buy it. I like to say it wouldn't let me leave the store without it. Now 18 years later, I'm still happy I paid WAY too much. What I didn't know then was the money isn't very much of a factor when, what you really want is a guitar you can bond with. That is what, in my mind, sets PRS apart. I bond with these guitars like no other.


And what used to be WAY too much money 18 years ago, is now a $2000 discount. Funny how time changes perspective.
Wisdom^^^
 
Any guitar can be worth the money and more if you bond with it, a 'cheap' guitar can be perfectly functional and maybe do the same job a much more expensive equivalent might, but its up to you to decide if the extra 'cost' is worth it. It can also be a hindrance if you're too afraid to 'play' it.

It's like do you need to buy the highest quality Chisel set if what you need is something you hope will do a job when needed? Do you need the most expensive highest quality Chef's knife set if you rarely cook enough to use them? If all you want to do is drive 5miles to work and back, you don't have to buy the highest Quality, most performant car, a much cheaper option maybe would be a better 'tool' for the job...

A PRS costs what it Costs, just like Gibson will charge what they feel their Guitars are priced at - inc of course whatever 'other' costs are incorporated (like retailers, distribution, all the staff not directly 'employed' in making that guitar, all the warranty and warranty 'fixes' etc) and you as a customer have to decide whether its 'worth' paying that cost to you.

If you only have a $100 after bills are paid, $1000 seems expensive let alone higher priced guitars so I also appreciate that some may not 'value' the differences the same way - as long as it 'works, sounds and plays' very similarly to a core, the 'feel' and/or other differences may not seem worth the extra - same could be said at S2 level too as they are fantastic instruments as well and great 'tools' for making music. At the end of the day, you can make great music on a cheap instrument, it's up to you to decide on whether it's worth it to you in your current circumstances to spend more or not.
 
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Any guitar can be worth the money and more if you bond with it, a 'cheap' guitar can be perfectly functional and maybe do the same job a much more expensive equivalent might, but its up to you to decide if the extra 'cost' is worth it. It can also be a hindrance if you're too afraid to 'play' it.

It's like do you need to buy the highest quality Chisel set if what you need is something you hope will do a job when needed? Do you need the most expensive highest quality Chef's knife set if you rarely cook enough to use them? If all you want to do is drive 5miles to work and back, you don't have to buy the highest Quality, most performant car, a much cheaper option maybe would be a better 'tool' for the job...

A PRS costs what it Costs, just like Gibson will charge what they feel their Guitars are priced at - inc of course whatever 'other' costs are incorporated (like retailers, distribution, all the staff not directly 'employed' in making that guitar, all the warranty and warranty 'fixes' etc) and you as a customer have to decide whether its 'worth' paying that cost to you.

If you only have a $100 after bills are paid, $1000 seems expensive let alone higher priced guitars so I also appreciate that some may not 'value' the differences the same way - as long as it 'works, sounds and plays' very similarly to a core, the 'feel' and/or other differences may not seem worth the extra - same could be said at S2 level too as they are fantastic instruments as well and great 'tools' for making music. At the end of the day, you can make great music on a cheap instrument, it's up to you to decide on whether it's worth it to you in your current circumstances to spend more or not.
Sorry for the detour...since you mentioned a good Chef's Knife. I finally decided to invest in a GOOD Chef's Knife about 5 years ago. I can't recommend doing this enough. It makes cutting so much easier. It really does make a difference in the finished product. You can get a good knife for $100 or less. Get good steel and keep it sharp.
 
Sorry for the detour...since you mentioned a good Chef's Knife. I finally decided to invest in a GOOD Chef's Knife about 5 years ago. I can't recommend doing this enough. It makes cutting so much easier. It really does make a difference in the finished product. You can get a good knife for $100 or less. Get good steel and keep it sharp.

What I meant by this is that you may not 'need' to spend the money on a Good Chefs knife costing over $100 if you maybe only use it once in a while and you could probably pick up a 'decent' Kitchen Knife set for $50 that is more than 'good' enough for your needs and/or skill level in the Kitchen. Maybe its better to buy the Knife 'block' than buy a Single Knife costing much more and use the money you saved elsewhere.

I'm not denying that the Chef's knife may stay sharper for longer or slice through Tomatoes with more ease than the Knife block version, but you still have to ask yourself is the 'extra' worth it for you - because that is very dependent on the Individual. Someone may 'value' the differences to spend more, another may decide the Knife block is more than adequate for their needs and would rather save the Money. Both knives could be Stainless steel that 'look' the same - same style handle too etc so you could ask what makes one knife much more expensive than a whole block of knives when both essentially do the 'same' job. Not to say that more expensive doesn't necessarily do 'something' better, its whether its 'worth' spending more to get that or whether the cheaper options are more than adequate, good enough for you, your needs etc

In your case, you deemed that a good Chef's knife was worth buying but I decided a Knife block was more than adequate for my needs. I deemed a PRS core to be worth the Extra over a S2 or SE, but someone else may think an SE is more than 'good enough' for what they need/want from a guitar...
 
What I meant by this is that you may not 'need' to spend the money on a Good Chefs knife costing over $100 if you maybe only use it once in a while and you could probably pick up a 'decent' Kitchen Knife set for $50 that is more than 'good' enough for your needs and/or skill level in the Kitchen. Maybe its better to buy the Knife 'block' than buy a Single Knife costing much more and use the money you saved elsewhere.

I'm not denying that the Chef's knife may stay sharper for longer or slice through Tomatoes with more ease than the Knife block version, but you still have to ask yourself is the 'extra' worth it for you - because that is very dependent on the Individual. Someone may 'value' the differences to spend more, another may decide the Knife block is more than adequate for their needs and would rather save the Money. Both knives could be Stainless steel that 'look' the same - same style handle too etc so you could ask what makes one knife much more expensive than a whole block of knives when both essentially do the 'same' job. Not to say that more expensive doesn't necessarily do 'something' better, its whether its 'worth' spending more to get that or whether the cheaper options are more than adequate, good enough for you, your needs etc

In your case, you deemed that a good Chef's knife was worth buying but I decided a Knife block was more than adequate for my needs. I deemed a PRS core to be worth the Extra over a S2 or SE, but someone else may think an SE is more than 'good enough' for what they need/want from a guitar...
I am with you. My comment was more about how surprised I was at how much a difference a good knife made. The build and balance really do make a difference in performance. Some may not think they are worth the money, as you mentioned. In my case, I found it was. I am also one that finds the core PRS guitars to be a perfect fit for me and worth the price. In the end, it is worth trying the more expensive product to see how you like it. Someone may be surprised at how much of an improvement the higher priced item is.

As for cost, I have found that years later it wasn't a thing I thought about, unless I tried to save money and didn't get exactly what I wanted. The purchase may hurt a little at the moment but a year or more later, the cost isn't what I think about when I pick the guitar up. As someone else mentioned, what I paid for my guitars in the past would be a huge bargain today because everything goes up in price, not down.
 
What justifies the price of a USA-made PRS guitar are the preparation of the materials, the manufacturing process, and the attention to detail.

Those of us who have been fortunate enough to visit the PRS factory in Stevensville can testify to the lengths that PRS goes to in order to provide a consistently high quality product.

Preparation: PRS has a top-notch procurement and grading system for the woods used in their guitars. They start with quality ingredients and they season those ingredients perfectly. The wood drying rooms aren't just enormous, they're high-tech. Wood isn't just kiln dried like it is elsewhere. It's specifically dried to a measured 6% moisture content. I don't know of any other guitar maker that is doing this.

Manufacturing process: PRS claims it takes a month to build a guitar neck from a raw piece of wood. They dry the wood, do a rough cut of the neck shape, then put it back in the drying room. Then they do the basic back carve, and put it back in to be dried again. The month-long estimate is not an exaggeration. This is a drawn-out process that takes time, but ensures that the neck will be incredibly stable when it's finished. I don't know of any other guitar maker that is doing this.

Attention to detail: While at the factory I watched a CNC machine at work, and saw it drilling holes for switches and knobs in a guitar body. It went through a successive line of drill bits, smaller to larger, making the hole bigger with each bit. This struck me as something I would do when woodworking by hand, in order to improve the precision of where the hole was placed, but I was surprised to see it done even in an automated system like this -- I have seen guitar CNC work done elsewhere without going to that trouble. I asked about it and was told PRS did it that way to reduce bit travel and prevent chipping. I don't know whether other manufacturers do the same, but it struck me as being one of many small details that take more time and effort but add up to a more consistent and polished product. PRS manufactures its own hardware, from brass-impregnated nuts to aluminum stoptails with brass inserts to their own knife-edge tremolo system. They spec their own potentiometers with custom tapers. Paul himself studied the electrical and magnetic properties of guitar pickups so thoroughly that the research his team produced led to the founding of an entirely separate company that provides image enhancement for medical industry and the military. I don't know any other guitar maker that is doing all of this.

To put it bluntly: I don't know of another guitar factory on earth that has both the means and the will to put as much effort and technical prowess into the guitars they produce.
 
Only buy a guitar if you see the value in it. Don’t buy a guitar that you don’t see the value in. Your own experience as a player should tell you which guitars will be best for you; the rest of the world’s opinions are meaningless; you’re the only one whose opinion matters.

If you play it and then have to be told why it’s somehow better by a bunch of random people on the internet like us, or talked into buying it, it’s not worth it.

If the inherent value isn’t clear right from the start, and it doesn’t sound and play better than anything else in its price range, buying it would be foolish.

Paul Smith himself says for starters, play an open string on a PRS, use a stop watch to time how long it sustains, and do the same thing with another brand. He says the guitar that sustains longer is the better guitar.

For me it’s also about playability and tone quality. Plenty of guitars look great.

The thing that distinguishes an excellent instrument isn’t looks. That’s only surface stuff.

It is so unusual to find finish flaws on a PRS that you can easily find one that’s perfect, so if you like the way the brand plays and sounds, find one that meets your standards.

Also, if the dealer hands you a guitar of any brand that isn’t set up well, and doesn’t immediately offer to set it up correctly - especially a PRS - walk out of the store.
 
Manufacturing process: PRS claims it takes a month to build a guitar neck from a raw piece of wood. They dry the wood, do a rough cut of the neck shape, then put it back in the drying room. Then they do the basic back carve, and put it back in to be dried again. The month-long estimate is not an exaggeration. This is a drawn-out process that takes time, but ensures that the neck will be incredibly stable when it's finished. I don't know of any other guitar maker that is doing this.

To put it bluntly: I don't know of another guitar factory on earth that has both the means and the will to put as much effort and technical prowess into the guitars they produce.
Not slighting PRS in any way here. What you were told about the neck building is 100% on. It does take a month at least to make a good neck. It could take longer. I know of two other manufacturers that also take this long to make a neck for the same reasons you listed. There may be others but I am aware of two for sure.

PRS is just one of many company's using CNC machines. They all factor in bit travel. That is part of the programming. I used to work in a shop that was full of CNC machines. They can do some amazing things. I just wanted to say that PRS and guitar manufacturers in general are not the only ones using these machines for great things. Any CNC programmer worth their salt is looking at things like bit travel to make the machine run faster and have less wear on it.

I think the real PRS difference isn't the machinery. I think it is in the hand done parts of the building of the guitars. They have an attention to detail and quality that is second to none. They have very well trained, seasoned employees. This is something that not every builder has.
 
What justifies the price of a USA-made PRS guitar are the preparation of the materials, the manufacturing process, and the attention to detail.

Those of us who have been fortunate enough to visit the PRS factory in Stevensville can testify to the lengths that PRS goes to in order to provide a consistently high quality product.

Preparation: PRS has a top-notch procurement and grading system for the woods used in their guitars. They start with quality ingredients and they season those ingredients perfectly. The wood drying rooms aren't just enormous, they're high-tech. Wood isn't just kiln dried like it is elsewhere. It's specifically dried to a measured 6% moisture content. I don't know of any other guitar maker that is doing this.

Manufacturing process: PRS claims it takes a month to build a guitar neck from a raw piece of wood. They dry the wood, do a rough cut of the neck shape, then put it back in the drying room. Then they do the basic back carve, and put it back in to be dried again. The month-long estimate is not an exaggeration. This is a drawn-out process that takes time, but ensures that the neck will be incredibly stable when it's finished. I don't know of any other guitar maker that is doing this.

Attention to detail: While at the factory I watched a CNC machine at work, and saw it drilling holes for switches and knobs in a guitar body. It went through a successive line of drill bits, smaller to larger, making the hole bigger with each bit. This struck me as something I would do when woodworking by hand, in order to improve the precision of where the hole was placed, but I was surprised to see it done even in an automated system like this -- I have seen guitar CNC work done elsewhere without going to that trouble. I asked about it and was told PRS did it that way to reduce bit travel and prevent chipping. I don't know whether other manufacturers do the same, but it struck me as being one of many small details that take more time and effort but add up to a more consistent and polished product. PRS manufactures its own hardware, from brass-impregnated nuts to aluminum stoptails with brass inserts to their own knife-edge tremolo system. They spec their own potentiometers with custom tapers. Paul himself studied the electrical and magnetic properties of guitar pickups so thoroughly that the research his team produced led to the founding of an entirely separate company that provides image enhancement for medical industry and the military. I don't know any other guitar maker that is doing all of this.

To put it bluntly: I don't know of another guitar factory on earth that has both the means and the will to put as much effort and technical prowess into the guitars they produce.
PRS doesn’t manufacture their own hardware. They have it made to spec by suppliers they trust. Paul’s father was a mathematician, Paul has a very mathematical mind. He and his team did indeed figure out how to extract digital data that had been previously undetected. I buy them because they’re consistently the best guitars I’ve played in over 60 years of spanking the plank. And I’ve played some of the greats.
 
I get what people are saying about how a guitar is worth what a buyer is willing to pay, but I don't think that's really what OP is asking. He's asking what factors justify the price tag, not how buyers choose to justify the value of the guitar. Value is subjective, but pricing is not. While pricing may be influenced by what the market will bear, there's also a hard floor beneath which a manufacturer won't be able to turn a profit, and the factors that determine that floor are not subjective at all.

My point is that the extra effort that goes into preparation, manufacturing, and attention to detail costs more money in materials and labor costs., and that's what drives the price over that of most other manufacturers. Whether you think the result of that effort is worth paying for is up to you -- that's the subjective nature of value. My personal experience is that PRS charges a premium price for a premium product, but their guitars remain competitive against other similarly-priced guitars because they spend their manufacturing budget on better materials and processes than their competitors. How much better is a matter of perception, but to me, they're clearly ahead of the curve.
 
Q. What Makes PRS A $5000.00 Dollar Guitar?

A. Because Paul Hasn't Found A Way Yet To Justify Asking $6000.00 For It. ;)

To Me, PRS Makes The Most Road Worthy, Stable And Consistent Guitars. They Sound And Feel Great And They Look Almost As Good As I Do.
 
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