SE Mods

Discussion in 'Electric Instruments' started by slev, Apr 26, 2012.

  1. Ovibos

    Ovibos No, YOU'RE a New Member!

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    Totally normal, increased tension. A guitar is a machine: if you alter the parameters of one part, the whole system is affected.

    Next steps:
    1. Straighten the neck, unless you like a little relief
    2. Adjust the bridge angle by moving the claw back to pull the springs tighter - might want to loosen the strings a bit before tweaking claw, then tune back up
    3. Set your action by adjusting saddle height (this may not have changed a ton)
    4. Intonate with saddle depth
    5. Check pickup height if you've made changes to neck angle and action
     
  2. jdag

    jdag New Member

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    As always, the responsiveness and guidance on this forum is by far the best I've experienced across all forums I've participated on. Thanks a ton, guys. I am fixed. A slight adjustment of the claw screws and all is well. Now to see if I prefer the 10s over the 9s.
     
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  3. Ovibos

    Ovibos No, YOU'RE a New Member!

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    I was a 10s guy until (thanks to this forum) I discovered 9.5s. Best of both worlds.
     
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  4. jdag

    jdag New Member

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    Just spent about an hour playing...I think I like the 10s.

    It seems like all is well moving from the 9s to 10s on the SE Custom. I had read that there might be some issues based on nut size, but I think I am OK. I pulled up on the strings and they do not seem to be catching (with the possible exceptions of the low E and A, which I will check again).
     
  5. MichaelS

    MichaelS I'm here for the free kool-aid...

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    It's super easy to pop out the SE nut and stick a US Core nut on it. Or a little but of 220 grit or so if no nut file is handy...
    The US nut has a little wider string spacing: https://forums.prsguitars.com/threads/lessons-learned-us-parts-on-se.23926/
     
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  6. bodia

    bodia Authorities said.....best leave it.....unsolved

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    jdag likes this.
  7. jdag

    jdag New Member

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    This is certainly on my hit list. But I will say, I am a little concerned about doing it myself. It sounds easy enough to make the switch, but my concern would be the "hidden and resulting" issues I could cause. Hell, I just changed my strings and had 100 questions! Am I getting in too deep with a nut change?
     
  8. MichaelS

    MichaelS I'm here for the free kool-aid...

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    ... depends on how many left hands you have...
    1. you score the edge where the nut meets any finish with an x-acto (sp?) knife, to avoid it from coming off.
    2. with a wooden block parallel to the fretboard touching the nut, tap it lightly with a hammer
    3. nut flies off with ease due to the leverage from the side
    4. clean off any remaining glue if necessary
    5. use SMALL dab of super glue and put on new nut, the strings really hold the nut in place so no need for a lot of glue.

    I checked the string height of old vs new nut before putting it on (bottom of nut to string groove) to make sure I don't have to do any adjustment filing. The US core nut was a direct replacement. All I did was round off the sharp edge towards the hand above low E and below high e strings...
     
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  9. jdag

    jdag New Member

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    I am pretty handy...I suppose the worst case is that I mess it up and have to bring it to a luthier.

    I am a little confused about the "direct replacement" comment. From the other thread I was pointed to, the nut was a "tad slimmer" and had "wider spacing" of strings.
     
  10. MichaelS

    MichaelS I'm here for the free kool-aid...

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    yea, I was mostly referring to not having to sand down the height or mess with slots for string height. It does leave a tiny gap towards the headstock. I don't even see it anymore.
    And yes the string spacing is a little different than the SE as shown in the thread I posted.
    I don't feel a difference. But then again, I don't discriminate against neck widths, neck thicknesses, (most) neck shapes, or scale lengths either. "School bus" frets on GibsonUSA models however get rounded and crowned by my tech to make them playable.
     
  11. jdag

    jdag New Member

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    I've also read about a Graphtech Tusq nut being recommended replacement. I don't know the exact part number off hand. I'd appreciate any input relative to the PRS core vs Tusq options. I am not thrilled with the idea of any "gap".
     
  12. MichaelS

    MichaelS I'm here for the free kool-aid...

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    [​IMG]
    This is the extent of the gap... on a core I might care...
     
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  13. jdag

    jdag New Member

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    That looks both wider left-to-right as well as narrower top-to-bottom.

    I would want to look into the Tusq to determine if it is a perfect fit.
     
  14. MichaelS

    MichaelS I'm here for the free kool-aid...

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    It only looks wider because the camera was so close to it. It's perfectly flush with the neck.and fretboard.
     
  15. jdag

    jdag New Member

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  16. LTigh

    LTigh New Member

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    Yeah, that little gap will probably drive you bonkers if you have the OCD, but the improvements in tuning stability (and the fact that it's ready-made for 10s) is a great trade-off for me. Also, I didn't pay anywhere near full MSAP on the Orianthi I did this to (or the Friedman), so I weren't bovvered.

    [​IMG]

    And yes, it's perfectly flush. That's just a shadow or reflection or whatever you're seeing.
     
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  17. jdag

    jdag New Member

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    Honestly, and I know it is superficial, but it is a non-starter for me.
     
  18. Antmax

    Antmax New Member

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    If you have a wide fat PRS SE neck and want to use a Tusq nut then the Gibson spec PT-6010-00 and PT-6000-00 have the correct width and E - e string spacing. I got the PT-6010-00 for my Zach Myers. The Wide Fat has US spacing where most SE's have a narrower import spacing. PT-6010-00 required a lot of sanding down for height and the shorter 6000-00 might be easier being shorter. It also has the small gap between the nut and truss rod cover shown in a previous post being slightly thinner.

    They used a lot of glue along the length of my SE nut, it wasn't at all easy to remove. I'm used to a couple of drops just to hold it, they were a bit enthusiastic with their glue.
     
  19. jdag

    jdag New Member

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    I have a 2017 SE Custom 24, so the wide/thin neck. Is there an identically sized nut that offers the improvements? No sanding, no gaps...a perfect fit?
     
  20. Antmax

    Antmax New Member

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    Not from Graphtec no. You will have to sand down the height. Most nuts are intentionally taller than they need to be so you can adapt them to different guitars. It's not that hard to sand down though, just take it slow and check recheck the string height at the first fret with the third fret fretted as you go. You just need the tiniest gap like a business card height. If it's too high then you won't be able to get good intonation, if it's too low you will get buzz.

    The graphtec nuts are about $12 on amazon. So not that expensive if you make a mistake.

    I would have left the nut alone only my ZM is short scale and the guitar came with 9's which were like spagetti. Had to bend about 50% further and pick lighter than was comfortable to avoid buzz. Gtaphtec nuts are cut for 9 or 10 and the stock SE nut was clutching the 10 - 46 string set. Otherwise I would have just left the original nut on. Seemed easier to keep the original to make everything reversible and experiment with the graphtec. The Graphtec nuts with the correct spacing for wide PRS necks are not square cross section like the originals, they curve back like in the photo below.

    [​IMG]
     
    #1140 Antmax, Mar 15, 2018
    Last edited: Mar 15, 2018
    grausch likes this.

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