SE Mods

[bodia]

Anybody know if there are any kluson style tuners that would fit an SE245? I prefer the looks of kluson style tuners on a singlecut but would prefer to not have to drill out my headstock, if possible.

Yes, there are. Long story short; I was attempting to install PIII's on my Ted, but couldn't get the bushings out. I ended up with a locking set of Kluson's. I don't recall the model number though. I was just looking at their website and couldn't find them They lock from the top of the post. They work fine, and look like the originals. It looks like what they have on the website now all lock with a thumbscrew on the bottom.

Actually, I think it was these:

http://www.kluson.com/vintage-stamped-steel.html

3 on a side locking - about half way down the page.

 

[sergiodeblanc]

Yes, there are. Long story short; I was attempting to install PIII's on my Ted, but couldn't get the bushings out. I ended up with a locking set of Kluson's. I don't recall the model number though. I was just looking at their website and couldn't find them They lock from the top of the post. They work fine, and look like the originals. It looks like what they have on the website now all lock with a thumbscrew on the bottom.

Actually, I think it was these:

http://www.kluson.com/vintage-stamped-steel.html

3 on a side locking - about half way down the page.

I think he needs some with the washer and nut, like on some Gibson's since the 245 tuner holes are bigger than the Kluson ferrule type.

 

[drdoom8793]

I think he needs some with the washer and nut, like on some Gibson's since the 245 tuner holes are bigger than the Kluson ferrule type.

Yeah that's what I was thinking. A direct drop-in replacement doesn't seem to exist. Tuning stability is fine on my SE245 so I'll just leave the stock tuners for now.

However, I did use some Christmas money and gift cards to get some upgrades!

For my SE245:

• Core PRS nut
• Seymour Duncan sh-11 Custom Custom in the bridge
• Seymour Duncan sh-1 '59 in the neck

For my SE Custom 24:

• Core PRS nut
• John Mann's modded SE locking tuners

Pics to come after upgrades get completed!

 

[Antmax]

actually, MOST SE's come with 9's EXCEPT possibly the semi hollow Zach Meyers? and one other? they come with 10's but thanks. This one actually comes with the exact strings that i replaced the factory originals with. I used a caliper on the originals (remember that was where the problem began not with the replacements). The G strings miked out to 9.998 and 45.89. that made them 10-46's. I went and checked PRs site and it does say 9's for most SE models, and then it says a few exceptions to that rule were 10's and the baritone of course heavier.. Actually just went back and looked again for Zach Meyers and even under history of guitars his is not mentioned.
Did they have a falling out?
Anyway, I used graphite in the slots and played with it yesterday (have only had it for a week). The graphite and restretching the strings seemed to help a lot so I did it again lol. now its stayed in tune for an hour, so the nut was definatly the issue. I might put the 8's back on and see if I can do ok with them but I have pretty thick fingers, my daughters call tehm "sausage fingers" lol.... Anyway, thanks for the reply if I have any more issues I'll come back n report them.

My Zach Myers came with 9's and plenty of other people in various reviews have mentioned that theirs came with 9's too. One Youtube review didn't like the guitar initially, brittle and tuning problems till he upgraded the strings to 10's. The 9's on mine are like spaghetti and will have to be changed. I haven't done it yet since I don't want to have to widen the slots if the thicker strings stick. Going to order a replacement nut to use instead.

Here's a take two video where the reviewer gave the ZM a second chance with thicker gauge strings.

 

[charliefrench]

The 9's on mine are like spaghetti and will have to be changed. I haven't done it yet since I don't want to have to widen the slots if the thicker strings stick. Going to order a replacement nut to use instead.

Be extremely when careful removing the old nut. Those things are well glued on. I should know.

 

[Antmax]

Be extremely when careful removing the old nut. Those things are well glued on. I should know.

Will do. I'll be sure to score the edge to make sure the polyurethane on the neck doesn't get damaged too.

@daddski1 I had some old strings I was going to recycle, got a 0.010 and tried it in the stock Zach Myers nut. the e was a tight fit with some friction and slight grab when you lift the string out the slot. They cut the nuts really fine.

I also noticed that the graphtech nuts #PT-6643-00 recommended for the SE has narrower 35.22mm E - e string spacing to the stock PRS nut which is 36.20mm. Graphtech PT-6000-00 and PT-6010-00 have the correct spacing but are slightly thinner (roughly 1mm) like the PRS USA nuts.

Don't know if that's useful to anyone. Thought I'd share anyway.

 

[charliefrench]

Why not try widening the slots in your existing nut first. Finish the slots with fine grit sandpaper. Go for a real polished surface to make them nice and slippery. I use olive oil as a lubricant. If it does not work out then change the nut. If the new nut is not precut to your specs you will need to work on it anyway.

This thread may interest you.

https://forums.prsguitars.com/threads/can-you-repair-a-low-string-slot.21890/

 

[Boogie]

Going to order a replacement nut to use instead.

You should not need to make any nut adjustments until the bass string exceeds .048. Even then, a quick run-thru with a file on the one slot should cover it. I’ve run 11s (.011-.048) on every one of my PRSi without needing nut mods.

(Insert jokes here)

 

[Ken Mandu]

Bummer to be a new guy. This most likely interesting thread is unreadable due to its length.

 

[Boogie]

Bummer to be a new guy. This most likely interesting thread is unreadable due to its length.

Then you’ll really hate the Private Stock Friday thread. (its worth taking the time to review. If it generated that much response, it’s got to be good.)

 

[Kjetil Hallén]

Here are my latest SE mods!

Now my SE Santana has two coil split mini switches for its PRS 59/09 pickups.

Now my SE Custom 22 Semi Hollow Exotic Ebony Top has - guess what? - two coil split mini switches for its PRS 85/15 pickups.

Now my SE Custom 22 Semi Hollow has two coil split mini switches for its Lollar Imperial pickups.

(The pickups came with a 2008 McCarty as original McCarty pickups)

On each guitar, I added the modern 2013+ wiring with the two additional resistors effective in coil split mode.

I am very happy with these new sound options!

Like the mod a lot. I have searced for

Here are my latest SE mods!

Now my SE Santana has two coil split mini switches for its PRS 59/09 pickups.

Now my SE Custom 22 Semi Hollow Exotic Ebony Top has - guess what? - two coil split mini switches for its PRS 85/15 pickups.

Now my SE Custom 22 Semi Hollow has two coil split mini switches for its Lollar Imperial pickups.

(The pickups came with a 2008 McCarty as original McCarty pickups)

On each guitar, I added the modern 2013+ wiring with the two additional resistors effective in coil split mode.

I am very happy with these new sound options!

I like that mod. I want to buy the Se Santana, but the lack of coil-splits is holding me back.

Do you have schematics to this mod, I have tried to Google modern 2013+ without any luck? Thanks in advance (sorry for the bad English).

 

[Stoptail22]

I named it "modern 2013+" because in earlier years split coil mini switches were realized without any accompanying resistors. It is not an established term.

The most descriptive schematic can be found here: http://www.prsguitars.com/csc/schematics/2012/me_quatro_2012.pdf. Instead of using one switch for both pickups, I use one switch for each of them. I hope your pickups can be splitted at all. The original ones in my guitar do not have this feature, as I remember.

 

[Kjetil Hallén]

Thank you so much for Your reply. I have been told that the Santana pickups are four conductor. IF not, I'll buy new ones. It may be a yellow Santana to join the strat. Thanks again

 

[John Beef]

Thank you so much for Your reply. I have been told that the Santana pickups are four conductor. IF not, I'll buy new ones. It may be a yellow Santana to join the strat. Thanks again

It depends on what year the Santana was made. I have an 03 that looks a lot like the one above and it only had 2 conductor.

 

[tonytester]

Like the mod a lot. I have searced for




I like that mod. I want to buy the Se Santana, but the lack of coil-splits is holding me back.

Do you have schematics to this mod, I have tried to Google modern 2013+ without any luck? Thanks in advance (sorry for the bad English).

good job on the mods looks good
sounds good also. RIGHT

 

[MichaelS]

Bummer to be a new guy. This most likely interesting thread is unreadable due to its length.

Just look at the pictures!
The way I read books

 

[jdag]

So I changed my strings today, and decided to try 10s as I've always used 9s in the past. My 1st impression is that I do prefer the feel of the 10s, but it also could be simply that it is a different/new set of strings, so I will hold off judgement.

The strings seem to be sitting well in the stock SE Custom nut, which was the 1st thing I checked. But then I noticed that my bridge is resting significantly higher from the body. I assume that is because of the greater pulling tension from the thicker strings. Is that the case? Is that normal?

I currently have 4 springs on the trem, with 1 more extra in my bag. Is moving to 5 necessary? Or, do I just need to have the guitar professionally serviced or move back to 9s?

Thanks! John

 

[MichaelS]

So I changed my strings today, and decided to try 10s as I've always used 9s in the past. My 1st impression is that I do prefer the feel of the 10s, but it also could be simply that it is a different/new set of strings, so I will hold off judgement.

The strings seem to be sitting well in the stock SE Custom nut, which was the 1st thing I checked. But then I noticed that my bridge is resting significantly higher from the body. I assume that is because of the greater pulling tension from the thicker strings. Is that the case? Is that normal?

I currently have 4 springs on the trem, with 1 more extra in my bag. Is moving to 5 necessary? Or, do I just need to have the guitar professionally serviced or move back to 9s?

Thanks! John

You can try adding the spring and see what it does. Probably don't need more springs. That part is more about feel IMO.
My guess is that with either number of springs you'll need to adjust the screws holding in the claw to put the trem back in the proper position.
Also check the neck action after the trem is settled again. I doubt it, but it might need a quarter turn or so on the truss rod. Specs are on the prs site.

Off topic but for what it's worth, I've gone from 9s to 9.5s on the SE, but downtuned to Eb with the 9.5s. This ended up with roughly the same string tension and no need to adjust anything on trem or rod.

 

[bodia]

So I changed my strings today, and decided to try 10s as I've always used 9s in the past. My 1st impression is that I do prefer the feel of the 10s, but it also could be simply that it is a different/new set of strings, so I will hold off judgement.

The strings seem to be sitting well in the stock SE Custom nut, which was the 1st thing I checked. But then I noticed that my bridge is resting significantly higher from the body. I assume that is because of the greater pulling tension from the thicker strings. Is that the case? Is that normal?

I currently have 4 springs on the trem, with 1 more extra in my bag. Is moving to 5 necessary? Or, do I just need to have the guitar professionally serviced or move back to 9s?

Thanks! John

No need to go to 5. What you need to do is take the cover off the back that covers the trem cavity. Hose 4 springs are attached to a claw. The claw is mounted to the body with two screws. You need to tighten those screws a turn, or two. That will bring your trem back to level with the body.

 

[dkilpatrick]

No need to go to 5. What you need to do is take the cover off the back that covers the trem cavity. Hose 4 springs are attached to a claw. The claw is mounted to the body with two screws. You need to tighten those screws a turn, or two. That will bring your trem back to level with the body.

This ^