locking tuners
- Thread starter axe24
- Start date
lgk1208
New Member
Yes, but you'll have to drill new holes and fill in the old ones. Not a direct replacement.
CoreyT
PRS Addiction
New holes have to be drilled, and the old ones filled in show they do not show.
This is on my SG, as it is the only close up pic I have of new tuners added.
You can see the old holes are filled in.
You do not touch the big holes which are for the shaft.
There are a few brands of locking tuners that drop right in that allow you to use the stock screw holes.
Schaller M6, and Grovers, but I forget the part number for them.
This is on my SG, as it is the only close up pic I have of new tuners added.
You can see the old holes are filled in.
You do not touch the big holes which are for the shaft.
There are a few brands of locking tuners that drop right in that allow you to use the stock screw holes.
Schaller M6, and Grovers, but I forget the part number for them.
Last edited:
MOBirds
New Member
Grover 406C Mini Locking Rotomatics are drop in replacement for SE line.
John Beef
Opaque
[h=3]Winding Strings Around the Tuning Machines[/h]Step by step guide to restringing your acoustic guitar.
[h=2]Step 1:[/h]Bring the string down the center of the peghead and thread it out towards the tuner's knob.
[h=2]Step 2:[/h]Leaving a bit of string length to wind around the tuner, bend the string gently towards the top of the peghead.
[h=2]Step 3:[/h]Pass the string up and under itself.
[h=2]Step 4:[/h]Keeping tension on both ends of the string, fold the string over itself.
[h=2]Step 5:[/h]Continue to hold tension on the string and begin to wind.
The string should be wound down the shaft to increase the strings angle over the nut.
[h=2]The End Result[/h]The strings own winding "clamps" down on it to prevent string slippage.
[h=2]Step 1:[/h]Bring the string down the center of the peghead and thread it out towards the tuner's knob.
[h=2]Step 2:[/h]Leaving a bit of string length to wind around the tuner, bend the string gently towards the top of the peghead.
[h=2]Step 3:[/h]Pass the string up and under itself.
[h=2]Step 4:[/h]Keeping tension on both ends of the string, fold the string over itself.
[h=2]Step 5:[/h]Continue to hold tension on the string and begin to wind.
The string should be wound down the shaft to increase the strings angle over the nut.
[h=2]The End Result[/h]The strings own winding "clamps" down on it to prevent string slippage.
Thanks for posting those pics. I seem to have see a couple versions of that stringing method lately. One of the tutorials I saw basically demonstrated the same method but without the extra winds around the peg, thus eliminating the possibility of slippage. Its seems like a pretty effective locking method non-locking tuners.
dmatthews
Dave's not here
A friend of mine on another forum showed me exactly that a couple of months ago. The only string that needs a small amount extra is the high E. I now won't string up any other way. I can wail away on my McRosie ad nauseum and it is stable as a rock. Highly recommended to avoid the cost of locking tuners. I would replace standard tuners in a heartbeat if they were sloppy or just bad, but SE tuners are generally quite good. Now I can keep my McRosie all original. Bonus.
dogrocketp
I drank the PRS kool aid, and it was tasty!
I have a soapbar single cut that had sloppy tuners. I just replaced them with hipshot open back locking tuners, and now my tuning problems are gone. There is a mounting kit consisting of 4 small thin brackets that they provide. If you use these, no additional holes need to be drilled. These tuners weigh less and are American made. The guitar was slightly headstock heavy before. Problem solved !
