Wolfetone Pickups for PRS CU24

frankencat

Guitarded
Joined
May 8, 2012
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436
Location
Tampa Bay, FL
Spoke to Wolfe about a set for my CU24 and he said the Dr Vintage / Marshallhead would be great. I have Thornbucker / Thornbucker+ set in my other CU24 and want to try something maybe a little sweeter sounding in the neck and middle and maybe a little bit of chunky in the bridge. I know the Wolfetones are great in LPs but what how about in our awesome 24 fret PRS guitars? Anybody have this set?
 
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I had the MH/DrV combo in a se Cu24 core SAS (22 fret), and KL33 (24 and 24.5 scale). They sounded great in all. Especially the DrV neck in the SAS and KL. I probably would have kept them in the SAS, but I really wanted PRS pickups in it since it's core. Same with the KL. The Cu24 is a Floyd, and I wanted the DW tomahawks to scratch my itch for a DW.

They're kinda my default pickups to use when I'm trying to figure stuff out since I pulled them from a LP I moved. There hasn't been a guitar they sound bad in yet.
 
Wow so nobody else uses these? I know he doesn't make 53mm but that's not a deal breaker IMO. Anyhow tonight and tomorrow are the last days of his 25% of sale and I may just snag a set "just in case" ;)
 
I don't have that set but I have the Marshallheads in a Bernie Marsden. I think they would be way better than fine in a CE22 or 24.

I changed the magnets in my Marshallheads from the polished Alnico 5 that Wolfe provides (too much bass and too bright for me...I almost sold them at first!) to ROUGHCAST Alnico2 for more of the sound of an aggressive 57/08.

I'm extremely picky tho. Almost OCD abut my tone and many other things.

The PRS 57/08 is my favorite humbucker and it is an Alnico 2 pickup.

After the magnet swap the Marshallheads became some of my very favorite pickups too.

I dunno about the CE24. If it has a vibrato the Alnico 5 Marshallheads might give it some low end that vibratos sometimes take from a guitar.

I'd try them stock first. Might just love them as is.

I've thought long and hard about putting a set in my CE22.

Darn...gotta make my mind up. Today's the last day of his sale isn't it?
 
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Ask Wolfe to send you an A2 magnet. I typically prefer the A2, but there has been times I preferred the A5 in a guitar. Or vice versa and have him install the A2 and send you an A5. It's personal preference to tailor your tone.


Here's a long read about magnet surface that's floating out there that I have zero affiliation with:

"This comes up fairly regularly so I thought I'd just put together a comprehensive post, outlining some of what I've learned through my experiences and experiments with different foundries and magnets.



Rough cast guitar magnets and “polished” guitar magnets are made the same way (at a given foundry). The AlNiCo alloy is mixed, heated in a crucible until molten, then poured into green sand molds. Once filled, the molds are then subject to a calculated and complex series of heating and cooling cycles at different temperatures for different times, and usually exposure to strong magnetic fields during some of these cycles. All of this depends greatly on the particular type and properties of the magnet being made and the particulars of a given foundry. Variation in any of these can result in a different sounding magnet, at the end of the day.


The difference in manufacturing process comes after this. The "polished" magnets, having been cast a bit larger, are then run through a surface grinding process which grinds off the rough surfaces, bringing them to the final size on all sides, while being cooled in a solution to prevent heat from physically changing the material. That’s why I keep putting “polished” in quotes. They aren’t really polished at all and usually show tooling marks from the surface grinding. This same process is done to rough cast magnets, but only on the North and South polar faces, leaving the other four surfaces rough. Many rough cast magnets also end up being ground flatter on the other four surfaces, as well, if they are so rough and unusual in shape that they are outside the range of tolerance to fit the order. That’s why some rough magnets may appear to be smooth on only part of a surface.



Any differences heard between rough cast and polished magnets are likely due to the magnets coming from different foundries, or being made in different batches with loose tolerances or sloppy practices, rather than the actual surface texture of the magnet. Especially regarding inexpensive modern magnets.

Three “polished” magnets from three different foundries will likely measure and sound a bit different from each other.

Similarly, three rough cast magnets from three different foundries, will also likely meter and sound a little different from each other.

From the same foundry and time, a rough and “polished” magnet of the same type are likely to sound the same. Especially if they are from a precise and automated foundry with high standards and tight tolerances (but most aren't).


There are some rare times that a rough cast magnet can change the sound of a pickup due to the rough surface. It's not common, because generally both the polar faces of the magnet, which contact magnetic surfaces in the pickup (keeper bar and slugs), are surface ground flat, even on rough cast magnets. An example is some of the A3 magnets that Gibson used in P-90s in the early 1950's. They were made with only the South face of the magnet polished, with the North face left rough like the other four surfaces. That’s because in P-90s, the North polar surface faced the outside of the pickup, not making contact with anything, and only the South sides faced inward, contacting the keeper bar. In that case, when some of these magnets made their way into PAFs in 1957 (and, although very rare, I've seen them in pickups as late as the mid 1960's) this rough surface on the North polar face of the magnet which contacts the slugs could be so rough that it creates an air gap by having very poor contact with the slugs. Small air gaps cause magnets to do strange things in physics. This can change the sound, in rare cases.


So, generally, when a difference is heard between rough or "polished" humbucker bar magnets, it's because they came from different foundries or at least different runs of AlNiCo production. Some foundries, especially the lowest-bid type, can be extremely inconsistent. Not just the alloy used, but the heating/cooling cycles temperatures and times and field exposures all change the resulting properties of the magnet. I've seen how some of these foundries are run and experienced the results. The processes are not automated and terribly inconsistent. On the other hand, some magnets are cast here in the US with military precision and produce extremely consistent results. ...and one will pay for those. They cost quite a great deal more than the offshore alternatives. Further creating differences in magnets, some manufacturers go so far as having foundries alter the alloy or process to achieve somewhat different results for a given magnet type, intentionally. Some foundries follow these instructions well, some don’t. Others likely just ignore them entirely and ship what they ship. It can be a real mess depending who one deals with in manufacturing.



There is another type of polished-looking AlNiCo magnet, which is not sand cast at all. It's called a "sintered" magnet. Instead of having a molten iron-like alloy poured into green sand molds like the two described above, sintered magnets are made by pressing a powdered AlNiCo dust into a die, then compressing it under huge amounts of pressure and heat until it solidifies into a permanent shape. These magnets are magnetically weaker but cheaper to make.


I've not seen typical guitar magnets which are made with a sintering process yet, though it's possible they are out there. If you see flaws/exposed cavities in polished magnets, you know they are cast, then surface ground. Those flaws are bubbles and the sintering process doesn't allow for those bubbles/cavities.



At the end of the day, not all magnets of a given type achieve the same result in a guitar pickup. There are a great deal of variables in materials, process and tolerance that result in different chemical, physical and ultimately sonic properties of a pickup magnet. Control and consistency is how a manufacturer can use that to their advantage, rather than experience it as a problem. Personally, as I've tried to simplify and cut down on the types of magnets I use, over the years, I've only found valid reason to increase them. For example, I now stock five different A5 types, to achieve significantly different voicings in pickups. They really do sound noticeably different and measurements do reflect that they are different, as well. Magnets are relatively cheap, even for American ones. That's one upside. Pickup magnets are a rather inexpensive thing for musicians to play around with and experience the differences for themselves, in their own gear, compared to most of the equipment in the music industry. Happy swapping!"
 
Ask Wolfe to send you an A2 magnet. I typically prefer the A2, but there has been times I preferred the A5 in a guitar. Or vice versa and have him install the A2 and send you an A5. It's personal preference to tailor your tone.


Here's a long read about magnets that's floating out there that I have zero affiliation with:

"This comes up fairly regularly so I thought I'd just put together a comprehensive post, outlining some of what I've learned through my experiences and experiments with different foundries and magnets.



Rough cast guitar magnets and “polished” guitar magnets are made the same way (at a given foundry). The AlNiCo alloy is mixed, heated in a crucible until molten, then poured into green sand molds. Once filled, the molds are then subject to a calculated and complex series of heating and cooling cycles at different temperatures for different times, and usually exposure to strong magnetic fields during some of these cycles. All of this depends greatly on the particular type and properties of the magnet being made and the particulars of a given foundry. Variation in any of these can result in a different sounding magnet, at the end of the day.


The difference in manufacturing process comes after this. The "polished" magnets, having been cast a bit larger, are then run through a surface grinding process which grinds off the rough surfaces, bringing them to the final size on all sides, while being cooled in a solution to prevent heat from physically changing the material. That’s why I keep putting “polished” in quotes. They aren’t really polished at all and usually show tooling marks from the surface grinding. This same process is done to rough cast magnets, but only on the North and South polar faces, leaving the other four surfaces rough. Many rough cast magnets also end up being ground flatter on the other four surfaces, as well, if they are so rough and unusual in shape that they are outside the range of tolerance to fit the order. That’s why some rough magnets may appear to be smooth on only part of a surface.



Any differences heard between rough cast and polished magnets are likely due to the magnets coming from different foundries, or being made in different batches with loose tolerances or sloppy practices, rather than the actual surface texture of the magnet. Especially regarding inexpensive modern magnets.

Three “polished” magnets from three different foundries will likely measure and sound a bit different from each other.

Similarly, three rough cast magnets from three different foundries, will also likely meter and sound a little different from each other.

From the same foundry and time, a rough and “polished” magnet of the same type are likely to sound the same. Especially if they are from a precise and automated foundry with high standards and tight tolerances (but most aren't).


There are some rare times that a rough cast magnet can change the sound of a pickup due to the rough surface. It's not common, because generally both the polar faces of the magnet, which contact magnetic surfaces in the pickup (keeper bar and slugs), are surface ground flat, even on rough cast magnets. An example is some of the A3 magnets that Gibson used in P-90s in the early 1950's. They were made with only the South face of the magnet polished, with the North face left rough like the other four surfaces. That’s because in P-90s, the North polar surface faced the outside of the pickup, not making contact with anything, and only the South sides faced inward, contacting the keeper bar. In that case, when some of these magnets made their way into PAFs in 1957 (and, although very rare, I've seen them in pickups as late as the mid 1960's) this rough surface on the North polar face of the magnet which contacts the slugs could be so rough that it creates an air gap by having very poor contact with the slugs. Small air gaps cause magnets to do strange things in physics. This can change the sound, in rare cases.


So, generally, when a difference is heard between rough or "polished" humbucker bar magnets, it's because they came from different foundries or at least different runs of AlNiCo production. Some foundries, especially the lowest-bid type, can be extremely inconsistent. Not just the alloy used, but the heating/cooling cycles temperatures and times and field exposures all change the resulting properties of the magnet. I've seen how some of these foundries are run and experienced the results. The processes are not automated and terribly inconsistent. On the other hand, some magnets are cast here in the US with military precision and produce extremely consistent results. ...and one will pay for those. They cost quite a great deal more than the offshore alternatives. Further creating differences in magnets, some manufacturers go so far as having foundries alter the alloy or process to achieve somewhat different results for a given magnet type, intentionally. Some foundries follow these instructions well, some don’t. Others likely just ignore them entirely and ship what they ship. It can be a real mess depending who one deals with in manufacturing.



There is another type of polished-looking AlNiCo magnet, which is not sand cast at all. It's called a "sintered" magnet. Instead of having a molten iron-like alloy poured into green sand molds like the two described above, sintered magnets are made by pressing a powdered AlNiCo dust into a die, then compressing it under huge amounts of pressure and heat until it solidifies into a permanent shape. These magnets are magnetically weaker but cheaper to make.


I've not seen typical guitar magnets which are made with a sintering process yet, though it's possible they are out there. If you see flaws/exposed cavities in polished magnets, you know they are cast, then surface ground. Those flaws are bubbles and the sintering process doesn't allow for those bubbles/cavities.



At the end of the day, not all magnets of a given type achieve the same result in a guitar pickup. There are a great deal of variables in materials, process and tolerance that result in different chemical, physical and ultimately sonic properties of a pickup magnet. Control and consistency is how a manufacturer can use that to their advantage, rather than experience it as a problem. Personally, as I've tried to simplify and cut down on the types of magnets I use, over the years, I've only found valid reason to increase them. For example, I now stock five different A5 types, to achieve significantly different voicings in pickups. They really do sound noticeably different and measurements do reflect that they are different, as well. Magnets are relatively cheap, even for American ones. That's one upside. Pickup magnets are a rather inexpensive thing for musicians to play around with and experience the differences for themselves, in their own gear, compared to most of the equipment in the music industry. Happy swapping!"
I buy all of my magnets from ADDICTIONFX and have always been able to repeat any positive effect the magnet has on the tone of my pickups by using the exact same type magnet again in the same model pickup.

Wolfe winds some great pickups but he won't use ROUGHCAST magnets because he says he hears no difference between polished and roughcast.

Which is a shame because a discussion go no further because Wolfe just doesn't hear it.

I'm kind of same way tho and trust my own experiences over what someone tells me they think is true.

Seymour Duncan does hear the diff. He uses roughcast in his humbucking pickups made in the Duncan Custom Shop and in the Antiquitys. That's one thing that makes them "better" than those made on the line.

Sort of like SE vs. CORE. Sort of. The regular SD pickups are totally professional. We all know that.

I hear a difference with ROUGHCAST vs POLISHED too. I'll bet Paul Reed Smith does as well.

It's partially the way the sound blooms and feels as well as the rounder, warmer and more textured treble.

It's subtle and to hear that you have to be a very good guitarist who uses his or her pick and hands to shape the tone into something "beautiful".

Most beginning to intermediate guitarists haven't mastered that skill and it's partially why many keep asking: "How do I get Carlos Santana's tone?"

Same way you get to Carnegie Hall.

Do you like to squeeze those notes out and coax them into sustaining? You'll probably like ROUGHCAST because it takes some chops and a smooth finger vibrato to do that.
 
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I buy all of my magnets from ADDICTIONFX and have always been able to repeat any positive effect the magnet has on the tone of my pickups by using the exact same magnet again in the same model pickup.

Wolfe winds some great pickups but he won't use ROUGHCAST magnets because he says he hears no difference between polished and roughcast. Which is a shame.

Seymour Duncan does. He uses them in his pickups made in the Duncan Custom Shop. That's one thing that makes them better than those made on the line. Sort of like SE vs. CORE. Sort of. The regular SD pickups are totally professional too. We all know that.

But I hear a difference with ROUGHCAST vs POLISHED too. I'll bet Paul Reed Smith does as well.

It's partially the way the sound blooms and feels as well as the rounder, warmer and more textured treble.

It's subtle and to hear that you have to be a very good guitarist who uses his or her pick and hands to shape the tone into something "beautiful". Most beginning and intermediate guitarists haven't mastered that skill.

Do you like to squeeze those notes out and coax them into sustaining? You'll probably like ROUGHCAST because it takes some chops and a smooth finger vibrato to do that.

As always tone is subjective from person to person, player to player, and better isn't always better from one to another. Its the old saying, some like chocolate and others like vanilla. Personally Im a strawberry shake guy.

Either way the long quote above is worth read that's more than a tone report. Enjoy and happy tweaking!
 
Well I bought a set of Dr V / Mark II bridge. I don’t have any idea what guitar I am going to put them in so maybe I need another guitar :D
 
Well I bought a set of Dr V / Mark II bridge. I don’t have any idea what guitar I am going to put them in so maybe I need another guitar :D

And, put them in the CU24? Any comments on how it sounds?
 
So a Marshalhead mk2... got one in my CU22. Pretty cool, bright, but not thin. Very useable in church.

It was a little difficult to get a good idea how your guitar really sounds, because the mic picked up a lot acoustics from the guitar. Gueas you're happy with them?
 
I have a set of Wolfetone Marshallhead's that I'm going to be installing in my 1997 Custom 24. I'm going to try them stock w/ the A5 mag's they came with. Then I'm going to swap the A5's for a set of rough cast A4's that I bought from addictionfx. I'll either report back here, or on my thread I started a week ago about trying out different pickups in my CU24 & DGT.
 
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