PRS SE 35th Review

Draconomics

Fearless Papa of The Brethren of the Crust
Joined
May 27, 2020
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I was gonna wait till next year for another guitar, but once these blue burst versions came out, well....just take my money Paul. Figured I would do a review for anyone considering getting one. I'm gonna be honest, so here we go...Btw, this photo is the exact guitar I got.

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Observations:
- Finish is nearly flawless. Just a super tiny bead of glue seeping from the neck pocket, otherwise thats it.
- Looks like abalone birds, same as the Paul's Guitar (PG). Those are gorgeous.
- Top is pretty nice. As far as SE's Ive owned, seen, and played on, Id say a solid 7.5/10 (I call my PG a 10/10). There were tops I liked better but...
- I'm not pre-ordering at Sweetwater again. I never get to pick a particular item. I got lucky with the PG, and still lucky here too, but there were maybe two or three tops I liked a little more. Next time I'll just order as soon as I get notifications.
- Pretty nice three piece maple neck. Neck has a little flame going on, its subtle but its there.
- I'm very new to PRS trems, and have only tried some out here and there. This is the first PRS with a trem I've owned. As I understand it, these are molded trems, instead of the machined version on cores. I'm amazed at the size of the block, that thing is massive. To me these feel like an updated Strat bridge, so no Floyd Rose type craziness. Fine by me, I'm terrible at that stuff anyway. If I really gel with this guitar, probably will upgrade to a Mannmade bridge later on.
- I like the trem arm insert. You dont screw it in, it just holds there with a rubber bushing. Simple, effective, I like.
- Ugh...the nut material. Looks like the same thing that was on my PG. Its too soft and gouges out too quickly. I wish they would come standard with a Tusq nut. Its a cheap upgrade at like $12, and granted not everyone likes Tusq, but at this price point it should be standard in my opinion.
- Surprisingly solid tuners. They arent locking, but still quite decent. However...
- Tuners were all loose. One was basically doing the washing machine when I removed the strings. Surprised that made it thru THREE QC checks.
- Action was a bit high. After quick saddle adjustments, I found out why. Lots of low E fret buzz. When I say this thing needed a setup, I mean it. After doing so, all is well. Still a bit higher than I would like, but its fine.
- Several sorta unpolished frets. One even had fine gouges you could feel by running a fingernail over it. After doing a fret redress, they are perfect now. Oh...just noticed, the treble side of 4th fret is slightly out of its pocket. Its not bad, but the high e can get caught under it. Looks like its hammer time.
- Strings are grabby and real stiff. Some signs of oxidation. Straight to the trash bin.
- I think this has the same TCI(s) pickups as the PG's do. Really dig these pickups, easily the best in the SE line. They really do have a singing quality to them.
- Pretty clean routing jobs. Only a few chipped out places, but overall very clean.
- Oh dear! They mis-drilled a screw hole for the back plate! Not a huge deal, It works fine.
- Soldering looks very solid. We have Alpha pots again, these ones are branded "Made in Korea", whereas the PG pots dont have that. I might, sometime down the road, try soldering a new harness myself, just for fun. I havent attempted one in years.

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So overall what do I think and is it worth the price? Well, if it was my PG, I'd say huge "YES". That PG is one of the best guitars I've ever played, and is right up there with American PRS builds. I think that one was a fantastic value. This one...yes. Its worth the price, but at this time not quite as good value. That opinion may change over time, but I have to factor in that while the PG was setup near perfect from the factory, this needed some work to get to a state it deserves to be in. I know how to do that work so its just my time I spend, but honestly it needed some fret polishing, a truss adjustment, saddle adjustments, pickup height adjustments, new strings...a typical maybe $60 setup job. Granted, some of these are to suit my personal taste, but on things like the fret polishing, the loose tuners, the slightly lifting 4th fret...you get what I mean. I set that bar pretty high for PRS, especially after that amazing PG. Nonetheless, I would absolutely recommend this one. It sings beautifully, and I daresay the neck is better than the PG. I think its faster. The blue burst finish is just amazing.

Speaking of which....considering this is the same price as the PG, is this a better buy? At this point, this is essentially a PG with a maple neck and a trem. If I'm going by versatility, then yes the 35th Ani beats the PG. However, you get that sweet core bridge on the stoptail PG. Well, if you can...just buy em both. What else is money good for anyway?
 
Beautiful! Congrats

Disappointed about the problems, I might have sent it back, but glad you are handy enough to address the issues.

...If I'm going by versatility, then yes the 35th Ani beats the PG..... Well, if you can...just buy em both.....

I agree, and I did. ;) The 35th is one of the best, if not the best, SE that I have ever heard, absolutely sweet sounds, and it is right up there with many core models as far as sound. One helluva guitar for sure. :cool:
 
Beautiful! Congrats

Disappointed about the problems, I might have sent it back, but glad you are handy enough to address the issues.



I agree, and I did. ;) The 35th is one of the best, if not the best, SE that I have ever heard, absolutely sweet sounds, and it is right up there with many core models as far as sound. One helluva guitar for sure. :cool:

These are definitely the best SE's I've ever played. PRS has come a long way from the SE stuff they were habing built in the early 2000s. The quality lines between the imports and domestic made have totally blurred. I'm very impressed with the models this year. Sometimes you just get one that ain't quite there, but it happens with any guitar builder. I'm mulling over keeping this one but im leaning towards keeping it.
 
Sort of an update. I reached out to Sweetwater and they are supposed to put me in touch with their techs. Despite the fret issues, I really like this guitar and will likely keep it regardless. Its that neck, I'm in love the neck on this. Its about as fast and comfortable a neck as I've played in 15 years. After playing this and the PG for a few days, the PG feels chunky and slower by comparison. These are two different neck carves, but I'm still pretty amazed at the difference. I'll be taking this to my local luthier for an assessment as well and see if I'm right about a fret leveling, but if all the fret issues can be fixed, which they probably can...this will be the best playing guitar I have. After three days with it, I've come to understand and love this one.

I suppose to alter my conclusion, my 35th now feels like its worth more than the cost for sure, and to me that's the hallmark of the SE line: you feel like you get way more than you paid for. I only wish they'd change the nut material. If you get one of these, I advise to change the nut and get locking tuners. You wont regret it.
 
I have the black gold version and I just installed the locking tuners as well
Love the guitar and I also love the neck profile.
So far no nut issues , I use stewMac nut lube
On all my guitars and it’s good so far
 
I have the black gold version and I just installed the locking tuners as well
Love the guitar and I also love the neck profile.
So far no nut issues , I use stewMac nut lube
On all my guitars and it’s good so far

I use a graphite powder a local locksmith turned me on to. Been using it for over 10 years, works fantastic. My issues with the nut is I feel like its too soft a material. The one on my PG became gouged out after only a month. My lower E had cut about half a millimeter deeper into it, and most other strings did the same. After a bone nut installation, no further issues.
 
Are these 35th anniversary models not doing that well? They don't seem to be very popular...at least that's the way it seems.
 
Are these 35th anniversary models not doing that well? They don't seem to be very popular...at least that's the way it seems.

I think they're doing quite well. Sweetwater ran out of stock in a few days. It's a tough price point with a bunch of competition, but nonetheless they're great guitars.
 
I picked up a Black Gold version of the SE a few weeks back. My first PRS and absolutely blown away by the neck comfort and playability. The TCI pickups are incredible and versatile! To be balanced, the nut was horrible and tuning suffered because of it. Replaced the nut with a USA Fat/Wide nut and installed the locking tuners. Guitar is rock solid now.
 
I picked up a Black Gold version of the SE a few weeks back. My first PRS and absolutely blown away by the neck comfort and playability. The TCI pickups are incredible and versatile! To be balanced, the nut was horrible and tuning suffered because of it. Replaced the nut with a USA Fat/Wide nut and installed the locking tuners. Guitar is rock solid now.

Yup, I keep saying that about the nut. I dont know for sure what material it is, I've heard it called a graphite/plastic hybrid, or a synthetic bronze, but either way its not good. I notice when I use the trem I can hear little ping sounds at the nut. It means the nut is playing grabby with the strings.
 
I picked up a Black Gold version of the SE a few weeks back. My first PRS and absolutely blown away by the neck comfort and playability. The TCI pickups are incredible and versatile! To be balanced, the nut was horrible and tuning suffered because of it. Replaced the nut with a USA Fat/Wide nut and installed the locking tuners. Guitar is rock solid now.
Hi Gutch,
I just purchased 35th anniversary SE custom 24 and I am looking for a bone nut to replace the default nut. Can you suggest the nut you used?
 
I bought the Core wide/fat nut offered in the PRS store. Fit well width wise and needed just a bit of sanding to bring the height down a little. Made a huge difference in the tuning.

Link: https://us.prsaccessories.com/collections/s2-parts/products/string-nuts-set-of-2

Hope this helps - Good luck!
Thanks for the info! Anyway, did you change the nut by yourself? if so what glue did you use? I live in the country side so there's no guitar technician or luthier; I must change the nut by myself :(
 
Thanks for the info! Anyway, did you change the nut by yourself? if so what glue did you use? I live in the country side so there's no guitar technician or luthier; I must change the nut by myself :(

Since we're on my favorite subject, NUTS, I'll chime in too. I actually just swapped out the nut on my 35th for a Tusq nut yesterday. Definitely an improvement. Changing a nut wont make you a tone god overnight, but having your nut made with harder material is a plus.

As far as installation, can't speak for Gutch, but I'll offer my advice on nut replacement. Nuts almost always need to be shortened (not allways, but for the most part replacement nuts are taller than what you need), so you need to sand it. The trouble is ensuring you dont bevel the base of the nut, so you want to sand on a flat surface. Check often that the base is flat and perpendicular to the face side. I use super glue, nothing special. just a little dab on the base and thats it. You'll want to invest in a nut filing toolset. Generally if you buy a preslotted nut you may not have to do anything, but ideally you want your nut slots to conform to the fretboard radius and thus you may need a file set. There are the professional ones on StewMac, but the price will make your head spin. You can get by with a cheap micro file set off Amazon, so long as you keep in mind that cheap tools are cheap tools. Any filing you do, do it slowly. You can always take more material off but you can never put it back on. So changing a nut is not the easiest thing to do, but its a job you can absolutely do yourself.
 
Since we're on my favorite subject, NUTS, I'll chime in too. I actually just swapped out the nut on my 35th for a Tusq nut yesterday. Definitely an improvement. Changing a nut wont make you a tone god overnight, but having your nut made with harder material is a plus.

As far as installation, can't speak for Gutch, but I'll offer my advice on nut replacement. Nuts almost always need to be shortened (not allways, but for the most part replacement nuts are taller than what you need), so you need to sand it. The trouble is ensuring you dont bevel the base of the nut, so you want to sand on a flat surface. Check often that the base is flat and perpendicular to the face side. I use super glue, nothing special. just a little dab on the base and thats it. You'll want to invest in a nut filing toolset. Generally if you buy a preslotted nut you may not have to do anything, but ideally you want your nut slots to conform to the fretboard radius and thus you may need a file set. There are the professional ones on StewMac, but the price will make your head spin. You can get by with a cheap micro file set off Amazon, so long as you keep in mind that cheap tools are cheap tools. Any filing you do, do it slowly. You can always take more material off but you can never put it back on. So changing a nut is not the easiest thing to do, but its a job you can absolutely do yourself.
Hi Draconomics,
do you have any tips or techniques how to sand the nut? I never done this before so I afraid I will ruin the nut. Also, do all the nut slot have to be filed before installing the string? how to check if the filed slot is conformed to the fretboard radius?
 
Hi Draconomics,
do you have any tips or techniques how to sand the nut? I never done this before so I afraid I will ruin the nut. Also, do all the nut slot have to be filed before installing the string? how to check if the filed slot is conformed to the fretboard radius?

Hi Yosua! So when I sand the nut I use a block of wood that I have already sanded level and flat, and attach a square of sandpaper on the top. Then just run the nut back and forth over it. If you go slowly you'll be fine, just keep checking to ensure the nut base is flat. It'll take some time, it took me an hour yesterday to remove about 1.5mm off my new nut. Once I get enough material off, I run the nut over a bastard file to smooth out the cut and fully flatten the base.

Now, do the nut slots need to be filed before putting strings on? Not necessarily. If its a preslotted nut, the only reasons to file the slots is to A: Match fretboard radius and B: To widen the slots to accommodate larger gauge strings. To match fretboard radius, you can buy a radius tool that has a profile of different fretboard radii. I just trace the radii arc onto my nut and just file to match. Something to remember, the difference between the arc length of a typical guitar fretboard radius versus what it would be if flat is very small, but enough to influence how the neck feels quite a bit so you do want to pay some attention to matching fretboard arc. As to string gauges, ideally you want the string to sit in its slot nicely, so a big string in a slot too small may pop out of its slot. Usually nut files are made to match specific string gauges so you dont have to guess, but this also means the nut will be made for a specific string size and may be less effective with other gauges. Again, just go slow, get all the proper tools, check your work constantly and you'll be fine.
 
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